overheating JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Manual

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FAN RUNS ALL THE TIME 1. Fan control sensors inoperative. 1. Check for DTC's. Verify sensor
readings.
2. Fan control solenoid stuck9on9. 2. Check fan operation speeds.
Refer to fan speed operation table.
3. Fan control solenoid harness
damaged.3. Check for DTC 1499. Repair as
required.
4. Transmission temperature too
high.4. Check for transmission over
temp. DTC.
5. Engine coolant temperature too
high.5. (a) Check coolant level. Correct
level as required.
(b) Thermostat stuck. Replace
thermostat.
(c) Water pump failed. Replace
water pump.
(d) Coolant flow restricted. Clean
radiator.
(e) Air flow over radiator
obstructed.Remove obstruction.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS (Fig. 4) OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine
cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the left/
lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
(2) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container. Open draincock
and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not
have to be removed from the tank unless the system
is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is
empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining
cooling system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder
block drain plug(s) (if removed).CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling sys-
tem can result in an overheating condition and
severe engine damage.
(2) .Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-
glycol antifreeze and low mineral content water.Fill
pressure bottle to service line.and install cap.
Fig. 4 Drain Plug - 3.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
KJCOOLING - 2.4L7s-11
COOLING - 2.4L (Continued)

Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 5). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 6). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C con-
denser for any reason, note the location of all radi-
ator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber
air seals (Fig. 7). These are used at the top, bottom
and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser. To
prevent overheating, these seals must be installed
to their original positions.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at bat-
tery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
Fig. 5 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 6 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 7 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
KJENGINE7s-23
RADIATOR (Continued)

(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 8). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary to
remove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 8 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7s - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
The cooling system cap is located on the coolant
pressure bottle. The cap construction includes; stain-
less steel swivel top, rubber seals and retainer, main
spring, and a spring loaded valve (Fig. 9).
OPERATION
The pressure cap allows the cooling system to oper-
ate at higher than atmospheric pressure which raises
the coolant boiling point, thus allowing increased
radiator cooling capacity. The pressure cap releases
pressure at some point within a range of 110 kPa  
14 kPa (16 psi   2 psi).
A spring-loaded vent valve in the center of the cap
allows the system to pressurize and depressurize
without creating a vacuum. If the valve is stuck
open, coolant will escape to the overflow hose. There
is also a gasket in the cap to seal to the top of the
filler neck.
CAUTION: Use only the pressure cap specified for
this vehicle. Use of other pressure caps can lead to
coolant loss and overheating.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP
Remove cap from radiator. Be sure that sealing
surfaces are clean. Moisten rubber gasket with water
and install the cap on pressure tester (tool 7700 or
an equivalent) (Fig. 10).Operate the tester pump and observe the gauge
pointer at its highest point. The cap release pressure
should be 124 to 145 kPa (18 to 21 psi). The cap is
satisfactory when the pressure holds steady. It is also
good if it holds pressure within the 124 to 145 kPa
(18 to 21 psi) range for 30 seconds or more. If the
pointer drops quickly, replace the cap.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks, which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Clean the radiator pressure cap using a mild soap
and water only.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the pressure valve gasket on the
cap. Replace cap if the gasket is swollen, torn or
worn. Inspect the area around radiator filler neck for
white deposits that indicate a leaking cap.
Fig. 9 PRESSURE CAP
1 - MAIN SPRING
2 - GASKET RETAINER
3 - STAINLESS STEEL SWIVEL TOP
4 - RUBBER SEALS
5 - SPRING LOADED VALVE
6 - COOLANT PRESSURE BOTTLE
7 - FILLER NECK
8 - OVERFLOW NIPPLEFig. 10 Pressure Testing Radiator Pressure Cap -
Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
KJENGINE7s-25

subjected to a high torque load, deposits partially liq-
uefy and bridge the gap between electrodes (Fig. 23).
This short circuits the electrodes. Spark plugs with
electrode gap bridging can be cleaned using standard
procedures.
SCAVENGER DEPOSITS
Fuel scavenger deposits may be either white or yel-
low (Fig. 24). They may appear to be harmful, but
this is a normal condition caused by chemical addi-
tives in certain fuels. These additives are designed to
change the chemical nature of deposits and decrease
spark plug misfire tendencies. Notice that accumula-
tion on the ground electrode and shell area may be
heavy, but the deposits are easily removed. Spark
plugs with scavenger deposits can be considered nor-
mal in condition and can be cleaned using standard
procedures.
CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR
A chipped electrode insulator usually results from
bending the center electrode while adjusting the
spark plug electrode gap. Under certain conditions,
severe detonation can also separate the insulator
from the center electrode (Fig. 25). Spark plugs with
this condition must be replaced.
PREIGNITION DAMAGE
Preignition damage is usually caused by excessive
combustion chamber temperature. The center elec-
trode dissolves first and the ground electrode dis-
solves somewhat latter (Fig. 26). Insulators appear
relatively deposit free. Determine if the spark plug
has the correct heat range rating for the engine.
Determine if ignition timing is over advanced or if
other operating conditions are causing engine over-heating. (The heat range rating refers to the operat-
ing temperature of a particular type spark plug.
Spark plugs are designed to operate within specific
temperature ranges. This depends upon the thick-
ness and length of the center electrodes porcelain
insulator.)
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center
electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
27). The increase in electrode gap will be consider-
ably in excess of 0.001 inch per 2000 miles of opera-
tion. This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat
range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition
timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions
can also cause spark plug overheating.
Fig. 23 Electrode Gap Bridging
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE
2 - DEPOSITS
3 - CENTER ELECTRODE
Fig. 24 Scavenger Deposits
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE COVERED WITH WHITE OR
YELLOW DEPOSITS
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE
Fig. 25 Chipped Electrode Insulator
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE
3 - CHIPPED INSULATOR
8I - 14 IGNITION CONTROLKJ
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

REMOVAL
2.4L
If spark plug for #2 or #3 cylinder is being
removed, throttle body must be removed. Refer to
Throttle Body Removal.
(1) Remove air cleaner tube and housing.
(2) Twist secondary cable at cylinder head to break
loose at spark plug. Remove cable from plug.
(3) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(4) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(5) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Spark
Plug Conditions.
3.7L
Each individual spark plug is located under each
ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be
removed to gain access to each spark plug. Refer to
Ignition Coil Removal/Installation.
(1) Prior to removing ignition coil, spray com-
pressed air around coil base at cylinder head.
(2) Prior to removing spark plug, spray com-
pressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help
prevent foreign material from entering combustion
chamber.
(3) Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a
quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also
check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as
necessary.
(4) Inspect spark plug condition. Refer to Spark
Plug Conditions.
CLEANING SPARK PLUGS
The plugs may be cleaned using commercially
available spark plug cleaning equipment. After clean-
ing, file the center electrode flat with a small point
file or jewelers file before adjusting gap.
CAUTION: Never use a motorized wire wheel brush
to clean the spark plugs. Metallic deposits will
remain on the spark plug insulator and will cause
plug misfire.
INSTALLATION
2.4L
CAUTION: Spark plug tightening on the 2.4L is
torque critical. The plugs are equipped with tapered
seats. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. torque.
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as elec-
trodes can be damaged.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain
insulator.
(1) Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by
hand to avoid cross threading.
(2) Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifica-
tions.
(3) Install throttle body. Refer to Throttle Body
Installation.
(4) Install air cleaner tube and housing.
3.7L
Special care should be taken when installing spark
plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be
Fig. 26 Preignition Damage
1 - GROUND ELECTRODE STARTING TO DISSOLVE
2 - CENTER ELECTRODE DISSOLVED
Fig. 27 Spark Plug Overheating
1 - BLISTERED WHITE OR GRAY COLORED INSULATOR
KJIGNITION CONTROL 8I - 15
SPARK PLUG (Continued)

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold. Refer to proce-
dure in this section.
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to proce-
dure in this section.
(8) Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly.
Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.
(9) Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM.
(10) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig. 4).
(12) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 5). Rotate the crank-
shaft one turn if necessary.
(13) Remove the crankshaft damper. Refer to Pro-
cedure.
(14) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to pro-
cedure.
Fig. 4 Engine Top Dead Center
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
9 - 20 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)

(9) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(10) Install the cylinder head cover. Refer to Cylin-
der Head Cover in this Section.
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy.
The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder
with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The
cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing
chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylin-
der heads.
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each
valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots
on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three
bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote
valve rotation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
²Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
²Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
²Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
9 - 30 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
before attempting any repairs.(Refer to 14 -FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - SPECIFICA-
TIONS)
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Remove air filter housing and inlet tube.
(5) Remove intake manifold.
(6) Remove heater tube support bracket from cyl-
inder head.
(7) Disconnect radiator upper and heater supply
hoses from water outlet connections.
(8) Remove accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(9) Raise vehicle and remove exhaust pipe from
manifold.
(10) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
Do not disconnect lines.
(11) Remove accessory drive bracket
(12) Remove ignition coil and wires from engine.
(13) Disconnect cam sensor and fuel injector wir-
ing connectors.
(14) Remove timing belt and camshaft sprockets.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(15) Remove timing belt idler pulley and rear tim-
ing belt cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIM-
ING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
REMOVAL)
(16) Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(17) Remove camshafts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).
NOTE: Identify rocker arm position to ensure cor-
rect re-installation in original position, if reused.
(18) Remove rocker arms. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS - REMOVAL).
(19) Remove cylinder head bolts in REVERSE
sequence of tightening.
(20) Remove cylinder head from engine block.
(21) Inspect and clean cylinder head. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSPECTION) (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - CLEANING)
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
9s - 20 ENGINEKJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE OR
LEAKING EXHAUST GASES1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts to specified
torque at leaking joints.
2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect exhaust
system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust
pipe.3. Replace exhaust pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at manifold
flange.4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
nuts/bolts.
5. Exhaust manifold cracked or
broken.5. Replace exhaust manifold.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold
and cylinder head.6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
cylinder head bolts.
7. Catalytic converter rusted or
blown out.7. Replace catalytic converter assy.
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if necessary.
CAUTION:
When servicing and replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s). Allowing
the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or sensor.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from
plugs or by any other means short out cylinders.
Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel
passing through the converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is
designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If
unburned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct thecause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid con-
taminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two mini
catalytic converters located after the exhaust mani-
folds and before the inline catalytic converter.
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe to the
catalytic converter connection.
(4) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Loosen the nuts from the clamp that hold the
catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe flange connec-
tion.
11 - 2 EXHAUST SYSTEMKJ
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)