Front light JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G User Guide

(4) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped.(5) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install seal with Installer
C-4076-B and Handle C-4735 (Fig. 56).
(6) Place proper thickness depth shim on the pin-
ion.
(7) Install rear bearing and slinger if equipped, on
the pinion shaft (Fig. 57) with Installer 6448 and a
press.
(8) Install anewcollapsible preload spacer on pin-
ion shaft and install pinion in housing (Fig. 58).
(9) Install pinion in housing.
(10) Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke
Holder 6719A.
Fig. 53 Rear Pinion Bearing Puller
1 - PULLER
2 - VISE
3 - ADAPTERS
4 - PINION GEAR SHAFT
Fig. 54 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 55 Front Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 56 Pinion Seal
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
3 - INSTALLER
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 113
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.
ADJUSTMENT WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 13).(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Push and hold adjuster lever away from star
wheel with thin screwdriver.
(8) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.
(9) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(10) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(11) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(12) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION
The calipers are a single piston type. The calipers
are free to slide laterally, this allows continuous com-
pensation for lining wear.
Fig. 11 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON DRUM
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE DRUM
Fig. 12 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON BRAKE SHOES
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 13 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 13
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

OPERATION
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper piston. The fluid pressure
is exerted equally and in all directions. This means
pressure exerted against the caliper piston and
within the caliper bore will be equal (Fig. 14).
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bore forces the caliper to slide inward on
the mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake shoe lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake shoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from gettingbetween the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
15). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount
is just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake shoe.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt if replacing
caliper (Fig. 16).
(6) Remove the caliper mounting slide pin bolts
(Fig. 16).
(7) Remove the caliper from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brake shoes from caliper.
(2) Drain brake fluid out of caliper.
(3) Take a piece of wood and pad it with one-inch
thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in the out-
board shoe side of the caliper in front of the piston.
This will cushion and protect caliper piston during
removal (Fig. 17).
Fig. 14 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
Fig. 15 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(4) Install the brake hose to the caliper withnew
seal washersand tighten fitting bolt to 31 N´m (23
ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Bleed the base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(9) Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ADAPTER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain a small amount of fluid from master cyl-
inder brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
(4) Bottom the caliper pistons into the caliper by
prying the caliper over.
(5) Remove the caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 16).
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the mount.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(7) Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts
(Fig. 16).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the caliper adapter mounting bolts.
Tighten the mounting bolts to 135 N´m (100 ft.lbs).
(2) Install the inboard and outboard pads. (Refer
to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the caliper mounting bolts.
(4) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR
The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished
unless necessary.
Light surface rust and scale can be removed with a
lathe equipped with dual sanding discs. The rotor
surfaces can be restored by machining in a disc brake
lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
Replace the rotor under the following conditions:
²severely scored
²tapered
²hard spots
²cracked
²below minimum thickness
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if machining would reduce
thickness below the allowable minimum.
Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on
the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or
cast into the hub surface.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout with dial indicator
C-3339 (Fig. 28). Excessive lateral runout will cause
brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the
brake shoes. Position the dial indicator plunger
approximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) inward from the rotor
edge. The dial indicator should be positioned in the
center of the rotor surface. Maximum allowable rotor
runout is 0.102 mm (0.004 in.).
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 29).
Position the micrometer approximately 25.4 mm (1
in.) from the rotor outer circumference for each mea-
surement.
Thickness should notvaryby more than 0.013 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point-to-point on the rotor. Machine
or replace the rotor if necessary.
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The junction block and a rear brake proportioning
valve. The valve is not repairable and must be
replaced as an assembly if diagnosis indicates this is
necessary.
OPERATION
PROPORTIONING VALVE
The proportioning valve is used to balance front-
rear brake action at high decelerations. The valve
allows normal fluid flow during moderate braking.
The valve only controls fluid flow during high decel-
erations brake stops. If the primary brake hydraulic
circuit cannot build pressure a by-pass feature is
activated allowing full flow and pressure to the rear
brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPORTIONING
VALVE
The valve controls fluid flow. If fluid enters the
valve and does not exit the valve the combination
valve must be replaced.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the junction
block.
(3) Remove mounting nuts and bolt and remove
the junction block (Fig. 31).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the junction block on the mounting
studs.
(2) Install mounting nuts and bolt. Tighten to 14
N´m (125 in. lbs.).
(3) Install brake lines to the junction block and
tighten to 20 N´m (180 in. lbs.).
(4) Bleed ABS brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
A suspended-type brake pedal is used, the pedal
pivots on a shaft mounted in the steering coloumn
support bracket. The bracket is attached to the dash
panel. The unit is serviced as an assembly, except for
the pedal pad.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which move the booster
secondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the knee blocker under the steering
column,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
KNEE BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the retainer clip securing the booster
push rod to pedal (Fig. 32).
(3) Remove the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(5) Remove the pedal from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the pedal into the vehicle.
(2) Install the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(3) Tighten the nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(4) Lubricate the brake pedal pin and bushings
with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(5) Install the booster push rod on the pedal pin
and install a new retainer clip (Fig. 32).
(6) Install the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
Fig. 31 JUNCTION BLOCK
1 - JUNCTION BLOCK
2 - MOUNTING NUT
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEKJ

(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 22.6 N´m
(200 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(7) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(8) Align and install master cylinder on the
booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to
22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(10) Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting
nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect and secure the brake lines to HCU or
junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake
line fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
(12) Connect the wire to fluid level switch at the
bottom of the reservoir.
(13) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder has a removable nylon reser-
voir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and
contains a primary and secondary piston assembly.
The cylinder body including the piston assemblies
are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an internal
problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced
as an assembly. The reservoir and grommets are the
only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 38).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 39).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

INSPECTION
Inspect the cylinder bore. Light discoloration and
dark stains in the bore are normal and will not
impair cylinder operation.
The cylinder bore can be lightly polished but only
with crocus cloth. Replace the cylinder if the bore is
scored, pitted or heavily corroded. Honing the bore to
restore the surface is not recommended.
Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces
should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and
corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or cor-
roded. Do not attempt to restore the surface by sand-
ing or polishing.Discard the old piston cups and the spring and
expander. These parts are not reusable. The original
dust boots may be reused but only if they are in good
condition.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston
cups and spring and expander with clean brake fluid.
(2) Install first piston in cylinder bore. Then
install first cup in bore and against piston.Be sure
lip of piston cup is facing inward (toward
spring and expander) and flat side is against
piston.
(3) Install spring and expander followed by
remaining piston cup and piston.
(4) Install boots on each end of cylinder and insert
push rods in boots.
(5) Install cylinder bleed screw.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install cylinder mounting bolts and tighten to
20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 44).
(2) Connect brake line to cylinder and tighten to
14 N´m (124 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the brake shoe return springs.
(4) Remove the brake pedal prop rod.
(5) Install the brake drum.
(6) Install the wheel and tire assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(7) Bleed base brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
The parking brake is a hand lever and cable oper-
ated system used to apply the rear brakes.
OPERATION
A hand operated lever in the passenger compart-
ment is the main application device. The front cable
is connected between the hand lever and the rear
cables with an equalizer.
The rear cables are connected to the actuating
lever on each primary brake shoe. The levers are
attached to the brake shoes by a pin either pressed
into, or welded to the lever. A clip is used to secure
the pin in the brake shoe. The pin allows each lever
to pivot independently of the brake shoe.
To apply the parking brakes, the hand lever is
pulled upward. This pulls the rear brake shoe actu-
ating levers forward, by means tensioner and cables.
As the actuating lever is pulled forward, the parking
brake strut (which is connected to both shoes), exerts
Fig. 44 WHEEL CYLINDER
1 - WHEEL CYLINDER
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
Fig. 45 Wheel Cylinder Components±Typical
1 - SPRING
2 - CYLINDER
3 - PISTON CLIP
4 - BOOT
5 - PUSH ROD
6 - PISTON
7 - BLEED SCREW
8 - CUP EXPANDERS
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
WHEEL CYLINDERS (Continued)

a linear force against the secondary brake shoe. This
action presses the secondary shoe into contact with
the drum. Once the secondary shoe contacts the
drum, force is exerted through the strut. This force is
transferred through the strut to the primary brake
shoe causing it to pivot into the drum as well.
A gear type ratcheting mechanism is used to hold
the lever in an applied position. Parking brake
release is accomplished by the hand lever release
button.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever. The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warn-
ing light whenever the parking brakes are applied.
Parking brake is self-adjusting when the lever is
pulled. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at the fac-
tory, should not need further adjustment under nor-
mal circumstances.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - LOCK OUT
NOTE: The parking brake is self-adjusting, It can
not be adjusted.
(1) Remove the center floor console (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL).
(2) Pull up on the spring until the tab on the lever
passes the tab on the cable guide and install a punch
in the hole on the side then release (Fig. 46).(3) The park brake system is now locked out to
perform necessary repairs.
CABLES
REMOVAL
(1) Lock out the parking brake cables (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE - ADJUSTMENTS) (Fig.
46).
(2) Remove the rear seat (Refer to 23 - BODY/
SEATS/SEAT - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the cable saddle bracket (Fig. 47).
(4) Disconnect the two cables from the front mount
(Fig. 48).
(5) Pull the carpet forward far enough in the rear
to gain access to the two parking brake cables thru
the floor (Fig. 47).
(6) Push the cables thru the floor with the grom-
mets.
(7) Remove the primary brake shoe hold down
spring and separate the shoes to gain access, Then
disconnect the cable from lever on brake shoe.
(8) Remove cables from backing plates by using a
screw driver to break off the tangs on the cable or a
proper sized box end wrench over the tangs.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the cables into the support plate.
(2) Reconnect the cable to the lever on the brake
shoe, Install the primary brake shoe hold down
spring and the shoes.
Fig. 46 LOCK OUT CABLES
1 - PARKING BRAKE HANDLE
2 - PUNCH
3 - CABLE GUIDE
4 - CABLE
Fig. 47 MOUNTING BRACKETS
1 - MOUNTING SADDLE BRACKET
2 - PARK BRAKE CABLES
3 - CARPET
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASEKJ
PARKING BRAKE (Continued)