light JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: JEEP, Model Year: 2002, Model line: LIBERTY, Model: JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.GPages: 1803, PDF Size: 62.3 MB
Page 7 of 1803
FASTENER USAGE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: USE OF AN INCORRECT FASTENER
MAY RESULT IN COMPONENT DAMAGE OR PER-
SONAL INJURY.
Figure art, specifications and torque references in
this Service Manual are identified in metric and SAE
format.
During any maintenance or repair procedures, it is
important to salvage all fasteners (nuts, bolts, etc.)
for reassembly. If the fastener is not salvageable, a
fastener of equivalent specification must be used.
DESCRIPTION
Most stripped threaded holes can be repaired using
a Helicoilt. Follow the vehicle or Helicoiltrecommen-
dations for application and repair procedures.
THREADED HOLE REPAIR
DESCRIPTION
Most stripped threaded holes can be repaired using
a Helicoilt. Follow the vehicle or Helicoiltrecommen-
dations for application and repair procedures.
INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
DESCRIPTION
The graphic symbols illustrated in the following
International Control and Display Symbols Chart
(Fig. 3) are used to identify various instrument con-
trols. The symbols correspond to the controls and dis-
plays that are located on the instrument panel.
Fig. 3 INTERNATIONAL CONTROL AND DISPLAY SYMBOLS
1 High Beam 13 Rear Window Washer
2 Fog Lamps 14 Fuel
3 Headlamp, Parking Lamps, Panel Lamps 15 Engine Coolant Temperature
4 Turn Warning 16 Battery Charging Condition
5 Hazard Warning 17 Engine Oil
6 Windshield Washer 18 Seat Belt
7 Windshield Wiper 19 Brake Failure
8 Windshield Wiper and Washer 20 Parking Brake
9 Windscreen Demisting and Defrosting 21 Front Hood
10 Ventilating Fan 22 Rear hood (Decklid)
11 Rear Window Defogger 23 Horn
12 Rear Window Wiper 24 Lighter
4 INTRODUCTIONKJ
Page 25 of 1803
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CAMBER AND
CASTER ADJUSTMENT
Camber and caster angle adjustments involve
changing the position of the lower suspension arm
cam bolts. (Fig. 4)
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOE ADJUSTMENT
4X4 SUSPENSION HEIGHT MESUREMENT MUST
BE PERFORMED BEFORE AN ALIGNMENT.
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final
adjustment.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
(2) Loosen the tie rod jam nuts.
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification. This
will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the tie
rod as necessary (Fig. 5).
(4)
Tighten the tie rod jam nut to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(5) Verify the specifications
(6) Turn off engine.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CAMBER, CASTER
AND TOE ADJUSTMENT
Camber and caster angle adjustments involve
changing the position of the lower suspension arm
cam bolts. (Fig. 4)
CASTER
Moving the rear position of the cam bolt in or out,
will change the caster angle significantly and camber
angle only slightly. To maintain the camber angle
while adjusting caster, move the rear of the cam bolt
in or out. Then move the front of the cam bolt
slightly in the opposite direction. (Fig. 4)
To increase positive caster angle, move the rear posi-
tion of the cam bolt outward (from the engine). Move
the front of cam bolt inward (toward the engine) slightly
until the original camber angle is obtained. (Fig. 4)
CAMBER
Move both of the cam bolts together in or out. This
will change the camber angle significantly and caster
angle slightly. (Fig. 4)
After adjustment is made tighten the cam bolt nuts
to proper torque specification.
TOE ADJUSTMENT
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final
adjustment.
(1)
Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before
straightening the wheels. Secure the steering wheel with
the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
(2) Loosen the tie rod jam nuts.
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification. This
will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the tie
rod as necessary (Fig. 5).
(4)
Tighten the tie rod jam nut to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(5) Verify the specifications
(6) Turn off engine.
Fig. 5 TIE ROD END
1 - JAM NUT
2 - TIE ROD - INNER
3 - TIE ROD END - OUTER
Fig. 4 LOWER CONTROL ARM
1 - FRONT CAM BOLT
2 - OUTER TIE ROD END
3 - LOWER BALL JOINT NUT
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
5 - REAR CAM BOLT
KJWHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 5
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
Page 41 of 1803
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the upper suspension arm in the
frame rail brackets (Fig. 8).
(2) Install the mounting bolts and tighten to 100
N´m (74 ft. lbs.).
(3) Retighten the heat shield back into place.
(4) Pull the arm down on the differential housing
bracket and install the pinch bolt and nut. Tighten
the nut to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 7).
(5) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
LOWER CONTROL ARM
DESCRIPTION
The lower suspension arms are stamped steel and
welded and use voided round bushings at the axle
end and solid rubber at the body end of the arm.
OPERATION
The bushings provide isolation from the axle. The
arms mount to the unibody frame rail bracket and
the axle brackets. The arm and bushings provide
location and react to loads.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle and support the rear axle.
(2) Remove the stabilizer bar retaining bolts from
the suspension arm.
(3) Remove the lower suspension arm nut and bolt
from the axle bracket (Fig. 10).
NOTE: When removing the right side suspension
arm from the frame rail it will be necessary to pry
the exhaust over slightly to allow enough clearance
to remove the bolt.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt (Fig. 10) from the
frame rail and remove the lower suspension arm.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower suspension arm in the axle
bracket and frame rail bracket.NOTE: The end of the arm with the voided round
bushing attaches to the axle bracket.
(2) Install the axle bracket bolt and nut finger
tight (Fig. 10).
NOTE: When installing the right side suspension
arm to the frame rail it will be necessary to pry the
exhaust over slightly to allow enough clearance to
install the bolt.
(3) Install the frame rail bracket bolt and nut fin-
ger tight.
(4) Install the stabilizer bar retaining bolts to the
suspension arm.
(5) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(6) With the vehicle on the ground tighten the nut
at the frame to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.). Tighten the
nut at the axle bracket to 163 N´m (120 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 10 LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
1 - AXLE BRACKET BOLT
2 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
3 - BODY BRACKET BOLT
KJREAR 2 - 21
UPPER CONTROL ARM (Continued)
Page 60 of 1803
(5) Remove lower clevis bolt (Fig. 2).
(6) Seperate lower ball joint from the lower control
arm (Fig. 3).
(7) Pull out on the steering knuckle and push the
half shaft out of the knuckle.
(8) With a pry bar remove the half shaft from the
axle.
NOTE: The right side has a splined axle shaft that
will stay in the axle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease on
the female splines of the inner C/V joint.(2) Install half shaft on the axle shaft spline and
push firmly to engage the snap ring. Pull on the half
shaft to verify snap has engaged.
(3) Clean hub bearing bore and apply a light coat
of wheel bearing grease.
(4) Pull out on the steering knuckle and push the
half shaft through the knuckle.
(5) Install lower ball joint into the lower control
arm and tighten pinch bolt.
(6) Align clevis with knuckle. Install and tighten
lower clevis bolt.
(7) Install stabilizer link.
(8) Install half shaft hub nut.
(9) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(10) Remove support and lower vehicle.
SPECIFICATIONS
HALF SHAFT
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Half Shaft Nut 136 100 -
Fig. 3 LOWER CONTROL ARM
1 - FRONT CAM BOLT
2 - OUTER TIE ROD END
3 - LOWER BALL JOINT NUT
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
5 - REAR CAM BOLTFig. 2 CLEVIS BRACKET
1 - UPPER BOLT
2 - CLEVIS BRACKET
3 - LOWER BOLT
KJHALF SHAFT 3 - 11
HALF SHAFT (Continued)
Page 62 of 1803
(10) Remove ball from the bearing cage (Fig. 7).
(11) Repeat step above until all six balls are
removed from the bearing cage.
(12) Lift cage and inner race upward and out from
the housing (Fig. 8).(13) Turn inner race 90É in the cage and rotate the
inner race/hub out of the cage (Fig. 9).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: If C/V joint is worn, replace entire C/V joint
and boot.
(1) Apply a light coat of grease to the C/V joint
components before assembling them.
(2) Align the inner race, cage and housing accord-
ing to the alignment reference marks.
(3) Insert the inner race into the cage (Fig. 10) and
rotate race into the cage.
Fig. 7 BEARING
1 - HOUSING
2 - INNER RACE/HUB
3 - BEARING CAGE
4 - BALL
Fig. 8 CAGE AND INNER RACE/HUB
1 - HOUSING
2 - INNER RACE
3 - CAGE WINDOW
Fig. 9 INNER RACE/HUB
Fig. 10 INNER RACE/HUB
1 - INNER RACE/HUB
2 - BEARING CAGE
KJHALF SHAFT 3 - 13
CV JOINT/BOOT-OUTER (Continued)
Page 69 of 1803
When turning corners, the outside wheel must
travel a greater distance than the inside wheel to
complete a turn. The difference must be compensated
for to prevent the tires from scuffing and skidding
through turns. To accomplish this, the differential
allows the axle shafts to turn at unequal speeds (Fig.
2). In this instance, the input torque applied to the
pinion gears is not divided equally. The pinion gears
now rotate around the pinion mate shaft in opposite
directions. This allows the side gear and axle shaft
attached to the outside wheel to rotate at a faster
speed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out of balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rear end
vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brack-
ets and drive belts.
All driveline components should be examined
before starting any repair.
Fig. 2 DIFFERENTIAL-ON TURNS
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
3 - 20 FRONT AXLE - 186FIAKJ
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA (Continued)
Page 87 of 1803
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coat of lubricant on the lip of the
shaft seal.
(2) Installnewshaft seal with Installer 8806 and
Handle C-4171 (Fig. 28).
(3) Install right axle shaft if removed.
(4) Install half shaft.
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove half shaft.
(2) Remove axle shaft for right side seal removal.
(3) Remove shaft seal with Remover 7794-A and a
slide hammer.
(4) Remove shaft bearing with Remover 7794-A
and a slide hammer (Fig. 29).
INSTALLATION
(1) Installnewshaft bearing with Installer 8805
and Handle C-4171.
(2) Apply a light coat of lubricant on the lip of the
shaft seal.
(3) Installnewshaft seal with an appropriate
installer.
(4) Install right axle shaft if removed.
(5) Install half shaft.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove brake calipers and rotors, refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange for installation reference.
(5) Remove propeller shaft from the pinion com-
panion flange.
(6) Rotate pinion gear a minimum of ten times and
verify the pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Record the torque to rotate the pinion gear
(Fig. 30) with a inch pound torque wrench.
Fig. 28 SEAL INSTALLER
1 - SEAL BORE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 29 SHAFT BEARING REMOVER
1 - SHAFT BEARING
2 - REMOVER
Fig. 30 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION COMPANION FLANGE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
3 - 38 FRONT AXLE - 186FIAKJ
AXLE SHAFT SEALS (Continued)
Page 88 of 1803
(8) Using a short piece of pipe and Spanner
Wrench 6958 to hold the pinion companion flange
(Fig. 31) and remove the pinion nut.
(9) Remove pinion companion flange (Fig. 32) with
Remover C-452 and Spanner Wrench 6958.
(10) Remove pinion seal with Remover 7794-A and
a slide hammer (Fig. 33).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 34).
(2) Install pinion companion flange on the pinion
gear with Installer W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Wrench
6958.CAUTION: Do not exceed the minimum tightening
torque 216 N´m (160 ft. lbs.) while installing pinion
nut at this point. Damage to collapsible spacer or
bearings may result.
(3) Install anewnut on the pinion gear.Tighten
the nut only enough to remove the shaft end
play.
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pin-
ion rotating torque and never exceed specified pre-
load torque. If preload torque or rotating torque is
exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be
installed.
Fig. 31 PINION FLANGE NUT
1 - SPANNER WRENCH
2 - PINION COMPANION FLANGE
Fig. 32 PINION FLANGE REMOVER
1 - SPANNER WRENCH
2 - REMOVER
Fig. 33 PINION SEAL
1 - REMOVER
2 - SLIDE HAMMER
3 - PINION SEAL
Fig. 34 PINION SEAL INSTALLATION
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 39
PINION SEAL (Continued)
Page 96 of 1803
(5) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and intall seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 55).
(6) Install rear pinion bearing and oil slinger/depth
shim onto the pinion shaft with Installer 6448 and a
press (Fig. 56).(7) Install anewcollapsible spacer on pinion shaft
and install the pinion into the housing (Fig. 57).
(8) Install pinion companion flange, with Installer
W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Spanner Wrench 6958.
(9) Install pinion anewnut onto the pinion gear
and tighten the nut to 216 N´m (160 ft. lbs.).Do not
over-tighten.
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease
pinion rotating torque and never exceed specified
preload torque. If preload torque is exceeded a new
collapsible spacer must be installed.
Fig. 55 PINION SEAL
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 56 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - INSTALLER
2 - OIL SLINGER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - REAR PINION BEARING
5 - PRESS
Fig. 57 COLLAPSIBLE PRELOAD SPACER
1 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - SHOULDER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - OIL SLINGER
5 - REAR BEARING
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 47
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)
Page 100 of 1803
The Trac-lokŸ design provides the differential
action needed for turning corners and for driving
straight ahead during periods of unequal traction.
When one wheel looses traction, the clutch packs
transfer additional torque to the wheel having the
most traction. Trac-lokŸ differentials resist wheel
spin on bumpy roads and provide more pulling power
when one wheel looses traction. Pulling power is pro-
vided continuously until both wheels loose traction. If
both wheels slip due to unequal traction, Trac-lokŸ
operation is normal. In extreme cases of differences
of traction, the wheel with the least traction may
spin.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth
contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing
not having the proper offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snap-
ping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-tial bearing noise is also constant and varies only
with vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
LOW SPEED KNOCK
Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn
U-joint or by worn side±gear thrust washers. A worn
pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock.
VIBRATION
Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually
caused by a:
²Damaged drive shaft.
²Missing drive shaft balance weight(s).
²Worn or out-of-balance wheels.
²Loose wheel lug nuts.
²Worn U-joint(s).
²Loose/broken springs.
²Damaged axle shaft bearing(s).
²Loose pinion gear nut.
²Excessive pinion yoke run out.
²Bent axle shaft(s).
Check for loose or damaged front-end components
or engine/transmission mounts. These components
can contribute to what appears to be a rearend vibra-
tion. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets
and drive belts.
NOTE: All driveline components should be exam-
ined before starting any repair.
DRIVELINE SNAP
A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted
into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by:
²High engine idle speed.
²Transmission shift operation.
²Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts.
²Worn U-joints.
²Loose spring mounts.
²Loose pinion gear nut and yoke.
²Excessive ring gear backlash.
²Excessive side gear to case clearance.
The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be deter-
mined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehi-
cle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct
the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen
for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in
isolating the source of a noise.
KJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 51
REAR AXLE - 198RBI (Continued)