clock OPEL CALIBRA 1988 Service Owner's Guide

32Release the securing clips and remove the
main outer timing belt cover, then unclip the
smaller outer timing belt cover from the
coolant pump.
33Turn the crankshaft through at least
quarter of a turn clockwise using a socket or
spanner on the crankshaft sprocket bolt.
34If the special gauge is available, place the
locked gauge at the centre of the belt run
between the coolant pump and the camshaft
sprocket. The gauge should locate on the
timing belt (see illustration).
35Slowly release the operating lever on the
gauge, then lightly tap the gauge two or three
times, and note the reading on the scale (see
illustration).
36If the reading is not as specified, loosen
the three coolant pump securing bolts, and
rotate the pump in the required direction to
achieve the desired reading on the gauge.
Rotate the pump clockwise to increase the
belt tension, or anti-clockwise to decrease the
tension.
37Lightly tighten the coolant pump securing
bolts.
38Remove the tensioning gauge, and turn
the crankshaft through one full turn clockwise.
39Re-check the belt tension as described in
paragraphs 4 and 5.
40If the tension is not as specified, repeat
paragraphs 6 to 9 inclusive until the desired,
consistent, reading is obtained.
41On completion of adjustment, remove the
checking gauge, tighten the coolant pump
bolts to the specified torque, and refit the
outer timing belt covers.
42If the special checking gauge is not
available, the timing belt tension can be
checked approximately by twisting the belt
between the thumb and forefinger, at the
centre of the run between the coolant pump
and the camshaft sprocket. It should just be
possible to twist the belt through 90°using
moderate pressure (see illustration). If
adjustment is necessary, continue as
described previously in this Section, but have
the belt tension checked by a Vauxhall dealer
using the special gauge at the earliest
opportunity. If in doubt, err on the tight side
when adjusting the tension, as if the belt is too
slack, it may jump on the sprockets, which
could result in serious engine damage.12Timing belt and tensioner 1.4
and 1.6 models (not C16 NZ2) -
removal, refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1Remove the timing belt outer covers as
described in Section 11, paragraphs 1 to 5.
2To lock the tensioner in its slackest position
for removal and refitting, move the tensioner
indicator arm clockwise until the holes align in
the baseplate and the arm. Then insert a
close-fitting pin, such as a drift, to retain them
(see illustration). The tensioner can then be
unbolted, or the belt can be removed.
3Check that the tensioner roller rotates
smoothly and easily, with no noises or signs
of free play, roughness or notchy movement.
Check also that there is no sign of physical
wear or damage. If the tensioner is faulty in
any way, or if there is any reason to doubt the
continued efficiency of its spring, the
complete assembly must be renewed.
Refitting
4On refitting, ensure that the tensioner
baseplate lug engages with the hole in the oil
pump housing, then tighten the tensioner bolt
securely and remove the locking pin; the
tensioner should be quite free to move.
5Set the belt tension as described below.
Adjustment
6Whenever the timing belt is disturbed,
whether during belt renewal or any otherengine overhaul work, its tension must be set
on assembly - note that this procedure must
only be carried out on a cold engine.
7It is assumed that the belt has been
removed and refitted, i.e. that the crankshaft
pulley and timing belt outer covers are
removed, that the tensioner is unlocked (see
above) and that No 1 cylinder is in its firing
position (just before TDC on the compression
stroke). Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley
bolt and remove the spark plugs so that the
crankshaft can be rotated easily.
8Note also that turning the coolant pump
with the precision required is a great deal
easier if a special spanner (Kent-Moore Part
No KM-421-A) is used. Alternatives are
available from manufacturers such as
Sykes-Pickavant (Part No 031300) (see
illustration).
9With the belt refitted and correctly routed
(see Section 11), ensure that the punch mark
on the crankshaft sprocket and the stamped
line on the camshaft sprocket are aligned with
their respective timing belt rear cover notches
(see illustrations).
10Tighten the belt by slackening its three
securing bolts, and turning the coolant pump
clockwise until the holes align in the tensioner
indicator arm and baseplate (the tensioner
indicator arm will then have moved fully
clockwise to its stop). Lightly tighten the
pump securing bolts, just sufficiently to
prevent the pump from moving.
11Using a spanner applied to the crankshaft
pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft smoothly
2A•16SOHC engine procedures
11.34 Tension blade KM-510-A correctly
positioned on timing belt. Belt must pass
through points A, B and C - SOHC engines11.42 Checking timing belt tension by
twisting belt through 90º between thumb
and forefinger
12.8 Using a special spanner to adjust the
timing belt by moving the coolant pump12.2 Using a close-fitting drift to lock the
tensioner. Note baseplate lug engaged in
oil pump housing (arrowed)
11.35 Note the reading on the scale of the
tension gauge -
1.6 litre engine

(without jerking it or the belt may jump a
tooth), through 2 complete revolutions (720°)
clockwise, until the camshaft and crankshaft
sprocket timing marks are once again aligned
as described in paragraph 13. The position of
the coolant pump must not alter.
12Slacken the timing belt by turning the
coolant pump anti-clockwise until the
tensioner’s indicator pointer is in the centre of
its baseplate notch; the timing belt tension is
then correct (see illustration). Tighten the
coolant pump bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting (see Chapter 3), then turn the
crankshaft through two further turns
clockwise and recheck the setting.
13If the pointer and notch are not aligned,
the operation must be repeated from
paragraph 7. On completion, refit all
components removed.
13Timing belt cover aperture,
1.4 and 1.6 models - general
General
The rear timing belt cover fitted to 1991 and
1992 model year 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines,
incorporates a small aperture just above the
oil pump housing. In certain circumstances, it
is possible for foreign objects, such as gravel,
to penetrate through this aperture and cause
the timing belt to jump a tooth on its
sprockets. For this reason, it is desirable to
cover the aperture to prevent the possibility of
this occurrence. A modified cover without an
aperture was introduced for 1993 models.
A piece of suitably moulded sponge rubber
(P/N 90469594), is available from Vauxhall
dealers to enable the aperture to be covered.
On models without power steering, the
sponge rubber can be inserted into the cover
aperture from above. If power steering is
fitted, the sponge rubber is inserted into place
from below. If access is difficult, particularly if
the drivebelt is of the ribbed V-belt type, it
may be easier to remove the alternator/power
steering pump drivebelt as described in
Chapter 5. Refit, and where applicable adjust,
the belt tension on completion.
14Timing belt and tensioner C16
NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Removal
1An alternative type of spring loaded
automatic timing belt tensioner is fitted to
these engines, from 1993 onward (see
illustration). The tensioner assembly is similar
to other automatic tensioners, but the removal
and refitting procedures vary as follows.
2The timing belt main outer cover may be
secured either by clips or by hexagon-headed
screws to the rear cover; in some cases, a
combination of clips and screws may be used.
3To release the belt tension before removal,
unscrew the timing belt tensioner securing
bolt slightly then, with a tool inserted in the
slot on the tensioner arm, turn the tensioner
arm until the timing belt is slack. If necessary,remove completely and examine the tensioner
as described in Section 12.
Refitting
4Refit the tensioner into position and tighten
the securing bolt slightly.
5Ensure that the coolant pump is correctly
positioned by checking that the lug on the
coolant pump flange is aligned with the
corresponding lug on the cylinder block. If this
is not the case, slacken the coolant pump
mounting bolts slightly and move the pump
accordingly (see Chapter 3). Tighten the bolts
to the specified torque on completion.
6Refit the timing belt then tension it as
follows.
Adjustment
7Slacken the automatic tensioner securing
bolt and move the tensioner arm anti-
clockwise, until the tensioner pointer lies at its
stop. Tighten the tensioner securing bolt to
hold the tensioner in this position.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•17
12.12 Timing belt tension is correct when
the tensioner indicator pointer aligns with
the centre of the baseplate notch12.9B . . . and stamped line (A) on
camshaft sprocket with timing belt rear
cover notch (B)12.9A Align punch mark (A) on crankshaft
sprocket with timing belt rear
cover notch (B) . . .
2A
14.1 Timing belt automatic tensioner details (alternative type)
A Alignment lugs on coolant pump and cylinder block
B Tensioner pointer aligned with notch in tensioner bracket
1 Move the tensioner arm anti-clockwise to release the belt tension
2 Move the tensioner arm clockwise to tension the belt

8Turn the crankshaft through two complete
revolutions in the normal direction of rotation,
and check that with the crankshaft pulley TDC
mark aligned with the pointer on the rear
timing belt cover. The TDC mark on the
camshaft sprocket is still aligned with the
notch in the timing belt rear cover. Slacken
the automatic tensioner securing bolt again
and move the tensioner arm clockwise, until
the tensioner pointer is aligned with the notch
in the tensioner bracket. In the first few hours
of operation a new belt will be subjected to
‘settling-in’, (known as the running-in
procedure). If you are refitting a used belt (one
that has been ‘run-in’), align the pointer to
approximately 4 mm to the left of the notch
(see illustration).
9Tighten the tensioner securing bolt
securely. Turn the crankshaft through one
complete revolution, in the normal direction of
rotation, and check that the crankshaft and
camshaft timing marks still align. Then refit
the remainder of the components as
described in Section 12.
10With the timing belt adjustment set in this
way, correct tension will always be maintained
by the automatic tensioner and no further
checking or adjustment will be necessary.
15Camshaft front oil seal -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1The camshaft front oil seal may be renewed
with the engine in the vehicle without
removing the camshaft as follows.
2Remove the timing belt and the camshaft
sprocket, as described in Section 11.
3Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a
self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with
pliers to extract the seal.
Refitting
4Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.
5Grease the lips of the new seal, and drive it
into position until it is flush with the housing,
using a socket or tube. Take care not to
damage the seal lips during fitting.
6Refit the camshaft sprocket and the timing
belt and tension the timing belt as described
in Section 11.
16Camshaft rear oil seal -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1The camshaft rear oil seal may be renewed
with the engine in the vehicle without
removing the camshaft as follows.
2Remove the distributor as described in
Chapter 53On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), the seal takes the form of an O-ring on
the rear of the distributor body. Prise off the
old O-ring carefully, using a screwdriver.
4On C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, prise
the seal from the camshaft housing
Refitting
5 On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except C16
NZ2), fit the new O-ring, and refit the
distributor as described in Chapter 5.
6On C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, fit the
new seal so that it is flush with the end of the
housing, then refit the distributor components
as described in Chapter 5.
17Camshaft housing and
camshaft -general
Note: The engine must be cold when
removing the camshaft housing. Do not
remove the camshaft housing from a hot
engine. New cylinder head bolts must be used
on refitting and sealer will be required when
refitting the camshaft housing. Also see
paragraph 3 before starting work:
General
1The camshaft can only be removed without
disturbing the housing, if a special tool is
available to depress the cam followers whilst
the camshaft is withdrawn.2If such a tool is available, the camshaft can
be removed, after removing the timing belt
and camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 11.
3If the special tool is not available, the
camshaft housing must be removed. Since
the cylinder head bolts must be removed, it is
strongly recommended that a new cylinder
head gasket is fitted. If the gasket is not
renewed, and it “blows” on reassembly, the
cylinder head will have to be removed to
renew the gasket, and another new set of
bolts will have to be obtained for refitting. You
have been warned!
4Removal and refitting of the camshaft
housing is described in Section 18, along with
cylinder head removal and refitting. If it is
decided not to disturb the cylinder head, the
relevant paragraphs referring specifically to
cylinder head removal and refitting can be
ignored.
5Removal of the camshaft from the housing
is described in Section 18.
18Camshaft housing and
camshaft - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
4
Dismantling
1With the camshaft housing removed from
the cylinder head as described in Section 18,
continue as follows.
2Remove the distributor and it’s
components as described in Chapter 5 and
on C 16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre, carefully prise
out the camshaft rear oil seal.
3On carburettor models, remove the fuel
pump, referring to Chapter 4A, if necessary.
4Working at the distributor end of the
camshaft, unscrew the two camshaft
thrustplate securing bolts, using an Allen key
or hexagon bit (see illustration).
5Withdraw the thrustplate, noting which way
round it is fitted (see illustration).
6Carefully withdraw the camshaft from the
distributor end of the camshaft housing,
taking care not to damage the bearing
journals (see illustration).
2A•18SOHC engine procedures
14.8 Timing belt adjustment
1 Alignment for new belts
2 Alignment for ‘run-in’ belts (gap is
approximately 4 mm to the left of centre)
18.4 Camshaft thrustplate and
securing bolts -
1.6 litre engine

4Position a container beneath the tank, then
disconnect the bottom hose and allow the
contents of the tank to drain into the
container. Suspend the bottom hose as high
as possible above the engine to prevent
coolant loss.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion check and if necessary top-up the
coolant level, as described in Section 4. The
coolant drained from the expansion tank
during removal can be re-used, provided it
has not been contaminated.
Coolant level sensor
6The coolant level sensor, where fitted, is an
integral part of the expansion tank cap. If the
level sensor is faulty, the complete cap
assembly must be renewed.
14Temperature gauge sender -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1The sender is screwed into the inlet
manifold on 1.4 and 1.6 litre models (except
C16 NZ2), and into the thermostat housing
on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models (see
illustrations).
2Partially drain the cooling system, as
described in Section 2, to minimise coolant
spillage.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.4Disconnect the wiring from the switch, then
unscrew the switch from its location.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
6Coat the sender threads with sealant before
fitting.
7Top-up the cooling system, as described in
Section 4.
8On completion, start the engine and check
the operation of the temperature gauge. Also
check for coolant leaks.
15Cooling fan switch -removal
and refitting
3
Note: A new sealing ring should be used
when refitting the switch
Removal
1The cooling fan switch is located at the
bottom right-hand corner of the radiator (see
illustration).
2If a faulty switch is suspected, the circuit to
the fan motor can be tested by temporarily
bridging the terminals in the switch wiring
plug, and switching on the ignition. If the
cooling fan now operates, the switch is faulty
and should be renewed. To remove the
switch, continue as follows.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the switch wiring plug if not
already done.4Drain the cooling system, as described in
Section 2.
5Unscrew the switch from the radiator and
recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new sealing ring, and refill the cooling system
as described in Section 4.
7On completion, start the engine and run it
until it reaches normal operating temperature,
then continue to run the engine and check
that the cooling fan cuts in and functions
correctly.
16Heater control panel -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the passenger side footwell trim,
the steering column shrouds, and the
instrument panel lower and upper trim panels,
as described in Chapter 11.
3Remove the clock or trip computer, as
applicable, from the facia, referring to Chapter
12 if necessary.
4Remove the two heater control panel
securing screws from the clock/trip computer
aperture, and the remaining securing screw
from the right-hand end of the panel (exposed
by removing the instrument panel lower trim
panel), (see illustrations).
3•6Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
14.1A Disconnecting the wiring from the
temperature gauge sender - 1.6 litre model14.1C Temperature gauge sender location
(arrowed) - 2.0 litre DOHC model
16.4B . . . and the remaining screw from
the right-hand end of the panel16.4A Remove the two heater control
panel securing screws from the clock/trip
computer aperture . . .15.1 Cooling fan switch location -
2.0 litre SOHC model viewed from below
14.1B Temperature gauge sender location
(arrowed) - 2.0 litre SOHC model

REF•10MOTTest Checks
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

AABS components- 9•2, 9•16
Accelerator cable- 4A•5, 4B•9
Accelerator pedal- 4A•5
Acknowledgements- 0•4
Aerial- 12•17
Air cleaner- 1•3, 1•13, 4A•3, 4B•4
Air box- 4B•5
Air pump/cut off valve- 4C•2
Air temp control- 4B•5
Air vents- 3•8
Airbag- 12•19
Airflow meters- 4B•12
Alternator- 5•5
Alternator V-belt check- 1•12
Anti theft alarm- 12•19
Anti-roll bars- 10•8, 10•13, 10•17
Antifreeze mixture- 0•12, 0•17, 1•2, 3•3
ATF- 0•17, 1•2, 1•11, 7B•3
Automatic choke unit- 4A•9
Automatic transmission- 7B•1 et seq
cooler pipes and hoses - 7B•5
ECU - 7B•5
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
fluid - 0•17, 1•2, 1•11, 7B•3
kickdown switch - 7B•3
removal and refitting - 7B•6
selector control cable - 7B•4
speed sensors - 7B•6
starter inhibitor switch - 7B•3
temperature sensor - 7B•5
BBattery- 0•6, 0•15, 5•5
Bearings (engine)- 2A•31
Bleeding the brakes- 9•3
Bleeding the power steering- 10•22
Blower motor- 3•7
Body damage- 11•2
Body electrical systems - 12•1 et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 11•1 et seq
Bonnet- 11•4
Bonnet lock/release cable- 11•4
Boot lid- 11•4
Boot lid lock- 11•5
Bores- 2A•33
Brake checks- 1•12,
Braking system- 9•1 et seq
ABS components - 9•2, 9•16
backplate - 9•12
bleeding the brakes - 9•3
brake caliper - 9•8
brake disc - 9•10
brake drum - 9•11
brake fluid pipes and hoses - 9•18
brake lamp switch - 12•5
brake pads - 9•4
brake pedal - 9•21
brake shoes - 9•6
disc shield - 9•13
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•17
fluid - 0•13, 0•17handbrake adjustment - 9•18
handbrake cables - 9•19
handbrake lever - 9•20
master cylinder - 9•13
pressure valves - 9•18
vacuum servo unit - 9•15
wheel cylinder - 9•11
Bulbs- 12•2, 12•7, 12•11
Bumpers- 11•11
CCables:
bonnet release - 11•4
clutch - 6•2
handbrake - 9•19
selector automatic transmission - 7B•4
speedometer - 12•18
throttle - 4A•5, 4B•9
Caliper (brake)- 9•8
Camber- 10•1, 10•24
Camshaft- 2A•19, 2B•6
Camshaft housing- 2A•18
Camshaft oil seals- 2A•18
Capacities- 1•2
Carbon canister- 4C•4
Carburettor- 4A•5, 4A•11
Carpets- 11•2
Castor- 10•1, 10•24
Catalytic converter- 4C•3
Central door locking- 12•16
Centre console- 11•18
Cigarette lighter- 12•5
Clock- 12•6
Clutch- 6•1 et seq
cable - 6•2
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
pedal - 6•3
release bearing - 6•6
removal, inspection and refitting - 6•3
Coil- 5•9
Coil spring (rear)- 10•12, 10•15
Compression test- 2A•8
Computer components- 12•7
Connecting rods- 2A•29
Contents- 0•2
Control units- 4B•16, 7B•5
Conversion factors- REF•2
Coolant- 0•12, 0•17, 1•2, 3•3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems-
3•1 et seq
blower motor - 3•7
coolant level sensor - 3•5
coolant pump - 3•4
cooling fan - 3•5
draining - 3•2
expansion tank - 3•5
fan switch - 3•6
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
filling - 3•2
flushing - 3•2
heater control panel - 3•6
heater matrix - 3•7
radiator - 3•3temperature gauge sender - 3•6
thermostat - 3•4
vents - 3•8
Courtesy lamp switch- 12•5
Crankcase ventilation system- 2A•7
Crankshaft- 2A•31
Crankshaft oil seals- 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
Cylinder bores- 2A•33
Cylinder head- 2A•19, 2A•22, 2B•7DDents- 11•2
Depressurising fuel system- 4B•5
Differential bearing oil seal- 7A•3
Dimensions and weights- REF•1
Disc (brake)- 9•10
Distributor- 5•10
Door- 11•6
handle - 11•7
inner trim panel - 11•6
lock key battery - 1•13
mirror - 11•11
Driveshafts- 8•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
gaiter - 8•4
joint renewal - 8•4
Drum (brake)- 9•11
EEarth fault finding- 12•2
ECU’s - 4B•16, 7B•5
EGR components- 4C•2
Electric windows- 12•15
Electrical fault finding- 12•2
Electrical system (body)- 12•1 et seq
Electrical system- 0•14, 5•2
Electrical system fault diagnosis- REF•12,
REF•18
Electronic control units- 4B•16, 7B•5
Engine:
bearings - 2A•31
camshaft - 2A•19, 2B•6
camshaft housing - 2A•18
camshaft oil seals - 2A•18, 2B•6
codes - 2A•1, 2B•1
compartment - 0•10, 1•5
compression test - 2A•8
connecting rods - 2A•29
crankcase ventilation - 2A•7
crankshaft - 2A•31
crankshaft oil seals - 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
cylinder bores - 2A•33
cylinder head - 2A•19, 2A•22, 2B•7
dismantling - 2A•12
DOHC - 2B•1 et seq
electrical systems - 5•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•13
flexplate (automatic transmission) - 2A•26
flywheel - 2A•26
main and big-end bearings - 2A•31
mountings (engine/transmission) - 2A•12,
2B•3
Index REF•25
REF
Note:References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”