check engine OPEL CALIBRA 1988 Service Repair Manual

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, remove the
timing belt. Details are as described in
Chapter 2A.
3Remove timing belt tension roller from oil
pump, where applicable.
4Unscrew and remove the coolant pump
securing bolts (see illustration).
5Withdraw the coolant pump from the
cylinder block, and recover the O-ring (see
illustrations). It may be necessary to tap the
pump lightly with a plastic-faced hammer to
free it from the cylinder block.
6If desired, the rear timing belt cover can be
removed from the pump by rotating the cover
to release it from the flange on the pump.
7No overhaul of the coolant pump is
possible, and if faulty, the unit must be
renewed.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
9Use a new O-ring when refitting the pump.
Before refitting the pump, smear the pump
mounting face in the cylinder block and the O-
ring with a silicone grease or petroleum jelly.
10Do not fully tighten the pump securing
bolts until the timing belt has been fitted and
tensioned.
11Refit and tension the timing belt, as
described in Chapter 2A.
12If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the
cooling system, as described in Section 4.
DOHC models
Removal
13Remove the engine undershield.
14If the engine is in the vehicle, drain the
cooling system, as described in Section 2.
15Remove the timing belt, camshaft
sprockets, crankshaft sprocket, timing belt
tensioner and idler rollers, and the timing belt
rear cover, as described in Chapter 2B.
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 4
and 5.
17No overhaul of the coolant pump is
possible, and if faulty, the unit must be
renewed.
Refitting
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.19Always use a new O-ring. Before fitting
the pump, smear the pump mating face in the
cylinder block and the O-ring with a silicone
grease or petroleum jelly.
20Refit the pump, and ensure that the lugs
on the pump and the cylinder block are
aligned before tightening the pump securing
bolts (see illustration).
21Refit the remaining components, and
tension the timing belt, as described in
Chapter 2B.
22If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the
cooling system, as described in Section 4.
Replace the undershield.
12Cooling fan - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan,
noting the location of the wiring connector for
use when refitting.
3Unscrew the two upper fan shroud securing
bolts from the top corners of the shroud, then
tilt the assembly back slightly towards the
engine, and withdraw it upwards away from
the radiator (see illustration).
4To separate the fan motor from the shroud,
unscrew the three securing nuts. If desired,
the fan blades can be separated from the
motor by removing the securing spring clip
from the end of the motor shaft.5No spare parts are available for the motor,
and if the unit is faulty, it must be renewed.
Refitting
6Reassembly (where applicable), and
refitting are reversals of the dismantling and
removal procedures, but ensure that the lower
end of the fan shroud locates correctly on the
radiator.
7On completion, start the engine and run it
until it reaches normal operating temperature,
then continue to run the engine and check
that the cooling fan cuts in and functions
correctly.
13Expansion tank and coolant
level sensor -removal and
refitting
3
Expansion tank
Removal
1The expansion tank is secured by a single
screw at its front edge. If the tank is to be
moved for access purposes, it should be
possible to move it sufficiently within the
confines of the hoses once the securing
screw has been removed. If the tank is to be
removed completely, continue as follows.
2Disconnect the two hoses from the top of
the expansion tank, and suspend them above
the height of the engine to prevent coolant loss.
3Remove the tank securing screw, then
manipulate the tank from its location, holding
it as high as possible above the engine.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
11.5B . . .and recover the O-ring -
2.0 litre SOHC model
12.3 Withdrawing the fan shroud assembly
- 2.0 litre SOHC model11.20 Lugs (arrowed) on coolant pump
and cylinder block must be aligned -
DOHC models
11.5A Withdraw the coolant pump . . .11.4 Coolant pump securing bolt
(arrowed) - 2.0 litre SOHC model
3

4Position a container beneath the tank, then
disconnect the bottom hose and allow the
contents of the tank to drain into the
container. Suspend the bottom hose as high
as possible above the engine to prevent
coolant loss.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check and if necessary top-up the
coolant level, as described in Section 4. The
coolant drained from the expansion tank
during removal can be re-used, provided it
has not been contaminated.
Coolant level sensor
6The coolant level sensor, where fitted, is an
integral part of the expansion tank cap. If the
level sensor is faulty, the complete cap
assembly must be renewed.
14Temperature gauge sender -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1The sender is screwed into the inlet
manifold on 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except
C16 NZ2), and into the thermostat housing
on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models (see
illustrations).
2Partially drain the cooling system, as
described in Section 2, to minimise coolant
spillage.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.4Disconnect the wiring from the switch, then
unscrew the switch from its location.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
6Coat the sender threads with sealant before
fitting.
7Top-up the cooling system, as described in
Section 4.
8On completion, start the engine and check
the operation of the temperature gauge. Also
check for coolant leaks.
15Cooling fan switch -removal
and refitting
3
Note: A new sealing ring should be used
when refitting the switch
Removal
1The cooling fan switch is located at the
bottom right-hand corner of the radiator (see
illustration).
2If a faulty switch is suspected, the circuit to
the fan motor can be tested by temporarily
bridging the terminals in the switch wiring
plug, and switching on the ignition. If the
cooling fan now operates, the switch is faulty
and should be renewed. To remove the
switch, continue as follows.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the switch wiring plug if not
already done.4Drain the cooling system, as described in
Section 2.
5Unscrew the switch from the radiator and
recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new sealing ring, and refill the cooling system
as described in Section 4.
7On completion, start the engine and run it
until it reaches normal operating temperature,
then continue to run the engine and check
that the cooling fan cuts in and functions
correctly.
16Heater control panel -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the passenger side footwell trim,
the steering column shrouds, and the
instrument panel lower and upper trim panels,
as described in Chapter 11.
3Remove the clock or trip computer, as
applicable, from the facia, referring to Chapter
12 if necessary.
4Remove the two heater control panel
securing screws from the clock/trip computer
aperture, and the remaining securing screw
from the right-hand end of the panel (exposed
by removing the instrument panel lower trim
panel), (see illustrations).
3•6Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
14.1A Disconnecting the wiring from the
temperature gauge sender - 1.6 litre model14.1C Temperature gauge sender location
(arrowed) - 2.0 litre DOHC model
16.4B . . . and the remaining screw from
the right-hand end of the panel16.4A Remove the two heater control
panel securing screws from the clock/trip
computer aperture . . .15.1 Cooling fan switch location -
2.0 litre SOHC model viewed from below
14.1B Temperature gauge sender location
(arrowed) - 2.0 litre SOHC model

5Working through the passenger footwell,
reach up behind the facia, and disconnect the
bowden cables from the control levers at the
rear of the heater control panel. Note that
each cable is secured by a plastic clip, and in
some cases, by an additional metal clip,
which must be released before the cable end
can be disconnected from the control lever
(see illustration). This is a tricky operation,
and some patience will be required. Mark the
cables to ensure that they are refitted in their
original positions.
6Withdraw the heater control panel from the
facia, and disconnect the wiring plugs from
the rear of the panel.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, move all the control levers
through their full extent of travel, and check
the heater mechanism for correct operation.
17Heater matrix -removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Drain the cooling system, (Section 2).
2Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the coolant hoses from the heater
matrix pipes at the bulkhead.
3Working inside the vehicle, remove the front
centre console section, (Chapter 11).
4Extract the two front and two rear securing
screws, and remove the plastic cover from
under the heater matrix (see illustration).5Remove the two front retaining screws from
the heater matrix securing straps, then lower
the securing straps and withdraw the heater
matrix from the facia (see illustration). The
pipes at the rear of the matrix must be fed
through the bulkhead, and the grommets in
the heater matrix housing may be displaced
as the matrix is withdrawn. Where applicable,
recover the grommets.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
7Ensure that the coolant pipe grommets are
seated correctly in the heater matrix housing,
as shown (see illustration).
8Ensure that the rubber mounting strips are
correctly seated between the mounting straps
and the matrix.
9On completion, refill the cooling system, as
described in Section 4.
18Heater blower motor -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1The heater blower motor is situated under
the windscreen cowl panel.
2Remove the windscreen cowl panel, as
described in Chapter 11.
3Remove the windscreen wiper motor and
linkage, as described in Chapter 12.
4Unclip the cover from the top of the motor
(see illustration).
5Disconnect the motor wiring plug.6Remove the two clamp screws, then lift off
the clamp and withdraw the motor assembly
from its housing (see illustration).
7It is possible to renew the motor resistor by
pressing the retaining clips together to release
the resistor bracket. Fit the new resistor,
ensuring that the retaining clips lock it into
position (see illustration).
8No overhaul of the motor assembly is
possible, and if faulty, the unit must be
renewed.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the mounting rubber is correctly seated
between the clamp and the motor.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7
17.5 Unscrewing a heater matrix securing
strap screw
18.6 Unscrewing a heater blower motor
clamp screw18.7 Heater blower motor resistor
retaining clip (arrowed)18.4 Unclip the cover from the heater
blower motor
17.7 Heater matrix coolant pipe grommet
location
1 Coolant pipe
2 Engine compartment bulkhead
3 Heater matrix housing
4 Grommet
17.4 Removing the plastic cover from the
heater matrix16.5 Heater control cables disconnected,
showing cable end securing clips
3

REF•4General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it is
necessary to observe the following procedures
and instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used, unless
specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its
face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new
ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on
the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal injury,
but expensive damage could be caused to the
components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are
encountered during servicing or overhaul, they
should, wherever possible, be renewed or
refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

REF•8MOTTest Checks
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

REF•10MOTTest Checks
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

MOTTest Checks REF•11
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allowthe engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
REF

Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist. Do not
be too hasty in removing the transmission if a fault is suspected, as
most of the testing is carried out with the unit still fitted.
Fluid leakage
MAutomatic transmission fluid is usually dark in colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
onto the transmission by airflow.
MTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
a)Fluid pan or “sump” (Chapter 1 and 7B).
b)Dipstick tube (Chapter 1 and 7B).
c)Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
MTransmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
General gear selection problems
MChapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
that may be caused by a poorly adjusted cable:a)Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b)Indicator panel indicating a gear other than the one actually being
used.
c)Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d)Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
MRefer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
MLow transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
MIncorrect starter/inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7B).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has
no drive in forward or reverse gears
MThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists,
professional help will be necessary.
Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)
MLack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter (Chapter 8).
MWorn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
MWorn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
MBent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).
REF•16Fault Finding
Automatic transmission
Driveshafts
Noisy in neutral with engine running
MInput shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed), (Chapter 7A).*
MClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released), (Chapter 6).
Noisy in one particular gear
MWorn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).*
Difficulty engaging gears
MClutch fault (Chapter 6).
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
Jumps out of gear
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
MWorn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*
Vibration
MLack of oil (Chapter 1).
MWorn bearings (Chapter 7A).*
Lubricant leaks
MLeaking differential output oil seal (Chapter 7A).
MLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7A).*
MLeaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7A).*
* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition.
This should enable the owner can communicate clearly with a
professional mechanic.
Manual transmission

REF•22Glossary of Technical Terms
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
FFan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
GGapThe distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the sideelectrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional points-
type ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
GasketAny thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
GaugeAn instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
HHalfshaftA rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancerA device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
HoneAn abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappetA tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
IIgnition timingThe moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifoldA tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuel-
injected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
Exhaust manifold
Feeler blade
Adjusting spark plug gap
Gasket
EGR valve

AABS components- 9•2, 9•16
Accelerator cable- 4A•5, 4B•9
Accelerator pedal- 4A•5
Acknowledgements- 0•4
Aerial- 12•17
Air cleaner- 1•3, 1•13, 4A•3, 4B•4
Air box- 4B•5
Air pump/cut off valve- 4C•2
Air temp control- 4B•5
Air vents- 3•8
Airbag- 12•19
Airflow meters- 4B•12
Alternator- 5•5
Alternator V-belt check- 1•12
Anti theft alarm- 12•19
Anti-roll bars- 10•8, 10•13, 10•17
Antifreeze mixture- 0•12, 0•17, 1•2, 3•3
ATF- 0•17, 1•2, 1•11, 7B•3
Automatic choke unit- 4A•9
Automatic transmission- 7B•1 et seq
cooler pipes and hoses - 7B•5
ECU - 7B•5
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
fluid - 0•17, 1•2, 1•11, 7B•3
kickdown switch - 7B•3
removal and refitting - 7B•6
selector control cable - 7B•4
speed sensors - 7B•6
starter inhibitor switch - 7B•3
temperature sensor - 7B•5
BBattery- 0•6, 0•15, 5•5
Bearings (engine)- 2A•31
Bleeding the brakes- 9•3
Bleeding the power steering- 10•22
Blower motor- 3•7
Body damage- 11•2
Body electrical systems - 12•1 et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 11•1 et seq
Bonnet- 11•4
Bonnet lock/release cable- 11•4
Boot lid- 11•4
Boot lid lock- 11•5
Bores- 2A•33
Brake checks- 1•12,
Braking system- 9•1 et seq
ABS components - 9•2, 9•16
backplate - 9•12
bleeding the brakes - 9•3
brake caliper - 9•8
brake disc - 9•10
brake drum - 9•11
brake fluid pipes and hoses - 9•18
brake lamp switch - 12•5
brake pads - 9•4
brake pedal - 9•21
brake shoes - 9•6
disc shield - 9•13
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•17
fluid - 0•13, 0•17handbrake adjustment - 9•18
handbrake cables - 9•19
handbrake lever - 9•20
master cylinder - 9•13
pressure valves - 9•18
vacuum servo unit - 9•15
wheel cylinder - 9•11
Bulbs- 12•2, 12•7, 12•11
Bumpers- 11•11
CCables:
bonnet release - 11•4
clutch - 6•2
handbrake - 9•19
selector automatic transmission - 7B•4
speedometer - 12•18
throttle - 4A•5, 4B•9
Caliper (brake)- 9•8
Camber- 10•1, 10•24
Camshaft- 2A•19, 2B•6
Camshaft housing- 2A•18
Camshaft oil seals- 2A•18
Capacities- 1•2
Carbon canister- 4C•4
Carburettor- 4A•5, 4A•11
Carpets- 11•2
Castor- 10•1, 10•24
Catalytic converter- 4C•3
Central door locking- 12•16
Centre console- 11•18
Cigarette lighter- 12•5
Clock- 12•6
Clutch- 6•1 et seq
cable - 6•2
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
pedal - 6•3
release bearing - 6•6
removal, inspection and refitting - 6•3
Coil- 5•9
Coil spring (rear)- 10•12, 10•15
Compression test- 2A•8
Computer components- 12•7
Connecting rods- 2A•29
Contents- 0•2
Control units- 4B•16, 7B•5
Conversion factors- REF•2
Coolant- 0•12, 0•17, 1•2, 3•3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems-
3•1 et seq
blower motor - 3•7
coolant level sensor - 3•5
coolant pump - 3•4
cooling fan - 3•5
draining - 3•2
expansion tank - 3•5
fan switch - 3•6
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
filling - 3•2
flushing - 3•2
heater control panel - 3•6
heater matrix - 3•7
radiator - 3•3temperature gauge sender - 3•6
thermostat - 3•4
vents - 3•8
Courtesy lamp switch- 12•5
Crankcase ventilation system- 2A•7
Crankshaft- 2A•31
Crankshaft oil seals- 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
Cylinder bores- 2A•33
Cylinder head- 2A•19, 2A•22, 2B•7DDents- 11•2
Depressurising fuel system- 4B•5
Differential bearing oil seal- 7A•3
Dimensions and weights- REF•1
Disc (brake)- 9•10
Distributor- 5•10
Door- 11•6
handle - 11•7
inner trim panel - 11•6
lock key battery - 1•13
mirror - 11•11
Driveshafts- 8•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
gaiter - 8•4
joint renewal - 8•4
Drum (brake)- 9•11
EEarth fault finding- 12•2
ECU’s - 4B•16, 7B•5
EGR components- 4C•2
Electric windows- 12•15
Electrical fault finding- 12•2
Electrical system (body)- 12•1 et seq
Electrical system- 0•14, 5•2
Electrical system fault diagnosis- REF•12,
REF•18
Electronic control units- 4B•16, 7B•5
Engine:
bearings - 2A•31
camshaft - 2A•19, 2B•6
camshaft housing - 2A•18
camshaft oil seals - 2A•18, 2B•6
codes - 2A•1, 2B•1
compartment - 0•10, 1•5
compression test - 2A•8
connecting rods - 2A•29
crankcase ventilation - 2A•7
crankshaft - 2A•31
crankshaft oil seals - 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
cylinder bores - 2A•33
cylinder head - 2A•19, 2A•22, 2B•7
dismantling - 2A•12
DOHC - 2B•1 et seq
electrical systems - 5•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•13
flexplate (automatic transmission) - 2A•26
flywheel - 2A•26
main and big-end bearings - 2A•31
mountings (engine/transmission) - 2A•12,
2B•3
Index REF•25
REF
Note:References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”