tires MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER 2006 Owner's Manual

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT.......................1REAR AXLE.............................12
PROPELLER SHAFT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PROPELLER SHAFT....................1
STANDARD PROCEDURE.................4
SPECIFICATIONS........................6
SPECIAL TOOLS........................6PROPELLER SHAFT
REMOVAL.............................7
INSTALLATION..........................9
CENTER BEARING
REMOVAL.............................9
INSTALLATION.........................10
PROPELLER SHAFT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PROPELLER SHAFT
PROPELLER SHAFT VIBRATION
Out-of-round tires or wheels that are out of bal-
ance, will cause a low frequency vibration.
Driveline vibration can be from loose or damaged
engine mounts.
Propeller shaft vibration increases with vehicle
speed. A vibration within a specific speed is not usu-
ally caused by a out of balanced propeller shaft.
Worn universal joints or an incorrect propeller shaft
angle, usually cause such a vibration.
VADIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE 3 - 1

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in
seat.5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat
center bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.9) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear
shaft runout.10) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case
runout.12) Inspect and repair as neces-
sary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace as U-joints as neces-
sary.
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and indexing the propeller shaft
180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some vibra-
tions.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being out of bal-
ance, verify with the following procedure:
(1) Place vehicle in netrual.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle by the axles as
level as possible.
(3) Clean all foreign material from propeller shaft
and universal joints.
(4) Inspect propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds, and bent areas.
NOTE: If propeller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(5) Inspect universal joints for wear, properly
installed and correct alignment with the shaft.
(6) Check universal joint clamp screws torque.
(7) Remove wheels and tires. Install wheel lug
nuts to retain the brake drums/rotors.(8) Mark and number propeller shaft six inches
from the pinion yoke end at four positions 90É apart.
(9) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.
(10) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 1).
3 - 2 PROPELLER SHAFTVA

(11) Start engine and re-check for vibration. If lit-
tle or no change in vibration is evident, move clamp
to the next positions and repeat vibration test.
NOTE: If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the vibration may not be propeller
shaft.
(12) If vibration decreased, install a second clamp
(Fig. 2) and repeat vibration test.
(13) If additional clamp causes additional vibra-
tion, separate clamps 1/2 inch above and below the
mark. Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).(14) Increase distance between clamps and repeat
test until vibration is at the lowest level. Bend the
slack end of the clamps so the screws will not loosen.
(15) If vibration remains unacceptable, preform
the procedure to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.
PROPELLER SHAFT RUNOUT
(1) Clean the propeller shaft surface where the
dial indicator will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft away from weld areas, to ensure weld process
will not effect the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If propeller shaft is out of specification, remove
propeller shaft and index the shaft 180É. Install the
propeller shaft and measure shaft runout again.
(6) If propeller shaft is now within specifications,
mark shaft and yokes for proper orientation.
(7) If propeller shaft runout is not within specifica-
tions, check runout of the transmission and axle.
Correct as necessary and repeat propeller shaft
runout measurement.
(8) Replace propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
Fig. 1 Clamp Screw At Position 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 2 Two Clamp Screws At The Same Position
Fig. 3 Clamp Screws Separated
1-1¤2INCH
VAPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3

(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Position a suitable lifting device under the axle
and secure axle to device.
(3) Remove wheels and tires.
(4) Unplug wear indicator cable (Fig. 2) and (Fig.
3).
(5) Detach cable connector for brake pad wear
indicator.
(6) Remove ABS sensor and clamp bushing from
mounting bore.
NOTE: The right-hand ABS sensor cable is labeled
at the factory with a white tag.
(7) Remove cable ties from the park brake cables.
Release connection cable of brake pad wear indicator
and ABS sensor cable up to the relay unit of the
parking brake.
(8) Remove brake cables.
(9) Remove hand brake cable at relay unit.(10) Remove bracket for brake cables at rear axle
tube.
(11) Remove stabilizer bar from axle brackets.
(12) Remove shock absorber bolts from rear axle.
(13) Remove ALB lever from rear axle bracket.
(14) Pull vent line of rear axle out of frame.
(15) Remove propeller shaft.
(16) Remove brake calipers.
(17) Remove U-brackets and plates (Fig. 2) and
(Fig. 3).
(18) Remove axle from the vehicle.
Fig. 3 DUAL REAR WHEEL AXLE
1 - SPRING 12 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - SPRING SHACKLE 13 - LUG NUT
3 - PLATE 14 - NUT
4 - COLLAR NUT 15 - WASHER
5 - BRAKE CABLE 16 - BOLT
6 - REAR AXLE 17 - SHOCK ABSORBER
7 - ALB LEVER 18 - PROPELLER SHAFT
8 - NUT 19 - BOLT
9 - BOLT 20 - ABS SENSOR
10 - WEAR INDICATOR CABLE 21 - SENSOR BUSHING
11 - WEAR INDICATOR CONNECTOR
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 15

(1) Raise axle into position.
(2) Install plates and U-brackets (Fig. 4) and (Fig.
5) withnewnuts. Tighten nuts to 170 N´m (125 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Install propeller shaft and tighten bolts to 70
N´m (52 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: On installation of the propeller shaft, joint
arrows must be flush and must point towards the
frame floor. Tighten the propeller shaft in this posi-
tion.
(4) Install ALB lever to axle bracket and tighten
newnut 34 N´m (46 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install shock absorbers to rear axle and tighten
bolts to:
²M12 x 1.5 Bolt - 70 N´m (52 ft. lbs.)
²M14 x 1.5 Bolt - 110 N´m (81 ft. lbs.)
(6) Install stabilizer bar to axle and tighten bolts
to:
²SRW Axle - 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.)²DRW Axle - 70 N´m (52 ft. lbs.)
(7) Install calipers with adapters and lines.
(8) Install brake hoses and hold-down clips.
(9) Install and adjust park brake cables.
(10) Install connection cable of brake pad wear
indicator and ABS sensor cable up to the relay unit
of the parking brake.
(11) Install cable ties to the park brake cables.
(12) Install ABS sensor and clamp bushing to
mounting bore.
NOTE: The right-hand ABS sensor cable is labeled
at the factory with a white tag.
(13) Attach connector cable for brake pad wear
indicator.
(14) Plug in cable of brake pad wear indicator.
(15) Install the wheels and tires.
(16) Fill axle with appropriate lubricant.
(17) Remove lifting device from under the axle.
(18) Remove support and lower vehicle.
Fig. 5 DUAL REAR WHEEL AXLE
1 - SPRING 12 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - SPRING SHACKLE 13 - LUG NUT
3 - PLATE 14 - NUT
4 - COLLAR NUT 15 - WASHER
5 - BRAKE CABLE 16 - BOLT
6 - REAR AXLE 17 - SHOCK ABSORBER
7 - ALB LEVER 18 - PROPELLER SHAFT
8 - NUT 19 - BOLT
9 - BOLT 20 - ABS SENSOR
10 - WEAR INDICATOR CABLE 21 - SENSOR BUSHING
11 - WEAR INDICATOR CONNECTOR
VAREAR AXLE 3 - 17

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
ROTORS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)..............20
REMOVAL - REAR (SRW)...............20
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)..............21
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............21
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)...........22
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........22
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL - REAR......................23
INSTALLATION - REAR...................23
PARKING BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................23
SPECIAL TOOLS
PARK BRAKE........................24
CABLE TENSIONER
REMOVAL.............................24INSTALLATION.........................24
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................24
REMOVAL - REAR.....................25
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................25
INSTALLATION - REAR.................26
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE CABLES . 26
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................27
SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)....................27
REMOVAL - (DRW)....................27
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....28
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW).................28
INSTALLATION - (DRW).................28
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................28
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE SYS-
TEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEVA

(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3

As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfacesafter a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK / SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP / CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use approved brake fluid (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIP-
TION). Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container
at all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEVA

BRAKE LINES
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
To make a ISO flare use an ISO flaring tool kit.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 2). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 2).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steeltube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 3).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)
(1) Unscrew the cap from the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the front wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the wear indicator cable and the wear
indicator (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 3 Inverted Flare Tools
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEVA

NOTE: Seal off the line ends and connection
threads in the brake calipers with plugs. Also check
brake hoses for signs of cracks.
(5) Remove the brake caliper guide bolt (Fig. 4).
(6) Remove the brake caliper (Fig. 4).
(7) Remove the brake pads (Fig. 4).
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)
(1) Unscrew the cap from the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the front wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the wear indicator cable and the wear
indicator (Fig. 5).
NOTE: Seal off the line ends and connection
threads in the brake calipers with plugs. Also check
brake hoses for signs of cracks.
(5) Remove the brake caliper guide bolt (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the brake caliper (Fig. 5).
(7) Remove the brake pads (Fig. 5).
REMOVAL - REAR (16º WHEELS) (SRW)
(1) Unscrew the cap from the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the rear wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(4) Remove the wear indicator cable and the wear
indicator (Fig. 6).
NOTE: Seal off the line ends and connection
threads in the brake calipers with plugs. Also check
brake hoses for signs of cracks.
(5) Remove the brake caliper guide pins (Fig. 6).
(6) Remove the brake caliper from the caliper
adapter (Fig. 6).
(7) Remove the retaining spring (Fig. 6).
(8) Remove the pads (Fig. 6).Fig. 4 FRONT BRAKE PADS
1 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
2 - GUIDE BOLT
3 - WEAR INDICATOR
4 - DISC BRAKE PADS
5 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 5 FRONT DISC BRAKE PADS WITH DUAL
REAR WHEELS
1 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
2 - GUIDE PIN/BOLT
3 - WEAR INDICATOR
4 - BRAKE PADS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 9