transmission mount JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/4 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint, and undercoating
from the propeller shaft surface where the dial indi-
cator will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If the propeller shaft runout is out of specifica-
tion, remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É,
and re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft
runout again.
(6) If the propeller shaft runout is now within
specifications, mark the shaft and yokes for proper
orientation.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES
This procedure applies to both the front propeller
shafts and the rear propeller shaft. To obtain the
front (output) angle on the C/V front propeller shaft,
the inclinometer is placed on the machined ring of
the pinion flange. To obtain the propeller shaft angle
measurement on the C/V front propeller shaft, the
inclinometer is placed on the propeller shaft tube.
PROPELLER SHAFT ANGLE
(1) Raise and support the vehicle at the axles as
level as possible. Allow the wheels and propeller
shaft to turn.
(2) Remove any external bearing snap rings from
universal joint if equipped, so the inclinometer base
will sits flat.
Fig. 2 TWO CLAMP SCREWS
Fig. 3 CLAMP SCREWS SEPARATED
1 - ó INCH
WJPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front±end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear-end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
WJFRONT AXLE - 186FBI 3 - 17
FRONT AXLE - 186FBI (Continued)

peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
3 - 52 REAR AXLE - 198RBIWJ
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place transmission in neutral.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(5) Remove nuts holding axle retainer plate to axle
tube from the rear of the axle flange.
(6) Pull axle shaft from the axle with Slide Ham-
mer 7420 and Adapter 6790. Mount the adapter to
the axle with lug nuts.
NOTE: The axle bearing race is normally loose in
the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insall axle into the axle tube with the flat area
of the retainer plate upward.
(2) Insert retaining plate studs into the brake
backing plate and axle tube flange.
(3) Install retainer nuts and tighten nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake rotor and caliper.
(5) Install wheel and tire.
(6) Check and fill the differential with gear lubri-
cant.
(7) Lower vehicle.
AXLE BEARINGS/SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove axle shaft from vehicle.
NOTE: The axle bearing race is normally loose in
the axle tube.
(2) Drill a shallow hole into soft steel axle bearing
retaining ring with a 3/8 in. drill bit (Fig. 25). Use a
drill depth stop to avoid marking the axle.
(3) With a cold chisel cut the retaining ring across
drilled hole. (Fig. 26)
(4) Slide retaining ring from axle shaft.
Fig. 25 DRILL RETAINING RING
1 - DRILL BIT
2 - AXLE
3 - RETAINING PLATE
4 - RETAINING RING
Fig. 26 RETAINING RING
1 - AXLE
2 - COLD CHISEL
3 - VISE
4 - RETAINING RING
WJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 69

and therefore creates pressure in the pump. The tun-
ing of the front and rear axle orifices and valves
inside the gerotor pump is unique and each system
includes a torque-limiting pressure relief valve to
protect the clutch pack, which also facilitates vehicle
control under extreme side-to-side traction varia-
tions. The resulting pressure is applied to the clutch
pack and the transfer of torque is completed.
Under conditions in which opposite wheels are on
surfaces with widely different friction characteristics,
Vari-loktdelivers far more torque to the wheel on
the higher traction surface than do conventional
Trac-loktsystems. Because conventional Trac-lokt
differentials are initially pre-loaded to assure torque
transfer, normal driving (where inner and outer
wheel speeds differ during cornering, etc.) produces
torque transfer during even slight side-to-side speed
variations. Since these devices rely on friction from
this preload to transfer torque, normal use tends to
cause wear that reduces the ability of the differential
to transfer torque over time. By design, the Vari-lokt
system is less subject to wear, remaining more con-
sistent over time in its ability to transfer torque. The
coupling assembly is serviced as a unit. From a ser-
vice standpoint the coupling also benefits from using
the same lubricant supply as the ring and pinion
gears.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3 - 92 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)

DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
DIAGNOSTIC CHART
Condition Possible Causes Correction
Wheel Noise 1. Wheel loose. 1. Tighten loose nuts.
2. Faulty, brinelled wheel bearing. 2. Replace bearing.
Axle Shaft Noise 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Inspect axle tube alignment.
Correct as necessary.
2. Bent or sprung axle shaft. 2. Inspect and correct as necessary.
3. End-play in pinion bearings. 3. Refer to pinion pre-load
information and correct as
necessary.
4. Excessive gear backlash
between the ring gear and pinion.4. Check adjustment of the ring
gear and pinion backlash. Correct
as necessary.
5. Improper adjustment of pinion
gear bearings.5. Adjust the pinion bearings
pre-load.
6. Loose pinion yoke nut. 6. Tighten the pinion yoke nut.
7. Scuffed gear tooth contact
surfaces.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
Axle Shaft Broke 1. Misaligned axle tube. 1. Replace the broken shaft after
correcting tube mis-alignment.
2 Vehicle overloaded. 2. Replace broken shaft and avoid
excessive weight on vehicle.
3. Erratic clutch operation. 3. Replace broken shaft and avoid
or correct erratic clutch operation.
4. Grabbing clutch. 4. Replace broken shaft and inspect
and repair clutch as necessary.
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 93
REAR AXLE - 226RBA (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place transmission in neutral.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(5) Remove nuts holding axle retainer plate to axle
tube from the rear of the axle flange.
(6) Pull axle shaft from the axle with Slide Ham-
mer 7420 and Adapter 6790. Mount the adapter to
the axle with lug nuts.
NOTE: The axle bearing race is normally loose in
the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insall axle into the axle tube with the flat area
of the retainer plate upward.
(2) Insert retaining plate studs into the brake
backing plate and axle tube flange.
(3) Install retainer nuts and tighten nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake rotor and caliper.
(5) Install wheel and tire.
(6) Check and fill the differential with gear lubri-
cant.
(7) Lower vehicle.
AXLE BEARINGS/SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove axle shaft from vehicle.
NOTE: The axle bearing race is normally loose in
the axle tube.
(2) Drill a shallow hole into soft steel axle bearing
retaining ring with a 3/8 in. drill bit (Fig. 25). Use a
drill depth stop to avoid marking the axle.
(3) With a cold chisel cut the retaining ring across
drilled hole. (Fig. 26)
(4) Slide retaining ring from axle shaft.
Fig. 25 DRILL RETAINING RING
1 - DRILL BIT
2 - AXLE
3 - RETAINING PLATE
4 - RETAINING RING
Fig. 26 RETAINING RING
1 - AXLE
2 - COLD CHISEL
3 - VISE
4 - RETAINING RING
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 109

Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

(6) Start the engine and operate at 2400 rpm.
Within ten minutes the air temperature (indicated on
the dial thermometer) should be up to 93É C (200É F).
Fan driveengagementshould have started to occur
at between 91É to 96É C (195É to 205É F). Engage-
ment is distinguishable by a definiteincreasein fan
flow noise (roaring). The timing light also will indi-
cate an increase in the speed of the fan.
(7) When the air temperature reaches 93É C (200É
F), remove the plastic sheet. Fan drivedisengage-
mentshould have started to occur at between 62É to
85É C (145É to 185É F). A definitedecreaseof fan
flow noise (roaring) should be noticed. If not, replace
the defective viscous fan drive unit.
PWM FAN CONTROL MODULE -
4.0L
DESCRIPTION
The pulse width modulated (PWM) radiator cooling
fan relay is located behind the front bumper fascia
below the right headlamp.
OPERATION
The PWM relay is used to control the speed of the
electric radiator cooling fan. It allows for multiple fan
speeds. This allows for improved fan noise and A/C
performance, better engine cooling, and additional
vehicle power.
PWM relay operation is controlled by the Power-
train Control Module (PCM). To operate the PWM
relay, the PCM looks at inputs from:
²Engine coolant temperature
²Ambient temperature from the body controller
²Vehicle speed
²Transmission oil temperature
²A/C switch position (A/C request)
REMOVAL
The Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) cooling fan
relay is located below the right headlamp behind the
bumper fascia (Fig. 28).
(1) Remove front bumper and grill assembly.
(2) Remove 1 support bolt near front of reservoir
(Fig. 28).
(3) Remove 2 reservoir mounting bolts.
(4) Remove reservoir from vehicle to gain access to
vacuum hose (Fig. 29). Disconnect vacuum hose from
reservoir fitting at rear of reservoir.
(5) Disconnect electrical connector at relay (Fig.
30).
(6) Remove 2 relay mounting bolts (Fig. 30) and
remove relay.
Fig. 28 Radiator Cooling Fan Relay Location
1 - RADIATOR FAN RELAY
2 - VACUUM RESERVOIR
3 - BOLT
4 - RIGHT FRONT FENDER
Fig. 29 Vacuum Reservoir Removal/Installation
1 - VACUUM HOSE
2 - RADIATOR
3 - VACUUM RESERVOIR
WJENGINE 7 - 41
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - 4.0L (Continued)

(4) Remove two radiator mounting bolts.
(5) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(6) Disconnect electrical connector for the fan con-
trol solenoid.
(7) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler and filter.
(8) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(9) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(10) Remove the air inlet duct at the grill.(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 35). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary to
remove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Disconnect the two high pressure fluid lines
at the hydraulic fan drive.
(13) Disconnect the low pressure return hose at
the hydraulic fan drive.
(14) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
Fig. 32 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 33 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 34 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
WJENGINE 7 - 43
RADIATOR - 4.7L (Continued)