towing OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA 1994 User Guide

Your Driving and the Road
Turn Signals When Towing a
Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has
to have a different turn signal flasher
and extra wiring. The green arrows on
your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane
change. Properly hooked up, the trailer
lights will also flash, telling other
drivers you’re about to turn, change
lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the green arrows
on your instrument panel will flash for
turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your
signal when they are not, It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the
trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear
before you start down a long or steep
downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you
might have to use your brakes
so much
that they would get hot and no longer
work well. On
a long uphill grade, shift down and
reduce your speed
to around 45 mph
(70 km/h) to reduce the possibility of
engine and transmission overheating.
If you are towing a trailer that weighs
more than
3,000 pounds (1 350 kg), it’s
best to drive in
D instead of Overdrive
(or, as you need to, a lower gear). This
will minimize heat build-up and extend
the life of your transmission.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle,
with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If
something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured,
and both your vehicle and the trailer
can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on
a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t
shift into
P (Park) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under
the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place,
release the regular brakes until the
chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then
apply your parking brake and then
shift to
P (Park).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave
After Parking on
a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold
the pedal down while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear
4. Stop and have someone pick up and
of
the chocks.
store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more
often when you’re pulling a trailer. See
the Maintenance Schedule for more on
this. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt,
cooling system, and brake adjustment.
Each of these is covered in this manual,
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Here you’ll find what to do about some
problems that can occur on the road
.
Part 5
Problems on the Road
Hazard Warning Flashers ........................................................................\
............... 140
Jump Starting ........................................................................\
.................................. 140
Towing Your Bravada ........................................................................\
..................... 144
Engine Overheating ........................................................................\
......................... 145
If a Tire Goes Flat ........................................................................\
........................... 151
Changing a Flat Tire ........................................................................\
........................ 151
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow ......................................................... 158
0
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Problems on the Road
144
Towing Your Bravada
Try to have a GM dealer or a
professional towing service tow your
vehicle. The usual towing equipment is:
(A) Sling-type tow truck
(B) Wheel-lift tow truck
(C) Car carrier
If your vehicle has been changed or
modified since it was factory-new by
adding aftermarket items like aero
skirting or special tires and wheels,
these instructions may not be correct.
Before you do anything, turn on the
hazard warning flashers.
NOTICE:
Dollies must be used on ground
wheels or vehicle damage will occur.
When you call, tell the towing service:
That your vehicle has all-wheel drive
and cannot be towed with any wheels
in contact with the ground. Your
vehicle requires dollies with sling-type
or wheel-lift equipment, or a car
carrier.
The make, model, and year of your
vehicle.
Whether you can still move the shift
lever.
If there was an accident, what was
damaged.
When the towing service arrives, let the
tow operator how that this manual
contains towing instructions. The
operator may want to see them.
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When your vehicle is being towed, have
the ignition key off. The steering wheel
should be clamped in a straight-ahead
position, with a clamping device
designed for towing service.
Do not use
the vehicle’s steering column lock for
this. The transmission should be in
P (Park) and the parking brake
released.
Don’t have your Bravada towed with
the wheels in contact with the ground.
If your vehicle is being towed with
sling-type or wheel-lift equipment,
either the front or rear wheels must be
supported on a dolly.
If towing your Bravada with a car
carrier, block supports may be required
to prevent damage to the vehicle.
Engine Overheating
You will find a coolant temperature
;age and the warning light about
a hot
mgine on your Oldsmobile’s instrument
)anel.
If Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
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Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine
cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday
driving conditions the clutch is not
engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or
high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases when the clutch engages.
So
you may hear an increase in fan noise.
This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or
making extra shifts. It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages. You may also hear this fan
noise when you start the engine. It will
go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
I Ifa Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out”
while you’re driving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever
have a “blowout,” here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire
will
create a drag that pulls the vehicle
toward that side. Take your foot
off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering
wheel firmly. Steer to maintain lane
position, then gently brake to a stop
well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve,
acts much like a skid and may require
the same correction you’d use in a skid.
In any rear blowout, remove your foot
from the accelerator pedal. Get the
vehicle under control by steering the
way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can
still steer. Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road if possible.
If a tire goes
flat, the next section shows
how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
I Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and
wheel damage by driving slowly to a
level place. Turn
on your hazard
warning flashers.
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NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy
parts
of your vehicle as well as the
tires.
If you spin the wheels too fast
while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy
your transmission.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get it Out:
First, turn your steering wheel left and
right. That will clear the area around
your front wheels. Then shift back and
forth between
R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as
little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly
on the accelerator pedal when the
transmission
is in gear. If that doesn’t
get you out after a few tries, you may
need
to be towed out. If you do need to
be towed out, see
Towing Your Truck
in the Index.
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Fuel
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at
87 octane or higher. Use premium
unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or
higher for high power performance,
when towing a trailer or with a high
payload requirement. But when
operating with a light load as
a normal
condition, you may use middle grade or
regular unleaded gasolines.
The gasoline you use should meet
specifications ASTM D4814 in the U.S.
and CGSB
3.5-92 in Canada. These
fuels should have the proper additives,
so you should not have to add anything
to the fuel.
In the
U.S. and Canada, it’s easy to be
sure you get the right kind of gasoline
(unleaded). You’ll see “UNLEADED” right
on the pump. And only unleaded
nozzles will fit into your vehicle’s filler
neck.
Be sure the posted octane is at least 91
for premium, 89 for middle grade and
87 for regular.
If the octane is less than
87, you may get a heavy knocking noise
when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it
can damage your engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at 91 octane or
higher and you still hear heavy
knocking, your engine needs service.
But don’t worry
if you hear a little
pinging noise when you’re accelerating
or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and
you don’t have to buy a higher octane
fuel to get rid of it. It’s the heavy,
constant knock that means you have a
problem.
What about gasoline with blending
materials that contain oxygen
(oxygenates), such as MTBE or
alcohol?
MTBE is “methyl tertiary-butyl ether.”
Fuel that
is no more than 15% MTBE is
fine for your vehicle.
Ethanol is ethyl or grain alcohol.
Properly-blended fuel that is no more than
10% ethanol is
fine for your
vehicle.
Methanol is methyl or wood alcohol.
NOTICE:
Fuel that is more than 5%
methanol is bad for your vehicle.
Don’t use it. It can corrode metal
parts in your fuel system and also
damage plastic and rubber parts.
That damage wouldn’t be covered
under your warranty. And even at
5% or less, there must be
“cosolvents” and corrosion
preventers in this fuel to help avoid
these problems.
GasoUnes for Cleaner Air
Your use of gasoline with deposit
control additives will help prevent
deposits from forming in your engine
and fuel system. That helps keep your
engine in tune and your emission
control system working properly. It’s
good for your vehicle, and you’ll be
doing your part for cleaner air.
Many gasolines are now blended with
oxygenates. General Motors
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Maintenance Schedule
206
Schedule I
Follow Schedule I if your vehicle is
MAINLY driven under one or more of
the following conditions:
When most trips are less than 4 miles
When most trips are less than 10
(6 lun) .
miles (16 lm) and outside
temperatures remain below freezing.
When most trips include extended
idling and/or frequent low-speed
operation, as in stop-and-go traffic.
When towing a trailer.
When operating in dusty areas or off-
Schedule I should also be followed if
the vehicle is used for delivery service,
police, taxi or other commercial
applications.
road frequently.
ITEM TO BE SERVICED
Nom See Explanation of Scheduled Maintenance
Services
following Schedules I and 11.
WHEN TO PERFORM
Miles (kilometers) or Months
(whichever occurs first).
2 1 Chassis Lubrication 1 Everv 3.000 Miles (5 000 kml or 12 Months. I
4 I Engine Accessory Drive Belt Inspection (erv 60.000 Miles (100 000 kml. I
6 I Transmission Service See Explanation
of Scheduled Maintenance
Services
following Schedules I and 11. I
8 I Spark Plug Wire 1nspection"t I Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 lm). I
10 I Fuel Tank, Cap & Lines Inspection*t I000 Miles (100 000 lun). I
12 I Fuel Filter Replacement*t I Everv 30.000 Miles (50 000 lun). I
16 I Transfer Case Fluid Change I See Explanation of Scheduled Maintenance
Services
followinrr Schedules I and 11. I
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Explanation of Scheduled
Maintenance Services
Below are explanations of the services
listed in Schedule I and Schedule 11.
The proper fluids and lubricants to use
are listed in Section
D. Make sure
whoever services your vehicle uses
these. All parts should be replaced and
all necessary repairs done before you or
anyone else drives the vehicle.
ITEM SERVICE
NO.
1. Engine Oil and Filter Change* -
Always use SH or SG Energy
Conserving I1 oils of proper viscosity.
The
“SH” or “SG” designation may be
shown alone or in combination with
others, such as “SH/CD,”
“SH, SG,
CD,” “SG/CD,” etc. To determine the
preferred viscosity for your vehicle’s engine (e.g., SAE 5W-30 or SAE 1OW-
30), see the Index under Engine Oil.
2. Chassis Lubrication - Lubricate the
transmission shift linkage, parking
brake cable guides, underbody contact points and linkage. Lubricate the front
suspension and steering linkage.
3. Tire and Wheel Rotation and
Inspection
- For proper wear and
maximum tire life, rotate your tires
following the instructions
in this
manual. See
Tires, Inspection G.
Rotation in the Index. Check the
tires for uneven wear or damage. If
you see irregular or premature wear,
check the wheel alignment. Check for
damaged wheels also.
Inspection - Inspect the drive belt
for cracks, fraying, wear and proper
tension. Replace as needed.
5. Cooling System Service‘: - Drain,
flush and refill the system with new
or approved recycled coolant
conforming to
GM Specification
6038-M. Keep coolant at the proper
mixture as specified. See
CooZant in
the
Index. This provides proper
freeze and boil protection, corrosion
inhibitor level and maintains proper
engine operating temperature.
Inspect hoses and replace if they are
cracked, swollen or deteriorated.
Tighten screw-type hose clamps. Clean the outside of the radiator and
air conditioning condenser. Wash the
pressure cap and neck.
4. Engine Accessory Drive Belt
To help ensure proper operation, we
recommend
a pressure test of both the
cooling system and the pressure cap.
6. Transmission Service - Change
both the fluid and filter every 15,000
miles
(25 000 lun) if the vehicle is
mainly driven under one or more of
these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the
outside temperature regularly
reaches
90°F (32°C) or higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police
If you do not use your vehicle under
any of these conditions, change both
the fluid and filter every
100,000
miles (166 000 lun) .
Replace spark plugs with the proper
type. See
Replacement Parts in the
Index.
8. Spark Plug Wire Inspection‘%t -
Inspect for burns, cracks or other
damage. Check the boot
fit at the
coils and at the spark plugs. Replace
wires as needed.
car
or delivery service.
7. Spark Plug Replacement” -
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9. Air Cleaner Filter Replacement': -
Replace every 30,000 miles (50 000
km) or more often under dusty
conditions. Ask your dealer for the
proper replacement intervals for your
driving conditions.
10. Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines
Inspection*t
- Inspect fuel tank,
cap and lines (including fuel rails
and injection assembly) for damage
or leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for
an even filler neck imprint or any
damage. Replace parts as needed.
1 1. Positive Crankcase Ventilation
(PCV) System 1nspection':t
-
Inspect the system for proper
function. Replace any worn, plugged
or collapsed hoses and seals.
Replace valve only if necessary.
12. Fuel Filter Replacement'$t -
Replace the fuel filter every 30,000
miles (50 000 ltrn), or sooner if
clogged.
13. Engine Timing and Distributor Check':'t
- Adjust the timing to
the underhood label specifications.
Inspect the inside and outside of the
distributor cap and rotor for craclts, carbon tracking and corrosion.
Clean or replace
as needed.
14. Differential (Axle) Service-Check
rear/front differential fluid level and
add as needed. Check constant
velocity joints and axle seals for
leaking.
Locking Rear Differential -Drain
fluid at first engine oil change and
refill. Check fluid level and add as
needed at subsequent oil changes. In
dusty areas, or trailer towing
applications, drain fluid at every
15,000 miles (25 000 ltm) and refill.
More frequent lubrication may be
required during heavy-duty or off-
road use. A fluid loss in this system
may indicate
a problem. Have it
inspected and repaired at once.
15. Brake Systems Inspection-When
the engine oil is changed, inspect
the lines and hoses for proper
hookup, binding, leaks, craclts,
chafing, etc. Check the parking
brake adjustment and the fluid level
in the master cylinder. A low brake
fluid level can indicate worn disc
brake pads which may need to be
serviced.
A fluid loss in this system may indicate a problem. See
the
Index under Brake System Warning
Light. When the wheels are
removed for rotation, inspect disc
brake pads for wear and rotors for
surface condition. Also inspect
drum brake linings for wear and
craclts. Inspect other brake parts,
including drums, wheel cylinders,
calipers, parking brake, etc. at the
same time.
You may need to have your brakes
inspected more often
if your driving
habits or conditions result in
frequent braking.
16. Transfer Case Fluid Change -In
heavy or frequent trailer towing
applications, drain fluid and refill
every
30,000 miles (50 000 ltm).
'$ = An Emission Control Service.
f = The US. Environmental Protection Agency
or the California Air Resources Board has
determined that the failure to pelform this
maintenance item will not nullify the
emission warranty or limit recall liability
prior
to the completion of vehicle useful life.
General Motors, however, urges that
all
recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
maintenance be recorded
in "Section E:
Maintenance Record. ''
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