brake lines JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place the transmission in NEUTRAL and raise
and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake drum.
(4) Remove the housing cover and drain lubricant.
(5) Rotate differential case to access the pinion
shaft lock screw. Remove lock screw and pinion shaft
from differential case (Fig. 19).
(6) Push axle shaft inward then remove axle shaft
C-lock (Fig. 20).(7) Remove axle shaft being carefull not to damage
shaft bearing and seal.
(8) Inspect axle shaft seal for leakage or damage.
(9) Inspect axle shaft bearing contact surface for
signs of brinelling, galling and pitting.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear
lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing and
engage it into side gear splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from dam-
aging axle shaft seal lip.
(2) Insert C-lock in end of axle shaft. Push axle
shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
(3) Insert pinion shaft into differential case and
through thrust washers and differential pinions.
(4) Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential
case and install lock screw with Loctiteton the
threads. Tighten lock screw to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install cover and fill with gear lubricant to the
bottom of the fill plug hole.
(6) Install brake drum.
(7) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(8) Remove support and lower vehicle.
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove axle shaft.
(3) Remove axle shaft seal from the axle tube with
a small pry bar (Fig. 21).
Fig. 19 Pinion Shaft Lock Screw
1 - LOCK SCREW
2 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 20 Axle Shaft C-Lock
1 - C-LOCK
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEARFig. 21 Axle Seal
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - AXLE SEAL
3-PRYBAR
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 101

BRAKES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - BASE........................... 1BRAKES - ABS........................... 32
BRAKES - BASE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION..........................2
WARNING.............................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM.............................3
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING............................5
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL
BLEEDING............................6
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE COMPONENTS..................6
TORQUE.............................7
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES........................7
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION..........................8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE
AND HOSES..........................8
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE
INVERTED FLARING....................8
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING . . . 8
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE...............9
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE..........9
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE....10
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE HOSE......10
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION - REAR DRUM BRAKE.......10
OPERATION - REAR DRUM BRAKE.........11
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT BRAKE PADS.........11
REMOVAL - DRUM BRAKE SHOES........11
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE PADS.....11INSTALLATION - DRUM BRAKE SHOES....11
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE......12
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION.........................13
OPERATION...........................14
REMOVAL.............................14
DISASSEMBLY.........................14
CLEANING............................16
INSPECTION..........................16
ASSEMBLY............................16
INSTALLATION.........................17
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
REMOVAL.............................18
INSTALLATION.........................18
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................18
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................19
REMOVAL.............................19
INSTALLATION.........................19
JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION.........................20
OPERATION...........................20
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -
PROPORTIONING VALVE...............20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................20
OPERATION...........................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................21
OPERATION...........................21
KJBRAKES 5 - 1

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

TORQUE
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt/Nut 35 26 Ð
Brake Booster Mounting Nuts 39 29 Ð
Brake Pedal to the Column
Nut22.6 Ð 200
Master Cylinder Mounting
Nuts25 Ð 220
Master Cylinder Brake Lines 20 15 180
Combination Valve Mounting
Nuts17.5 Ð 155
Combination Valve Brake
Lines20 15 180
Caliper Mounting Bolts 15 11 Ð
Caliper Brake Hose Bolt 31 23 Ð
Wheel Cylinder Mounting
Bolts10 7 Ð
Wheel Cylinder Brake Line 14 Ð 124
Parking Brake Lever Screws 10-14 7-10 Ð
Parking Brake Lever Bracket
Screws10-14 7-10 Ð
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES
Installer Caliper Dust Boot 8280
Handle C-4171
Adapter Pressure Bleeder 6921
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake line from the brake hose
inside the engine compartment by the front control
arm bolt (Fig. 4).
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the cali-
per.
(5) Remove the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the hose.
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
body (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove the brake hose mounting bolt at the
top of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove the hose.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 INNER FENDER BRAKE LINE
1 - GROMMET
2 - BRAKE LINE
Fig. 5 FRONT BRAKE HOSE
1 - TOP OF FRONT BRAKE HOSE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
3 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 8).(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
(4) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(5) Install the brake line to the brake hose inside
the engine compartment by the front control arm
bolt.
(6) Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the axle (Fig. 7).
(3) Install the two brake lines at the bottom of the
hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(4) Install the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(5) Install the brake hose mounting bolt at the top
of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(6) Install the brake line to the hose at the body
(Fig. 6).
(7) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(8) Remove the prop rod.
(9) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear brakes use a leading shoe (primary) and
trailing shoe (secondary) design (Right rear brake is
shown) (Fig. 9).
Fig. 6 BRAKE HOSE AT THE BODY
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - BRAKE LINE
4 - COIL SPRING
Fig. 7 BRAKE HOSE AT THE AXLE
1 - REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - VENT HOSE
4 - BRAKE LINES
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 8 BRAKE HOSE MOUNTED
1 - COIL SPRING
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - BRAKE HOSE
4 - FRONT OF THE UPPER CONTROL ARM
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The junction block and a rear brake proportioning
valve. The valve is not repairable and must be
replaced as an assembly if diagnosis indicates this is
necessary.
OPERATION
PROPORTIONING VALVE
The proportioning valve is used to balance front-
rear brake action at high decelerations. The valve
allows normal fluid flow during moderate braking.
The valve only controls fluid flow during high decel-
erations brake stops. If the primary brake hydraulic
circuit cannot build pressure a by-pass feature is
activated allowing full flow and pressure to the rear
brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PROPORTIONING
VALVE
The valve controls fluid flow. If fluid enters the
valve and does not exit the valve the combination
valve must be replaced.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the junction
block.
(3) Remove mounting nuts and bolt and remove
the junction block (Fig. 31).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the junction block on the mounting
studs.
(2) Install mounting nuts and bolt. Tighten to 14
N´m (125 in. lbs.).
(3) Install brake lines to the junction block and
tighten to 20 N´m (180 in. lbs.).
(4) Bleed ABS brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
A suspended-type brake pedal is used, the pedal
pivots on a shaft mounted in the steering coloumn
support bracket. The bracket is attached to the dash
panel. The unit is serviced as an assembly, except for
the pedal pad.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which move the booster
secondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the knee blocker under the steering
column,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
KNEE BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the retainer clip securing the booster
push rod to pedal (Fig. 32).
(3) Remove the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(5) Remove the pedal from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the pedal into the vehicle.
(2) Install the nuts securing the pedal to the col-
umn bracket.
(3) Tighten the nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(4) Lubricate the brake pedal pin and bushings
with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(5) Install the booster push rod on the pedal pin
and install a new retainer clip (Fig. 32).
(6) Install the brake lamp switch,(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
Fig. 31 JUNCTION BLOCK
1 - JUNCTION BLOCK
2 - MOUNTING NUT
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEKJ