Accessories JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

JUMP STARTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - JUMP STARTING
WARNING: REVIEW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
AND WARNINGS IN GROUP 8A, BATTERY/START-
ING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS. DO NOT
JUMP START A FROZEN BATTERY, PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT. DO NOT JUMP START WHEN
MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY INDICATOR DOT IS
YELLOW OR BRIGHT COLOR. DO NOT JUMP
START A VEHICLE WHEN THE BATTERY FLUID IS
BELOW THE TOP OF LEAD PLATES. DO NOT
ALLOW JUMPER CABLE CLAMPS TO TOUCH
EACH OTHER WHEN CONNECTED TO A BOOSTER
SOURCE. DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME NEAR BAT-
TERY. REMOVE METALLIC JEWELRY WORN ON
HANDS OR WRISTS TO AVOID INJURY BY ACCI-
DENTAL ARCING OF BATTERY CURRENT. WHEN
USING A HIGH OUTPUT BOOSTING DEVICE, DO
NOT ALLOW BATTERY VOLTAGE TO EXCEED 16
VOLTS. REFER TO INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED
WITH DEVICE BEING USED.
CAUTION: When using another vehicle as a
booster, do not allow vehicles to touch. Electrical
systems can be damaged on either vehicle.
TO JUMP START A DISABLED VEHICLE:
(1) Raise hood on disabled vehicle and visually
inspect engine compartment for:
²Battery cable clamp condition, clean if necessary.
²Frozen battery.
²Yellow or bright color test indicator, if equipped.
²Low battery fluid level.
²Generator drive belt condition and tension.
²Fuel fumes or leakage, correct if necessary.
CAUTION: If the cause of starting problem on dis-
abled vehicle is severe, damage to booster vehicle
charging system can result.
(2) When using another vehicle as a booster
source, park the booster vehicle within cable reach.
Turn off all accessories, set the parking brake, place
the automatic transmission in PARK or the manual
transmission in NEUTRAL and turn the ignition
OFF.
(3) On disabled vehicle, place gear selector in park
or neutral and set park brake. Turn off all accesso-
ries.
(4) Connect jumper cables to booster battery. RED
clamp to positive terminal (+). BLACK clamp to neg-
ative terminal (-). DO NOT allow clamps at opposite
end of cables to touch, electrical arc will result.
Review all warnings in this procedure.
(5) On disabled vehicle, connect RED jumper cable
clamp to positive (+) terminal. Connect BLACK
jumper cable clamp to engine ground as close to the
ground cable attaching point as possible (Fig. 8).
(6) Start the engine in the vehicle which has the
booster battery, let the engine idle a few minutes,
then start the engine in the vehicle with the dis-
charged battery.
CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled
vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will over-
heat and could fail.
(7) Allow battery in disabled vehicle to charge to
at least 12.4 volts (75% charge) before attempting to
start engine. If engine does not start within 15 sec-
onds, stop cranking engine and allow starter to cool
(15 min.), before cranking again.
Fig. 7 Correct Vehicle Lifting Locations
WJLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 7
LIFT POINTS (Continued)

BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front±end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
WJFRONT AXLE - 186FBI 3 - 17
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
3 - 52 REAR AXLE - 198RBIWJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

and therefore creates pressure in the pump. The tun-
ing of the front and rear axle orifices and valves
inside the gerotor pump is unique and each system
includes a torque-limiting pressure relief valve to
protect the clutch pack, which also facilitates vehicle
control under extreme side-to-side traction varia-
tions. The resulting pressure is applied to the clutch
pack and the transfer of torque is completed.
Under conditions in which opposite wheels are on
surfaces with widely different friction characteristics,
Vari-loktdelivers far more torque to the wheel on
the higher traction surface than do conventional
Trac-loktsystems. Because conventional Trac-lokt
differentials are initially pre-loaded to assure torque
transfer, normal driving (where inner and outer
wheel speeds differ during cornering, etc.) produces
torque transfer during even slight side-to-side speed
variations. Since these devices rely on friction from
this preload to transfer torque, normal use tends to
cause wear that reduces the ability of the differential
to transfer torque over time. By design, the Vari-lokt
system is less subject to wear, remaining more con-
sistent over time in its ability to transfer torque. The
coupling assembly is serviced as a unit. From a ser-
vice standpoint the coupling also benefits from using
the same lubricant supply as the ring and pinion
gears.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3 - 92 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)

(7) Reach under the passenger side of the instru-
ment panel near the right cowl side inner panel to
reconnect the antenna coaxial cable connector halves.
(8) Install the trim panel onto the right inner cowl
side. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/COWL TRIM -
INSTALLATION) for the procedures.
(9) Install the scuff plate onto the right front door
sill. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/DOOR SILL
SCUFF PLATE - INSTALLATION) for the proce-
dures.
(10) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
QUARTER GLASS INTEGRAL
ANTENNA - EXPORT
DESCRIPTION
The integral radio antenna element is bonded to
the right rear quarter glass and is replaced with the
glass assembly only.
OPERATION
The integral antenna receives RF (Radio Frequen-
cies) and sends them to the antenna module for
amplification.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - QUARTER GLASS
INTEGRAL ANTENNA - EXPORT
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the Appro-
priate Wiring Information. To detect breaks in the
integral antenna elements, the following procedure is
required:
(1) Disconnect the antenna module connector from
the antenna.
(2) Using a Ohmmeter, place both leads onto the
connector pins on the integral antenna. If continuity
is present antenna grid is Okay. If continuity is not
present move one lead through the grid in progres-
sion until continuity is detected. A break in the
antenna grid can be repaired using a Mopar Rear
Window Defogger Repair Kit (Part Number 4267922)
or equivalent. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WINDOW
DEFOGGER/REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER GRID -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
RADIO
DESCRIPTION
Available factory-installed radio receivers for this
model include an AM/FM/cassette with CD changer
control feature (RBB sales code), an AM/FM/CD/2-
band graphic equalizer with CD changer control fea-
ture (RBK sales code), or an AM/FM/CD/cassette/2-
band graphic equalizer (RBP sales code). All factory-
installed radio receivers can communicate on theProgrammable Communications Interface (PCI) data
bus network through a separate wire harness connec-
tor. All factory-installed receivers are stereo Electron-
ically Tuned Radios (ETR) and include an electronic
digital clock function.
These radio receivers can only be serviced by an
authorized radio repair station. See the latest War-
ranty Policies and Procedures manual for a current
listing of authorized radio repair stations.
All vehicles are equipped with an Ignition-Off
Draw (IOD) fuse that is removed when the vehicle is
shipped from the factory. This fuse feeds various
accessories that require battery current when the
ignition switch is in the Off position, including the
clock. The IOD fuse is removed to prevent battery
discharge during vehicle storage.
When removing or installing the IOD fuse, it is
important that the ignition switch be in the Off posi-
tion. Failure to place the ignition switch in the Off
position can cause the radio display to become scram-
bled when the IOD fuse is removed and replaced.
Removing and replacing the IOD fuse again, with the
ignition switch in the Off position, will correct the
scrambled display condition.
The IOD fuse should be checked if the radio or
clock displays are inoperative. The IOD fuse is
located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).
Refer to the fuse layout label on the underside of the
PDC cover for IOD fuse identification and location.
OPERATION
The radio receiver operates on ignition switched
battery current that is available only when the igni-
tion switch is in the On or Accessory positions. The
electronic digital clock function of the radio operates
on fused battery current supplied through the IOD
fuse, regardless of the ignition switch position.
For more information on the features, setting pro-
cedures, and control functions for each of the avail-
able factory-installed radio receivers, refer to the
owner's manual. For complete circuit diagrams, refer
to the appropriate wiring information. The wiring
information includes wiring diagrams, proper wire
and connector repair procedures, details of wire har-
ness routing and retention, connector pin-out infor-
mation and location views for the various wire
harness connectors, splices and grounds.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIO
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should
begin with the use of the DRB IIItdiagnostic
tool. For information on the use of the DRB
IIIt, refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Service
Manual.
If the vehicle is equipped with the optional remote
radio switches located on the steering wheel and the
8A - 16 AUDIOWJ
INSTRUMENT PANEL ANTENNA CABLE (Continued)

(1) Turn the ignition switch to the On position
(transmission in Park/Neutral).
(2) Use the DRBIIItand select THEFT ALARM,
SKIM, then MISCELLANEOUS.
(3) Select PCM REPLACED (GAS ENGINE).
(4) Enter secured access mode by entering the
vehicle four-digit PIN.
(5) Select ENTER to update PCM VIN.
NOTE: If three attempts are made to enter secure
access mode using an incorrect PIN, secured
access mode will be locked out for one hour. To
exit this lockout mode, turn the ignition switch to
the ON position for one hour, then enter the correct
PIN. (Ensure all accessories are turned off. Also
monitor the battery state and connect a battery
charger if necessary).
(6) Press ENTER to transfer the secret key (the
SKIM will send the secret key to the PCM).
(7) Press Page Back to get to the Select System
menu and select ENGINE, MISCELLANEOUS, and
SRI MEMORY CHECK.
(8) The DRBIIItwill ask, ªIs odometer reading
between XX and XX?º Select the YES or NO button
on the DRBIIIt. If NO is selected, the DRBIIItwill
read, ªEnter Odometer Reading (From I.P. odome-
ter)º. Enter the odometer reading from the instru-
ment cluster and press ENTER.
PROGRAMMING THE SKIM
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the On position
(transmission in Park/Neutral).
(2) Use the DRBIIItand select THEFT ALARM,
SKIM, then MISCELLANEOUS.
(3) Select PCM REPLACED (GAS ENGINE).
(4) Program the vehicle four-digit PIN into SKIM.
(5) Select COUNTRY CODE and enter the correct
country.
NOTE: Be sure to enter the correct country code. If
the incorrect country code is programmed into
SKIM, it cannot be changed and the SKIM must be
replaced.
(6) Select YES to update VIN (the SKIM will learn
the VIN from the PCM).
(7) Press ENTER to transfer the secret key (the
PCM will send the secret key to the SKIM).
(8) Program ignition keys to the SKIM.
NOTE: If the PCM and the SKIM are replaced at the
same time, all vehicle ignition keys will need to be
replaced and programmed to the new SKIM.
PROGRAMMING IGNITION KEYS TO THE SKIM
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the On position
(transmission in Park/Neutral).
(2) Use the DRBIIItand select THEFT ALARM,
SKIM, then MISCELLANEOUS.
(3) Select PROGRAM IGNITION KEY'S.
(4) Enter secured access mode by entering the
vehicle four-digit PIN.
NOTE: A maximum of eight keys can be learned to
each SKIM. Once a key is learned to a SKIM it (the
key) cannot be transferred to another vehicle.
(5) Obtain ignition keys to be programmed from
the customer (8 keys maximum).
(6) Using the DRBIIIt, erase all ignition keys by
selecting MISCELLANEOUS, and ERASE ALL CUR-
RENT IGN. KEYS.
(7) Program all of the ignition keys.
If ignition key programming is unsuccessful, the
DRBIIItwill display one of the following messages:
²Programming Not Attempted- The DRBIIIt
attempts to read the programmed key status and
there are no keys programmed into SKIM memory.
²Programming Key Failed (Possible Used
Key From Wrong Vehicle)- SKIM is unable to pro-
gram an ignition key transponder due to one of the
following:
²The ignition key transponder is faulty.
²The ignition key transponder is or has been
already programmed to another vehicle.
²8 Keys Already Learned, Programming Not
Done- The SKIM transponder ID memory is full.
²Learned Key In Ignition- The ID for the igni-
tion key transponder currently in the ignition lock
cylinder is already programmed in SKIM memory.
ADJUSTABLE PEDALS
MODULE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL - REMOV-
AL).
(3) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/STEER-
ING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the adjustable pedal motor for accessi-
bility. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/PEDAL - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the two mounting clips from the mod-
ule (Fig. 1).
(6) Disconnect the electrical connector.
(7) Remove the adjustable pedal module.
8E - 2 ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULESWJ
ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - IGNITION-OFF
DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a nor-
mal condition where power is being drained from the
battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A
normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five
to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere)
with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all
non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working
order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to
enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned
radio, and other modules which may vary with the
vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approxi-
mately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an
inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for
twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse
from the Power Distribution Center (PDC). This will
reduce battery discharging.Excessive IOD can be caused by:
²Electrical items left on.
²Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
²Faulty or shorted electronic modules and compo-
nents.
²An internally shorted generator.
²Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the
problem must be found and corrected before replac-
ing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be
charged and returned to service after the excessive
IOD condition has been corrected.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off.
Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close
all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illumi-
nated entry system or an electronically tuned radio,
allow the electronic timer function of these systems
to automatically shut off (time out). This may take
up to three minutes. See the Electronic Module Igni-
tion-Off Draw Table for more information.
ELECTRONIC MODULE IGNITION-OFF DRAW (IOD) TABLE
ModuleTime Out?
(If Yes, Interval And Wake-Up Input)IODIOD After Time
Out
Radio No1to3
milliamperesN/A
Audio Power
AmplifierNoup to 1
milliampereN/A
Body Control Module
(BCM)No5.90
milliamperes
(max.)N/A
Powertrain Control
Module (PCM)No 0.95 milliampere N/A
Transmission Control
Module (TCM) 4.7L
w/45RFEYES (20 minutes, ignition on) 130 milliamperes 0.64 milliampere
ElectroMechanical
Instrument Cluster
(EMIC)No 0.44 milliampere N/A
Combination Flasher No 0.08 milliampere N/A
(2) Determine that the underhood lamp is operat-
ing properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness
connector or remove the lamp bulb.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(4) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its
highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter
between the disconnected battery negative cable ter-
minal clamp and the battery negative terminal post.
Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the
illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-
meter amperage reading may remain high for up tothree minutes, or may not give any reading at all
while set in the highest amperage scale, depending
upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The
multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the
battery negative cable terminal clamp and the bat-
tery negative terminal post. If continuity between the
battery negative terminal post and the negative cable
terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD
test, the electronic timer function will be activated
and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
WJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 13
BATTERY (Continued)

(5) After about three minutes, the high-amperage
IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very
low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical
equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading
remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit
breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and
then in the Junction Block (JB), one at a time until
the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexist-
ent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information in
this service manual for complete PDC and JB fuse,
circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will
isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the
source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage
reading remains high after removing and replacing
each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire
harness from the generator. If the amperage reading
now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charg-
ing System for the proper charging system diagnosis
and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD
has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to pro-
gressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary,
repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-re-
place process to identify and correct all sources of
excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest mil-
liampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-
amperage IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any
electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere
scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(6) Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-am-
perage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliam-
peres (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds
thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the
fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process
in Step 5. The multi-meter reading will drop to
within the acceptable limit when the source of the
excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this
circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect
switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CHECKING BATTERY
ELECTROLYTE LEVEL
The following procedure can be used to check the
battery electrolyte level.
(1) Remove the battery cell caps (Fig. 10).
(2) Look through the battery cap holes to deter-
mine the level of the electrolyte in the battery (Fig.
11). The electrolyte should be approximately 1 centi-
meter above the battery plates or until the hook
inside the battery cap holes is covered.
(3) Add only distilled water until the electrolyte
level is approx. one centimeter above the plates.
Fig. 10 Battery Caps - Export Battery
1 - BATTERY CAP
2 - BATTERY
Fig. 11 Hook Inside Battery Cap Holes - Export
Battery
1 - BATTERY SURFACE COVER
2 - HOOK
8F - 14 BATTERY SYSTEMWJ
BATTERY (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Be
certain that all electrical accessories are turned off.
(2) Loosen the battery negative cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp from the battery negative terminal post. If
necessary, use a battery terminal puller to remove
the terminal clamp from the battery post (Fig. 12).
(4) Loosen the battery positive cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(5) Disconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp from the battery positive terminal post. If nec-
essary, use a battery terminal puller to remove the
terminal clamp from the battery post.
(6) Remove the battery hold down from the bat-
tery. Refer toBattery Hold Downin this section of
the service manual for the procedure.
WARNING: WEAR A SUITABLE PAIR OF RUBBER
GLOVES (NOT THE HOUSEHOLD TYPE) WHEN
REMOVING A BATTERY BY HAND. SAFETY
GLASSES SHOULD ALSO BE WORN. IF THE BAT-
TERY IS CRACKED OR LEAKING, THE ELECTRO-
LYTE CAN BURN THE SKIN AND EYES.
(7) Remove the battery from the battery tray.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the battery. Refer to the pro-
cedures in this section.
(2) Position the battery onto the battery tray as a
unit. Ensure that the battery positive and negative
terminal posts are correctly positioned. The battery
cable terminal clamps must reach the correct battery
terminal post without stretching the cables (Fig. 13)
or (Fig. 14).
(3) Reinstall the battery hold downs onto the bat-
tery. Refer toBattery Hold DownsCAUTION: Be certain that the battery cable terminal
clamps are connected to the correct battery termi-
nal posts. Reverse battery polarity may damage
electrical components of the vehicle.
(4) Clean the battery cable terminal clamps and
the battery terminal posts.
Fig. 12 Remove Battery Cable Terminal Clamp -
Typical
1 - BATTERY
2 - BATTERY TERMINAL PULLER
Fig. 13 Battery Cables - 4.0L Engine
1 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
2 - BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
3 - CLIPS
Fig. 14 Battery Cables - 4.7L Engine
1 - BATTERY POSITIVE CABLE
2 - BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE
3 - CLIPS
WJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 15
BATTERY (Continued)

(5) Reconnect the battery positive cable terminal
clamp to the battery positive terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 6.8 N´m (60
in. lbs.).
(6) Reconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp to the battery negative terminal post. Tighten
the terminal clamp pinch-bolt hex nut to 6.8 N´m (
60 in. lbs.).
(7) Apply a thin coating of petroleum jelly or chas-
sis grease to the exposed surfaces of the battery cable
terminal clamps and the battery terminal posts.
BATTERY HOLDDOWN
DESCRIPTION
The battery hold down hardware consists of (Fig.
15) a molded plastic lip that is integral to the out-
board edge of the battery tray and support unit, a
molded plastic hold down bracket, a single hex screw
with a coned washer and a U-nut.
When installing a battery into the battery tray, be
certain that the hold down hardware is properly
installed and that the fasteners are tightened to the
proper specifications. Improper hold down fastener
tightness, whether too loose or too tight, can result in
damage to the battery, the vehicle or both.
OPERATION
The battery holddown secures the battery in the
battery tray. This holddown is designed to prevent
battery movement during the most extreme vehicle
operation conditions. Periodic removal and lubrica-
tion of the battery holddown hardware is recom-
mended to prevent hardware seizure at a later date.
CAUTION: Never operate a vehicle without a battery
holddown device properly installed. Damage to the
vehicle, components and battery could result.
REMOVAL
All of the battery hold down hardware can be ser-
viced without removal of the battery or the battery
tray and support unit.
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Be
certain that all electrical accessories are turned off.
(2) Loosen the battery negative cable terminal
clamp pinch-bolt hex nut.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable terminal
clamp from the battery negative terminal post. If
necessary, use a battery terminal puller to remove
the terminal clamp from the battery post.
(4) Remove the screw with washer that secures the
battery hold down bracket to the U-nut on the
inboard side of the battery tray and support unit
(Fig. 16).
(5) Remove the battery hold down bracket from
the battery tray and support unit.
INSTALLATION
All of the battery hold down hardware can be ser-
viced without removal of the battery or the battery
tray and support unit.
(1) Clean and inspect the battery hold down hard-
ware. Refer to the procedures in this section of the
service manual.
(2) Be certain that the battery is properly posi-
tioned in the battery tray and support unit. The
ledge on the outboard side of the battery case must
be engaged under the lip on the outboard side of the
battery tray and support unit.
Fig. 15 Battery Hold Downs
1 - SCREW
2 - HOLD DOWN BRACKET
3 - BATTERY SUPPORT
4 - ACCUMULATOR
5 - NUT
6 - U-NUT
7 - STUD
8 - RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACKET
9 - U-NUT
10 - SCREW
11 - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
12 - BATTERY
8F - 16 BATTERY SYSTEMWJ
BATTERY (Continued)