light OPEL CALIBRA 1988 Service Manual PDF

25Flywheel -removal, inspection
and refitting
4
Note: New flywheel securing bolts must he
used on refitting. Certain models are fitted
with a ‘Pot type’ flywheel. Although, it has a
deeply recessed surface for the clutch disc,
the operations below are the same.
Removal
1If not already done, remove the clutch,
(Chapter 6), and the starter motor, (Chapter 5).
2If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the
clutch release bearing and its guide sleeve, as
described in Chapter 6.
3Although the flywheel bolt holes are offset
so that the flywheel can only be fitted in one
position, it will make refitting easier if
alignment marks are made between the
flywheel and the end of the crankshaft.
4Prevent the flywheel from turning by
jamming the ring gear teeth using a large
screwdriver or similar tool. Access is most
easily obtained through the starter motor
aperture if the engine is in the vehicle.
5Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove
the flywheel (see illustration). Take care, as
the flywheel is heavy!
Inspection
6With the flywheel removed, it can be
inspected as follows.
7If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are
badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will
be necessary to remove the ring and fit a new
one.
8The old ring can be split with a cold chisel,
after making a cut with a hacksaw blade
between two gear teeth. Take great care not
to damage the flywheel during this operation,
and use eye protectors always. Once the ring
has been split, it will spread apart and can be
lifted from the flywheel.
9The new ring gear must be heated to 180 to
230°C (356 to 446°F) and unless facilities for
heating by oven or flame are available, leave
the fitting to a dealer or motor engineering
works. The new ring gear must not be
overheated during this work, or the temper of
the metal will be altered.10The ring should be tapped gently down
onto its register, and left to cool naturally -the
contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure
that it is a secure and permanent fit.
11If the clutch friction disc contact surface
of the flywheel is scored, or on close
inspection, show’s evidence of small hairline
cracks (caused by overheating), it may be
possible to have the flywheel surface ground.
This is provided that the overall thickness of
the flywheel is not reduced too much. Consult
a specialist engine repairer and if it is not
possible, renew the flywheel complete.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13Align the previously made marks on the
flywheel and crankshaft, and fit new flywheel
securing bolts. Tighten them to the specified
torque in the two stages given in the Specifi-
cations, whilst preventing the flywheel from
turning, as during removal (see illustrations).
14Where applicable, refit the clutch release
bearing, guide sleeve, and the clutch, as
described in Chapter 6.
26Flexplate (automatic
transmission) -removal and
refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the transmission (Chapter 7B).
2Prevent the flexplate from turning by
jamming its ring gear teeth using a large
screwdriver or similar tool.
3Unbolt and remove the flexplate. Examine
the bolts and renew them all as a set if there is
the slightest doubt about their condition.
4The ring gear can be checked, and renewed
if necessary, as described in Section 25.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. If the bolts are to be re-used, use a
wire brush to clean their threads, apply a few
drops of thread-locking compound (Vauxhall
Part No 90167347, or equivalent) to the
threads of each bolt on refitting. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.6Refit the transmission, refer to Chapter 7B if
necessary.
27Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
3
Renewal
1Remove the timing belt and the rear timing
belt cover, as described in Section 11.
2Ensure that the Woodruff key is removed
from the end of the crankshaft.
3Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a
self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with
pliers to extract the seal. Several attempts
may be necessary. Be careful not to damage
the sealing face of the crankshaft.
4Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.
5Before fitting the new oil seal, steps must
be taken to protect the oil seal lips from
damage, and from turning back on the
shoulder at the front end of the crankshaft.
Grease the seal lips, and then wind tape
around the end of the crankshaft to form a
gentle taper.
6Tap the seal into position using a large
socket or tube, until the seal is flush with the
outer face of the oil pump housing.
7Refit the rear timing belt cover and the
timing belt tension the timing belt as
described in Section 11.
2A•26SOHC engine procedures
25.13C . . .and then through the
specified angle -
1.6 litre engine25.13B Tighten the flywheel securing bolts
to the specified toque . . .25.13A Tool for locking flywheel fitted to
engine-to-transmission bolt hole -
1.6 litre engine
25.5 Removing the flywheel -
1.6 litre engine

19Note that the central bearing shells have
thrust flanges which control crankshaft
endfloat (see illustration). Note also that the
shells fitted to the crankcase all have oil duct
holes, while only the centre main bearing cap
shell has an oil duct hole.
20When the shells are firmly located in the
crankcase and the bearing caps, lubricate
them with clean engine oil.
21Fill the lips of a new crankshaft rear oil
seal with grease, and fit it to the end of the
crankshaft.
22Carefully lower the crankshaft into
position in the crankcase (see illustration).
23If necessary, seat the crankshaft using
light blows with a rubber hammer on the
crankshaft balance webs.
24Lubricate the main bearing journals and
shells (see illustration), and then fit numbers
2, 3 and 4 main bearing caps, and tighten the
new bolts as far as possible by hand.25Fill the side grooves of the rear main
bearing cap with RTV jointing compound
(Vauxhall part No 90485251, or equivalent).
Coat the lower surfaces of the bearing cap
with sealing compound (Vauxhall part No 15
04 200, or equivalent), (see illustrations). Fit
the bearing cap, and tighten the new bolts as
far as possible by hand.
26Fit the front (No 1) main bearing cap, and
tighten the new bolts as far as possible by
hand, ensuring that the bearing cap is exactly
flush with the end face of the cylinder block.
27Working from the centre bearing cap
outwards, tighten the bearing cap securing
bolts to the specified torque in the two stages
given in the Specifications; i.e. tighten all bolts
to Stage 1, then tighten all bolts to Stage 2
and Stage 3 (see illustrations).28When all bolts have been fully tightened,
inject further RTV jointing compound into the
side grooves of the rear main bearing cap,
until it is certain that they are full.
29Now rotate the crankshaft, and check that
it turns freely, with no signs of binding or tight
spots.
30Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits, using a dial gauge,
or by inserting a feeler blade between the
thrust flange of the centre main bearing shell
and the machined surface of the crankshaft
(see illustrations). Before measuring, ensure
that the crankshaft is fully forced towards one
end of the crankcase, to give the widest
possible gap at the measuring location.
Incorrect endfloat will most likely be due to
crankshaft wear or to incorrect regrinding,
assuming that the correct bearing shells have
been fitted.
2A•32SOHC engine procedures
34.19 Fitting a central main bearing shell.
Note thrust flanges -
2.0 litre SOHC engine34.24 Lubricate the main bearing shells
before fitting the caps -
2.0 litre SOHC engine
34.30B . . .or a feeler blade -
2.0 litre SOHC engine
34.27A Tighten the main bearing cap bolts
to the specified torque . . .
34.27B . . .then through the specified
angle - 2.0 litre SOHC engine34.30A Check crankshaft endfloat using a
dial gauge . . .
34.25B . . .and the lower surfaces with
sealing compound -
2.0 litre SOHC engine34.25A Fill the side grooves of the rear
main bearing cap with RTV jointing
compound . . .
34.22 Lowering the crankshaft into the
crankcase -
2.0 litre SOHC engine

31Refit the previously removed
components, referring to the relevant
Sections of this Chapter.
35Crankshaft and bearings -
examination
4
Examination
1Examine the crankpin and main journal
surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches, and
check the ovality and taper of the crankpins
and main journals. If the bearing surface
dimensions do not fall within the tolerance
ranges given in the Specifications at the
beginning of this Chapter, the crankpins
and/or main journals will have to be reground.
2Big-end and crankpin wear is accompanied
by distinct metallic knocking, particularly
noticeable when the engine is pulling from low
revs, and some loss of oil pressure.
3Main bearing and main journal wear is
accompanied by severe engine vibration rumble
- getting progressively worse as engine rev’s
increase - and again by loss of oil pressure.
4If the crankshaft requires regrinding, take it
to an engine reconditioning specialist, who
will machine it for you and supply the correct
undersize bearing shells.
5Inspect the big-end and main bearing shells
for signs of general wear, scoring, pitting and
scratches. The bearings should be matt grey
in colour. With leadindium bearings, should a
trace of copper colour be noticed, the
bearings are badly worn, as the lead bearing
material has worn away to expose the indium
underlay. Renew the bearings if they are in
this condition, or if there are any signs of
scoring or pitting. You are strongly advised
to renew the bearings - regardless of their
condition at time of major overhaul.
Refitting used bearings is a false economy.
6The undersizes available are designed to
correspond with crankshaft regrind sizes. Thebearings are in fact, slightly more than the
stated undersize, as running clearances have
been allowed for during their manufacture.
7Main and big-end bearing shells can be
identified as to size by the marking on the
back of the shell. Standard size shell bearings
are marked STD or .00, undersize shells are
marked with the undersize such as 0.020 u/s.
This marking method applies only to
replacement bearing shells, and not to those
used during production.
8An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by using a Plastigage. The crankshaft
is located in the main bearings (and, if
necessary, the big-end bearings), and the
Plastigage filament is located across the
journal. Vauxhall recommend that the
crankshaft journal and bearing shells are
lightly lubricated, to prevent the Plastigage
from tearing as the bearing cap is removed.
The bearing cap should be fitted, and the
bolts tightened to the specified torque. The
cap is then removed, and the width of the
filament is checked against a scale that shows
the bearing running clearance. The clearance
should be compared with that given in the
Specifications.
9Where applicable, check the teeth of the
crankshaft TDC sensor wheel for damage
(see illustration). If evident, the crankshaft
must be renewed.
10Similarly, check the condition of the pins
in the front crankshaft balance weight, which
serve as detect points for the plug-in
diagnostic sensor used by Vauxhall dealers
(see illustration).
36Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation
4
Examination
1Examine the cylinder bores for taper,
ovality, scoring and scratches. Start bycarefully examining the top of the cylinder
bores. If they are at all worn, a very slight
ridge will be found on the thrust side. This
marks the top of the piston ring travel. The
owner will have a good indication of the bore
wear before dismantling the engine, or
removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil
consumption, accompanied by blue smoke
from the exhaust, is a sure sign of worn
cylinder bores and piston rings.
2Measure the bore diameter across the
block, and just below any ridge. This can be
done with an internal micrometer or a dial
gauge. Compare this with the diameter of the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If no measuring instruments are
available, use a piston from which the rings
have been removed, and measure the gap
between it and the cylinder wall with a feeler
blade. Refer to the Specifications. If the
cylinder wear exceeds the permitted
tolerances, then the cylinders will need
reboring, in which case note the following
points:
a)Piston and cylinder bores are closely
matched in production. The actual
diameter of the piston is indicated by
numbers on its crown; the same numbers
stamped on the crankcase indicate the
bore diameter
b)After reboring has taken place, the
cylinder bores should be measured
accurately and oversize pistons selected
from the grades available to give the
specified piston-to-bore clearance
c)For grading purposes, the piston diameter
is measured across the bottom of the skirt
3If the wear is marginal and within the
tolerances given, new special piston rings can
be fitted to offset the wear.
4Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage, and
use a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensure that they are
unobstructed.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•33
35.10 Check the condition of the pins (arrowed) in the front
crankshaft balance weight - 2.0 litre SOHC engine35.9 Check the condition of the TDC sensor wheel teeth at the
front of the crankshaft - 2.0 litre SOHC engine
2A

C16 NZ2, 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, remove the
timing belt. Details are as described in
Chapter 2A.
3Remove timing belt tension roller from oil
pump, where applicable.
4Unscrew and remove the coolant pump
securing bolts (see illustration).
5Withdraw the coolant pump from the
cylinder block, and recover the O-ring (see
illustrations). It may be necessary to tap the
pump lightly with a plastic-faced hammer to
free it from the cylinder block.
6If desired, the rear timing belt cover can be
removed from the pump by rotating the cover
to release it from the flange on the pump.
7No overhaul of the coolant pump is
possible, and if faulty, the unit must be
renewed.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
9Use a new O-ring when refitting the pump.
Before refitting the pump, smear the pump
mounting face in the cylinder block and the O-
ring with a silicone grease or petroleum jelly.
10Do not fully tighten the pump securing
bolts until the timing belt has been fitted and
tensioned.
11Refit and tension the timing belt, as
described in Chapter 2A.
12If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the
cooling system, as described in Section 4.
DOHC models
Removal
13Remove the engine undershield.
14If the engine is in the vehicle, drain the
cooling system, as described in Section 2.
15Remove the timing belt, camshaft
sprockets, crankshaft sprocket, timing belt
tensioner and idler rollers, and the timing belt
rear cover, as described in Chapter 2B.
16Proceed as described in paragraphs 4
and 5.
17No overhaul of the coolant pump is
possible, and if faulty, the unit must be
renewed.
Refitting
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.19Always use a new O-ring. Before fitting
the pump, smear the pump mating face in the
cylinder block and the O-ring with a silicone
grease or petroleum jelly.
20Refit the pump, and ensure that the lugs
on the pump and the cylinder block are
aligned before tightening the pump securing
bolts (see illustration).
21Refit the remaining components, and
tension the timing belt, as described in
Chapter 2B.
22If the engine is in the vehicle, refill the
cooling system, as described in Section 4.
Replace the undershield.
12Cooling fan - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan,
noting the location of the wiring connector for
use when refitting.
3Unscrew the two upper fan shroud securing
bolts from the top corners of the shroud, then
tilt the assembly back slightly towards the
engine, and withdraw it upwards away from
the radiator (see illustration).
4To separate the fan motor from the shroud,
unscrew the three securing nuts. If desired,
the fan blades can be separated from the
motor by removing the securing spring clip
from the end of the motor shaft.5No spare parts are available for the motor,
and if the unit is faulty, it must be renewed.
Refitting
6Reassembly (where applicable), and
refitting are reversals of the dismantling and
removal procedures, but ensure that the lower
end of the fan shroud locates correctly on the
radiator.
7On completion, start the engine and run it
until it reaches normal operating temperature,
then continue to run the engine and check
that the cooling fan cuts in and functions
correctly.
13Expansion tank and coolant
level sensor -removal and
refitting
3
Expansion tank
Removal
1The expansion tank is secured by a single
screw at its front edge. If the tank is to be
moved for access purposes, it should be
possible to move it sufficiently within the
confines of the hoses once the securing
screw has been removed. If the tank is to be
removed completely, continue as follows.
2Disconnect the two hoses from the top of
the expansion tank, and suspend them above
the height of the engine to prevent coolant loss.
3Remove the tank securing screw, then
manipulate the tank from its location, holding
it as high as possible above the engine.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
11.5B . . .and recover the O-ring -
2.0 litre SOHC model
12.3 Withdrawing the fan shroud assembly
- 2.0 litre SOHC model11.20 Lugs (arrowed) on coolant pump
and cylinder block must be aligned -
DOHC models
11.5A Withdraw the coolant pump . . .11.4 Coolant pump securing bolt
(arrowed) - 2.0 litre SOHC model
3

REF•6Tools and Working Facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
and minor repair tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert) -
petrol models
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol
models
MSet of feeler gauges
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches.
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by tools from the Speciallist:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive
Clutch plate alignment setPiston ring compressorSpline bit set
Valve spring compressor

Tools and Working Facilities REF•7
REF
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a dealer.
MValve spring compressor
MValve grinding tool
MPiston ring compressor
MPiston ring removal/installation tool
MCylinder bore hone
MBalljoint separator
MCoil spring compressors (where applicable)
MTwo/three-legged hub and bearing puller
MImpact screwdriver
MMicrometer and/or vernier calipers
MDial gauge
MStroboscopic timing light
MDwell angle meter/tachometer
MUniversal electrical multi-meter
MCylinder compression gauge
MHand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
MClutch plate alignment set
MBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
MBush and bearing removal/installation set
MStud extractors
MTap and die set
MLifting tackle
MTrolley jack
Buying tools
Reputable motor accessory shops and
superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market
stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of
good tools around at reasonable prices, but
always aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, a
suitable working area becomes essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw
opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints etc, which become necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
Stroboscopic timing light Stud extractor setCompression tester
Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)Micrometer set

REF•8MOTTest Checks
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeMTest the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
MCheck that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
MDepress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.MCheck that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
MCheck the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
MExamine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
MMove the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
MCheck that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormalmovement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
MThe windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

MOTTest Checks REF•9
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND
REF

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction

MFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine stalls
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine lacks power
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
MBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
MClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
MLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
MFaulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 12).
MWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A).
MOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A).
Engine runs-on after switching off
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MFaulty fuel cut-off solenoid - carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
MIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Whistling or wheezing noises
MLeaking inlet manifold or carburettor/throttle body gasket
(Chapter 4A or 4B).
MLeaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-manifold joint
(Chapter 4C).
MLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4A, 4B, 4C, 5, 9 and 12).
MBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).
Tapping or rattling noises
MWorn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
Knocking or thumping noises
MWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MPiston slap (most noticeable when cold), (Chapter 2A).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
REF•14Fault Finding
Engine (continued)