weight NISSAN PULSAR 1987 Workshop Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: NISSAN, Model Year: 1987, Model line: PULSAR, Model: NISSAN PULSAR 1987Pages: 238, PDF Size: 28.91 MB
Page 10 of 238
10 General Information
If tools are to be stored for any length of time, it is
good policy to wipe them with an oily cloth.
Bladed screwdrivers should be checked for dam-
age to the tip. If necessary, the tip can be returned to
its original profile by careful grinding. Do not grind
screwdriver tips to a sharp point.
Hammer heads should be secure on their handles
and should be regularly checked for cracking or other
damage.
Chisels and punches should be checked for dam-
age or 'mushrooming' of the head. Any faults should
be rectified by grinding.
Hydraulic jacks should be regularly checked for
fluid leaks. Chassis stands and car ramps should be
checked for damage and cracks. Any equipment that
is suspect should not be used.
STORES
For routine maintenance, stores of automotive
oils, greases and additives should be kept on hand.
The following is a suggested list.
Engine oil.
Brake fluid.
Manual transmission or automatic transmission
oil — automatic transmission oil is also used in
the power steering system.
Rear axle oil.
Cooling system corrosion inhibitor/antifreeze.
Chassis grease.
High melting point grease, for hub bearings etc.
Penetrating oil or spray.
Kerosene or similar cleaning solvent.
Methylated spirits.
Oils and greases are available in handy pack size for
do-it-yourself lube jobs.
2. SAFETY
PERSONAL SAFETY
Safety when working on a motor vehicle is basical-
ly a matter of commonsense. Some safety precautions
to prevent personal in juries are as follows.
Raising a Vehicle
Always jack a vehicle on firm, level ground and at
the specified jacking points . Ensure that the wheels
remaining on the ground are fully chocked.
After raising the vehicle, place chassis stands
underneath and allow the weight of the vehicle to rest
on them. Do not use bricks, blocks of wood or similar
material.
NOTE: Never work under a vehicle which is
only supported by a jack.
Electrical System
Always disconnect the negative battery terminal
when working on any electrical components. Avoid
wearing metal watches, rings and chains which may
short across live terminals.
As battery gases are explosive, keep naked flames
and sparks clear of the work area. When connecting
and disconnecting jumper leads, use extreme caution
to avoid sparking.
Electronic Ignition Systems
Electronic ignition systems produce dangerous
high tension voltages in bo th the primary and second-
ary circuits which can be fatal. Exercise extreme
caution when working on or near any ignition system
components. Do not disconnect high tension leads
while the engine is running.
Work Area
Do not run the engine in a confined space. Ensure
that the work area is adequately ventilated.
Spilt oil or water should be cleaned immediately
to avoid the possibility of slipping.
Fuel System
Always disconnect the negative battery terminal
when working on any fuel components. Do not smoke.
Keep naked flames and sparks clear of the work area.
Do not siphon fuel using the mouth. Use a hand
pump or suitable siphon.
Do not attempt to repair a fuel tank by welding it.
This is an extremely hazardous procedure and should
be entrusted to a specialist.
Cooling System
To avoid scalding, use caution when releasing the
radiator cap on an engine wh ich is at normal operating
temperature. Turn the cap anti-clockwise to the first
stop and allow any pressure in the system to release.
When the pressure is released, remove the cap from
the radiator.
Brakes
As asbestos is used in some brake lining material,
avoid inhaling brake dust. Do not use compressed air
to remove the dust. Gentle brushing with a small
brush or using a vacuum cleaner with a hose attach-
ment are the safest methods of cleaning the brakes.
The above precautions also apply to the clutch plate
lining material.
Page 38 of 238
38 Engine
*Piston skirt to cylinder bore clearance:
1.6 liter .....................................0. 020-0.040 mm
1.8 liter .....................................0. 010-0.030 mm
Gudgeon pin length:
1.6 liter ...................................................... 53 mm
1.8 liter .................................................. 61.5 mm
Gudgeon pin diameter.................20.990-20.995 mm
Gudgeon pin clearance in piston:
1.6 liter .....................................0. 010-0.020 mm
1.8 liter ..................................0. 0055-0.0115 mm
Gudgeon pin offset in piston:
1.6 liter......... 0.35-0.65 mm towards thrust side
1.8 liter................... 0.8 mm towards thrust side
*Measured 9 mm from the bottom of the piston skirt
for 1.6 liter models and 6 mm from the bottom of the
piston skirt for 1.8 liter models.
PISTON RINGS
Rings per piston:
Compression .......................................................2
Oil contro l .......................................................... 1
End gap:
Compression ................................ 0.30-0.50 mm
Oil control —
1.6 liter ......................................... 0.33-1.10 mm
1.8 liter ......................................... 0.40-1.40 mm
CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS
Connecting rod side clearance............ 0.07-0.24 mm
Maximum connecting rod weight variation..8 grams
Crankpin bearing oil clearance ....... 0. 019-0.063 mm
CRANKSHAFT AND MAIN BEARINGS
Number of bearings .................................................. 5
End float taken at ...................... No. 3 main bearing
End float .......................................... 0.070-0.302 mm
Bend limit ...................................................0.03 mm
Main bearing oil clearance .............0. 015-0.040 mm
Main bearing journal diameter.. .57.982-57.995 mm
Crankpin diameter .......................48.971-48.987 mm
FLYWHEEL
Ring gear run out limit.................................. 0.3 mm
Clutch face regrind limit .............................. 0.3 mm
CAMSHAFT
Drive ...................................................... Toothed belt
End float .............................................. 0.04-0.14 mm
Bend limit ................................................... 0.03 mm
Bearings ...........................................Direct in housing
Journal diameter:
Standard —
No. 1 ..................................... 42. 455-42.470 mm
No. 2 ..................................... 42. 705-42.720 mm
No. 3 ..................................... 42.955-42.970 mm
No. 4 ..................................... 43.205-43.220 mm
No. 5 ..................................... 43.455-43.470 mm
Undersize —
No. 1 .....................................42.355-42.370 mm
No. 2 ......................................42.605-42.620 mm
No. 3 .....................................42.855-42.880 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.105-43.120 mm
No. 5 .....................................43. 355-43.370 mm
*An undersize camshaft can be identified by a violet
flash between the inlet and exhaust lobes of No. 2
cylinder.
Housing diameter;
Standard —
No. 1 .....................................42. 500-42.525 mm
No. 2 .....................................42.750-42.775 mm
No. 3 .....................................43.000-43.025 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.250-43.275 mm
No. 5 .....................................43.500-43.525 mm
*Undersize —
No. 1 .....................................42.400-42.425 mm
No. 2 .....................................42.650-42.675 mm
No. 3 .....................................42.900-42.925 mm
No. 4 ......................................43.150-43.175 mm
No. 5 .....................................43.400-43.425 mm
*An undersize camshaft housing can be identified by
a violet flash on the centre camshaft bearing support.
LUBRICATION
Oil pump type .......................................Involute gear
Filter type................................... Full flow disposable
Oil pressure at 4 000 rpm .....................480-620 kPa
Rotor assembly end float .................. 0.03-0. 010 mm
Rotor teeth backlash ......................... 0.010-0.20 mm
TORQUE WRENCH SETTINGS
*Cylinder head bolts:
Initial torque ............................................. 25 Nm
1st stage ......................................... + 60 degrees
2nd stage ........................................ + 60 degrees
3rd stage......................................... + 60 degrees
4th stage, engine at operating
temperature .............................. + 30-50 degrees
Exhaust manifold nuts .................................... 22 Nm
Exhaust manifold flange nuts ......................... 22 Nm
Inlet manifold nuts.......................................... 22 Nm
Throttle body to inlet manifold nuts ..............12 Nm
Camshaft liming gear bolt ...............................45 Nm
Camshaft retainin g plate bolts ......................... 7 Nm
Camshaft cover bolts......................................... 8 Nm
Thermostat cover bolts ....................................15 Nm
*Main bearing bolts..................60 Nm + 45 degrees
Connecting rod bearing
cap nuts ................................... 35 Nm + 45 degrees
* Crankshaft timing
gear bolt.................................. 145 Nm + 35 degrees
*Flywheel bolts
(microencapsulated) ................ 60 Nm + 30 degrees
*Drive plate bolts (microencapsulated)........... 60 Nm
Water pump bolts............................................ 25 Nm
Page 43 of 238
Engine 43
CAMSHAFT HOUSING TOP COVER
Front view of the 1.8 liter engine and automatic transaxle assembly removed from the vehicle.
release the driveshafts from the transaxle. Tie the
driveshafts to the underbody of the vehicle using wire
and ensuring that excessive st rain is not placed on the
joints.
NOTE: If the driveshafts will not release
from the transaxle, a lever can be used
between the driveshaft and the transaxle.
Care must be taken when using the lever not
to damage the transaxle oil seals.
(26) Remove the engine pipe from the engine.
Refer to the procedure at the end of this section if
necessary.
(27) Remove the engine crossmember retaining
bolts and nuts and remove the crossmember from
beneath the vehicle. (28) Attach the lifting tackle to the engine and
raise the engine slightly to take the weight off the
engine mountings. (29) Remove the front, rear, left and right engine
mounting bolts and nuts. Withdraw the mountings
from the engine compartment. (30) Slowly lower the engine and transaxle assem-
bly from the engine compartment. On air conditioned vehicles, remove the air
conditioning compressor an d hoses after the engine
has been lowered slightly. Secure the compressor to
one side, clear of the work area, with wire or similar.
NOTE: Do not disconnect the hoses from
the air conditioning compressor. Escaping
refrigerant can cause frostbite and eye dam-
age.
( 3 1 ) Lower the engine and transaxle assembly
onto a suitable trolley and maneuver the engine from
beneath the vehicle.
TO INSTAL
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Position the engine and transaxle assembly
beneath the front of the vehicle.
(2) Install the lifting tackle and raise the engine
assembly into position in the engine compartment.
NOTE: On air conditioned models, ensure
that the air conditioning compressor is in-
stalled to the engine as the engine is in-
stalled to the engine compartment.
(3) Install the engine and transaxle
assembly
mounting nuts, bolts and washers finger tight before
the full weight of the assembly is taken by the
Page 58 of 238
58 Engine
TO INSPECT PISTONS AND CONNECTING
RODS
(1) Remove all carbon deposits from the bottom
of the ring grooves with a ring groove cleaning tool or
a broken ring. Use caution to avoid scoring the
bottom and sides of the ring groove.
NOTE; An ideal method of removing carbon
deposits from pistons is to immerse the
piston in a tank of chemical cleaner. After
soaking, the carbon can be readily hosed off
with water. This method minimizes the
chance of damage through scraping, particu-
larly with aluminum alloy components.
(2) Inspect the pistons for sc uff marks, scoring or
burning. (3) Inspect the ring grooves of the pistons for
excessive wear. Using a new piston ring, check the
clearances between the side of the ring and the ring
lands of the piston with feeler gauges. Compare the
side clearance with the Specifications. (4) Inspect each pair of bearing shells for wear
especially on an outer edge. If one or more pairs of
bearing shells are worn on the outer edge it is possible
that the connecting rod is bent. (5) Before renewing a piston or connecting rod,
inspect the cylinder block to see if it requires reboring
or honing.
If the cylinder block requires reboring, new over-
size pistons will have to be installed.
(6) If a piston or connecting rod is to be
renewed, a special tool wi ll be required to press the
gudgeon pin from the connecting rod. To install the
piston and gudgeon pin to the connecting rod, the
gudgeon pin boss must be accurately heated to 280
degrees C before the gudgeon pin can be inserted in
the little end of the connecting rod.
Replacement connecting rods are supplied only at
their highest production weight and must be matched
to the weight of the remaining connecting rods by
filing the big end boss. For these reasons it is
recommended that the work be entrusted to a repu-
table engine reconditioner w ho will have the special-
ised equipment and knowledge to carry out this work.
TO INSPECT CYLINDER BLOCK AND BORES
With the pistons removed as previously de-
scribed, carry out the following checks and measuring
procedures:
(1) Check the cylinder bores for cracks, scores or
scuffs.
Check for cylinder bore wear. Difference between A
and B measurement at top of piston travel is out of
round dimension. Difference between A at top and at
bottom of piston travel is cylinder taper.
(2) Using an accurate cylinder gauge, measure
each cylinder bore for wear. Take the measurements,
at the upper and lower sections of the bore in two
directions — along and across the cylinder block.
Refer to the illustration.
(3) If the wear in any cylinder exceeds the
specified limit, rebore and hone all the cylinders to the
nearest oversize for pistons and rings. (4) With a straight edge and feeler gauge, check
the top face of the cylinder block for distortion, using
the same procedure described for the cylinder head.
STRAIGHT EDGE
Measuring the piston ring side clearance.
Checking the cylinder block face for distortion.
Page 65 of 238
Engine 65
(4) Hold the nut and remove the mounting
through bolt. (5) Remove the bolts retaining the mounting to
the transaxle and maneuver the mounting from the
engine compartment. (6) If necessary remove the bolts retaining the
support bracket to the inner mudguard and withdraw
the support bracket. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
ensuring that the weight of the engine is bearing on
the engine mounting before tightening the through
bolt securely.
TO RENEW RIGHT HAND SIDE MOUNTING
(1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
(2) On 1.8 liter models, remove the air cleaner
assembly. Refer to the Fuel and Engine Management
section if necessary. (3) Support the engine under the sump using a
jack. Interpose a block of wood between the head of
the jack and the sump to prevent damage.
(4) Hold the nut and remove the mounting
through bolt and rubber. (5) Remove the bolts retain ing the mounting to
the inner mudguard and maneuver the mounting
from the engine compartment. (6) If necessary, remove the nuts and bolts
retaining the support brackets to the engine assembly
and withdraw the support brackets.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
ensuring that the weight of the engine is bearing on
the engine mounting before tightening the through
bolt securely.
TO RENEW FRONT TORQUE DAMPER
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle, remove the
splash guard fasteners and remove the splash guard(s)
from the front of the vehicle.
(2) Remove the through bolts and nuts from the
torque damper.
NOTE: It may be necessary to unclip the
wiring harness from the lower radiator sup-
port panel to gain access to the front through
bolt.
Dismantled view of the front torque damper. The arrow of the engine bracket must face upwards.
(3) Withdraw the torque damper from the
engine.
(4) If necessary the support brackets can be
removed. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
ensuring that the arrow on the engine bracket faces
upwards.
TO RENEW REAR ENGINE MOUNTING AND
TORQUE DAMPER
Automatic and manual transaxle models both use
a similar rear engine moun ting with different support
brackets. Manual transaxle models use a rear torque
damper.
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands. (2) Remove the stabilizer bar mounting bracket
bolts and allow the rear of the stabilizer bar to hang
down slightly. (3) Remove the nuts and bolts retaining the
engine crossmember to the vehicle underbody and
withdraw the crossmember from the vehicle.
Dismantled view of the right hand side engine mount-
ing assembly.
Page 145 of 238
145
STEERING
PART 1. STEERING TROUBLE SHOOTING
FAULTS, CAUSES AND REMEDIES
EXCESSIVE PLAY OR LOOSENESS IN
STEERING GEAR
(1) Tie rod end ball joint loose or worn: Tighten
or renew the worn tie rod end ball joint. (2) Steering gear assembly loose on cross-
member: Inspect for damage and tighten the steering
gear mounting bolts. (3) Steering gear worn: Overhaul the steering
gear.
(2) Low fluid level in the power steering reser-
voir: Check for leakage, repa ir and/or renew the faulty
components. Top up the fluid level.
(3) Suspension worn or out of alignment: Check
the front suspension for wear, renew the worn com-
ponents and realign. (4) Misalignment between the steering gear and
column mountings: Check and align the steering gear
and column mountings. (5) Binding in the steering shaft universal coup-
ling joints: Check the join ts and renew if necessary.
(6) Ingress of dirt into the steering gear due to a
defective boot: Clean, check and lubricate the internal
components of the steering gear and renew the
defective boot. (7) Insufficient power steering pump pressure:
Check the pump drive belt tension and reservoir fluid
level. If necessary renew the pump assembly.
NOTE: Ensure that both front tires have
ample depth of tread and are inflated to the
correct pressure. Check the front suspension
components for wear before having the steer-
ing geometry checked. See the Front Sus-
pension section for the component checking
procedures.
Check the tie rod ends for wear and the rubber boots for deterioration.
(4) Worn front hub bearings: Check the condi-
tion and renew the front hub bearings. (5) Worn or damaged front suspension control
arm bushes: Renew the control arm or bushes.
NOTE: Looseness in th e steering linkage is
best assessed with the weight of the vehicle
on the front wheels. Have an assistant turn
the steering wheel from left to right while the
inspection for wear is being made. If loose-
ness is found to be in the steering gear, it
will be necessary to overhaul the steering
gear assembly.
HEAVY STEERING
(1) Low or uneven tir e pressures: Check the
tires and inflate to the recommended pressures.
Checking the steering rack boot s for splits and deteri-
oration.
Page 162 of 238
162 Front Suspension
the ball joint or bushes as described later in this
section.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) When installing the control arm bush
bracket, ensure that the protrusion on the bracket is
towards the inside of the vehicle.
(2) Do not fully tighten the control arm bush
bolts and through bolt nut until the curb weight of the
vehicle is on the suspension.
NOTE: Curb weight is with the vehicle
unladen except for a full tank of fuel and
normal amounts of oil and water and with
the spare lyre, jack and hand tools in their
normal positions.
(3) Tighten the ball joint nut to the specified
torque and retain with a new split pin.
TO CHECK AND RENEW BALL JOINT
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described.
(2) Install the ball joint nut and turn the ball
joint at least ten revolutions to ensure that the ball
joint is correctly seated. (3) Using a spring scale with the hook placed
over the split pin hole, check the ball joint swinging
torque. A new ball joint should measure 15.7-80.4 N
and a used ball joint should measure 7.8-80.4 N.
Renew the ball joint if necessary. (4) Using a small torque wrench or preload
gauge, measure the force requi red to rotate the ball
joint. A new ball joint should measure between
1.0-4.9 Nm and a used ball joint should measure
between 0.5-4.9 Nm. Renew the ball joint if neces-
sary.
(5) To renew the ball joint, remove the snap ring
from the stud end of the ball joint using snap ring
pliers. (6) Support the control arm in a press, ball joint
stud uppermost, with a suitable tube that is large
enough for the ball joint to pass through. (7) Press the ball joint out from the control arm.
(8) Press a new ball joint into the control arm
using a suitable tube that pushes on the outer circum-
ference of the joint only.
(9) Install the snap ring and install the
control
arm to the vehicle as previously described.
TO RENEW CONTROL ARM BUSHES
(1) Remove the control arm from the vehicle as
previously described. Mark the position of the rear
control arm bush. (2) To remove the rear control arm bush use a
bearing puller and a press. When installing the bush
use a suitable tube that pushes on the inner edge of the
bush only. NOTE: Ensure that the bush is installed
with the flat portion in its original location.
(3)
To remove the front control arm bush use a
suitable tube that pushes on the outer circumference
of the bush and a split tu be supporting the control
arm. (4) After the bush has been pressed out approx-
imately half way, cut the protruding part of the bush
using a hacksaw. Cutting the bush in this way will
allow removal.
(5) Support the control arm and push the new
bush in from the outside using a suitable tube that
pushes on the outer circumference only. (6) Install the control ar m to the vehicle as
previously described.
6. STABILISER BAR
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands.
(2) Remove the bolts at the flexible joint retain-
ing the front engine pipe to the exhaust pipe located
below the stabilizer bar. (3) Remove the bolt from the exhaust pipe
mounting below the stabilizer bar. Disconnect the
exhaust pipe at the flexible joint and allow the front of
the pipe to hang down. (4) Remove the stabilizer bar bracket retaining
bolts and remove the stabilizer bar brackets from the
vehicle. (5) Remove the stabilizer bar lower link nuts
from each control arm. When removing the lower nuts
it may be necessary to hold the upper nuts with a
spanner.
(6) Maneuver the stabilizer bar from the
vehicle.
Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Ensure that the stabilizer bar mounting rub-
bers are in a serviceable condition and secure in the
mounting brackets.
Dismantled view of one end of the stabilizer bar.
Page 167 of 238
Rear Suspension 167
NOTE: When a wheel bearing has been
removed from the hub it must be renewed.
(5) Press the new bearing into the hub, ensuring
that pressure is not exerted on the inner race of the
bearing and that the bearin g seal is not damaged. Do
not apply grease or oil to the mating surfaces of the
bearing and the hub.
NOTE: When installing the new bearing,
the press load must not exceed 3 tonnes.
(6) Inspect the snap ring for wear or cracks and
renew as necessary. Install the snap ring into the hub
ensuring that it is secur ely located in the groove.
(7) Apply multi-purpose grease to the bearing
sealing lip and install the hub as previously described.
4. SUSPENSION UNIT
Special Equipment Required:
To Dismantle — Spring compressor
TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE
(1) On hatchback models, remove the rear par-
cel shelf and lower the rear seat backrests. Remove the
parcel shelf side panel re taining screws and remove
the relevant side panel.
(2) On sedan models, prise out the parcel shelf
retaining buttons using a suitable instrument and
withdraw the parcel shelf from the vehicle. If the rear
radio speakers are installed, remove the speaker grille
retaining screws and separate the speaker grilles from
the speakers prior to withdrawing the parcel shelf
from the vehicle. (3) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands as describe d in the Wheels and Tires
section. Remove the rear wheel from the vehicle.
View of the suspension unit with the spring compres-
sors installed.
(4) Remove the clip securing the brake hose to
the suspension unit and disengage the hose from the
suspension unit. (5) Support the weight of the knuckle assembly
and remove the bolts and nuts securing the suspension
unit to the knuckle assembly.
(6) Remove the nuts securing the suspension
unit to the body panel and maneuver the suspension
unit from the vehicle. (7) Thoroughly clean the suspension unit and
secure it in a soft jawed vice.
(8) Remove the dust cap from the upper mount-
ing and while holding the end of the piston rod with
an adjustable spanner, loosen the upper mounting
retaining nut. Do not re move the retaining nut.
(9) Using a suitable spring compressor, com-
press the coil spring and remove the upper mounting
retaining nut and washer. (10) Remove the upper mounting, insulator and
spring seat from th e suspension unit.
(11) Withdraw the upper insulator, coil spring,
lower insulator and dust cover from the suspension
unit. (12) Check the coil spring for cracks, deformation
and damage. Compare the free length with a new coil
spring and renew as necessary.
Location of the suspension unit retaining nuts. Hatch-
back model.
Page 169 of 238
Rear Suspension 169
5. CONTROL ARM
Special Equipment Required:
To Renew Control Arm Bush — Press and suitable
removal tool
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands as describe d in the Wheels and Tires
section.
(2) Suitably mark the front and rear control
arms to ensure installation to the original locations.
NOTE: The front and rear control arms are
identical in appearance, however, on models
manufactured prior to March 1988 the
compound of the rubber bushes differ.
(3) Remove the nut and bolt securing the control
arms to the knuckle assembly.
(4) Suitably mark the rear inner pivot bolt cams
in relation to the crossmember to ensure correct
installation.
(5) Remove the rear control arm inner pivot
bolt, adjusting cam, nut and control arm from the
vehicle. (6) Remove the front control arm inner pivot
bolt, washer, nut and control arm from the vehicle.
(7) Inspect the control arm bushes for wear,
cracks and deterioration and renew as necessary. (8) Inspect the control arms for cracks, damage
and distortion and renew as necessary.
(9) Inspect the pivot bolts for damage and renew
as necessary. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Install the control arms to the original
loca-
tions, ensuring that the inner pivot bolts are installed
from the front of the crossmember.
(2) Align the marks on the rear inner pivot bolt
Dismantled view of the control arms and associated
components. Disc brake model.
cams and the crossmember that were made prior to
removal. Install the inner pivot bolt nuts but do not
tighten.
(3) Install the bolt that secures the control arms
to the knuckle assembly and tighten the nut finger
tight. (4) Lower the vehicle to the ground. With the
weight of the vehicle on th e rear wheels, ensure that
the marks on the inner pivot bolt cams and the
crossmember are aligned. (5) Tighten the inner and outer control arm
bolts and nuts to the specified torque. (6) Check and if necessary adjust the rear wheel
alignment. Refer to the Re ar Wheel Alignment head-
ing in this section.
TO RENEW CONTROL ARM BUSH
(1) Remove the control arm as previously de-
scribed. (2) Using a press and press plates or a bush
removal tool, remove the bush from the control arm.
NOTE: If a press or bush removal tool is not
available, a simple alternative can be made
using a long bolt, large and small washers, a
nut and a tubular spacer. This method is
illustrated in the General Information sec-
tion under the General Repair Procedures
heading.
(3) Install a new bush to the control arm
ensuring
that it is pressed squarely into the control arm. When
installed, the bush should be equidistant from either
end of the control arm bore. (4) Install the control arm as previously de-
scribed.
Ensure that the cam and the crossmember are suitably
marked prior to loosening the nut.
Page 170 of 238
170 Rear Suspension
6. KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Remove the rear hub as previously de-
scribed.
(2) On drum brake models, disconnect the brake
pipe from the wheel cylinder and plug the cylinder
and brake pipe apertures to prevent the loss of brake
fluid and the entry of dirt. (3) Remove the backing plate retaining bolts and
remove the backing plate from the knuckle assembly. (4) Remove the nut and bolt securing the control
arms to the knuckle assembly. (5) Remove the bolts and nuts securing the
suspension unit to the knuckle assembly. (6) Remove the nut, washers and bush securing
the stabilizer bar to the knuckle assembly, rotate the
knuckle assembly and remove it from the stabilizer
bar. (7) Carefully clean the knuckle assembly. Do not
immerse the rubber bush in solvent as damage will
occur.
(8) Check the knuckle assembly for wear, cracks
and damage. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure
with attention to the following points:
(1) Install the knuckle assembly onto the stabi-
liser bar, maneuver it into position with the suspen-
sion unit and install the retaining bolts and nuts.
Tighten the bolts and nuts to the specified torque.
(2) Install the control arms to the knuckle
assem-
bly and install the retaining bolt and nut. Do
not
tighten the retaining bolt and nut at this stage. (3) Install the bush, washers and retaining nut to
the stabilizer bar. Do not tighten the retaining nut at
this stage. (4) Install the backing plate to the knuckle as-
sembly and tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
(5) On drum brake models, connect the brake
pipe to the wheel cylinder and tighten the flare nut
securely.
(6) Install the rear hub as previously described.
(7) On drum brake models, bleed the brake
hydraulic system as described in the Brakes section.
(8) With the weight of the vehicle on the road
wheels, tighten the control arms retaining bolt and nut
and the stabilizer bar retaining nut to the specified
torque. (9) Check and if necessary adjust the rear wheel
alignment. Refer to the Re ar Wheel Alignment head-
ing in this section.
7. STABILISER BAR
TO REMOVE AND INSTAL
(1) Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it
on chassis stands as describe d in the Wheels and Tires
section. Remove the rear wheels.
(2) Remove the nut. washer and bush retaining
the stabilizer bar to each knuckle assembly. (3) Remove the bolts retain ing the intermediate
exhaust pipe to the rear of the catalytic converter,
remove the bolt securing the exhaust mounting to the
underbody and slightly lower the intermediate exhaust
pipe. Support the intermediate pipe to prevent the
tailpipe contacting the lower bumper panel. (4) Remove the bolts retaining the stabilizer bar
mounting brackets to the underbody and withdraw
the stabilizer ba r from each knuckle assembly. Ma-
noeuvre the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
(5) Remove the mounting rubbers from the
stabilizer bar and the rubber bush and spacer from
each knuckle assembly. (6) Inspect the stabilizer bar for cracks and
damage and renew as necessary. (7) Inspect the stabilizer bar mounting brackets
for wear and damage and renew as necessary. (8) Inspect the mounting rubbers, the rubber
bushes and spacers for wear and deterioration and
renew as necessary.
View of the knuckle assembly removed from the
vehicle. Disc brake model. View of the stabilizer bar mounting bracket and rubber
removed from the stabilizer bar.