brake light OPEL 1900 1973 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: OPEL, Model Year: 1973, Model line: 1900, Model: OPEL 1900 1973Pages: 625, PDF Size: 17.22 MB
Page 220 of 625

REAR SUSPENSION3F- 53
7. Remove jack stands.
LOWER CONTROL ARM REPLACEMENTRemovalThis operation can be performed with the vehicle
standing at curb height or elevated.
1. Disconnect parking brake cable from support
bracket on control arm.
2. Loosen and remove front and rear control arm
attaching bolts and remove control arm.
installation1. On
1900’s and Manta’s place a load of approxi-
mately 350 lbs. in luggage compartment or on the
GT, place a load of approximately 150
Ibs. on dri-
ver’s seat. Torque control arm attaching nut and
bolts to 18 lb.ft on
GT’s and 23 Ib.ft. on the 1900 -Manta.
2. Connect parking brake cable to support bracket on
control
ranI.
STABILIZER ROD REPLACEMENT
Removal1. Raise and support rear of vehicle.
2. Disconnect stabilizer rod to shackle bolts.
3. Disconnect stabilizer rod to underbody retainers
and work stabilizer rod out from under vehicle.
SPECIFICATIONS
REAR SUSPENSION SPECIFICATIONS
Tightening SpecificationsInstallation1. Work stabilizer rod into position and loosely at-
tach stabilizer to underbody retainers.
2. Connect stabilizer rod to shackles.
3. With the vehicle standing on its wheels or the rear
axle assembly lifted, tighten stabilizer rod to under-
body bracket bolts to 15 lb. ft.
4. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle.
TRACK ROD REPLACEMENT
Removal1. Lift rear of car and suitably support.
2. Disconnect track rod from rear axle and frame
side member.
Installation
1. Loosely connect track rod first to side member and
then to the rear axle.
2. On the
1900 - Manta, load luggage compartment
of vehicle with approximately 350 lbs. or on the GT,
place a load of approximately 150 lbs. on driver’s
seat and tighten track rod attaching bolts to specified
torque.
3. Remove supports (jack stands) and lower vehicle.
Use a reliable torque wrench. Specifications are for clean and lightly-oiled
threads.
Part
Nut
Nut
Nut
Bolt
Nut
Nut
Nut
BoltName
WheelNuts.
.._.._......._........................................................
Control Arm Attaching (GT) .._.._.,,,........,,.,,.......,,......,,,,......
Control Arm Attaching (1 900 - Manta) .,,...._...,,,,_.....,,.,...
Stabilizer Rod to Underbody Retainers ,....._.,.,,.,.....,,,....
Shock Absorber Lower Attachment (GT) . .._.....,._.._.,,,...
Shock Absorber Lower Attachment (1900 Manta) ,,.,
Shock Absorber Upper Attachment. .._.....................
Stabilizer Shackle to Axle Bracket .._._.._,...._..,,.,,.......,,,...
Torque
Lb.Ft.
65
16
23
15
1,5
47
1025
Page 225 of 625

3G- 581873 OPEL SERVICE MANUALTire Wear IrregularitiesAn additional cause of vibrations may sometimes be
tire wear irregularities. These can also produce noise
disturbances, and can be generally corrected by
rotating the tires, Figure
3G-6. Before proceeding
further, locate and correct the cause of the irregular
tire wear. See Figure
3G-7.Use the criss-cross method of rotation of tires only
when all four tires are equally worn. In some in-
stances, it may be necessary to put the truest running
assemblies (those with the lowest tolerances) on the
front of the car.
Wheel Nut Torque end Tightening SpecificationsDuring all wheel installations, it is important to use
the correct procedures for installing wheel nuts and
torquing them uniformly and in proper sequence.
This is important in order to avoid possible distor-
tion of the brake drum or disc, and to minimize
damage to lug and nut threads and wheel stud holes.
To assure uniform tightening of wheel lug nuts, the
following procedure is recommended:
1. Install wheel lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern and
tighten just enough to seat wheel against hub. This
assures proper piloting of the wheel on its hub.
2. Tighten lug nuts uniformly to proper torque of 65
Ib.ft. using criss-cross pattern.
An impact wrench should not be used, as uniform
torque control cannot be maintained.
Summary of Diagnosis end Correction of Tire and
Wheel Vibration1. Inflate all tires to recommended pressure and
road-test car with owner to define problem.
2. Spin front tire/wheel assemblies with wheel driv-
ing equipment. Rear wheels may be spun with tires
off the ground and with one wheel held at a time. The
offending tire may cause vibration that may be felt
by touching the bumper or fender. By process of
elimination, determine offending tire/wheel assem-
bly.
3. Check for tire/wheel unbalance. Balance, if neces-
sary.4. Check each tire/wheel assembly on the car for
radial runout on the tire tread. Wheel and tire assem-
blies exceeding
.050 inches may be considered as
offending assemblies. Offending tire/wheel assemblyshould be deflated and the tire repositioned (indexed)
180 degrees from original location.
5. After repositioning, rebalance tire/wheel assembly
(static and dynamic preferred).
6. Test drive and evaluate correction.
The following procedure should be used to determine
cause of roughness or vibration with car in operation
at various speeds:
I. Jack up all wheels having jack support rear end of
car at center of rear axle housing.
2. With transmission in “Drive”, run engine at vari-
ous car speeds to note speeds at which vibration or
roughness occurs.
3. Remove rear wheels and run engine again at the
critical speeds noted in step 2. If roughness is gone,
the condition is caused by unbalanced wheel and tire
assemblies.
4. If roughness still exists with rear wheels removed,
remove rear brake drums and repeat the running
test. Elimination of the roughness indicates out of
balance brake drums.
5. If roughness still exists with brake drums
removed, run engine with transmission in “Neutral”.
Elimination of the roughness indicates that propeller
shaft is out of balance. Continued roughness indi-
cates an out-of- balance engine.
ABNORMAL TIRE WEAR
General Operating ConditionsAssuming that there is no misalignment condition to
cause abnormal wear, the life of tires depends largely
upon car operation conditions and driving habits.
Tires wear at a much faster rate in some localities
than in others because of road and operating condi-
tions. Some types of roads are much more abrasive
than others. Tire wear is also dependent upon the
number of hills and mountains which the car must
go up and down, the severity of grades, the number
of starts and stops, driging speeds, the amount of rain
and snow, and prevailing temperatures. Tire
wear
increases rapidly with speed, temperature, and loadon tire. Tires used at low speeds, in cool climates, or
with light loads will have longer life than tires used
for high-speed driving in hot climates with heavy
loads.
Driving habits have a very important hearing on tire
life. A careful driver may obtain much greater mile-
age from a set of tires than would be obtained by a
Page 228 of 625

WHEELS AND TIRES3G- 61Cornering Tread WearThe modern independently-sprung automobile al-
lows the driver to negotiate turns at a high rate of
speed with a greater feeling of safety. This fact is
responsible for a comparatively new type of tread
wear that can easily be mistaken for toe or camber
wear.When a car is making a turn, the tires are supposed
to be rolling in a circle. When the turn is made at
high speed, however, centrifugal force acting on the
car causes the tires to be distorted sideways and to
slip or skid on the road surface. This produces a
diagonal cross type of wear, which in severe cases
will result in a fine or sharp edge on each rib of the
tire treads.
Cornering wear can be distinguished from toe or
camber wear by the rounding of the outside shoulder
of the tire and by the roughening of tread surface in
this section denoting severe abrasion. See Figure
3G-7.No alignment or tire pressure cahnge can be made
that will relieve cornering wear. Only the driver can
effect a cure and that is by slowing down on curves.
Heel and Toe Tread WearHeel and toe wear is a saw-tooth effect with one end
of each tread block worn more than the other.
The end which wears is the one that first grips the
road when the brakes are applied. High-speed driv-
ing and excessive “se of the brakes will cause this
type of irregular tire wear. This type of wear will
occur on any type of block tread design. See Figure3G-7.
Heel and toe wear is not so prevalent on the rear tires
because of the propelling action which creates a
counteracting force which wears the opposite end of
the tread block. These two stresses on the rear tires
wear the tread blocks in opposite directions and re-
sult in more even wear while on the front tires, the
braking stress is the only one which is effective. This
may be counteracted by interchanging tires.
A small amount of irregular wear, slightly
saw-toothed in appearance, at the outer segments of tires
is a normal condition and is due to the difference in
circumference between the center and the outer
edges of the tire tread. This saw-toothed appearance,
however, will be exaggerated by underinflation, im-
proper toe-in, or both.Cupped or Scalloped Type Tire Wear
Cupping or scalloping is associated with wear on acar driven mostly at highway speeds without recom-
mended tire rotation. Factors which promote cup-
ping include underinflation, incorrect toe-in setting
or camber setting, and steady highway speeds on
smooth, paved surfaces as opposed to gravel or
rough asphalt.
The following recommendations suggest action that
may be taken to help prevent cupping.
1. Rotate tires as recommended in Figure
3G-6.2. Frequently inspect front tires for irregular wear
due to underinflation, improper toe-in setting, or
camber setting. Regardless of the original cause of
cupped tread wear on either front tire, no alignment
or balance job, however perfect, can prevent future
excessive wear of the spots. Once a front tire acquires
flat or cupped spots, additional wear will continue at
a rapid rate. At the time of correction, however, the
cupped tire should be interchanged with a rear tire
on which the tread runs true. The cupped tire will,
to a certain degree, true itself on a rear wheel.
Although not normally the cause of cupping, the
following factors can contribute to the problem.
Looseness of parts in the suspension system, such as
worn steering knuckle ball joints, loose wheel bear-
ings, inoperative shock absorbers, and any excessive
looseness throughout the steering system all tend to
allow the front wheels to kick around and, if any of
the wheel alignment factors are incorrect, irregular
spotty tire tread wear of one type or another may
result.
Wobble or runout of a tire, either front or rear, due
to bent wheel or to tire being improperly mounted
will cause uneven wear.
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTSDEMOUNTING AND MOUNTING
TUBELESS TIRESDue to “se of symmetrical rims, tires must be
mounted over the narrow rim shoulder i.e., over out-
side rim flange.
When demounting a tubeless tire “se care to avoid
damaging the rim-seal ridges on tire beads DO NOT
USE TIRE IRONS TO FORCE BEADS A WA Y
FROM WHEEL RIM FLANGES.
When tire is removed, inspect it carefully to deter-
mine whether loss of air was caused by puncture or
by improper
tit of beads against rim flanges. If im-
proper fit is indicated, check wheel as follows: Do
not reuse dented rims.
Page 234 of 625

PROPELLER SHAFT AND CENTRAL JOINT4A- 3MAJOR REPAIR
PROPELLER SHAFT REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
Removal
1. Raise rear of car and support on jack stands at rear
jack brackets.
2. Disconnect parking brake cable equalizer from
rod.3. On the Opel
1900 and Manta, unhook parking
brake cable from floor panel.
4. On the Opel 1900 and Manta, unhook exhaust
system and let it down.
5. Mark the mating parts of the U-joint and the drive
pinion extension shaft flange.
6. Loosen bolt locks and remove bolts or nuts.
7. Work propeller shaft slightly forward, lower rear
end of shaft and slide assembly rearward. Remove
thrust spring from front of propeller shaft.
S. Install plug in transmission extension housing to
prevent loss of lubricant.
installation
CAUTION:
Fasteners in the foJlowing steps are impor-
tant attaching parts in that they could affect the
performance of
vital components and systems, and-
/or could
result in major repair expense. They must
be replaced with one of the
samepart number or with
an equivalent part
ifreplacement becomes oecessary.
Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or
substitute design. Torque values must be used as
specirid during reassembly to assure proper reten-
tion of these parts.1. Remove plug from rear of transmission.
2. Slide thrust spring onto transmission output shaft
and slide propeller shaft through the oil seal and onto
the transmission output shaft. Make certain trans-
mission rear seal is not damaged.
3. Align rear universal joint and pinion flange locat-
ing marks and secure with respective bolts and lock
plates. Torque bolts to 11
lb.ft. Bend lock plate tangs
to secure bolts or nuts.
4. Connect parking brake cable equalizer to brake
rod and adjust to specifications.
5. On the Opel 1900 and Manta connect parking
brake cable to floor panel.DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE
CENTRAL JOINT
Disassembly of Central Joint1. Raise and support rear of car under axle tubes.
2. Release brake line bracket from rear of torque
tube.3. Disconnect parking brake cable equalizer and re-
turn spring from brake rod.
4. On the Opel 1900 and Manta, unhook exhaust
system and let it down.
5. Mark universal joint and flange. Disconnect pro-
peller shaft from flange and support it out of the way.
6. Support torque tube with floor jack using mini-
mum pressure.
7. Remove the central joint bracket to underbody
attaching bolts.
8. Allow floor jack to lower the torque tube.
9. Disconnect torque tube from differential carrier by
removing the attaching bolts.
10. Install pinion flange holder J-8614 and remove
self-locking flange nut. See Figure 4A-2.
FLANGE HOLDER4A-2
Figure 4A-2 Removing Pinion Flange Nut
11. Pull pinion flange using J-8614 adapter. See Fig-
ure 4A-3.
12. Remove drive pinion extension shaft from torque
tube using a soft faced mallet. See Figure 4A- 4.
13. Removal ball bearing from cushion.
14. With torque tube placed in vise remove support
Page 242 of 625

REAR AXLE40- 11
Figure
48-3 Removing Axle Bearing Retaining Ring
seat and lateral runout of axle shaft flange near larg
est diameter.
Permissible radial runout is .002”, and permissible
“lateral runout is
.OO4”. An axle shaft which exceeds
these tolerances, or one which has been otherwise
damaged during removal, must be replaced.
2. Using installer ring J-21721-2, press on bearing so
that oil seal groove on bearing faces shaft splines.
3. Using installer ring J-21721-2, press on retainer
ring so that shoulder faces bearing.
Figure 48.4 Measuring for Axle Shaft Bearing Depth4. Check axle shafts end play as follows:
a. Using a depth gauge, measure depth of rear axle
bearing seat in axle housing (backing plate and gas-
kets in place). See Figure
4B-4.b. Measure width of bearing outer race. The differ-
ence between the two measurements indicates the
required thickness of the shims. The maximum per-
missible end play is .002”. If necessary to reduce end
play, add
,004” shims behind bearing as necessary. A
slight crush fit (up to ,006”) is desirable.
5. Coat rear axle shaft splines with hypoid gear lubri-
cant prior to installation.
6. Insert axle shaft into housing; using a mallet, drive
axle shaft completely into housing.
7. Install lock washers and nuts. Torque to 20
Ib.ft.8. Install brake drum and wheel assembly.
9. Remove supports and lower rear of car to floor.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE
DIFFERENTIALRemoval and installation of parts for service de-
scribed in the following sub-paragraph can be per-
formed with the rear axle assembly in the car. The
car must be raised and adequately supported to per-
mit access to the parts to be serviced.
Removal and Disassembly of Differential Case1. With car suitably supported at rear jack bracket
on each side, remove differential cover bolts and let
lubricant drain into suitable container.
2. Disconnect left end of track rod and wire to left
shock absorber.
3. Remove both rear wheels and brake drums.
4. Working through access holes in axle shaft flange,
remove four nuts and washers that retain the axle
shaft dust shield and brake backing plate to the axle
housing.
5. Unscrew rear axle shaft retaining plate.
6. Install axle shaft puller J-8805 coupled with slide
hammer J-2619 on axle shaft flange to remove rear
axle. In removing axle shaft, care should be exercised
to avoid damage to the oil seal. See Figure
4B-5.7. Remove differential cover and discard gasket.
8. Check and record ring gear backlash.
Page 261 of 625

CONTENTS
SubjectPage No.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION:
Power
BrakeBooster. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Master
Cylinder
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .DIAGNOSIS:
Power
Brake
,UnitTroubleDiagnosis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS:
Checking Brake Booster Operation
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Brake Booster Filter Service
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..Vacuum Control Valve Service
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .MAJOR REPAIR:
5A-2
5A-2SA-4SA-5
5A-65A-6
Brake Booster Removal and Installation
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Master Cylinder Overhaul
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * . . . . . . . . . . .SPECIFICATIONS:
General
Specifications
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .SA-6
5A-7
5A-95A. 21973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER AND MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
POWER BRAKE BOOSTERThe vacuum power cylinder contains the power pis-
ton assembly which houses the control valve and
reaction mechanism and the power piston return
spring. The control valve is composed of the air valveand the floating control valve assembly. The reaction
mechanism consists of a hydraulic piston, reaction
plate, and a series of springs. An air filter element is
assembled around the push rod and fills the cavity
inside the hub of the power piston. This keeps dirt
and dust from entering the vacuum booster. The
push rod, which operates the air valve, projects out
of the end of the power cylinder ‘housing through a
boot.MASTER CYLINDER
The master cylinder is composed pf a primary pistonand secondary piston; it is supplied with fluid from
two separate reservoirs. A check valve is mounted onthe primary circuit which supplies fluid to the rear
brakes. This keeps a slight static pressure in the rear
brake system. When the pedal is depressed, the pushrod moves the two pistons forward simultaneously
until the seals of the two pistons cover the compen-
sating ports in the cylinder. The pressure is increasedin the two chambers simultaneously, thus supplying
fluid to both front and rear brake systems.Figure
5A-1 Brake Booster Attachment (Opel 1900
and Manta)
In the GT, the brake fluid container is arranged at
right angles to the tandem brake master cylinder. SeeFigure
5A-3. It is pushed over the feed port of the
rear brake circuit onto the brake master cylinder and
Page 265 of 625

5A- 61973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
ing on dusty and sandy roads - the filter and sound
deadener should occasionally be replaced. To do so,
brake booster has to be removed without detaching
brake master cylinder.
Proceed as follows:
1. Remove protective cap (boot).
2. On the GT only, pry retainer from housing
using a screwdriver. See Figure
SA-6.Figure 5A-6 Brake Booster Filter (GT)
3. With a pointed tool remove air silencer and filter
out of control housing bore and pull it off thrust rod.
4. Install new filter and air silencer. On the GT, the
smooth side of the filter must face towards the inside.
The radial slots in filter and deadener must be stag-
gered to each other by 180 degrees.
5. Slide retainer over control housing (GT only) and
seal it with light plastic hammer strokes. Slide pro-
tective cap over control housing and slip it onto
brake booster housing.
VACUUM CONTROL VALVE SERVICE
A vacuum control valve is installed into the vacuum
hose between intake manifold and brake booster. It
serves to prevent air from flowing back (vacuum
release), when engine is shut off.
The vacuum control valve cannot be disassembled
and has to be replaced, if defective. On replacement,
note the following:
1. The vacuum control valve should be located near
the intake manifold. Therefore, the short vacuumhose has to be installed between intake manifold and
vacuum control valve and the long hose between
vacuum control valve and brake booster.
2. The arrows on the vacuum control valve housing
must point towards the intake manifold, otherwise
no air can be drawn out of the brake booster which
renders the brake booster ineffective.
3. The connections of the vacuum hoses to the intake
manifold, vacuum control valve and brake booster
must be airtight. For this reason make sure. that the
hose clamps are properly installed.
MAJOR REPAIR
BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVALAND INSTALLATION
Removal
1. Disconnect brake pipes from master cylinder.
Place a cloth under the master cylinder and brake
pipes to absorb any brake fluid drippings.
2. Disconnect vacuum hose from brake booster.
3. Remove four nuts and washers attaching brake
booster to brake booster support.
4. On the GT only, remove master cylinder support
to fender skirt bolts.
5. On the GT, loosen thrust rod lock nut and un-
screw the piston push rod while holding the master
cylinder brake booster assembly. On the Opel
1900and Manta, remove the nut and bolt attaching clevis
on the pedal.
6. Remove assembly from car.
7. Disconnect master cylinder from brake booster.
Installation
CAUTION: Fasteners in the folkwing steps are im-
portant attaching parts in that they could affect the
performance of vital components and systems, and-
/or could result in major repair expense. They must
berep/aced, with one of the same part number or with
an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary.
Do not
use a replacement part or lesser quality or
substitute design. Torque values must be used as
specified during reassembly to assure proper reten-
tion of these parts.1. Using a new front housing seal, assemble master
Page 266 of 625

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER AND MASTER CYLINDER5A- 7cylinder to brake booster and torque nuts to 14
Ib.ft.on the GT and 12
lb.ft. on the Opel 1900 and Manta.
2. Position assembly into brake booster bracket and,
on the GT only, thread piston push rod onto the
thrust rod.
3. Install brake booster to support attaching washers
and nuts and tighten to 11
lb.ft. of torque.
4. On the GT install master cylinder support to inner
fender skirt bolts.
5. Connect vacuum hose to brake booster.
6. By turning the piston push rod on the thrust rod,
(GT only) adjust until the brake pedal free travel is
l/4 inch and tighten the lock nut.
7. Connect brake pipes to master cylinder and bleed
brakes.
MASTER CYLINDER OVERHAUL. GT
Removal of Master Cylinder1. Disconnect the two brake pipes from the master
cylinder.
2. Remove the front support to skirt attaching bolts,
the cylinder to booster retaining nuts and lift out
master cylinder.
Disassembly1. Prior to brake master cylinder disassembly, pour
brake fluid out of brake fluid reservoir, remove reser-
voir from master cylinder and take sealing plugs out
of housing.
2. Screw static pressure valve(s) out of housing.
3. To facilitate disassembly, push piston somewhat
into cylinder and insert a rounded off piece of weld-
ing rod approx.
.12 in. thick into feed port to retain
piston in this position.
4. Remove stop screw and snap ring out of housing
and take out both pistons together with springs.
5. Remove stop screw from piston for rear brake
circuit and remove all component parts. Remove
also all component parts from intermediate piston of
front brake circuit.
Cleaning and Checking1. Clean parts with genuine brake fluid, Delco Su-
preme No. 11, or equivalent. Do not use any other
cleaning solvents. Dry with compressed air. Free up
compensating and feed ports.2. Polish cylinder bore of housing with crocus cloth.
If lapping scores and rust spots are still noticeable,
replace brake master cylinder assembly.
3. Check inner components for damage and replace,
if required. The rubber seals and static pressure valve
always have to be replaced.
Assembly1. Assemble front and rear brake circuit pistons.
Prior to assembly coat rubber seals with brake fluid.
2. Coat cylinder bore, piston sliding surfaces and
seals with brake fluid.
3. Insert preassembled intermediate piston for front
brake circuit together with thrust spring and spring
seat into clyinder bore. The smaller diameter of the
tapered thrust spring must face piston.
4. With a drift, push piston (against spring pres-
sure) into housing and insert a piece of welding rod
into feed port of front brake circuit to retain piston.
5. Install stop screw with new seal ring into housing
and tighten.
6. Insert preassembled piston for rear brake circuit
into cylinder bore and install snap ring into groove
in housing.
7. Check piston fof free movement by moving it to
and fro. If required, place washers under the head of
the stop screw.
8. Lightly push piston into housing and remove
piece of welding rod out of feed port of front brake
circuit.
9. With a rounded off piece of welding rod
(.020 -
,024 in.) check whether compensating ports are free.
10. Screw in new static pressure valve(s).
11. Coat new sealing plugs with brake fluid and in-
sert them into housing. Push twin brake fluid con-
tainer into sealing plugs and install screen and cover
with seal ring.
Installation1. Install master cylinder onto brake booster with
washers and nuts. Torque to 14
lb.ft.2. Attach the front mounting bracket.
3. Install brake lines on master cylinder, and bleed
brakes.
Page 267 of 625

5A- 81973 OPEL SERVICE MANUAL
4. If required, adjust mechanically actuated stop
light switch. Pedal travel of 5/S” to 1” should actu-
ate switch. Add or subtract washers between bracket
and switch to obtain proper adjustment.
5. Road test car for proper brake performance.
MASTER CYLINDER OVERHAUL. OPEL 1900
AND MANTA
Ramoval of Master Cylinder1. Remove master cylinder from brake booster by
disconnecting brake pipes and removing two
self-tightening nuts that secure master cylinder to brake;ia;;ter. Be careful not to loosen the front housing
Disassembly1. Prior-to brake master cylinder disassembly, pour
brake fluid out of brake fluid reservoir.
2. Remove reservoir from master cylinder body by
removing reservoir clips with snap ring pliers. See
Figure 5A-7.
Figure
5A-7 Removing Reservoir Clips
3. Remove the piston stop screw which is fitted in
master cylinder body.
4. Place master cylinder in a vise and push piston
forward and insert a rod with a spherical end into the
hole nearest the mounting flange. This will retain the
piston in a forward position and allow for removal of
snap ring. See Figures
SA-8 and 5A-9,Figure 5A.8 Retaining Piston in Forward Position
Figure 6A-9 Removing Snap Ring
Page 273 of 625

5B- 141973 OPEL SERVICE MANUALConditionPossible CauseCorrection2. Partial system failure.2. Check front and rear brake system
and repair, if necessary. Also, check
brake warning light, if a failed
system is found and light did not
function.
3. Excessively worn shoe
and lining.3. Check and replace in axle sets.
4. Piston in caliper stuck
or sluggish.4. Remove caliper and rebuild.
5. Fading brakes due to
incorrect lining.
6. Vacuum leak.5. Remove and replace with original
equipment lining.
6. Check for ruptured hose or loose
attachment.
Excessive Pedal Travel1. Partial brake system
failure.1. Check both front and rear system
for a failure and repair. Also, check
warning light
- it should have indi-
cated a failure.
2. Insufficient fluid in
master cylinder.
3. Poor rear brake
adjustment.2. Fill reservoirs with approved
brake fluid. Check for leaks.
3. Adjust rear brake per
specifications.
4. Air trapped in system.4. Bleed system.
5. Bent shoe and lining.5. Replace axle set of shoe and
lining.
Dragging Brakes (A very
light drag is present in
all disc brakes
immediately after pedal
is released.)1. Master cylinder pistons
not returning correctly.1. With reservoir cover off, check
for fluid spurt at bypass holes as
pedal is depressed. Adjust push rod,
if necessary, or rebuild master
cylinder.
2. Restricted brake tubes2. Check for soft hoses or damaged
or hoses.tubes and replace with new hoses and
new double-walled steel brake tubing.
3. Incorrect parking brake
adjustment on rear brakes.3. Check and readjust to correct
specifications.
Grabbing or Uneven Braking
Action (All conditions
listed under “Pulls”
.)4. Check valve installed in
outlet to front disc brakes.
1. Malfunction of power
brake unit.4. Check master cylinder outlet and
remove check valve if present.
1. Check operation and repair, if
necessary.