brake light JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

FASTENER USAGE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: USE OF AN INCORRECT FASTENER
MAY RESULT IN COMPONENT DAMAGE OR PER-
SONAL INJURY.
Figure art, specifications and torque references in
this Service Manual are identified in metric and SAE
format.
During any maintenance or repair procedures, it is
important to salvage all fasteners (nuts, bolts, etc.)
for reassembly. If the fastener is not salvageable, a
fastener of equivalent specification must be used.
DESCRIPTION
Most stripped threaded holes can be repaired using
a Helicoilt. Follow the vehicle or Helicoiltrecommen-
dations for application and repair procedures.
THREADED HOLE REPAIR
DESCRIPTION
Most stripped threaded holes can be repaired using
a Helicoilt. Follow the vehicle or Helicoiltrecommen-
dations for application and repair procedures.
INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
DESCRIPTION
The graphic symbols illustrated in the following
International Control and Display Symbols Chart
(Fig. 3) are used to identify various instrument con-
trols. The symbols correspond to the controls and dis-
plays that are located on the instrument panel.
Fig. 3 INTERNATIONAL CONTROL AND DISPLAY SYMBOLS
1 High Beam 13 Rear Window Washer
2 Fog Lamps 14 Fuel
3 Headlamp, Parking Lamps, Panel Lamps 15 Engine Coolant Temperature
4 Turn Warning 16 Battery Charging Condition
5 Hazard Warning 17 Engine Oil
6 Windshield Washer 18 Seat Belt
7 Windshield Wiper 19 Brake Failure
8 Windshield Wiper and Washer 20 Parking Brake
9 Windscreen Demisting and Defrosting 21 Front Hood
10 Ventilating Fan 22 Rear hood (Decklid)
11 Rear Window Defogger 23 Horn
12 Rear Window Wiper 24 Lighter
4 INTRODUCTIONKJ

INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coat of lubricant on the lip of the
shaft seal.
(2) Installnewshaft seal with Installer 8806 and
Handle C-4171 (Fig. 28).
(3) Install right axle shaft if removed.
(4) Install half shaft.
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove half shaft.
(2) Remove axle shaft for right side seal removal.
(3) Remove shaft seal with Remover 7794-A and a
slide hammer.
(4) Remove shaft bearing with Remover 7794-A
and a slide hammer (Fig. 29).
INSTALLATION
(1) Installnewshaft bearing with Installer 8805
and Handle C-4171.
(2) Apply a light coat of lubricant on the lip of the
shaft seal.
(3) Installnewshaft seal with an appropriate
installer.
(4) Install right axle shaft if removed.
(5) Install half shaft.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove brake calipers and rotors, refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange for installation reference.
(5) Remove propeller shaft from the pinion com-
panion flange.
(6) Rotate pinion gear a minimum of ten times and
verify the pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Record the torque to rotate the pinion gear
(Fig. 30) with a inch pound torque wrench.
Fig. 28 SEAL INSTALLER
1 - SEAL BORE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 29 SHAFT BEARING REMOVER
1 - SHAFT BEARING
2 - REMOVER
Fig. 30 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION COMPANION FLANGE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
3 - 38 FRONT AXLE - 186FIAKJ
AXLE SHAFT SEALS (Continued)

PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove rear brake rotors drums.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove the propeller shaft from the yoke.
(6) Rotate pinion gear three or four times and ver-
ify that pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Measure and record torque to rotate the pinion
gear with an inch pound dial-type torque wrench.
(8) With a short piece of pipe and Spanner Wrench
6958 remove the pinion nut and washer (Fig. 31).
(9) Remove pinion companion flange with Remover
C-452 and Flange Wrench C-3281. (Fig. 32)
(10) Remove pinion seal with Remover 7794-A and
a slide hammer (Fig. 33).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with an appropriate
seal installer (Fig. 34).
(2) Install yoke on the pinion gear with Installer
C-3718 and Spanner Wrench 6958 (Fig. 35).(3) Install anewnut on the pinion gear.Tighten
the nut only enough to remove the shaft end
play.
CAUTION: Do not exceed the minimum torque 271
N´m (200 ft. lbs.) when installing the pinion yoke
retaining nut at this point. Damage to collapsible
spacer or bearings may result.
(4) Rotate the pinion a minimum of ten times and
verify pinion rotates smoothly.
(5) Measure and recore pinion torque to rotate
with an inch pound torque wrench. Torque to rotate
should be equal to the reading recorded during
removal, plus 0.56 N´m (5 in. lbs.) (Fig. 36).
Fig. 31 YOKE SPANNER WRENCH
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - WRENCH
3 - PIPE
Fig. 32 PINION YOKE REMOVER
1 - WRENCH
2 - YOKE
3 - REMOVER
Fig. 33 PINION SEAL REMOVER
1 - REMOVER
2 - SLIDE HAMMER
3 - PINION SEAL
3 - 68 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ

(8) Fill differential with gear lubricant.
(9) Install the brake drums
(10) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove rear brake drums.
(4) Mark the propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove the propeller shaft from the yoke.
(6) Rotate the pinion gear three or four times.
(7) Measure and record torque to rotate the pinion
gear with an inch pound dial-type torque wrench.
(8) Hold pinion yoke with Spanner Wrench 6958
and remove pinion nut and washer.
(9) Remove the pinion yoke with Remover C-452
and Flange Wrench C-3281 (Fig. 38).
(10) Remove pinion shaft seal with a pry tool or a
slide hammer mounted screw.
(11) Remove front pinion bearing using a pair of
pick tools. Pull the bearing straight off the pinion
gear shaft. If the bearing becomes bound on the pin-
ion shaft, lightly tap the end of the pinion gear with
a rawhide/rubber hammer.
(12) Remove the collapsible spacer.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install anewcollapsible preload spacer on pin-
ion shaft.
(2) Install pinion front bearing.(3) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install anewseal with an
appropriate installer (Fig. 39).
(4) Install yoke with Screw 8112, Cup 8109 and
Spanner Wrench 6958 (Fig. 40).
(5) Install yoke washer andnewnut on the pinion
gear. Tighten the nut to 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease
pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never
exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque
or rotating torque is exceeded a new collapsible
spacer must be installed.
Fig. 38 PINION YOKE
1 - FLANGE WRENCH
2 - YOKE
3 - REMOVER
Fig. 39 PINION SEAL
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 40 PINION YOKE INSTALLER
1 - INSTALLER
2 - PINION YOKE
3 - WRENCH
3 - 70 REAR AXLE - 198RBIKJ
PINION SEAL (Continued)

(6) Using yoke with Spanner Wrench 6958 and a
torque wrench set at 474 N´m (350 ft. lbs.), (Fig. 41)
slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 N´m (5 ft. lbs.) incre-
ments until the rotating torque is achieved. Measure
the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing
the collapsible spacer (Fig. 42).
NOTE: If more than 474 N´m (350 ft. lbs.) torque is
required to crush the collapsible spacer, the spacer
is defective and must be replaced.
(7) Check rotating torque with an inch pound
torque wrench (Fig. 42). The rotating torque of the
pinion gear should be, the reading recorded during
removal plus an additional 0.56 N´m (5 in. lbs.).
(8) Install propeller shaft with reference marks
aligned.
(9) Install rear brake drums.
(10) Add gear lubricant, if necessary.
(11) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(12) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove differential cover and drain fluid.
(3) Clean the housing cavity with flushing oil, light
engine oil or lint free cloth.NOTE: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or gaso-
line for cleaning.
(4) Remove axle shafts.
(5)
Note the reference letters stamped on the bearing
caps and housing machined sealing surface (Fig. 43).
Fig. 41 YOKE SPANNER WRENCH
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - WRENCH
3 - PIPE
Fig. 42 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
Fig. 43 BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
KJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 71
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER (Continued)

lbs.) increments until proper rotating torque is
achieved.
NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be con-
stant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If
the rotating torque varies, it indicates a binding
condition.
(9) The seal replacement is unacceptable if the
final pinion nut torque is less than 285 N´m (210 ft.
lbs.).
(10) Install the propeller shaft with the installa-
tion reference marks aligned.
(11) Install the brake drums.
(12) Check the differential housing lubricant level.
(13) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.(5) Remove the axle shafts.
NOTE: Side play resulting from bearing races being
loose on case hubs requires replacement of the dif-
ferential case.
(6) Mark the differential housing and bearing caps
for installation reference (Fig. 28).
(7) Remove bearing threaded adjuster locks from
each bearing cap.
(8) Loosen bearing cap bolts, them loosen the
threaded adjusters with Wrench C-4164 (Fig. 29).
Fig. 27 Pinion Rotation Torque
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 28 Reference Mark
1 - REFERENCE MARKS
2 - REFERENCE MARKS
3 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
4 - BEARING CAP
Fig. 29 Threaded Adjuster
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - BACKING PLATE
3 - THREAD ADJUSTER WRENCH
3 - 104 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
PINION SEAL (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
Discard the brake springs and retainer components
if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the
springs if a brake drag condition had occurred. Over-
heating will distort and weaken the springs.
Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support
plate, replace the support plate if any of the pads are
worn or rusted through. Also replace the plate if it is
bent or distorted.
(1) Clean support plate with brake cleaner.
(2) If new drums are being installed, remove pro-
tective coating with carburetor cleaner followed by
final rinse with brake cleaner.
(3) Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat
of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(4) Apply Mopar multi-mileage grease to brake
shoe contact surfaces of support plate (Fig. 10).
(5) Lubricate the adjuster screw threads and pivot
with spray lube.
(6) Attach parking brake lever to secondary brake
shoe. Use new washer and U-clip to secure lever.
(7) Attach the parking brake cable to lever (if
removed).
(8) Install the brake shoes on support plate.
Secure shoes with new hold-down springs, pins and
retainers.
(9) Install the parking brake strut and spring.(10) Install the guide plate and adjuster cable on
anchor pin.
(11) Install the adjuster cable guide on the shoe.
(12) Install the primary and secondary return
springs.
(13) Lubricate and assemble adjuster screw.
(14) Install the adjuster screw, spring and lever
and connect to adjuster cable.
(15) Adjust the shoes to the drum (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(16) Install the brake drum.
(17) Install the wheel/tire assemblies and lower
vehicle (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Verify firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear drum brakes are equipped with a self-ad-
justing mechanism. Under normal circumstances, the
only time adjustment is required is when the shoes
are replaced, removed for access to other parts, or
when one or both drums are replaced.
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
ADJUSTMENT WITH BRAKE GAUGE
(1) Be sure parking brakes are fully released.
(2) Raise rear of vehicle and remove wheels and
brake drums.
(3) Verify that left and right automatic adjuster
levers and cables are properly connected.
(4) Insert brake gauge in drum. Expand gauge
until gauge inner legs contact drum braking surface.
Then lock gauge in position (Fig. 11).
(5) Reverse gauge and install it on brake shoes.
Position gauge legs at shoe centers as shown (Fig.
12). If gauge does not fit (too loose/too tight), adjust
shoes.
(6) Pull shoe adjuster lever away from adjuster
screw star wheel.
(7) Turn adjuster screw star wheel (by hand) to
expand or retract brake shoes. Continue adjustment
until gauge outside legs are light drag-fit or 30 thou-
sands of an inch clearence on the shoes.
(8) Install brake drums and wheels and lower
vehicle.
(9) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
Fig. 10 Shoe Contact Surfaces
1 - ANCHOR PIN
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
3 - SHOE CONTACT SURFACES
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.
ADJUSTMENT WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 13).(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Push and hold adjuster lever away from star
wheel with thin screwdriver.
(8) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.
(9) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(10) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(11) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(12) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
NOTE: Bring vehicle to complete standstill at each
stop. Incomplete, rolling stops will not activate
automatic adjusters.DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION
The calipers are a single piston type. The calipers
are free to slide laterally, this allows continuous com-
pensation for lining wear.
Fig. 11 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON DRUM
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE DRUM
Fig. 12 ADJUSTING GAUGE ON BRAKE SHOES
1 - BRAKE GAUGE
2 - BRAKE SHOES
Fig. 13 Brake Adjustment
1 - STAR WHEEL
2 - LEVER
3 - BRAKE SHOE WEB
4 - SCREWDRIVER
5 - ADJUSTING TOOL
6 - ADJUSTER SPRING
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 13
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)