tire type OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA 1994 Owners Manual

hur Driving and the Road
114
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say
about what happens when the three
control systems (brakes, steering and
acceleration) don’t have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do
what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep
trying to steer and constantly seek an
escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of
the vehicle. Defensive drivers avoid
most skids by taking reasonable care
suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But
skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to
your Oldsmobile’s three control
systems. In the braking skid your
wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or
cornering skid, too much speed or
steering in a curve causes tires to slip
and lose cornering force. And in the
acceleration skid too much throttle
causes the driving wheels to spin. A cornering
skid and an acceleration
skid are best handled by easing your
foot
off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your
foot
off the accelerator pedal and
quickly steer the way you want the
vehicle to go. If you start steering
quicldy enough, your vehicle may
straighten out. Always be ready for a
second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when
water, snow, ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to
slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow
down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited. While driving
on a surface with reduced
traction, try your best to avoid sudden
steering, acceleration, or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could
cause the tires to slide. You may not
realize the surface is slippery until your
vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize
warning clues
- such as enough water,
ice or packed snow on the road to make
a “mirrored surface”
- and slow down
when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock braking
system (ABS) helps avoid only the
braking skid.
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Driving Guidelines
This multipurpose passknger vehicle is
defined as a utility vehicle in Consumer
Information Regulations issued by the
National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration (NHTSA) of the United
States Department of Transportation.
Utility vehicles have higher ground
clearance and a narrower track to make
them capable of performing in a wide
variety of off-road applications. Specific
design characteristics give them a
higher center of gravity than ordinary
cars. An advantage of the higher ground
clearance is a better view of the road
allowing you to anticipate problems.
They are not designed for cornering at
the same speeds as conventional
2-
wheel drive vehicles any more than low-
slung sports cars are designed to
perform satisfactorily under off-road
conditions.
If at all possible, avoid sharp
turns or abrupt maneuvers. As with
other vehicles of this type, failure to
operate this vehicle correctly may result
in loss of control or vehicle rollover.
3perating Your Bravada Off
Paved Roads
Many of the same design features that
help make Bravada responsive on paved
roads during poor weather conditions
-
features like the locking rear axle and all-
wheel drive - help make it much better
suited for off-road use than a
conventional passenger
car. Its higher
ground clearance also helps Bravada step
over some off-road obstacles. But
Bravada doesn’t have features like special
underbody shielding and a transfer case
low gear range, things that are usually
thought necessary for extended or severe
off-road service.
This guide is for
operating your Bravada off paved roads.
Also, see Anti-Lock Brakes in the Index.
Off-road driving can be great fun. But it
does have some definite hazards. The
greatest of these is the terrain itself.
“Off-roading” means you’ve left the
great North American road system
behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked.
Curves aren’t banked. There are no
road signs. Surfaces can be slippery,
rough, uphill or downhill. In short,
you’ve gone right back to nature.
Off-road driving involves some new
skills. And that’s why it’s very
important that
you read this guide.
You’ll find many driving tips and
suggestions. These will help malte your
off-road driving safer and more
enjoyable.
Before You Go Ofi-Roading
There are some things to do before you
go out. For example, be sure to have all
necessary maintenance and service
work done. Be sure you read all the
information about your all-wheel drive
vehicle in this manual.
Is there enough
fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are
the fluid levels up where they should
be? What are the local laws that apply
to off-roading where you’ll be driving?
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Your Driving and the Road
134
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch
equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are a few
reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when
loaded, will weigh more than
2,000
pounds (900 kg), be sure to use a
properly mounted, weight-distributing
hitch and sway control
of the proper
size. This equipment is very important
for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
Will you have to make any holes in
the body of your vehicle when you
install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t
seal them, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle (see
Carbon Monoxide in
the
Index). Dirt and water can, too.
. The bumpers on your vehicle are not
intended for hitches. Do not attach
rental hitches or other bumper-type
hitches to them. Use only a frame-
mounted hitch that does not attach to
the bumper. If
your vehicle has
a deadweight hitch
and a tailgate-mounted spare tire, and
your trailer has a winch or tongue jack,
you could have interference between
them.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains
between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer
so that the tongue
will not drop to the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains. Always leave
just enough slack
so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains
to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000
pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes
- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow
the instructions for the trailer brakes
so
you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly. Don’t
tap into your vehicle’s brake
system
if the trailer’s brake system will
use more than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc)
of fluid from your vehicle’s master
cylinder. If it does, both braking
systems won’t work well. You could
even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000
psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not,
the trailer brake system must not be
used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then
make the brake fluid tap at the port
on the master cylinder that sends
fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use
copper tubing for this. If
you do, it
will bend and finally break off. Use
steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain
amount of experience. Before setting
out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking
with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the
vehicle you are driving is now a good
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Problems on the Road
144
Towing Your Bravada
Try to have a GM dealer or a
professional towing service tow your
vehicle. The usual towing equipment is:
(A) Sling-type tow truck
(B) Wheel-lift tow truck
(C) Car carrier
If your vehicle has been changed or
modified since it was factory-new by
adding aftermarket items like aero
skirting or special tires and wheels,
these instructions may not be correct.
Before you do anything, turn on the
hazard warning flashers.
NOTICE:
Dollies must be used on ground
wheels or vehicle damage will occur.
When you call, tell the towing service:
That your vehicle has all-wheel drive
and cannot be towed with any wheels
in contact with the ground. Your
vehicle requires dollies with sling-type
or wheel-lift equipment, or a car
carrier.
The make, model, and year of your
vehicle.
Whether you can still move the shift
lever.
If there was an accident, what was
damaged.
When the towing service arrives, let the
tow operator how that this manual
contains towing instructions. The
operator may want to see them.
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Accelerator Control System
Your Maintenance Schedule will tell
you how often the accelerator linkage
pivot points must be lubricated and
what type of lubricant to use.
Accelerator cables and cruise control
cables should not be lubricated. Any
cables that are worn or are hard to pull
should be replaced.
Hood Latches and Hood
Hinge
Your Maintenance Schedule will tell
you how to lubricate the hood latch and
hood hinge assembly.
Lock Cylinders
To be sure your locks operate properly,
they must be lubricated. Your
Maintenance Schedule will tell you how
often to lubricate them and what type of
lubricant to use.
You should not use penetrating oils
because they could wash out the factory
installed lubricant and cause the lock to
bind. De-icers which contain alcohol could
also wash away the lubricant,
so
be sure to lubricate the lock after using
a de-icer of this type.
Tailgate-Mounted Spare Tire
Carrier
The spare tire carrier must be lubricated
to keep it operating smoothly. Your
Maintenance Schedule
will tell you
what type of lubricant to use.
Tires
We don’t make tires. Your new vehicle
comes with high quality tires made by a
leading tire manufacturer. These tires
are warranted by the tire manufacturers
and their warranties are delivered with
every new Oldsmobile. If your spare tire
is a different brand than your road tires,
you will have a tire warranty folder from
each of these manufacturers.
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Service & Appearance Care
186
Inflation-Tire Pressure
The Certification/Tire label which is
on the rear edge
of the driver’s door
shows the correct inflation pressures
for your tires, when they’re cold.
“Cold” means your vehicle has been
sitting for at least three hours or driven
no more than
a mile. Also see
Capacities G Specifications in the
Index.
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that
underinflation
or overinflation is all
right. It’s not. If your tires don’t
have enough air (underinflation)
you can get:
Too much flexing
Too much heat
Tire overloading
Bad wear
Bad handling
Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air
(overinflation)
) you can get:
Unusual wear
Bad handling
Rough ride
Needless damage from road
hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more.
Also, check the tire pressure
of the
spare tire.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to
check tire pressure. Simply looking at
the tires will not tell you the pressure,
especially if you have radial tires
-
which may look properly inflated even if
they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to
put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Service & Appearance Care
188
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other
damage that can’t be repaired well
because of the size or location of the
damage.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires
you need, look at the Certificationnire
label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when
it was new had a Tire Performance
Criteria Specification (TPC Spec)
number on each tire’s sidewall. When
you get new tires, get ones with that
same TPC Spec number. That way, your
vehicle will continue to have tires that
are designed to give proper endurance,
handling, speed rating, traction, ride
and other things during normal service
on your vehicle.
If your tires have an all-
season tread design, the TPC number
will be followed by a
“MS” (for mud
and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those
not having a TPC Spec number, make
sure they are the same size, load range,
speed rating and construction type
(bias, bias-belted or radial) as your
original tires.
Uniform Tire Qualify Grading
The following information relates to the
system developed by the United States
National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature
performance. (This applies only to
vehicles sold in the United States.)
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative
rating based on the wear rate of the tire
when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified government
test course. For example, a tire graded
150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2)
times as well on the government course as
a tire graded
100. The relative
performance of tires depends upon the
actual conditions of their use, however,
and may depart significantly from the
norm due to variations in driving habits,
service practices and differences in road
characteristics and climate.
Traction - A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to
lowest are: A,
B, and C. They represent
the tire’s ability to stop on wet
pavement as measured under controlled
conditions
on specified government test
surfaces of asphalt and concrete.
A tire
marked C may have poor traction
performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to
this tire is based on braking (straight-
ahead) traction tests and does not
include cornering (turning) traction.
Temperature - A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the
highest),
B, and C, representing the
tire’s resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability to dissipate heat
when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified indoor
laboratory test wheel. Sustained high
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temperature can cause the material of
the tire to degenerate and reduce tire
life, and excessive temperature can lead
to sudden tire failure. The grade
C
corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet
under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A
represent higher levels of performance
on the laboratory test wheel than the
minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for
this tire is established for a tire that is
properly inflated and not overloaded.
Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in
combination, can cause heat buildup
and possible tire failure.
These grades are molded
on the
sidewalls of passenger car tires.
While the tires available as standard
or
optional equipment on General Motors
vehicles may vary with respect to these
grades,
all such tires meet General
Motors performance standards and have
been approved for use
on General Motors
vehicles.
All passenger type (P Metric)
tires must conform to Federal safety
requirements
in addition to these grades.
Wheel Alignment and Tire
Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were
aligned and balanced carefully at the
factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance.
In most cases, you will not need to have
your wheels aligned again. However, if
you notice unusual tire wear or your
vehicle pulling one way or the other, the
alignment may need to be reset. If you
notice your vehicle vibrating when
driving
on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked
or badly rusted. If wheel nuts keep
coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts,
and wheel nuts should be replaced. If
the wheel leaks air, replace it (except
some aluminum wheels, which can
sometimes be repaired). See your
Oldsmobile dealer if any of these
conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel
you need. Each new
wheel should have the same
load carrying capacity, diameter, width,
offset, and be mounted the same way as
the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your
wheels, wheel bolts, or wheel nuts,
replace them only with new GM
original equipment parts. This way, you
will be sure to have the right wheel,
wheel bolts, and wheel nuts for your
Oldsmobile model.
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Service & Appearance Care
190
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause
problems with bearing life, brake
cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration, headlight aim, bumper
height, vehicle ground clearance,
and tire clearance to the body and
chassis.
Used Replacement Wheels
Tire Chains
NOTICE:
Don’t use tire chains; they can
damage your vehicle.
I Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be
hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can
burst into flame if you strike a match or
get them
on a hot part of the vehicle.
Some are dangerous
if you breathe their
fumes in a closed space. When
you use
anything from a container to clean your
Oldsmobile, be sure to follow the
manufacturer’s warnings and
instructions. And always open your
doors or windows when you’re cleaning
the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
Gasoline
Benzene
Naphtha
Carbon Tetrachloride
Acetone
Paint Thinner
Turpentine
Lacquer Thinner
Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous
- some
more than others
- and they can all
damage your vehicle, too.
NOTICE:
Don’t use any of these unless this
manual says you can. In many uses,
these will damage your vehicle:
Laundry Soap
Bleach
Reducing Agents
I Cleaning the Inside of Your
Oldsmobile
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of
dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl or
leather with a clean, damp cloth.
Your Oldsmobile dealer has two
GM
cleaners, a solvent-type spot lifter and a
foam-type powdered cleaner. They will
clean normal spots and stains very well.
Do not use them
on vinyl or leather.
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Here are some cleaning tips:
Always read the instructions on the
cleaner label.
Clean up stains as soon as you can -
before they set.
Use a clean cloth or sponge, and
change to a clean area often. A soft
brush may be used
if stains are
stubborn.
ventilated area only.
If you use them,
don’t saturate the stained area.
If a ring forms after spot cleaning,
clean the entire area immediately or it
will set.
Use solvent-type cleaners in a well-
Using Foam-Type Cleaner on
Fabric
Vacuum and brush the area to remove
Always clean a whole trim panel or
any
loose dirt.
section. Mask surrounding trim along
stitch or welt lines.
Mix Multi-Purpose Powdered Cleaner
following the directions on the
container label.
Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge.
Don’t
saturate the material.
Don’t rub it roughly.
As soon as you’ve cleaned the section,
use a sponge to remove the suds.
Rinse the section with a clean, wet
sponge.
Wipe off what’s left with a slightly
damp paper towel or cloth.
Then dry it immediately with a blow
dryer or a heat lamp.
NOTICE:
Be careful with a hair dryer or heat
lamp.
You could scorch the fabric.
Wipe with a clean cloth.
Using Solvent-Type Cleaner on
Fabric
First, see if you have to use solvent-type
cleaner at all. Some spots and stains
will clean off better with just water and
mild soap.
If you need to use a solvent:
Gently scrape excess soil from the trim material with
a clean, dull knife or
scraper. Use very little cleaner, light
pressure and clean cloths (preferably
cheesecloth). Cleaning should start at
the outside of the stain, “feathering”
toward the center. Keep changing to a
clean section of the cloth.
When you clean a stain from fabric,
immediately dry the area with an air
hose, hair dryer, or heat lamp to help
prevent a cleaning ring. (See the
previous NOTICE.)
Special Cleaning Problems
Greasy or Oily Stains
Such as grease, oil, butter, margarine,
shoe polish, coffee with cream, chewing
gum, cosmetic creams, vegetable oils,
wax crayon, tar and asphalt.
Carefully scrape off excess stain.
Follow the solvent-type instructions
Shoe polish, wax crayon, tar and
described
earlier.
asphalt will stain
if left on a vehicle
seat fabric. They should be removed
as soon as possible. Be careful,
because the cleaner will dissolve them
and may cause them to spread.
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