suspension MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER 2006 User Guide

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION........................11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................11
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE CHART......12
SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK......13
REMOVAL...........................13
INSTALLATION.......................13
SPRING
DESCRIPTION........................14
OPERATION.........................14
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)...................14REMOVAL - (DRW)...................14
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW)...............14
INSTALLATION - (DRW)...............15
SPRING SHACKLE
REMOVAL...........................15
INSTALLATION.......................15
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVAL...........................15
INSTALLATION.......................15
STABILIZER LINK
REMOVAL...........................16
INSTALLATION.......................16
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar
²Leaf Springs
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mountingbushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
VAREAR 2 - 11

SPRING
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension system uses a multi-leaf
springs and a solid drive axle. The forward end of the
springs are mounted to the body rail hangers
through rubber bushings. The rearward end of the
springs are attached to the body by the use of shack-
les. The spring and shackles use rubber bushings.
OPERATION
The springs control ride quality and maintain vehi-
cle ride height. The shackles allow the springs to
change their length as the vehicle moves over various
road conditions.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Support the rear axle.
(3) Remove the U-bolt and spring plate (Fig. 2).
(4) Remove the spring from the front spring
bracket (Fig. 2).
(5) Remove the rear spring with the spring shackle
from the spring bracket (Fig. 2).
(6) Lower the rear axle and remove the rear
spring.
(7) Remove the spring shackle from the spring (if
needed) (Fig. 2).
REMOVAL - (DRW)
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Support the rear axle.
(3) Remove the U-bolt and spring plate (Fig. 3).
(4) Remove the spring from the front spring
bracket (Fig. 3).
(5) Remove the rear spring with the spring shackle
from the spring bracket (Fig. 3).
(6) Lower the rear axle and remove the rear
spring.
(7) Remove the spring shackle from the spring (if
needed) (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW)
NOTE: Larger spring bushing goes toward the front.
(1) Install the spring shackle to the spring (if
removed) (Fig. 2). Tighten to 90 N´m (66 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the spring to the front spring bracket
(Fig. 2). Tighten to 95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the spring to the rear spring bracket
(Fig. 2). Tighten to 85 N´m (63 ft. lbs.).
(4) Raise the rear axle and attach the spring plate
and U-bolts (Fig. 2). Tighten to 170 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 2 REAR LEAF SPRING WITH SINGLE REAR
WHEELS
1 - NUT
2 - LEAF SPRING
3 - U-BOLTS
4 - PLATE
5 - SPRING BOLT
6 - SHACKLE BOLT
7 - SPRING SHACKLE
8 - U-BOLT NUTS
Fig. 3 REAR LEAF SPRING WITH DUAL REAR
WHEELS
1 - U-BOLTS
2 - NUT
3 - BOLT
4 - SPRING SHACKLE
5 - U-BOLT MOUNTING NUT
6 - U-BOLT BRACKET ALIGNING PLATE
7 - LEAF SPRING
2 - 14 REARVA

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION........................17
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE-ALIGNMENT
INSPECTION.........................17STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOE
ADJUSTMENT........................18
SPECIFICATIONS.....................19
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: Camber and Caster are not adjustable on
this vehicle. (TOE ONLY).
NOTE: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings should be tightened with the vehi-
cle at normal ride height. It is important to have the
springs supporting the weight of the vehicle when
the fasteners are torqued. If springs are not at their
normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be
affected and premature bushing wear may occur.
Wheel alignment involves the correct positioning of
the wheels in relation to the vehicle. The positioning
is accomplished through suspension and steering
linkage adjustments. An alignment is considered
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity and to minimize tire wear. The most important
measurements of an alignment are caster, camber
and toe (Fig. 1).
CAUTION: Never attempt to modify suspension or
steering components by heating or bending.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRE - ALIGNMENT
INSPECTION
Before starting wheel alignment, the following
inspection and necessary corrections must be com-
pleted. Refer to Suspension and Steering System
Diagnosis Chart below for additional information.
(1) Inspect tires for size, air pressure and tread
wear.
(2) Inspect front wheel bearings for wear.
(3) Inspect front wheels for excessive radial or lat-
eral runout and balance.
(4) Inspect ball studs, linkage pivot points and
steering gear for looseness, roughness or binding.
(5) Inspect suspension components for wear and
noise.
(6) Road test the vehicle.
Fig. 1 Wheel Alignment Measurements
1 - FRONT OF VEHICLE
2 - STEERING AXIS INCLINATION
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - TOE-IN
VAWHEEL ALIGNMENT 2 - 17

SUSPENSION AND STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FRONT END NOISE 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.3. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN
STEERING1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Loose or worn steering gear. 3. Replace steering gear.
FRONT WHEELS SHIMMY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Tires worn or out of balance. 3. Replace or balance tires.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
EXCESSIVE STEERING
EFFORT1. Loose or worn steering gear. 1. Replace steering gear.
2. Column coupler binding. 2. Replace coupler.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Tire. 2. Criss-Cross Front Tires.
3. Alignment. 3. Align vehicle to specifications.
4. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.4. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
5. Radial tire lead. 5. Rotate or replace tire as necessary.
6. Brake pull. 6. Repair brake as necessary.
7. Weak or broken spring. 7. Replace spring.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOE ADJUSTMENT
CAMBER AND CASTER ARE NOT ADJUSTABLE
(TOE ONLY)..
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final
adjustment.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.(2) Loosen the tie rod jam nuts.
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification. This
will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the
inner tie rod as necessary.
2 - 18 WHEEL ALIGNMENTVA

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
ROTORS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)..............20
REMOVAL - REAR (SRW)...............20
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)..............21
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............21
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)...........22
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........22
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL - REAR......................23
INSTALLATION - REAR...................23
PARKING BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................23
SPECIAL TOOLS
PARK BRAKE........................24
CABLE TENSIONER
REMOVAL.............................24INSTALLATION.........................24
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................24
REMOVAL - REAR.....................25
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................25
INSTALLATION - REAR.................26
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE CABLES . 26
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................27
SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)....................27
REMOVAL - (DRW)....................27
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....28
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW).................28
INSTALLATION - (DRW).................28
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................28
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE SYS-
TEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEVA

(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3

As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfacesafter a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK / SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP / CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use approved brake fluid (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIP-
TION). Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container
at all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEVA

(3) Check the brake system for any leaks.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector to the brake
fluid level indicator (Fig. 14).
ALB LEVER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the retaining clip for the ALB lever
(Fig. 15).
(3) Remove the bolt for the lever at the axle (Fig.
15).
(4) Remove the lever.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the lever to the vehicle.
(2) Install the lower mounting bolt to the axle (Fig.
15).
(3) Install the lever to the shock bolt and then
install the clip (Fig. 15).
(4) Check the side deflection of the ALB lever with
a straight edge from Point-A to Point-B as the
graphic shows. Max deflection play of the actuator
rod should be no more than 15 mm (.60 in) (Fig. 15).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
ALB CONTROLLER
REMOVAL
(1) Install the brake pedal rod to hold the brake
pressure.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.(3) Remove the brake lines to the (automatic load-
dependant brake pressure control) ALB controller.
(4) Remove the adjusting nut and the spring from
the ALB controller.
(5) Remove the mounting bolts.
(6) Remove the ALB controller.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the ALB controller to the vehicle.
(2) Install the mounting bolts for the controller.
(3) Install the brake lines. Tighten the lines to 16
N´m (142 in. lbs.)
(4) Install the adjusting rod, nut and spring to the
ALB controller.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the brake pedal hold down rod.
(7) Fill and bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Raise the vehicle and adjust the ALB controller
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ALB CONTROLLER - ADJUSTMENTS).
(9) Lower the vehicle and test drive.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Clean any debris away from the test ports caps
at the ALB controller.
(2) Connect brake adapters special tool 9297 to the
test ports at the ALB controller.
(3) Install a Pressure Gauge, Special Tool
C-4007-A, to the adapters.
(4) Tighten all tube nut fittings to 17 N´m (145 in.
lbs.) torque.
(5) Bleed any air out of the system. This includes
bleeding the air from the hose between the pressure
test fitting and pressure gauge, which is done at the
pressure gauge.
NOTE: Adjustment is determined for the automatic
load-dependent brake power control system accord-
ing to the ALB plate. This is housed in the stowage
compartment under the front passenger's door
panel. The part number of the rear spring is
stamped into the spring eye. This must correspond
to the part number of the rear spring on the ALB
plate.
(6) To accurately adjust the rear axle load you
must first determine the rear axle load by weighing
the vehicle at a local scale.
(7) Install the brake pedal winch Special tool 9296
between the brake pedal and the driver seat and
slowly turn the dial until the specified inlet brake
pressure is indicated at the gauge.
Fig. 15 ALB LEVER DEFLECTION
1 - CLIP
2 - SPRING
3 - LEVER
4 - STRIAGHT EDGE
5 - NUT
6 - POINT -A
7 - POINT - B
8 - SUSPENSION POINT
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEVA

seat riser, a fog lamp switch installed in the cluster
bezel on the instrument panel outboard of the steer-
ing column, and a fog lamp bulb installed in each of
the two front lamp units. The front fog lamps have a
path to ground at all times through their connection
to the vehicle wire harness. The headlamp switch cir-
cuitry of the left (lighting) control stalk of the multi-
function switch controls front fog lamp operation by
providing battery current to the front fog lamp relay
only when the low beam headlamps are selected. The
fog lamp switch controls front fog lamp operation by
energizing or de-energizing the front fog lamp relay
control coil.
HAZARD WARNING LAMPS
With the hazard switch in the On position, the
hazard switch button illuminates and the right and
left turn signal indicators as well as the right and
left turn signal lamps begin to flash on and off. When
the hazard warning system is activated, the hazard
switch circuitry within the multi-function switch and
the wipers, turn signals and engine start control
module electronic circuitry within the fuse block will
repeatedly energize and de-energize the turn signal
relay located in the fuse block. The turn signal relay
switches battery current from a fused B(+) fuse in
the fuse block to the turn signal indicators and the
turn signal lamps. The flashing of the hazard switch
button illumination lamp is also controlled by the
output from the turn signal relay.
HEADLAMPS
The headlamp system includes the exterior lighting
switches integral to the left (lighting) control stalk of
the multi-function switch as well as the low and high
beam bulbs installed in the right and left front lamp
units (Fig. 1). The headlamp bulbs have a path to
ground at all times through the vehicle wire harness.
The exterior lighting switches control headlamp oper-
ation by providing battery current to the selected low
or high beam bulbs. Each front lamp unit includes
two integral adjustment screws to be used for static
horizontal and vertical aiming of the headlamp beam
reflectors.HEADLAMP LEVELING
The headlamp leveling system includes a leveling
actuator motor integral to each front lamp unit, and
a rotary thumbwheel actuated headlamp leveling
switch in the cluster bezel on the instrument panel
outboard of the steering column. The headlamp lev-
eling system allows the headlamp beam reflectors to
be adjusted to one of four vertical positions to com-
pensate for changes in inclination caused by the load-
ing of the vehicle suspension. The actuator motors
are mechanically connected through an integral
pushrod to an adjustable headlamp reflector. The
headlamp leveling switch is a resistor multiplexed
unit that provides one of four voltage outputs to the
headlamp leveling motors. The headlamp leveling
motors will move the headlamps to the selected posi-
tion based upon the voltage input received from the
switch. The headlamp leveling motors and switch
have a path to ground at all times. The headlamp
leveling components operate on battery current
received through the park lamps circuit so that the
system will only operate when the exterior lighting is
turned on.
PARK LAMPS
The park lamps system includes the exterior light-
ing switches integral to the left (lighting) control
stalk of the multi-function switch (Fig. 1), the front
park/side marker lamps, the front position lamps, the
rear park lamps, the rear side marker lamps, the
optional clearance lamps, and the license plate
lamps. Each of these lamps are provided with a path
to ground at all times through the vehicle wire har-
ness. The exterior lighting switches control the park
lamp operation by providing battery current through
the park lamps circuit to the appropriate lamp bulbs.
Fig. 1 Lighting Switch
1 - LEFT TURN SIGNAL
2 - RIGHT TURN SIGNAL
3 -EXTERIOR LIGHTING
4 - BEAM SELECT (DIMMER)
5 - OPTICAL HORN
8L - 4 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORVA

DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Oil Filter
Screw Cap to Oil Filter 25 18.5 -
Oil Cooling System
Bolt-Oil-Water Heat Ex-
changer to Timing Cover
Case15 - 133
Oil Level Pressure
Bolt-Dip Stick Guide Tube
to Cylinder Head14 - 123
Bolt-Oil Level Sensor to
Oil Pan14 - 123
Coolant Pre-Heater
Coolant Pre-Heater in En-
gine Block35 26 -
Engine Cooling General
Bolt-Belt Pulley to Coolant
Pump8-35 6 - 26 -
Bolt-Coolant Pump to
Timing Case Cover 6m/
8m14/20 10 - 15 -
Bolt-Thremostat Housing
to Cylinder Head9-80
Coolant Drain Plug to
Crankcase30 22 -
Engine Suspension, Engine Mount, Engine Bracket
Bolt-Engine Bracket to
Crankcase (2 stage,
torque, torque angle)20/90É 15, 90É -
Bolt-Engine Mount to En-
gine Bracket55 40.5 -
Bolt-Front Engine Mount
to Front Axle Carrier35 26 -
Bolt-Rear Engine Cross
Member to Body40 30 -
Bolt-Rear Engine Mount
to Rear Engine Cross
Member35 26 -
Bolt/Nut- Rear Engine
Mount to Transmission40 26 -
Bolt-Shrowd to Engine
Bracket10 - 88.5
Nut-Front Engine Mount
to Engine Bracket65 48 -
Nut-Engine Mount to Ve-
hicle Frame35 26 -
Fuel Filter
Bolt-Clip to Fuel Filter 8 - 70
9 - 14 ENGINEVA