air filter JEEP XJ 1995 Service And Owner's Manual

continuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair
circuit to ground as required.
(4) Remove center instrument cluster bezel and
gauge package cluster assembly. Disconnect cluster
connector.
(5) Probe cavity 6 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(6) Still probing cavity 6 of cluster connector, check
for continuity to cavity 2 of sending unit wiring body
half connector. There should be continuity. If OK, re-
place gauge. If not OK, repair open circuit as re-
quired.
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with engine oiling sys-
tem performance. Actual engine oil pressure should
be checked with a test gauge and compared to gauge
readings before you proceed with gauge diagnosis.
Refer to Group 9 - Engines for more information.
(1) Turn ignition switch to ON. Disconnect oil pres-
sure sending unit connector. The sending unit (Fig. 3)
is located on right side of engine block. On 2.5L en-
gine, it is just forward of ignition distributor and just
to the rear of generator mounting bracket. On 4.0L
engine, it is just to the rear of ignition distributor
and above oil filter adapter. The gauge needle should
move to high end of gauge scale. If OK, go to next
step. If not OK, go to step 3.
(2) Install a jumper wire from sending unit wiring
to ground. The gauge needle should move to low end
of gauge scale. If OK, replace sending unit. If not
OK, remove jumper wire and go to next step.(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Remove center instrument cluster be-
zel and gauge package cluster assembly. Disconnect
cluster connector.
(4) Probe cavity 9 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(5) Still probing cavity 9 of cluster connector, check
for continuity to sending unit wire connector. There
should be continuity. If OK, replace gauge. If not OK,
repair open circuit as required.
SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER
The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is re-
lated to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with incorrect speed-
ometer pinion, axle ratio or tire size. Refer to Group
21 - Transmission and Transfer Case for more infor-
mation.
(1) Perform vehicle speed sensor test as described
in the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures
manual. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, replace ve-
hicle speed sensor.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug vehi-
cle speed sensor, PCM, and daytime running lamp
module connectors. Remove left instrument cluster
bezel and main cluster assembly. Disconnect cluster
connector.
(3) Probe cavity 13 of cluster connector. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no con-
tinuity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(4) Still probing cavity 13 of cluster connector,
check for continuity to cavity 1 of vehicle speed sen-
sor connector (Fig. 4). There should be continuity. If
OK, replace speedometer/odometer. If not OK, repair
open circuit as required.
Fig. 2 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit ConnectorFig. 3 Oil Pressure Sending Unit - Typical
8E - 28 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐYJJ

minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a lo-
cating dowel is recommended during assembly to pre-
vent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
To provide best vehicle performance and lowest ve-
hicle emissions, it is most important that the tune-up
be done accurately. Use the specifications listed on
the Vehicle Emission Control Information label found
on the engine compartment hood.
(1) Test battery specific gravity. Add water, if nec-
essary. Clean and tighten battery connections.
(2) Test cranking amperage draw (refer to Group
8B, Battery/Starter Service for the proper proce-
dures).
(3) Tighten the intake manifold bolts (refer to
Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for
the proper specifications).
(4) Perform cylinder compression test:
(a) Check engine oil level and add oil, if neces-
sary.
(b) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature.
(c) Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws and
briskly accelerate through the gears several times.
The higher engine speed may help clean out valve
seat deposits which can prevent accurate compres-
sion readings.
CAUTION: DO NOT overspeed the engine.
(d) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for ab-
normal firing indicatorsÐfouled, hot, oily, etc.
Record cylinder number of spark plug for future
reference.
(e) Disconnect coil wire from distributor and se-
cure to good ground to prevent a spark from start-
ing a fire.
(f) Be sure throttle blades are fully open during
the compression check.
(g) Insert compression gage adaptor into the
No.1 spark plug hole. Crank engine until maximum
pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure
as No.1 cylinder pressure.
(h) Repeat Step 4g for all remaining cylinders.
(i) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 172 kPa (25 psi)
from cylinder to cylinder.(j) If cylinder(s) have abnormally low compres-
sion pressures, repeat steps 4a through 4h.
(k) If the same cylinder(s) repeat an abnormally
low reading, it could indicate the existence of a
problem in the cylinder.
The recommended compression pressures are
to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine
problems. An engine should NOT be disassem-
bled to determine the cause of low compression
unless some malfunction is present.
(5) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary. Ad-
just gap (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System for gap
adjustment and torque).
(6) Test resistance of spark plug cables (refer to
Group 8D, Ignition System).
(7) Inspect the primary wire. Test coil output volt-
age, primary and secondary resistance. Replace parts
as necessary (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System and
make necessary adjustment).
(8) Perform a combustion analysis.
(9) Test fuel pump for pressure (refer to Group 14,
Fuel System for the proper specifications).
(10) Inspect air filter element (refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper proce-
dure).
(11) Inspect crankcase ventilation system (refer to
Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper
procedure).
(12) For emission controls refer to Group 25, Emis-
sion Controls System for service procedures.
(13) Inspect and adjust accessory belt drives (refer
to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper adjust-
ments).
(14) Road test vehicle as a final test.
HONING CYLINDER BORES
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels un-
der the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abra-
sive materials from entering the crankshaft area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823 equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20-60 strokes, de-
pending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to
provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil
C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from ma-
jor oil distributors.
9 - 2 ENGINESJ

CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage, or equivalent. The
following is the recommended procedures for the use
of Plastigage:
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire width
of the bearing cap shell (Fig. 2). Position the Plastigage
approximately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) off center and away
from the oil holes. In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspect area.
(3) The crankshaft must be turned until the connect-
ing rod to be checked starts moving toward the top of
the engine. Only then should the rod cap with Plasti-
gage in place be assembled. Tighten the rod cap nut to
45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.DO NOT rotate the crank-
shaft or the Plastigage may be smeared, giving in-
accurate results.
(4) Remove the bearing cap and compare the width
of the flattened Plastigage with the scale provided on
the package (Fig. 3). Plastigage generally comes in 2
scales (one scale is in inches and the other is a met-
ric scale). Locate the band closest to the same width.
This band shows the amount of clearance. Differ-
ences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken
(refer to Engine Specifications).
(5) Plastigage is available in a variety of clearance
ranges. The 0.025-0.076 mm (0.001-0.003 inch) range
is usually the most appropriate for checking engine
bearing clearances.
REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole.
This brings the hole back to its original thread
size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
SERVICE ENGINE ASSEMBLY (SHORT BLOCK)
A service replacement engine assembly (short
block) may be installed whenever the original cylin-
der block is defective or damaged beyond repair. It
consists of the cylinder block, crankshaft, piston and
rod assemblies. If needed, the camshaft must be pro-
cured separately and installed before the engine is
installed in the vehicle.
A short block is identified with the letter ``S'' stamped
on the same machined surface where the build date
code is stamped for complete engine assemblies.
Installation includes the transfer of components
from the defective or damaged original engine. Fol-
low the appropriate procedures for cleaning, inspec-
tion and torque tightening.
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(refer to Group 14, Fuel System).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and in-
take manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in
the cylinder head. Remove the plugs from the engine.
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (i.e. coolant,
fuel, oil, etc.).
(7) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate
the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil (refer to Group 0, Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance).
(15) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
Fig. 3 Clearance Measurement
9 - 4 ENGINESJ

filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces. See Group 9, Engines for
proper repair procedures of these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is de-
tected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly
turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft
seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crank-
shaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be
polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft ro-
tation, no further inspection can be done until disas-
sembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechanical,
under the Oil Leak row for components inspections
on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, Refer to Group
9, EnginesÐCrankshaft Rear Oil Seals, for proper re-
placement procedures.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to
Oil Pressure in Engine Specifications for the proper
pressures.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST DIAGNOSIS
JENGINES 9 - 7

(a) Disconnect the power steering hoses from the
fittings at the steering gear.
(b) Drain the pump reservoir.
(c) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign material from entering the
system.
(21) Disconnect the coolant hoses from the rear of
the intake manifold.
(22) Identify, tag and disconnect all necessary wire
connectors and vacuum hoses.
(23) Raise the vehicle.
(24) Remove the oil filter.
(25) Remove the starter motor.
(26) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust
manifold.
(27) Remove the flywheel and converter housing
access cover.
(28) If equipped with an automatic transmission,
mark the converter and drive plate location in refer-
ence to each other and remove the converter-to-drive
plate bolts.(29) Remove the upper flywheel and converter
housing bolts and loosen the bottom bolts.
(30) Remove the engine support cushion-to-engine
compartment bracket bolts.
(31) Remove the engine shock damper bracket
from the sill.
(32) Lower the vehicle.
(33) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(34) Raise the engine slightly off the front sup-
ports.
(35) Place a support stand under the converter or
flywheel housing.
(36) Remove the remaining bottom converter or
flywheel housing bolts.
(37) Lift the engine out of the engine compartment
and install on an engine stand.
(38) Install the oil filter to keep foreign material
out of the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove the oil filter.
(2) Lift the engine off the stand and lower it into
the engine compartment. For easier installation, it
may be useful to remove the engine support cushions
from the engine support brackets as an aide for
alignment of the engine-to-transmission.
(3) If equipped with a manual transmission:
(a) Insert the transmission shaft into the clutch
spline.
(b) Align the flywheel housing with the engine.
(c) Install and tighten the flywheel housing lower
bolts finger tight.
(4) If equipped with an automatic transmission:
Fig. 16 Heater Hoses (LH Drive Vehicles), Throttle
Linkage & Quick-Connect Fuel Lines
Fig. 17 Heater Hoses (RH Drive Vehicle)
Fig. 18 Air Cleaner and Power Steering Pump
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 19

(a) Align the transmission torque converter hous-
ing with the engine.
(b) Loosely install the converter housing lower
bolts and install the next higher bolt and nut on
each side.
(c) Tighten all 4 bolts finger-tight.
(5) Install the engine support cushions (if re-
moved).
(6) Lower the engine and engine support cushions
onto the engine compartment brackets.
(7) Remove the engine lifting device.
(8) Raise the vehicle.
(9) If equipped with an automatic transmission:
(a) Install the converter-to-drive plate bolts. En-
sure the installation reference marks are aligned.
Tighten the bolts to 54 Nzm (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Install the converter-housing access cover.
(c) Install the exhaust pipe support.
(10) Install the remaining converter or flywheel
housing bolts.
(11) Install the starter motor and connect the ca-
ble. Tighten the bolts to 45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Tighten the engine support cushing through-
bolt nuts.
(13) Install the remaining flywheel and converter
housing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
(15) Install the oil filter.
(16) Lower the vehicle.
(17) Connect the coolant hoses and tighten the
clamps.
(18) If equipped with power steering:
(a) Remove the protective caps
(b) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 Nzm (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(c) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.
(19) Remove the pulley-to-water pump flange
alignment capscrew and install the fan and spacer or
Tempatrol fan assembly.
(20) Install the fan shroud and radiator and con-
denser (if equipped with air conditioning).
(21) Connect the radiator hoses.
(22) Connect the automatic transmission fluid
cooler pipes, if equipped.
(23) Connect the oxygen sensor wire connector.
(24) Connect the throttle valve rod and retainer.
Connect the throttle cable and install the rod. Install
the throttle valve rod spring.
(25) Connect the speed control cable, if equipped.
(26) Connect the fuel supply and return lines to
the throttle body.
(27) Connect all the vacuum hoses and wire con-
nectors.
(28) Connect the service valves to the A/C compres-
sor ports, if equipped with air conditioning.(29) Fill the power steering reservoir.
(30) Connect the battery cables.
(31) Install the hood.
(32) Install the air cleaner.
(33) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
(34) Fill the cooling system.
(35) Stop the engine and check the fluid levels.
Add fluid, as required.
ENGINE ASSEMBLYÐYJ VEHICLES
REMOVAL
(1) Place a protective cloth over the windshield
frame. Raise the hood and rest it on the windshield
frame (Fig. 19).
(2) Disconnect the battery cable clamps and re-
move the battery.
WARNING: THE COOLANT IN A RECENTLY OPER-
ATED ENGINE IS HOT AND PRESSURIZED. USE
CARE TO PREVENT SCALDING BY HOT COOLANT.
CAREFULLY RELEASE THE PRESSURE BEFORE
REMOVING THE RADIATOR DRAIN COCK AND CAP.
(3) Remove the radiator drain cock and radiator
cap to drain the coolant. DO NOT waste usable cool-
ant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a
clean container for reuse.
(4) Disconnect the wire connectors from the gener-
ator.
(5) Disconnect the ignition coil and distributor wire
connectors.
(6) Disconnect the oil pressure sender wire connec-
tor.
Fig. 19 Hood on Windshield Frame
9 - 20 2.5L ENGINEJ

(7) Disconnect the wires at the starter motor sole-
noid and injection wire harness connector.
(8) Disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines at the
fuel rail and return line by squeezing the two retain-
ing tabs against the fuel tube (Fig. 20). Pull the fuel
tube and retainer from the quick-connect fitting (re-
fer to Group 14, Fuel System for the proper proce-
dure).
(9) Remove the fuel line bracket from the intake
manifold.
(10) Disconnect the engine ground strap.
(11) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(12) Disconnect the vacuum purge hose at the fuel
vapor canister tee.
(13) Disconnect the idle speed actuator wire con-
nector.
(14) Disconnect the throttle cable and remove it
from the bracket.
(15) Disconnect the throttle rod at the bellcrank.
(16) Disconnect the speed control cable, if
equipped.
(17) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wire connector.
(18) Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses
at the radiator.
(19) Disconnect the coolant hoses from the rear of
the intake manifold and thermostat housing.
(20) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(21) Remove the fan shroud screws.
(22) Remove the radiator attaching bolts.
(23) Remove the radiator and fan shroud.
(24) Remove the fan and spacer or Tempatrol fan
assembly.
(25) Install a 5/16 X 1/2-inch SAE capscrew
through fan pulley into water pump flange. This will
maintain the pulley and water pump in alignment
when crankshaft is rotated.
(26) Remove the power brake vacuum check valve
from the booster, if equipped.
(27) If equipped with power steering:(a) Disconnect the hoses from the fittings at the
steering gear.
(b) Drain the pump reservoir.
(c) Cap the fittings on the hoses and steering
gear to prevent foreign objects from entering the
system.
(28) Lift the vehicle and support it with support
stands.
(29) Remove the oil filter.
(30) Remove the starter motor.
(31) Remove the flywheel housing access cover.
(32) Remove the engine support cushion-to-bracket
through bolts.
(33) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the mani-
fold.
(34) Remove the upper flywheel housing bolts and
loosen the bottom bolts.
(35) Remove the engine shock damper bracket
from the sill.
(36) Lower the vehicle.
(37) Attach a lifting device to the engine.
(38) Raise the engine off the front supports.
(39) Place a support stand under the flywheel
housing.
(40) Remove the remaining flywheel housing bolts.
(41) Lift the engine out of the engine compartment
and install on an engine stand.
(42) Install the oil filter to keep foreign material
out of the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove the oil filter.
(2) Lift the engine off the stand and lower it into
the engine compartment. For easier installation, it
may be useful to remove the engine support cushions
from the engine support brackets as an aide for
alignment of the engine-to-transmission.
(3) Insert the transmission shaft into the clutch
spline.
(4) Align the flywheel housing with the engine.
(5) Install and finger tighten the flywheel housing
lower bolts.
(6) Install the engine support cushions (if re-
moved).
(7) Remove the support stand from beneath the
flywheel housing.
(8) Lower the engine and engine support cushions
onto the engine compartment brackets. Ensure that
the bolt holes are aligned. Install the bolts and
tighten.
(9) Remove the engine lifting device.
(10) Raise the vehicle.
(11) Attach the engine shock damper bracket to
the sill.
(12) Attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold. In-
stall and tighten the nuts to 31 Nzm (23 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(13) Install the flywheel housing access cover.
Fig. 20 Fuel Line Quick-Connect Couplings
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 21

(14) Install the remaining flywheel housing bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 38 Nzm (28 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Install the starter motor and connect the ca-
ble. Tighten the bolts to 45 Nzm (33 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Install the oil filter.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect the coolant hoses and tighten the
clamps.
(19) If equipped with power steering:
(a) Remove the protective caps
(b) Connect the hoses to the fittings at the steer-
ing gear. Tighten the nut to 52 Nzm (38 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(c) Fill the pump reservoir with fluid.
(20) Remove the pulley-to-water pump flange
alignment capscrew and install the fan and spacer or
Tempatrol fan assembly.
(21) Tighten the serpentine drive belt according to
the specifications listed in Group 7, Cooling System.
(22) Install the fan shroud and radiator.
(23) Connect the radiator hoses.
(24) Connect the heater hoses.
(25) Connect the throttle valve rod and retainer.
(26) Connect the throttle cable and install the rod.
(27) Install the throttle valve rod spring.
(28) Connect the speed control cable, if equipped.
(29) Connect the oxygen sensor wire connector.
(30) Install the vacuum hose and check valve on
the brake booster.
(31) Connect the coolant temperature sensor wire
connector.
(32) Connect the idle speed actuator wire connec-
tor.
(33) Connect the fuel inlet and return hoses at the
fuel rail. Verify that the quick-connect fitting assem-
bly fits securely over the fuel lines by giving the fuel
lines a firm tug.
(34) Install the fuel line bracket to the intake man-
ifold.
(35) Connect all fuel injection wire connections.
(36) Install the engine ground strap.
(37) Connect the ignition coil wire connector.
(38) Remove the coolant temperature sending unit
to permit air to escape from the block. Fill the cool-
ing system with coolant. Install the coolant tempera-
ture sending unit when the system is filled.
(39) Install the battery and connect the battery ca-
bles.
(40) Install the air cleaner bonnet to the throttle
body.
(41) Install the air cleaner.
(42) Lower the hood and secure in place.
(43) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
(44) Stop the engine and check the fluid levels.
Add fluid, as required.ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
A cured gasket is part of the engine cylinder head
cover.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Disconnect the Crankcase Ventilation (CCV)
vacuum hose from engine cylinder head cover (Fig.
1).
(3) Disconnect the fresh air inlet hose from the en-
gine cylinder head cover (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head cover mount-
ing bolts.
(5) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
CLEANING
Remove any original sealer from the cover sealing
surface of the engine cylinder head and clean the
surface using a fabric cleaner.
Remove all residue from the sealing surface using
a clean, dry cloth.
INSPECTION
Inspect the engine cylinder head cover for cracks.
Replace the cover, if cracked.
The original dark grey gasket material should NOT
be removed. If sections of the gasket material are
missing or are compressed, replace the engine cylin-
der head cover. However, sections with minor damage
such as small cracks, cuts or chips may be repaired
with a hand held applicator. The new material must
be smoothed over to maintain gasket height. Allow
the gasket material to cure prior to engine cylinder
head cover installation.
INSTALLATION
(1) If a replacement cover is installed, transfer the
CCV valve grommet the oil filler cap from the origi-
nal cover to the replacement cover.
(2) Install engine cylinder head cover. Tighten the
mounting bolts to 10 Nzm (85 in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 1 Engine Cylinder Head Cover
9 - 22 2.5L ENGINEJ

(13) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
Nzm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(14) Lower the vehicle.
(15) Install the spark plugs. Tighten the plugs to
37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque.
(16) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the full
mark on the dipstick level.
(17) Connect negative cable to battery.
REAR MAIN OIL SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Discard the old bolts.
(2) Pry out the seal from around the crankshaft
flange (Fig. 8).
INSTALLATION
(1) Coat the outer lip of the replacement rear main
bearing seal with engine oil.(2) Carefully position the seal into place. Use rear
main Seal Installer Tool 6271 to install the seal flush
with the cylinder block.
CAUTION: The felt lip must be located inside the
flywheel mounting surface. If the lip is not posi-
tioned correctly the flywheel could tear the seal.
(3) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
New bolts MUST be used when installing the fly-
wheel or converter plate. Tighten the new bolts to 68
Nzm (50 ft. lbs.) torque. Turn the bolts an additional
60É.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the Engine Assembly from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instruc-
tions.
(1) Drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the
oil filter.
(2) Remove the water pump from the cylinder
block.
(3) Remove the distributor from the cylinder block.
(4) Remove the vibration damper.
(5) Remove the timing case cover and lay the cover
upside down.
(6) Position a drift punch into the slot in the back
of the cover and tap the old seal out.
(7) Remove the timing chain bumper.
(8) Remove the oil slinger from crankshaft.
(9) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and re-
move the sprockets and chain as an assembly.
(10) Remove the camshaft.
(11) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(12) Remove the timing chain tensioner.
(13) Remove the front and rear oil galley plugs.
(14) Remove the connecting rods and the pistons.
Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies
through the top of the cylinder bores.
(15) Remove the crankshaft.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole, the filter
bypass hole (Fig. 9).
²The front and rear oil galley holes (Figs. 10 and
11).
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the plugs to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 7 Crankshaft End Play Measurement
Fig. 8 Replacement of Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 49

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine flywheel or converter drive
plate.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap (No.7).
(4) Push the upper seal out of the groove. Ensure
that the crankshaft and seal groove are not damaged.
(5) Remove the lower half of the seal from the
bearing cap.
INSTALLATION
(1) Wipe the seal surface area of the crankshaft
until it is clean.
(2) Apply a thin coat of engine oil.
(3) Coat the lip of the seal with engine oil.
(4) Carefully position the upper seal into the
groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces
toward the front of the engine.
(5) Place the lower half of the seal into bearing cap
No.7 (Fig. 7).
(6) Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal
with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil (Fig. 7).
(7) Position the lower seal into the bearing cap re-
cess and seat it firmly. Be sure the seal is flush with
the cylinder block pan rail.
(8) Apply Loctite 518, or equivalent on the rear
bearing cap (Fig. 8). The bead should be 3 mm (0.125
in) thick. DO NOT apply Loctite 518, or equivalent to
the lip of the seal.
(9) Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT strike
the cap more than twice for proper engagement.
(10) Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 Nzm (80
ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan.(12) Install the engine flywheel or converter drive
plate.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the Engine Assembly from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the applicable sections for detailed instruc-
tions.
(1) Drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the
oil filter.
(2) Remove the water pump from the cylinder block.
(3) Remove the vibration damper.
(4) Remove the timing case cover and lay the cover
upside down.
(5) Position a drift punch into the slot in the back
of the cover and tap the old seal out.
(6) Remove the oil slinger from crankshaft.
(7) Remove the camshaft retaining bolt and re-
move the sprockets and chain as an assembly.
(8) Remove the camshaft.
(9) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(10) Remove the front and rear oil galley plugs.
(11) Remove the oil pump.
(12) Remove the connecting rods and the pistons.
Remove the connecting rod and piston assemblies
through the top of the cylinder bores.
(13) Remove the crankshaft.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole, the filter
bypass hole.
Fig. 7 Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal
Fig. 8 Location of Loctite 518 (or equivalent)
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 91