weight OPEL CALIBRA 1988 Service Repair Manual

4Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
withdraw the pump from the camshaft
housing (see illustration).
5Recover the plastic insulating block.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the fuel hoses are reconnected to their
correct locations as noted during removal,
and tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
7Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion. If leakage is evident, stop the
engine immediately and rectify the problem
without delay. Note that the engine may take
a longer time than usual to start when the
pump has been removed, as the pump refills
with fuel.
7Fuel tank - removal,
examination and refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”) placed under the body side
members.
4Disconnect the exhaust system front
flexible joint. Suspend the front section of the
exhaust system with wire or string from the
underbody.
5Disconnect the rear section of the exhaust
system from its rubber mountings, and allow it
to rest on the rear suspension torsion beam. It
is advisable to support the rear section of the
exhaust at its front end, with wire or string
from the underbody, to avoid straining the
system.
6Unclip the handbrake cable from the
bracket on the left-hand fuel tank securing
strap.
7Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
level sender unit located in the right-hand side
of the fuel tank. Make a note of the hosepositions for use when refitting. Be prepared
for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses,
to prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
9Disconnect the filler and vent hoses from
the rear of the fuel tank.
10Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack with an interposed block of wood.
11Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps, then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the
disconnection of the remaining vent hose.
12With the aid of an assistant, withdraw the
tank sideways from the right-hand side of the
vehicle. Note that as the tank is withdrawn,
some residual fuel may be released.
Examination
13If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel level sender unit, as
described in Section 8. This procedure should
be carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it
is vital to take adequate fire precautions -
refer to the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual for further details.
14Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional. Do not under
any circumstances attempt to weld or solder a
fuel tank. Removal of all residual fuel vapour
requires several hours of specialist cleaning.
Refitting
15Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
16On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the fuel tank has been removed,
as the pump refills with fuel.
8Fuel level sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clear metal container that can be sealed.
3Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
4The sender unit is located in the right-hand
side at the fuel tank.
5Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank, so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.6Disconnect the fuel hoses from the sender
unit. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and take
adequate fire precautions. Plug the open ends
of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel loss.
7Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel
level sender unit.
8To remove the sender unit, engage a flat
piece of metal as a lever between two of the
slots on the sender unit rim, and turn it anti-
clockwise.
9Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
10Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
12Examine the condition of the sealing ring,
and renew if necessary.
13Ensure that the marks made on the
sender unit and fuel tank before removal are
aligned.
14Ensure that the hoses are reconnected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. Also check
that the fuel gauge reads correctly. If leakage
is evident, stop the engine immediately and
rectify the problem without delay. Note that
the engine may take a longer time than usual
to start when the sender unit has been
removed, as the fuel pump refills with fuel.
9Fuel vapour separator (1.6
and 1.8 litre models) -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel vapour separator is located on a
bracket attached to the side of the
carburettor.
2Note the locations of the three fuel hoses,
labelling them if necessary for use when
refitting, then disconnect the hoses from the
vapour separator. Be prepared for fuel
spillage, and take adequate fire precautions.
Plug the open ends of the hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel spillage.
3Remove the two securing screws, and lift
the vapour separator from its bracket.
4Check the body of the separator for cracks
or leaks before refitting, and renew if
necessary.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the three fuel hoses are connected to
their correct locations as noted during
removal.
6Run the engine and check the hose
connections for leaks on completion. If
leakage is evident, stop the engine
immediately and rectify the problem without
delay.
4A•4Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
6.4 Withdrawing the fuel pump and plastic
insulating block - 1.6 litre model

13Clean any foreign matter from the float
chamber. Renew the float, the float needle
valve and seat if wear is evident, or if the float
is punctured or otherwise damaged. Check
that the needle valve closes completely before
the float reaches the top of its movement. See
Section 15, for details of float level checking.
14Renew the diaphragms in the part-load
enrichment valve and in the accelerator pump.
If additional pump or valve parts are supplied
in the overhaul kit, renew these parts also.
15Further dismantling is not recommended.
Pay particular attention to the throttle opening
mechanism arrangement if it is decided to
dismantle it; the interlocking arrangement is
important.
16Reassemble in the reverse order to
dismantling. Use new gaskets and seals
throughout; lubricate linkages with a smear of
molybdenum based grease.
Refitting
17Carry out the following procedure before
refitting.
a)Position the fast idle adjustment screw on
the highest step of the fast idle cam.
b)Use a gauge rod or twist drill of the
specified diameter to measure the
opening of the primary throttle valve.
c)Adjust if necessary at the fast idle
adjustment screw.
d)Note that this is a preliminary adjustment;
final adjustment of the fast idle speed
should take place with the engine running.
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
renew the gasket(s).
19After refitting, carry out the following
checks and adjustments.
20Check the throttle cable free play and
adjust if necessary, as described in Section 11.
21Check and if necessary top-up the
coolant level, as described in Chapter 3.
22Check and if necessary adjust the idle
speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.
14Idle speed and mixture -
adjustment
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding.
To carry out the adjustments, an accurate
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required
1To check the idle speed and mixture
adjustment, the following conditions must be
met:
a)The engine must be at normal operating
temperature
b)All electrical consumers (cooling fan,
heater blower, headlamps, etc.) must be
switched off
c)The ignition timing and spark plug gaps
must be correctly adjusted - see Chapters
1 and 5
d)The throttle cable free play must be
correctly adjusted - see Section 11
e)The air inlet trunking must be free from
leaks, and the air filter must be cleanf)On automatic models, always select
position, “P”.
2Connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser to the vehicle, according to the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
3Start the engine, and run it at 2000 rpm for
approximately 30 seconds, then allow it to
idle. If the idle speed is outside the specified
limits, adjust by means of the throttle stop
screw (see illustration).
4When the idle speed is correct, check the
CO level in the exhaust gas. If it is outside the
specified limits, adjust by means of the idle
mixture adjustment screw. In production, the
screw is covered by a tamperproof plug;
ensure that no local or national laws are being
broken before removing the plug (see
illustration).
5On automatic models, when position “D” is
selected (all electrical systems switched off),
the idle speed should not drop perceptibly. If
it does, the vehicle should be taken to a
Vauxhall dealer for the idle-up system to be
checked using special Vauxhall test
equipment.
6With the idle mixture correct, readjust the
idle speed if necessary.
7If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and continue when the cooling fan stops.
8When both idle speed and mixture are
correctly set, stop the engine and disconnect
the test equipment.
9Fit a new tamperproof plug to the idle
mixture adjustment screw, where this is
required by law.
15Needle valve and float -
removal, inspection and
refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
new carburettor top cover gasket must be
used on reassembly. A tachometer and an
exhaust gas analyser will be required to check
the idle speed and mixture on completion
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the round air cleaner, on
applicable models. On other models,
disconnect the air trunking from the air
cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and
breather hose from the air box. Extract the
three securing screws and lift off the air box,
complete with air trunking.
3Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the
carburettor.
4Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the
carburettor. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate fire precautions. Plug the end
of the hose, to prevent dirt ingress and further
fuel spillage.
5Identify the automatic choke coolant hose
locations as an aid to refitting, then
disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for
coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or
secure them with their ends facing upwards,
to prevent further coolant loss.
6Disconnect the choke heater wiring plug.
7Disconnect the lower vacuum hoses from
the choke pull-down unit.
8Remove the four carburettor top cover
securing screws, noting their locations, as two
lengths of screw are used (see illustration).
9Lift off the top cover and recover the
gasket.
Inspection
10Hold the cover vertically, so that the float
is hanging from its pivot. Then tilt the cover
until the float needle valve is just closed - the
needle spring must not be compressed by the
weight of the float.
11Measure the distance, dimension x (see
illustration),from the bottom of the float to
the gasket surface on the top cover’s
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•7
15.8 Carburettor top cover securing
screws (arrowed)14.4 Tamperproof plug (arrowed) covering
idle mixture adjustment screw
14.3 Carburettor idle speed adjustment
(throttle stop) screw (arrowed)
4A

underside. If the distance measured exceeds,
or is less than, that specified, the float weight
is incorrect and the float must be renewed.
12When the float level is known to be
correct, reassemble the carburettor, using a
new top cover gasket. Check the idle speed
and mixture settings as described in Section
14.
13Using a pin punch, tap the float retaining
pin from the base of the top cover, and lift out
the float and needle valve.
14Inspect the components for damage, and
renew as necessary. Check the needle valve
for wear, and check the float for leaks by
shaking it to see if it contains petrol.
15Clean the mating faces of the carburettor
body and top cover.
Refitting
16Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
17After refitting, check the float and needle
valve for full and free movement.
18Use a new gasket between the top cover
and the carburettor body.
19Ensure that all hoses, pipes and wires are
correctly reconnected.
20On completion, check and if necessary
top-up the coolant level, as described in
Chapter 3, and check and if necessary adjust
the idle speed and mixture, as described in
Section 14.
16Secondary throttle valve
vacuum diaphragm - testing,
removal and refitting
3
Note: The diaphragm unit must be renewed in
its entirety, as no spares are available
Testing
1If a vacuum source incorporating a gauge is
available, apply approximately 300 mbars (9 in
Hg) to the diaphragm unit, at the hose nearest
the carburettor body. Close off the vacuum
source, and check that the vacuum is held. If
there is a leak, rectify or renew the leaking
component. Alternately, testing of a suspect
vacuum unit must be by the substitution of a
known good item.
Removal
2Remove the air cleaner, on early models.
On later models, disconnect the air trunking
from the air cleaner, then disconnect the
vacuum pipe air breather hose from the air
box. Extract the three securing screws and lift
off the air box, complete with air trunking.
3Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
diaphragm unit.
4Prise the diaphragm operating rod balljoint
from the secondary throttle valve linkage.
5On 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, remove the two
securing screws and lift the vapour separator
from the bracket. Move the vapour separator
to one side, taking care not to strain the fuel
hoses.6Remove the three securing screws, and
withdraw the diaphragm unit complete with its
bracket from the carburettor body.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
17Power valve diaphragm -
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner, on early models.
On later models, disconnect the air trunking
from the air cleaner, then disconnect the
vacuum pipe and breather hose from the airbox. Extract the three securing screws and lift
off the air box, complete with air trunking.
3Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the
area around the power valve housing.
4Remove the two securing screws, and lift
off the power valve cover, spring, and
diaphragm assembly.
Refitting
5Clean the mating faces of the cover and
housing.
6Locate the spring on the cover and
diaphragm assembly, ensuring that it is
correctly seated, then press the diaphragm
assembly and cover together. Note that the
vacuum hole in the diaphragm must align with
the corresponding holes in the housing flange
and cover.
7Further refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated
(see illustration).
18Accelerator pump - testing,
removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Testing
1It will be necessary to feed the float
chamber with fuel from a small reservoir
during this test.
2Position the primary barrel over an accurate
measuring glass. Fully open and close the
throttle ten times, taking approximately one
second for each opening, and pausing for
three seconds after each return stroke. Make
sure that the fast idle cam is not restricting
throttle travel at either end.
3Measure the quantity of fuel delivered, and
compare this with the specified value.
4A•8Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
15.11 Measuring the float level “X”
17.7 Carburettor power valve components
1 Cover
2 Spring3 Diaphragm
assembly

HEI (High Energy Ignition)
system
5This comprises of a breakerless distributor
and an electronic switching/amplifier module
along with the coil and spark plugs.
6The electrical impulse that is required to
switch off the low tension circuit is generated
by a magnetic trigger coil in the distributor. A
trigger wheel rotates within a magnetic stator,
the magnetic field being provided by a
permanent magnet. The magnetic field across
the two poles (stator arm and trigger wheel) is
dependent on the air gap between the two
poles. When the air gap is at its minimum, the
trigger wheel arm is directly opposite the
stator arm, and this is the trigger point. As the
magnetic flux between the stator arm and
trigger wheel varies, a voltage is induced in the
trigger coil mounted below the trigger wheel.
This voltage is sensed and then amplified by
the electronic module, and used to switch off
the low tension circuit. There is one trigger arm
and one stator arm for each cylinder.
7The ignition advance is a function of the
distributor, and is controlled both
mechanically and by a vacuum-operated
system. The mechanical governor mechanism
consists of two weights that move out from
the distributor shaft due to centrifugal force as
the engine speed rises. As the weights move
outwards, they rotate the trigger wheel
relative to the distributor shaft and so
advance the spark. The weights are held in
position by two light springs, and it is the
tension of the springs that is largely
responsible for correct spark advancement.
8The vacuum control consists of a
diaphragm, one side of which is connected by
way of a small-bore hose to the carburettor,
and the other side to the distributor.
Depression in the inlet manifold and
carburettor, which varies with engine speed
and throttle position, causes the diaphragm to
move, so moving the baseplate and
advancing or retarding the spark. A fine
degree of control is achieved by a spring in
the diaphragm assembly.
MSTS-i (Microprocessor-
controlled Spark Timing System)
9This system comprises a “Hall-effect”
distributor (or a crankshaft speed/position
sensor on X 16 SZ models), a manifold pressure
sensor, an oil temperature sensor, and a
module, along with the coil and spark plugs.
10On 1.6 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a sensor in the
distributor. A trigger vane rotates in the gap
between a permanent magnet and the sensor.
The trigger vane has four cut-outs, one for
each cylinder. When one of the trigger vane
cut-outs is in line with the sensor, magnetic
flux can pass between the magnet and the
sensor. When a trigger vane segment is in line
with the sensor, the magnetic flux is diverted
through the trigger vane away from thesensor. The sensor senses the change in
magnetic flux, and sends an impulse to the
MSTS-i module, which switches off the low
tension circuit.
11On 1.8 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a crankshaft
speed/position sensor, which is activated by a
toothed wheel on the crankshaft. The toothed
wheel has 35 equally spaced teeth, with a gap
in the 36th position. The gap is used by the
sensor to determine the crankshaft position
relative to TDC (top dead centre) of No 1 piston.
12Engine load information is supplied to the
MSTS-i module by a pressure sensor, which
is connected to the carburettor by a vacuum
pipe. Additional information is supplied by an
oil temperature sensor. The module selects
the optimum ignition advance setting based
on the information received from the sensors.
The degree of advance can thus be constantly
varied to suit the prevailing engine conditions.
Multec, with MSTS-i
13The ignition system is fully electronic in
operation and incorporates the Electronic
Control Unit (ECU) mounted in the driver’s
footwell. A distributor (driven off the camshaft
left-hand end and incorporating the amplifier
module) as well as the octane coding plug,
the spark plugs, HT leads, ignition HT coil and
associated wiring.
14The ECU controls both the ignition system
and the fuel injection system, integrating the
two in a complete engine management
system. Refer to Chapters 4B and 4C for
further information that is not detailed here.
15For ignition the ECU receives information
in the form of electrical impulses or signals
from the distributor (giving it the engine speed
and crankshaft position), from the coolant
temperature sensor (giving it the engine
temperature) and from the manifold absolute
pressure sensor (giving it the load on the
engine). In addition, the ECU receives input
from the octane coding plug (to provide
ignition timing appropriate to the grade of fuel
used) and from, where fitted, the automatic
transmission control unit (to smooth gear
changing by retarding the ignition as changes
are made).
16All these signals are compared by the
ECU with set values pre-programmed
(mapped) into its memory. Considering this
information, the ECU selects the ignition
timing appropriate to those values and
controls the ignition HT coil by way of the
amplifier module accordingly.
17The system is so sensitive that, at idle
speed, the ignition timing may be constantly
changing; this should be remembered if trying
to check the ignition timing.
18The system fitted to C18 NZ models, is
similar to that described above, except that
the amplifier module is separate. The ECU
determines engine speed and crankshaft
position using a sensor mounted in the
right-hand front end of the engine’s cylinderblock; this registers with a 58-toothed disc
mounted on the crankshaft so that the gap left
by the missing two teeth provides a reference
point, so enabling the ECU to recognise TDC.
19Note that this simplifies the distributor’s
function, which is merely to distribute the HT
pulse to the appropriate spark plug; it has no
effect whatsoever on the ignition timing.
DIS (Direct Ignition System)
20On all X16 SZ engines, and on C20 XE
(DOHC) engines from 1993-on, a DIS (Direct
Ignition System) module is used in place of
the distributor and coil. On the X16 SZ engine
the DIS module is attached to the camshaft
housing in the position normally occupied by
the distributor. On the C20 XE engine, a
camshaft phase sensor is attached to the
cylinder head at the non-driven end of the
exhaust camshaft, in the position normally
occupied by the distributor. The DIS module
is attached, by a bracket, to the cylinder head
at the non-driven end of the inlet camshaft.
21The DIS module consists of two ignition
coils and an electronic control module housed
in a cast casing. Each ignition coil supplies
two spark plugs with HT voltage. One spark is
provided in a cylinder with its piston on the
compression stroke, and one spark is
provided to a cylinder with its piston on the
exhaust stroke. This means that a “wasted
spark” is supplied to one cylinder during each
ignition cycle, but this has no detrimental
effect. This system has the advantage that
there are no moving parts (therefore there is
no wear), and the system is largely
maintenance-free.
Motronic M4.1 and M1.5
22This system controls both the ignition and
the fuel injection systems.
23The Motronic module receives information
from a crankshaft speed/position sensor, an
engine coolant temperature sensor mounted
in the thermostat housing. A throttle position
sensor, an airflow meter, and on models fitted
with a catalytic converter, an oxygen sensor
mounted in the exhaust system (Chapter 4C).
24The module provides outputs to control
the fuel pump, fuel injectors, idle speed and
ignition circuit. Using the inputs from the
various sensors, the module computes the
optimum ignition advance, and fuel injector
pulse duration, to suit the prevailing engine
conditions. This system gives very accurate
control of the engine under all conditions,
improving fuel consumption and driveability,
and reducing exhaust gas emissions.
25Further details of the fuel injection system
components are given in Chapter 4B.
Motronic M2.5 and M2.8
26The system is similar to that described for
SOHC models, with the following differences.
27Along with the crankshaft speed/position
sensor, a “Hall-effect” distributor is used
(similar to that described in this Section, with
the MSTS-i system).
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5

6Bonnet - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the bonnet, and support it in the fully
open position.
2On models fitted with an underbonnet lamp,
disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the lamp from the bonnet and disconnect
the wiring. If the bonnet is to be refitted, to aid
routing of the wiring on refitting, tie a length of
string to the end of the wiring. Then withdraw
the wiring through the bonnet and untie the
string, leaving it in position in the bonnet.
3Similarly, disconnect the windscreen
washer fluid hose from the connector in the
bonnet, but tie the string to the connector, to
prevent it from slipping into an inaccessible
position in the bonnet.
4Mark the position of the hinges on the
bonnet.
5With the help of an assistant, support the
weight of the bonnet, then unscrew the
securing bolts from the hinges, and lift the
bonnet from the vehicle (see illustration). If the
bonnet is to be refitted, rest it carefully on rags
or cardboard, to avoid damaging the paint.
6If a new bonnet is to be fitted, transfer all
the serviceable fittings (rubber buffers, lock
striker, etc.), to it.
7If desired, the bonnet hinges can be
removed from the vehicle, after unscrewing
the three bolts in each case securing them to
the upper flanges of the front wings.
Refitting
8Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
9Align the hinges with the previously made
marks on the bonnet.10If the original bonnet is being refitted,
draw the windscreen washer fluid hose, and
where applicable, the underbonnet lamp
wiring, through the bonnet using the string.
11If the lock striker has been disturbed,
adjust it to the dimension shown (see
illustration), then tighten the locknut.
12If necessary, adjust the hinge bolts and
the front rubber buffers until a good fit is
obtained with the bonnet shut.
7Bonnet lock components -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the bonnet, and support it in the fully
open position.
2The bonnet lock hook is riveted to the
bonnet, and removal involves drilling out the
rivet. Secure the hook assembly with a new
rivet when refitting.
3To remove the bonnet lock striker from the
bonnet, loosen the locknut, then unscrew the
striker and recover the washers and spring.
When refitting, adjust the striker dimension as
described in Section 6, paragraph 11, before
tightening the locknut.
4To remove the locking spring, disconnect
the end of the bonnet release cable from the
spring. Then unhook the end of the spring
from the slot in the front body panel, and
manipulate the spring out through the top of
the panel, taking care not to damage the paint.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6On completion, close the bonnet and check
that the lock and the bonnet release
mechanism operate satisfactorily.
8Bonnet lock release cable -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the bonnet, and support it in the fully
open position.
2Unscrew the release cable clip from the
front body panel.
3Disconnect the end of the release cable
from the locking spring under the front body
panel.
4Disconnect the release cable from the
release handle in the driver’s footwell. If
necessary, remove the release handle from its
retainer for access to the cable end.
5Pull the cable assembly through the
grommet in the engine compartment
bulkhead into the engine compartment.
6Release the cable from any remaining clips
and cable-ties, and withdraw it from the
engine compartment.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the cable is correctly routed, and on
completion check the release mechanism for
satisfactory operation.
9Boot lid (Saloon models) -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the bonnet lid fully.
2On models with central locking, disconnect
the battery negative lead then disconnect the
wiring from the lock solenoid. If the boot lid is
11•4Bodywork and fittings
6.5 Lifting the bonnet from the vehicle
6.11 Bonnet lock striker adjustment
X = 40.0 to 45.0 mm (1.57 to 1.77 in) measured from bonnet panel to washer (9)
7 Locknut8 Spring9 Washer10 Striker pinTo aid refitting mark the
position of the bonnet
before removal.

to be refitted, tie a length of string to the end
of the wiring. Then feed the wiring through the
boot lid and untie the string, leaving it in
position in the boot lid to assist refitting.
3Mark the position of the hinges on the boot
lid.
4With the help of an assistant, support the
weight of the boot lid, then unscrew the
securing bolts from the hinges, and lift the
boot lid from the vehicle. If the boot lid is to be
refitted, rest it carefully on rags or cardboard,
to avoid damaging the paint.
5If a new boot lid is to be fitted, transfer all
the serviceable fittings (rubber buffers, lock
mechanism, etc.), to it.
6If desired, the boot lid hinge counter-
balance springs can be removed, but before
unhooking them from the vehicle body, note
their position so that they can be refitted in
their original positions (see illustration). Use
a lever to unhook the springs.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Align the hinges with the precisely made
marks on the boot lid.
9Where applicable, draw the central locking
solenoid wiring through the boot lid, using the
string.
10If necessary, adjust the hinge bolts and
the rubber buffer until a good fit is obtained
with the boot lid shut.
11If necessary, adjust the position of the
lock striker on the body, to achieve
satisfactory lock operation.
10Boot lid lock (Saloon
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Open the boot lid fully.
2Unscrew the two securing screws, then
withdraw the lock and disconnect the
operating rod.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if
necessary adjust the position of the lock
striker on the body, to achieve satisfactory
lock operation.
11Boot lid lock cylinder
(Saloon models) - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the boot lid fully.
2Unscrew the two securing nuts, then
withdraw the lock cylinder complete with the
housing, and disconnect the operating rods(s).
3To remove the lock cylinder from the
housing, insert the key into the lock, then
extract the circlip and the operating lever
assembly from the end of the lock cylinder,
and withdraw the cylinder from the housing.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check
the operations of the lock on completion (see
illustration).
12Tailgate (Hatchback models)
-removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Open the tailgate fully.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the tailgate trim panels.
4Disconnect all the relevant wiring now
exposed, and disconnect the washer fluid
hose.5If the original tailgate is to be refitted, tie
string to the ends of all the relevant wires, and
if necessary the washer fluid hose, then feed
the wiring and the hose through the top edge
of the tailgate. Untie the string, leaving it in
position in the tailgate to assist refitting.
6Prise off the rear roof trim panel, taking care
not to break the securing clips, and lower the
rear of the headlining slightly for access to the
tailgate hinge securing screws (see
illustrations). Mark the hinge positions on the
body.
7Have an assistant support the weight of the
tailgate, then disconnect the tailgate struts
from their mounting balljoints, with reference
to Section 15.
8Ensure that the tailgate is adequately
supported, then remove the hinge securing
screws and withdraw the tailgate from the
vehicle. If the tailgate is to be refitted, rest it
carefully on rags or cardboard, to avoid
damaging the paint.
9If desired, the hinges can be removed from
the tailgate by driving out the hinge pins.
10If the tailgate can be moved up and down
on its hinges due to wear in the hinge pins or
their holes, it may be possible to drill out the
holes and fit slightly oversize pins. Consult a
Vauxhall dealer for further advice.
11If a new tailgate is to be fitted, transfer all
serviceable components to it.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13Align the hinges with the previously made
marks on the body.
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
12.6B . . . for access to the tailgate hinge
screws12.6A Prise off the rear roof trim panel . . .
11.4 Boot lid/tailgate lock cylinder
components
1 Lock cylinder
2 Housing
3 Operating lever assembly
4 Circlip
9.6 Boot lid hinge counterbalance spring
locations - Saloon models
1 Position for basic boot lid
2 Position for boot lid with outer plastic
trim panel or spoiler
3 Position for boot lid with outer plastic
trim panel and spoiler
11

13Exhaust manifold - removal
and refitting
3
Note:New manifold-to-cylinder head, and
manifold-to-downpipe, gaskets must be used
on refitting. Exhaust manifolds on DOHC
models are of tubular design, which form part
of the front section of the exhaust.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs, if necessary labelling them to ensure
refitting to the correct cylinders.
3Loosen the clamp screw and disconnect
the air cleaner hot air tube from the shroud on
the manifold, if fitted. Remove the securing
screws and withdraw the hot air shroud from
the manifold.
4Working under the manifold, unscrew and
remove the four bolts securing the exhaust
downpipe to the manifold.
5If fitted, disconnect the oxygen sensor
wiring
6Separate the downpipe from the manifold,
and support with wire or string. Do not allow
the front section of the exhaust system to hang
under its own weight. Recover the gasket.
7Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw
the manifold from the cylinder head (see
illustration). Recover the gasket.
8It is possible that some of the manifold
studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder
head when the manifold securing nuts are
unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be
screwed back into the cylinder head once the
manifold has been removed, using two
manifold nuts locked together.
Refitting
9Refit the manifold using a new gasket, and
tighten the securing nuts to the specified
torque.
10Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the
manifold, using a new gasket and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque.
11Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
14Exhaust system - checking,
removal and refitting
2
Note: All relevant gaskets and/or sealing rings
should be renewed on refitting
Checking
1Periodically, the exhaust system should be
checked for signs of leaks or damage. Also
inspect the exhaust system rubber
mountings, and renew if necessary.
2Small holes or cracks can be repaired using
proprietary exhaust repair products, but
where more serious corrosion or damage is
evident, renewal will be necessary.
Removal
3The original factory-fitted exhaust system
consists of four separate sections, all of which
can be renewed individually.
4On models fitted with a catalytic converter,
an oxygen sensor is fitted to the front section
of the exhaust. The catalytic converter is fitted
in place of the front expansion box in the
conventional exhaust system. The
manufacturers do not specify any renewal
intervals for the catalytic converter.
5Before renewing an individual section of the
exhaust system, it is wise to inspect the
remaining sections. If corrosion or damage is
evident on more than one section of the
system, it may prove more economical to
renew the entire system.
6Individual sections of the exhaust system
can be removed as follows.
Front section - SOHC models
7On models with a catalytic converter,
disconnect the battery negative lead, and
disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
8Raise the vehicle, and support securely on
axle stands placed under the body side
members (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”).
9Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
disconnect the exhaust front section from the
front expansion box or catalytic converter (as
applicable) at the flexible joint. Recover the
sealing ring and the springs (see illustration).10Unbolt the exhaust front section from the
bracket on the cylinder block (see
illustration).
11Unscrew and remove the four bolts
securing the downpipe to the exhaust
manifold, and withdraw the exhaust front
section (see illustration). Recover the
downpipe-to-manifold gasket.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new gasket when reconnecting the downpipe
to the manifold, and a new sealing ring when
connecting the flexible joint. Tighten all fixings
to the specified torque.
Front section - DOHC models
Removal
13Proceed as described in paragraphs 7
and 8.
14Remove the engine undershield, as
described in Chapter 11.
15Proceed as described in paragraphs 9
and 10.
16Working in the engine compartment,
remove the bolts securing the exhaust
manifold heat shield to the cylinder head.
17Unscrew the two lower exhaust manifold
securing nuts that also secure the heat shield
brackets, and withdraw the heat shield (see
illustration).
18Unscrew the remaining manifold securing
nuts, then withdraw the manifold/exhaust
front section from the vehicle. Recover the
manifold gasket.
Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions 4C•5
14.10 Exhaust front section support
bracket - SOHC models
14.11 Unscrewing a downpipe-to-exhaust
manifold bolt - SOHC models
14.9 Exhaust front section flexible joint -
SOHC models13.7 Unscrewing an exhaust manifold
securing nut - SOHC models
4C

4B
cruising and accelerating. The injector earth is
also switched off on the overrun to improve
fuel economy and reduce exhaust emissions.
Additionally, on the X16 SZ engine, the ECU
also controls the operation of the charcoal
canister purge valve in the evaporative
emission control system.
10The oxygen sensor screwed into the
exhaust manifold provides the ECU with a
constant feedback signal. This enables it to
adjust the mixture (closed-loop control) to
provide the best possible conditions for the
catalytic converter to operate effectively.
11Until the oxygen sensor is fully warmed up
it gives no feedback so the ECU uses
pre-programmed values (open-loop control) to
determine the correct injector pulse width.
When the sensor reaches its normal operating
temperature, its tip (which is sensitive to
oxygen) sends the ECU a varying voltage
depending on the amount of oxygen in the
exhaust gases. If the inlet air/fuel mixture is too
rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen so the
sensor sends a low-voltage signal. The voltage
rises as the mixture weakens and the amount of
oxygen rises in the exhaust gases. Peak
conversion efficiency of all major pollutants
occurs if the inlet air/fuel mixture is maintained
at the chemically correct ratio for the complete
combustion of petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of
air to 1 part of fuel (the “stoichiometric” ratio).
The sensor output voltage alters in a large step
at this point, the ECU using the signal change
as a reference point and correcting the inlet
air/fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel
injector pulse width.
12In addition, the ECU senses battery
voltage, incorporates diagnostic capabilities,
and can both receive and transmit information
by way of the diagnostic connector, thus
permitting engine diagnosis and tuning by
Vauxhall’s TECH1, test equipment.
Motronic system
13The Motronic type is available in several
different versions, depending on model. The
system is under the overall control of the
Motronic engine management system (Chapter
5), which also controls the ignition timing.
14Fuel is supplied from the rear-mounted
fuel tank by an electric fuel pump mounted
under the rear of the vehicle, through a
pressure regulator, to the fuel rail. The fuel rail
acts as a reservoir for the four fuel injectors,
which inject fuel into the cylinder inlet tracts,
upstream of the inlet valves. On SOHC
engines, the fuel injectors receive an electrical
pulse once per crankshaft revolution, which
operates all four injectors simultaneously. On
DOHC engines, sequential fuel injection is
used, whereby each injector receives an
individual electrical pulse allowing the four
injectors to operate independently, which
enables finer control of the fuel supply to each
cylinder. The duration of the electrical pulse
determines the quantity of fuel-injected, and
pulse duration is computed by the Motronic
module, based on the information received
from the various sensors.15On SOHC engines, inlet air passes from
the air cleaner through a vane type airflow
meter, before passing to the cylinder inlet
tracts through the throttle valve. A flap in the
vane airflow meter is deflected in proportion
to the airflow; this deflection is converted into
an electrical signal, and passed to the
Motronic module. A potentiometer screw
located on the airflow meter provides the
means of idle mixture adjustment, by altering
the reference voltage supplied to the Motronic
module.
16On DOHC engines, inlet air passes from
the air cleaner through a hot wire type air
mass meter, before passing to the cylinder
inlet tracts through a two-stage throttle body
assembly. The electrical current required to
maintain the temperature of the hot wire in the
air mass meter is directly proportional to the
mass flow rate of the air trying to cool it. The
current is converted into a signal, which is
passed to the Motronic module. The throttle
body contains two throttle valves that open
progressively, allowing high torque at part
throttle, and full-throttle, high-speed
“breathing” capacity. A potentiometer screw
located on the air mass meter provides the
means of idle mixture adjustment, by altering
the reference voltage supplied to the Motronic
module.
17A throttle position sensor enables the
Motronic module to compute the throttle
position, and on certain models, its rate of
change. Extra fuel can thus be provided for
acceleration when the throttle is opened
suddenly. Information from the throttle
position sensor is also used to cut off the fuel
supply on the overrun, thus improving fuel
economy and reducing exhaust gas
emissions.
18Idle speed is controlled by a variable-
orifice solenoid valve, which regulates the
amount of air bypassing the throttle valve. The
valve is controlled by the Motronic module;
there is no provision for direct adjustment of
the idle speed.
19Additional sensors inform the Motronic
module of engine coolant temperature, air
temperature, and on models fitted with a
catalytic converter, exhaust gas oxygen
content.
20A fuel filter is incorporated in the fuel
supply line, to ensure that the fuel supplied to
the injectors is clean.
21A fuel pump cut-off relay is controlled by
the Motronic module, which cuts the power to
the fuel pump should the engine stop with the
ignition switched on, if there is an accident. All
1993-onwards models equipped with
Motronic systems, have their fuel pump
located inside the fuel tank.
22The later M2.8 system is basically the
same as the earlier M2.5 system apart from
the following:
a)Hot Film Mass Airflow Meter - The hot
wire type unit used previously is replaced
on the M2.8 system by a hot film mass
airflow meter. The operation is the sameexcept that a thin, electrically heated plate
rather than a wire is used. The plate is
maintained at a constant temperature by
electric current as the inlet air mass
passing over the plate tries to cool it. The
current required to maintain the
temperature of the plate is directly
proportional to the mass flow rate of the
inlet air. The current is converted to a
signal that is passed to the Motronic
module.
b)Inlet Air Temperature Sensor -The sensor
is located in the hose between the hot
film mass airflow meter and the air cleaner
for precise monitoring of inlet air
temperature. Signals from the sensor are
used in conjunction with other sensors to
indicate the occurrence of a hot start
condition. The Motronic module then
interprets these signals to alter injector
duration accordingly.
c)Throttle Valve Potentiometer -On the
M2.8 system a throttle valve
potentiometer replaces the throttle valve
switch used previously.
Simtec system
23An increased amount of electronic
components are used instead of mechanical
parts as sensors and actuators with the
Simtec engine management system. This
provides more precise operating data as well
as greater problem free motoring.
24The control unit is equipped with
electronic ignition control. Called ‘Micropro-
cessor Spark Timing System, inductive
triggered’, (or MSTS-i), and means that the
mechanical high voltage distributor is no
longer needed. It is located behind the trim
panel, on the right-hand side footwell (door
pillar).
25The ignition coil is replaced by a dual
spark ignition coil, which is switched directly
by the output stages in the control unit.
26A camshaft sensor will maintain
emergency operation, should the crankshaft
inductive pulse pick-up, malfunction. These
sense TDC (‘Top Dead Centre’), crankshaft
angle and engine speed. The signals are used
by the control unit to calculate ignition point
and for fuel injection.
27The ‘hot film airflow meter’ determines the
mass of air taken in by the engine. The system
uses this information to calculate the correct
amount of fuel needed for injection in the
engine.
28The air inlet temperature sensor (NTC), is
fitted in the air inlet duct between the air
cleaner and the hot mass air flow meter.
29A controlled canister purge valve is
actuated by the system. The tank ventilation is
monitored closely with the Lambda control (or
oxygen sensor) and adaptation by the
computer within the control unit.
30A knock control system is also fitted. This
eliminates the need for octane number
adjustment, as it is performed automatically
through the control unit.
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•3

d)Disconnect the fuel pump hose and wiring
as described in Section 12.
e)When releasing the tank mounting straps,
note that the fuel filter must either be
moved aside or removed completely,
whichever is most convenient
f)One of the fuel hoses connects to a pipe
in the side of the tank.
DOHC models
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
4Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
placed under the body side members (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Open the fuel filler flap, then pull back the
rubber seal to expose the fuel filler pipe
securing screw (see illustration). Remove the
screw.
6Release the fuel tank vent hoses from the
clips on the underbody.
7Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack, with an interposed block of wood.
8Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps. Then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the fuel
hoses, vent hoses and fuel tank sender unit
wiring to be disconnected (see illustration).
9Disconnect the vent hoses and the fuel tank
sender unit wiring. Note the positions of the
vent hoses as an aid to refitting.
10Disconnect the fuel hoses from the tank and
the fuel tank sender unit, making a note of the
hose positions for use when refitting. Be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to
prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
11Lower the fuel tank, and withdraw it from
under the vehicle.
12If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel tank sender unit, as described
in Section 17. This procedure should be
carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it is
vital to take adequate fire precautions - refer
to the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning
of this manual for further details.
Refitting
13Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately, and
rectify the problem without delay.
17Fuel tank sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models
1Remove the fuel tank, (refer to Section 16),
if necessary. Note that there is only one hose
connected to the sender unit. This must also
be disconnected from the union on the inside
of the unit before it can be withdrawn
completely from the tank (see illustration).
DOHC models
2Remove the fuel tank, as described in
Section 16.
3Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.
4To remove the sender unit, an improvised
tool must be used which engages with thecut-outs in the sender unit retaining ring. The
Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for this purpose
is shown (see illustration).
5Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
6Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Renew the sealing ring.
9Ensure that the marks made on sender unit
and fuel tank before removal are aligned.
10Refit the fuel tank, (Section 16).
18Fuel flow damper - removal
and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel flow damper is located on the fuel
pump bracket under the rear of the vehicle, on
the right-hand side of the spare wheel well or
in front of the fuel tank, depending on model
(see illustration). The damper is positioned in
the fuel feed line between the fuel pump and
the fuel filter, and its purpose is to reduce
pressure fluctuations in the fuel return line,
thus reducing noise levels.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the damper is
removed.
4B•8Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
16.5 Fuel filler pipe securing screw
(arrowed) - models with semi-trailing arm
rear axles17.1 Fuel level sender unit - models with
semi-independent rear axles
18.1 Fuel flow damper - models with semi-
trailing arm rear axles17.4 Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for
removing fuel level sender units
16.8 Fuel tank mounting - models with
semi-trailing arm rear axles
1 Strap securing bolt 2 Vent hose securing

12Disconnect the pressure sensor vacuum
pipe from the carburettor (see illustration).
13Remove the coolant hose(s) from the inlet
manifold and/or throttle body, as applicable.
14Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
pump and vapour separator on carburettor
models or from the fuel pipes at the
right-hand side of the engine compartment on
other models. Be prepared for fuel spillage,
and take adequate fire precautions. Plug the
open ends of the pipes and hoses, to prevent
dirt ingress and further fuel leakage (see
illustrations).
15Disconnect all relevant wiring connections
and plugs, and remove the fuel injection
wiring harness. Pull up on the wiring harness
housing, and compress the wiring plug
retaining clips to release the harness housing
from the fuel injectors (see illustration).16Disconnect the heater coolant hoses from
the coolant gallery at the rear of the cylinder
block.
17Disconnect the wiring from the following
components (where applicable):
a)Starter motor
b)Distributor (note HT lead positions)
c)Oil pressure switch
d)Oil temperature switch
e)TDC sensor
f)Oil level sensor
g)Knock sensor
h)Coolant temperature sensor
i)Temperature gauge sender
18Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected, and that they are positioned
clear of the engine.
19Remove the front section of the exhaust
system, as described in Chapter 4C.
20Unbolt and remove the bellhousing cover
plate (see illustration).
21Remove the clutch (if applicable), as
described in Chapter 6. On automatic models,
use chalk or a felt-tip pen to mark the
relationship of the torque converter to the
flexplate before unbolting the torque converter.
Refer to note at the beginning of this Section
and to Chapter 7B for further information.
22Remove the crankshaft pulley. Some
pulleys are secured by four bolts, which must
be unscrewed using an Allen key or hexagon
bit. Unscrew each of the three bolts in turn
and remove them. On other engines, the
pulley is secured by a single bolt, which alsosecures the crankshaft sprocket. On manual
transmission models, if the engine is in the
vehicle, the crankshaft can be prevented from
turning by having an assistant engage first
gear and depress the brake pedal.
Alternatively, the flywheel (or flexplate, on
automatics), ring gear teeth can be jammed,
through the bellhousing cover aperture using
a large screwdriver, or similar tool. Access to
the crankshaft pulley is most easily obtained
through the right-hand wheel arch, after
removing the roadwheel.
23Attach a hoist and lifting gear to the
engine lifting brackets on the cylinder head,
and support the weight of the engine.
24Unscrew and remove two of the three
upper engine-to-transmission bolts,
accessible from the engine compartment,
leaving one fastened for safety.
25Unbolt the right-hand engine mounting
from the body and from the cylinder block,
and withdraw the mounting bracket.
26Unscrew and remove the four lower
engine-to-transmission bolts.
27Support the transmission using a trolley
jack and interposed block of wood. Remove
the last upper transmission bolt.
28Manipulate the engine as necessary to
separate it from the transmission. Note that
the transmission locates on dowels in the
cylinder block.
29Carefully raise the hoist, and lift the
engine from the vehicle, taking care not to
damage any of the surrounding components
in the engine compartment.
SOHC engine procedures 2A•9
7.12 Disconnect the pressure sensor
vacuum pipe from the carburettor -
1.6 litre model
7.20 Removing the transmission
bellhousing cover plate7.15 Removing the fuel injection wiring
harness -
2.0 litre SOHC model7.14B Fuel hose-to-pipe connections at
right-hand side of engine compartment -
2.0 litre SOHC model
7.14A Disconnecting a fuel hose from the
fuel pump - 1.6 litre model
7.11B . . .and disconnect the choke
heater/pull-down solenoid wiring plug -
1.6 litre model7.11A Disconnect the coolant hoses from
the automatic choke housing . . .
2A