wheel bolts NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Workshop Manual

38 Engine
*Piston skirt to cylinder bore clearance:
1.6 liter .....................................0. 020-0.040 mm
1.8 liter .....................................0. 010-0.030 mm
Gudgeon pin length:
1.6 liter ...................................................... 53 mm
1.8 liter .................................................. 61.5 mm
Gudgeon pin diameter.................20.990-20.995 mm
Gudgeon pin clearance in piston:
1.6 liter .....................................0. 010-0.020 mm
1.8 liter ..................................0. 0055-0.0115 mm
Gudgeon pin offset in piston:
1.6 liter......... 0.35-0.65 mm towards thrust side
1.8 liter................... 0.8 mm towards thrust side
*Measured 9 mm from the bottom of the piston skirt
for 1.6 liter models and 6 mm from the bottom of the
piston skirt for 1.8 liter models.
PISTON RINGS
Rings per piston:
Compression .......................................................2
Oil contro l .......................................................... 1
End gap:
Compression ................................ 0.30-0.50 mm
Oil control —
1.6 liter ......................................... 0.33-1.10 mm
1.8 liter ......................................... 0.40-1.40 mm
CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS
Connecting rod side clearance............ 0.07-0.24 mm
Maximum connecting rod weight variation..8 grams
Crankpin bearing oil clearance ....... 0. 019-0.063 mm

CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS
Number of bearings .................................................. 5
End float taken at ...................... No. 3 main bearing
End float .......................................... 0.070-0.302 mm
Bend limit ...................................................0.03 mm
Main bearing oil clearance .............0. 015-0.040 mm
Main bearing journal diameter.. .57.982-57.995 mm
Crankpin diameter .......................48.971-48.987 mm

FLYWHEEL
Ring gear run out limit.................................. 0.3 mm
Clutch face regrind limit .............................. 0.3 mm
CAMSHAFT
Drive ...................................................... Toothed belt
End float .............................................. 0.04-0.14 mm
Bend limit ................................................... 0.03 mm
Bearings ...........................................Direct in housing
Journal diameter:
Standard —

No. 1 ..................................... 42. 455-42.470 mm
No. 2 ..................................... 42. 705-42.720 mm
No. 3 ..................................... 42.955-42.970 mm
No. 4 ..................................... 43.205-43.220 mm
No. 5 ..................................... 43.455-43.470 mm
Undersize —
No. 1 .....................................42.355-42.370 mm
No. 2 ......................................42.605-42.620 mm
No. 3 .....................................42.855-42.880 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.105-43.120 mm
No. 5 .....................................43. 355-43.370 mm
*An undersize camshaft can be identified by a violet
flash between the inlet and exhaust lobes of No. 2
cylinder.

Housing diameter;
Standard —

No. 1 .....................................42. 500-42.525 mm
No. 2 .....................................42.750-42.775 mm
No. 3 .....................................43.000-43.025 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.250-43.275 mm
No. 5 .....................................43.500-43.525 mm
*Undersize —
No. 1 .....................................42.400-42.425 mm
No. 2 .....................................42.650-42.675 mm
No. 3 .....................................42.900-42.925 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.150-43.175 mm
No. 5 .....................................43.400-43.425 mm
*An undersize camshaft housing can be identified by
a violet flash on the centre camshaft bearing support.

LUBRICATION
Oil pump type .......................................Involute gear
Filter type................................... Full flow disposable
Oil pressure at 4 000 rpm .....................480-620 kPa
Rotor assembly end float .................. 0.03-0. 010 mm
Rotor teeth backlash ......................... 0.010-0.20 mm
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
*Cylinder head bolts:
Initial torque ............................................. 25 Nm
1st stage ......................................... + 60 degrees
2nd stage ........................................ + 60 degrees
3rd stage......................................... + 60 degrees
4th stage, engine at operating
temperature .............................. + 30-50 degrees
Exhaust manifold nuts .................................... 22 Nm
Exhaust manifold flange nuts ......................... 22 Nm
Inlet manifold nuts.......................................... 22 Nm
Throttle body to inlet manifold nuts ..............12 Nm
Camshaft liming gear bolt ...............................45 Nm
Camshaft retainin g plate bolts ......................... 7 Nm
Camshaft cover bolts......................................... 8 Nm
Thermostat cover bolts ....................................15 Nm
*Main bearing bolts..................60 Nm + 45 degrees
Connecting rod bearing
cap nuts ................................... 35 Nm + 45 degrees
* Crankshaft timing
gear bolt.................................. 145 Nm + 35 degrees
*Flywheel bolts
(microencapsulated) ................ 60 Nm + 30 degrees
*Drive plate bolts (microencapsulated)........... 60 Nm
Water pump bolts............................................ 25 Nm

Engine 41

DROP IN OIL PRESSURE
(1) Oil level low in the sump: Check and replen-
ish the oil to the full mark on the dipstick.
(2) Thin or diluted oil: Change to the correct oil
grade and rectify the source of dilution. (3) Oil pump relief valve stuck or spring broken;
Free up the relief valve or renew the broken relief
valve spring. (4) Excessive bearing clearance: Renew the bear-
ing shells or recondition the crankshaft journals as
necessary.
(5) Excessive wear of the oil pump components:
Renew or recondition the oil pump.
NOTE: If the vehicle is not equipped with an
oil pressure gauge re move the oil sender unit
and connect a pressure gauge into the oil
gallery. Check the oil pressure with the
engine cold and hot. If the oil pump or relief
valve are faulty. low pressure will be indi-
cated with the engine both hot and cold.
However, if the bearings are at fault a fairly
high oil pressure will be indicated when the
engine is cold, but a marked drop in pressure
will occur when the engine is hot.

ENGINE WILL NOT ROTATE
(1) Starter motor drive jammed: Remove the
starter motor. Check and renew the damaged drive
and/or flywheel ring gear.
(2) Engine overheated an d seized: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Check and renew any damaged
components. See the following note.
(3) Water in the cylinder due to a blown head
gasket or cracked cylinder block or head: Remove the
cylinder head. If the gasket is blown, check for
cylinder block and head distortion and reface if
necessary. Renew the cylinder head and/or cylinder
block if cracked.
(4) Broken crankshaft, connecting rod. piston
etc. due to overheating, fatigue etc: Remove and
dismantle the engine. Examine and renew any com-
ponents as necessary. (5) Valve head broken off due to overheating,
fatigue etc: Remove the cylinder head and check the
head, piston and cylinder bore for damage. Repair or
renew as necessary.
NOTE: Invariably when an engine seizes
because of overheating due to lack of oil
and/or water, damage is done to the bear-
ings, pistons etc. Although there may be
instances where an engine will start and run
after it has cooled down and the oil and
water have been replenished, it will usually
be found that oil consumption increases, oil
pressure decreases and the engine will be
noisier, depending on the degree of damage.

When a cylinder head gasket blows allow-
ing water into the cylinders, or compression
loss between the cylinders, it is essential to
check the gasket faces on the cylinder block
and head for distortion. Sufficient water can
enter a cylinder because of a blown head
gasket, cracked cylinder or head to prevent
an engine from rotating.

This is normally preceded by difficult
starting, misfiring, excessive steam from the
exhaust and loss of water from the radiator.

Frequent jamming of the starter motor
drive with the flywheel ring gear can be due
to a bent starter armature shaft or damaged
teeth on the drive and/or ring gear. With the
starter motor removed, the flywheel ring
gear teeth can be examined through the
starter motor mounting aperture. Renewal
of the ring gear requires removal of the
transaxle, clutch and flywheel on manual
transaxle models and the removal of the
transaxle and drive plate on automatic
transaxle models. To check for a bent arma-
ture shaft, rotate the shaft by hand while
holding the end in close proximity to a fixed
object.

2. DESCRIPTION
The 1.6 and 1.8 liter engines are basically identi-
cal in design.

Both engines share the same stroke. The 1.8 liter
engine has a larger bore thus giving it increased
capacity.

The engine is a four cylinder, inline, overhead
camshaft design transversely mounted in the front of
the vehicle.

The camshaft runs in five integral support bear-
ings in the camshaft housing which in turn is mounted
directly on to the cylinder head and retained by the
cylinder head bolts.

Camshaft end float is controlled by a retaining
plate engaged in a groove machined in the rear
camshaft journal. The camshaft is driven by the
crankshaft timing gear vi a a reinforced rubber belt.

The aluminum cross flow cylinder head houses
the tappets, rocker arms a nd valve assemblies. An oil
pressure relief valve is installed to the cylinder head to
maintain oil pressure to the hydraulic tappets at a
predetermined setting.

The exhaust valve springs are equipped with
rotators mounted below the valve springs which rotate
the exhaust valve assemblies. The rocker arms pivot
on hydraulic tappet assemblies and locate in notched
lash pads mounted on the valve stems. The camshaft
lobes bear directly onto the rocker arms and due to
the characteristics of the hydraulic tappet assemblies,
no provision is made for tappet clearance adjustment.

42 Engine
The cylinder block is a cast iron alloy, deep skirt
design and the crankshaft is supported in the cylinder
block by five precision insert replaceable main bear-
ings. Crankshaft end float is controlled by the flanged
centre main bearing. Connecting rods are I section
forgings equipped with precision insert replaceable big
end bearings. The gudgeon pins are an interference fit
in the connecting rod and a floating fit in the piston.

The cast aluminum pistons are equipped with
two compression rings and one oil control ring.

The twin rotor, involute gear oil pump is mounted
directly to the front face of the cylinder block. The
inner rotor is internally driven by the crankshaft. The
oil pump pressure relief valve is not adjustable, and
consists of a plunger and spring mounted in the oil
pump body.

The pump draws oil through a screen in the sump
and delivers it, via a full flow replaceable oil filter, to
the oil gallery from where it is distributed to the
hydraulic tappets, camshaft and crankshaft bearings
and to the overhead rocker and valve mechanism.

3. ENGINE AND TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY
Special Equipment Required:
To Remove and Instill — Suitable lifting tackle,
extra long chassis stands, suitable trolley

TO REMOVE
NOTE: Due to the high residual pressure
within the fuel system, it will be necessary to
depressurize the system before removing any
fuel supply components. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section for the
correct procedure.

(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Mark around the bonnet hinges with a soft
lead pencil Co facilitate correct installation. With the
aid of an assistant, remove the bonnet retaining bolts
and remove the bonnet from the vehicle.
(3) Drain the engine and transaxle lubricant.
(4) Open the coolant drain tap located on the
lower radiator pipe and drain the coolant. (5) Loosen the hose clips and disconnect the
heater hoses from the heater pipes at the bulkhead.
NOTE: Do not use excessive force to remove
the heater hoses from the heater pipes or the
heater core will become dislodged from the
heater unit. If necessary, cut the heater
hoses from the pipes using a sharp knife.

(6) Loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the
radiator hoses from the engine assembly. (7) Disconnect the positive lead from the bat-
tery. (8) On 1.8 liter models, disconnect the air inlet
duct.
(9) On 1.6 liter models, remove the air cleaner
assembly. Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section if necessary. (10) Disconnect the throttle cable from the throt-
tle body and from the camshaft housing top cover
bracket, if applicable. (11) Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses.
Mark the hoses as an aid to installation. (12) Suitably mark and disconnect the charcoal
canister hoses. (13) Disconnect the injector wires from the injec-
tors. On 1.6 liter models, slide the wiring out from the
throttle body. (14) Disconnect the wiring fr om the throttle po-
sition sensor (TPS), idle air control (IAC) valve,
oxygen (O
2) sensor wire, coolant temperature sensor,
coolant sender and on 1.8 liter models, the manifold
air temperature (MAT) sensor. (15) Disconnect the wiring connector adjacent to
the top heater hose, the wiring from the alternator and
the two earth wires from underneath the cylinder head
bolts. (16) Lay the wiring loom over on the passenger
side of the engine compar tment, clear of the work
area.
(17) On manual transaxle models, loosen the
clutch cable adjusting nuts and remove the cable
through the slot in the lever. Remove the clutch cable
bracket from the transaxle after removing the retain-
ing bolts and place the cable to one side.
(18) Disconnect the wiring from the starter mo-
tor, speedometer sender and on manual transaxle
models, the reverse lamp switch wiring.
(19) If applicable, disconnect the power steering
lines from the pump and drain the fluid into a
container. Suitably plug the lines and the pump to
prevent the entry of dirt.
(20) On automatic transaxle models, disconnect
the selector cable and bracket from the transaxle
assembly.
Disconnect the transaxle oil cooler lines from the
transaxle. Plug the lines and fittings to prevent the
entry of dirt etc.

(21) Loosen the front wheel nuts, raise the front
of the vehicle and support it on extra long chassis
stands. Ensure that the vehicle is high enough to allow
removal of the engine from underneath. (22) Remove the front wheels and the engine
splash guards from the vehicle.
(23) On manual transaxle models, remove the
stay rod and control rod bolts and nuts and disconnect
the rods from the transaxle.
(24) Remove the lower control arm to steering
knuckle ball joint nuts and separate the ball joints
from the steering knuckle by holding a dolly or a
hammer against one side of the steering knuckle and
hitting the other side with a hammer. The taper on the
ball joint will release fr om the steering knuckle.
(25) Pull the steering knuckles outward swiftly to

46 Engine
(1) Ensure that all carbon and old gasket mate-
rial is cleaned from the manifold and cylinder head
faces. (2) Check the face of the manifold for distortion
using a straight edge and a feeler gauge. (3) Use a new gasket and ensure that the mani-
fold retaining nuts are tightened to the specified
torque in a spiral pattern from the centre outwards. (4) Adjust the throttle cabl e as described in the
Fuel and Engine Management section and the kick-
down cable as described in the Automatic Transaxle
section.
(5) Start the engine and check for air, fuel and
water leaks.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD

To Remove and Install
(1) Bring the engine to operating temperature
and remove the oxygen sensor.
(2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(3) On 1.6 liter models, remove the air cleaner
nuts, disconnect the vacuum hose and withdraw the
air cleaner from the vehicle. (4) Remove the front exhaust pipe flange mount-
ing nuts and separate the exhaust pipe from the
manifold. (5) Remove the heat shield retaining bolts and
withdraw the heat shield from the exhaust manifold. (6) Remove the exhaust manifold to cylinder
head retaining nuts and remove the manifold from the
engine. Discard the manifold gasket. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:

(1) Ensure that all carbon is cleaned from the
manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. (2) Check the face of the manifold for distortion
using a straight edge and feeler gauges. (3) Use new gaskets on assembly.
(4) Tighten the exhaust manifold retaining nuts
to the specified torque in the sequence shown in the
illustration. (5) Install the oxygen sensor. Refer to the Fuel
and Engine Management section. (6) Coat the threads of the front exhaust pipe to
manifold retaining nuts with an anti-seize solution
and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
5. CAMSHAFT DRIVE BELT
Special Equipment Required:
To Adjust — Drive belt adjusting tool
TO REMOVE
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Raise the front of the vehicle, support it on
chassis stands and remove the right hand front wheel.
Refer to the Wheels and Tires section. (3) Remove the fasteners securing the engine
splash guard to the right hand front inner mudguard
and remove the splash guard. (4) Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and if
equipped, the power steering and air conditioning
adjusting bolts. Remove the drive belt(s).


View of the exhaust manifold and components showing
the correct tightening sequence.

View of the 1.8 liter engine with the upper timing belt
cover removed showing the camshaft gear timing
marks. Inset shows the crankshaft pulley timing
marks.

54 Engine
in the valve stem groove before releasing the spring
compressor. A sharp tap to the top of the valve stem
with a soft faced hammer will ensure that the collets
are correctly seated.

(7) Install the inlet and exhaust manifolds using
new gaskets and tighten the mounting nuts to the
specified torque as previously described. (8) Install a new sealing ring to the
thermostat
housing, install the housing to the cylinder head and
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque.
(9) Ensure that the lappet assemblies are filled
with clean engine oil and install the tappets in
their
respective bores in the cylinder head. (10) Install the thrust pads to the top of each
valve
assembly, ensuring that they are returned to their
original locations. (11) Coat the contact surfaces of the rocker arms
with molybdenum disulphide grease and install the
rocker arms to their origin al locations on the cylinder
head. (12) Install the cylinder head to the engine as
previously described.
8. ENGINE SUMP AND OIL PUMP PICKUP . PIPE

TO REMOVE
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Refer to the Wheels and Tires
section for the correct procedure.
(3) Remove the sump plug and drain the engine
oil into a container. Install and tighten the plug
after the oil has been drained.
(4)
Remove the engine pipe as described at the
end of this section.
(5) Remove the nuts and bolts retaining the
engine crossmember to the vehicle underbody and
withdraw the crossmember from the vehicle. On
automatic transaxle models, it will be necessary to
release the selector cable from the crossmember
bracket.
(6) Remove the sump retaining bolts and wash-
ers and if necessary firmly bump the sump with the
palm of the hand and remove it from the engine. (7) Remove the bolts retaining the oil pump
pickup pipe to the oil pump and disconnect the
pickup pipe from the support bracket. Remove the
pickup pipe and discard the O ring seal. (8) Remove the scraper and gasket from the
engine. (9) Clean the gasket material from the sump,
engine block and the scraper.
NOTE: If the scraper assembly is damaged
it should be renewed.

TO INSTAL
(1) Wash the inside of the sump to remove
carbon and sludge deposits. Check for any metal
deposits which may indicate an imminent component
failure. (2) Inspect the sump for dents and cracks.
Ensure that the gasket sea ling face is not distorted or
damaged. (3) Clean the pickup pipe screen with solvent
and a brush. (4) Using a new O ring seal, install the pickup
pipe. Coat the pipe retain ing bolts with Loctite 242
and tighten to the specified torque. (5) Apply a bead of KP510-00150 sealer or
equivalent to the oil pump to cylinder block mating
joint area. (6) Ensure that the sump gasket is correctly
located on the scraper and install the sump to
the
engine. Apply Loctite 242 to the threads of the sump
bolts and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
(7) Install the front exhaust pipe using a
new
gasket and coat the threads of the flange nuts with an
anti-seize compound before tightening the nuts to the
specified torque. (8) Install the engine crossmember and
tighten
the nuts and bolts securely. If applicable, connect the
automatic transaxle selector cable to the crossmember
bracket. (9) Ensure that the sump drain plug is secure
and lower the vehicle to the ground. (10) Fill the engine with the specified amount and
grade of engine oil. Refer to the Lubrication and
Maintenance section if necessary. (11) Start and run the engine and check for oil
leaks.
View of the sump, oil pump pickup, gasket and scraper
removed from the engine.

Engine 55

9. OIL PUMP
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) Disconnect the lower radiator hose and drain
the cooling system. (3) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. Refer to the Wheels and Tires
section if necessary. (4) Remove the right hand front wheel.
(5) Remove the fasteners securing the engine
splash guard to the right hand front inner mudguard
and remove the splash guard. (6) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. Remove the oil
filter.
(7) Remove the camshaft timing belt as de-
scribed previously. (8) Disconnect the oil pressure sender electrical
connector. (9) Using a socket and bar, remove the bolt and
spacer retaining the crankshaft timing gear to the
crankshaft. Discard the bolt.
NOTE: It may be necessary to lock the
crankshaft when removing the crankshaft
timing gear retaining bolt. If necessary,
insert a piece of timber between the crank-
case and the crankshaft to prevent the
crankshaft turning.

(10) Remove the crankshaft timing gear from the
crankshaft. It may be necessary to lever the gear from
the crankshaft using two screwdrivers. Remove the
key and spacer from the crankshaft. (11) Remove the camshaft housing top cover.
(12) Using an open ended spanner, hold the
camshaft between the inlet and exhaust lobes of
number four cylinder and remove the camshaft timing
gear retaining bolt and the camshaft timing gear.
(13) Remove the bolts securing the water pump
to the cylinder block and remove the water pump. If
necessary- refer to the Cooling and Heating Systems
section. (14) Remove the camshaft drive belt inner cover
retaining bolts and remove the inner cover. (15) Remove the bolts securing the oil pump to

Dismantled view of the oil pump assembly.
the cylinder block and remove the oil pump from the
engine. Discard the gasket.

(16) Remove the screws retaining the oil pump
cover plate and lift the cover plate from the rear of the
oil pump. (17) Lift the inner and outer rotors from the oil
pump housing. Note that the outer rotor may be
stamped with a mark which must face the cover plate
on assembly. (18) Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve plug
and remove the relief spring and plunger from the oil
pump housing. Discard the sealing washer from the
relief valve plug. (19) If necessary, remove the oil pressure gauge
sender unit.
(20) Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the
pump housing.
TO CHECK AND INSPECT

(1) Wash all the pump components thoroughly
in cleaning solvent and allow to dry.
(2) Inspect the inner and outer rotors and the
cover plate for scoring or wear. Renew the rotors
and/or the cover plate if these faults are evident. (3) Temporarily install the rotors into the oil
pump housing. Check the b acklash between the teeth
of the inner and outer rotors at the point where the
rotor teeth are most closely meshed. If the clearance at
this point exceeds the Specif ications, check the rotors
and housing for wear and renew as necessary. (4) Check the rotor end float by placing a
straight edge across the oil pump housing and measure
the clearance between the straight edge and the rotors
View of the oil pump and associated components.

56 Engine

Checking the oil pump rotor end float.
with a feeler gauge. Renew the oil pump if this
clearance exceeds the Specifications.

(5) Check the cover plate for wear and scoring
and renew as necessary. (6) Check the relief valve plunger and spring for
wear or damage. Renew any faulty components as
necessary.
TO ASSEMBLE AND INSTAL

Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling proce-
dure with attention to the following points:

(1) Liberally lubricate all components with clean
engine oil before assembly. (2) Install the relief valve plunger and spring into
the pump housing and install the relief valve
plug
using a new sealing washer. Tighten the plug securely. (3) Install the outer rotor into the pump housing with the F mark on the rotor facing towards the cover
plate, if applicable. Install the inner rotor ensuring that
it is correctly meshed with the teeth of the outer rotor.

(4)
Install the cover plate to the oil pump housing
and tighten the retaining screws to the specified
torque. (5) Install a new oil seal to the front of the oil
pump housing. Ensure that the lip of the oil seal faces
the inside of the oil pump housing. (6) If necessary, install the oil pressure gauge
sender unit.
(7) Turn the inner rotor in the oil pump housing.
Ensure that the oil pump rotates freely. (8) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the oil
pump and cylinder block are thoroughly clean. Coat
the oil pump gasket with an oil resistant sealer and
install the oil pump and gasket to the cylinder block. It
may be necessary to turn the oil pump slightly to align
the inner rotor and crankshaft. Tighten the retaining
bolts to the specified torque.
NOTE: Ensure that the oil seal installed to
the oil pump is not damaged when the oil
pump is positioned on the crankshaft.

(9) Install the camshaft drive belt inner cover.
(10) Install the water pump using a new O ring.
Coat the water pump and the engine block mating
surfaces with Dow Corning silicone grease or equiva-
lent. Do not fully tighten the water pump retaining
bolls at this stage. (11) Install the camshaft timing gear and tighten
the retaining bolt to the specified torque.
(12) Install the crankshaft timing gear spacer, key
and timing gear to the crankshaft. (13) Using a new crankshaft timing gear retaining
bolt, install the spacer and tighten the retaining bolt to
the specified torque. (14) Ensure that the oil pump pickup pipe and
screen are clean and free of foreign material. Install a
new O ring to the pipe and position the pickup pipe
and screen in position on the oil pump. Coat the
threads of the mounting bolts with Loctite 242 and
torque the bolts to the specified torque. (15) Fill a new oil filter with the correct grade of
engine oil and install the oil filter. (16) Install the sump as previously described.
(17) Install and adjust the camshaft drive belt as
described under the Camshaft Drive Belt heading. (18) Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil. Refer to the Lubrication and Mainte-
nance section.
(19) Fill the cooling system as described in the
Cooling and Heating Systems section. (20) Start and run the engine and check for oil
and coolant leaks. (21) Install the engine splash guard to the
inner
right hand mudguard. (22) Install the right hand wheel and tighten the
wheel nuts as much as possible.
Checking the oil pump inner to outer rotor teeth
backlash.

Engine 57
(23) Lower the vehicle to the ground and securely
tighten the wheel nuts.

10. PISTONS, CONNECTING RODS AND
CYLINDER BORES

Special Equipment Required:
To Inspect — Micrometer, cylinder measuring
gauge
To Remove Ridge from Bores — Ridge removal tool
To Deglaze Cylinder Bores — Cylinder surfacing
hone
To Install — Piston ring compressor
TO REMOVE
(1) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. (2) Remove the cylinder head as previously
described. (3) Mark the relationship of the pistons to their
respective cylinders and the bearing caps to their
respective connecting rods by letter stamps or centre
punch marks. (4) Measure each connecting rod for side clear-
ance on the crankpin. Refer to the illustration. If the
clearance exceeds the Speci fications a new connecting
rod will have to be installed on assembly. (5) With number one cylinder on the bottom of
its stroke, remove the bear ing cap bolts and the
bearing cap. Wipe the bearing shell and the exposed part of the
journal with a piece of clean lint free cloth, insert a
piece of Plastigage across the journal, install the
bearing cap and tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.

Remove the bolts and cap and measure (with the
scale on the packet) the spread width of the Plastigage
to determine the bearing clearance.

Compare the measurement to the Specifications
and if the bearing clearance exceeds the limit, install a
new bearing on assembly.

Repeat the procedure on the remaining cylinders
and note each individual bearing clearance for assem-
bly purposes.

NOTE: Do not rotate the engine while the
Plastigage is in position or false readings
will result.

Dismantled view of the piston and connecting rod
components.
(6) Remove each bearing cap in turn, keeping
them in order, and using a wooden hammer shaft,
push each piston assembly from the cylinder block
and install its respective bearing cap.

NOTE: Before removing the pistons, remove
the ridge from the top of the cylinder bore
using a ridge removal tool.

(7) Remove the piston rings over the top of the
piston and discard the piston rings.

Checking the connecting rod side clearance using feeler
gauges.

60 Engine
NOTE: Should the ring end gap be greater
than the specified gap, another ring set
should be obtained and the ring end gaps
checked and compared with the Specifica-
tions.

(3) Treat each ring and cylinder bore individu-
ally and ensure that the rings are assembled to the
respective piston for the cylinder bore in which they
were installed to check the end gap.
(4) Assemble each oil control ring to its respec-
tive piston bottom groove as follows:
(a) Install the oil ring expander to the
piston
groove, ensuring that the ends of the expander are
bulled together and not overlapped. (b) Position one end of the lower side rail in the
groove and peel the ring over the piston and into the
groove. (c) Similarly install the upper side rail.
(5) Install the lower compression ring into
the
lower piston groove.

NOTE: The compression rings should be
installed with the manufacturers mark fac-
ing the top of the piston. To minimize the
possibility of ring breakage the rings can be
immersed in hot water prior to installation.

(6) Install the upper compression ring into
the
upper piston groove.
(7) Space the compression ring gaps 120 degrees
apart, and ensure that the o il ring gaps and the join in
the oil ring expander are not aligned. (8) With the rings correctly installed and
gapped, remove the bearing cap from the connecting
rod. (9) Liberally lubricate the piston assembly and
install the piston ring compressor to number one
piston.
NOTE: When installing the pistons to the

cylinder ensure that the front marking on
the piston is towards the front of the engine.

(10) Turn the crankshaft until number one crank-
pin is at the bottom of its stroke. (11) Install number one piston and connecting
rod
assembly into its bore. Push the assembly down the
bore until the connecting rod can be aligned with
number one crankpin.
NOTE: The bearing shells should be lubri-
cated with engine oil before installation.

(12) Install the connecting rod cap and tighten
the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.

NOTE: If new bearing shells were installed,
check the bearing clearance with Plastigage
as previously described.

(13) With the bearing clearance as specified, in-
stal the remaining pistons in the same manner.
(14) Ensure that the crankshaft turns without
binding.
(15) With all connecting rod bolts tightened to
the specified torque, install the associated
components
by referring to the relevant headings in this section.
11. CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS

Special Equipment Required:
To Inspect — Micrometer, Vee blocks, dial gauge
TO REMOVE
(1) With the engine assembly removed from the
vehicle and the transaxle separated from the engine,
refer to the appropriate headings or sections and
remove the following components: sump, oil pump
pickup pipe, oil pump, and flywheel or drive plate. (2) Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal from the



Using a ring compressor to install the piston.
Checking the crankshaft end float using feeler gauges.

Engine


Main bearing cap removed showing the location of the rear seal and sealant grooves.
until the sealant appears at the inner, lower edge of the
bearing cap to cylinder block joint. Install the bearing
cap bolts and tighten to the specified torque.

(5) Tighten the remaining main bearing cap
bolts and the connecting rod cap bolts to their
respective tensions and rotate the crankshaft to check
for binding. (6) Install the crankshaft oil seal to the end of the
crankshaft after applying lithium grease to the lip of
the oil seal. Ensure that the l i p of the seal is facing
towards the engine.
(7) Install the remainder of the engine compo-
nents by referring to the relevant headings in this
section.
TO RENEW MAIN BEARINGS -
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED

(1) Remove the automatic transaxle or manual
transaxle as described in the appropriate section.

(2) Remove the flywheel/drive plate as outlined
under the Flywheel/Drive Plate heading. (3) Remove the engine sump and oil pump
pickup pipe as previously described. (4) Ensure that the main bearing caps are num-
bered to ensure correct assembly. (5) Remove the main bearing cap bolts and
remove the bearing cap and half shell of the bearing to
be renewed. Thoroughly clean the bearing cap in
solvent. (6) Where necessary, use the Plastigage method
to measure the bearing clearance.
(7) Position a piece of Plastigage the approxi-
mate length of the bearing width, across the bearing
shell in the cap and tigh ten the cap bolts to the
specified torque. Do not rotate the crankshaft. (8) Remove the bearing cap and measure the
spread width of the Plastigage with the scale on the
packet to determine the main bearing clearance.
Compare the measurement to the Specifications and if
the bearing clearance exceeds the limit, install a new
set of bearing shells.
NOTE: Renew one bearing at a time, leav-
ing the others securely attached.

(9) Install a brass rivet in the crankshaft journal
oil drilling and rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise
direction until the head of the rivet contacts the plain
edge of the upper bearing shell. (10) Continue to rotate the crankshaft to carry
the upper half of the bearing shell out of the crank-
case.
(11) Select a half shell of the required thickness
(standard or undersize), coat it liberally with clean
engine oil and start it, plai n edge first, into position on
the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that the rivet contacts the locating lug edge of the
bearing shell, carrying it into position in the crankcase
above the main bearing journal. Slightly reverse the
rotation of the crankshaft and remove the rivet from
the oil drilling in the crankshaft. (12) Place the other half shell of the selected
bearing shells in the bear ing cap. checking the clear-
ance as detailed in operations (7) and (8).
NOTE: By checking the taper on the plas-
tigage any taper of the bearing journal can
be calculated.

(13) When the bearing has been correctly selected
to give the specified clearance, tighten the cap bolts to
the specified torque. (14) Use the same method to renew the other
main bearings. (15) When renewing the rear main bearings, re-
move and discard the rear crankshaft oil seal. (16) Install the rear main bearing cap into position
and inject KP510-00150 sealant or equivalent into the
grooves in the sides of the rear bearing cap. Fill the
grooves until the sealant a ppears at the inner lower
View showing the numbering and correct location of
the main bearing caps.