tire type OPEL FRONTERA 1998 User Guide

4A2A–2
DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
General Description
The rear axle assembly is of the semi–floating type in
which the vehicle weight is carried on the axle housing .
The center line of the pinion gear is below the center line
of the ring gear (hypoid drive).
All parts necessary to transmit power from the propeller
shaft to the rear wheels are enclosed in a banjo type axle
housing.
The 8.7 inch ring gear rear axle uses a conventional ring
and pinion gear set to transmit the driving force of the
engine to the rear wheels. This gear set transfers thisdriving force at a 90 degree angle from the propeller shaft
to the drive shafts.
The axle shafts are supported at the wheel end of the
shaft by a roller bearing.
The pinion gear is supported by two tapered roller
bearings. The pinion depth is set by a shim pack located
between the gear end of the pinion and the roller bearing
that is pressed onto the pinion. The pinion bearing
preload is set by crushing a collapsible spacer between
the bearings in the axle housing.
A04RS001
The ring gear is bolted onto the differential cage with 12
bolts.
The differential cage is supported in the axle housing by
two tapered roller bearings. The differential and ring gear
are located in relationship to the pinion by using selective
shims and spacers between the bearing and the axle
housing. To move the ring gear, shims are deleted from
one side and an equal amount are added to the other side.
These shims are also used to preload the bearings whichare pressed onto the differential cage. Two bearing caps
are used to hold the differential into the rear axle housing.
The differential is used to allow the wheels to turn at
different rates of speed while the rear axle continues to
transmit the driving force. This prevents tire scuffing
when going around corners and prevents premature wear
on internal axle parts.
The rear axle is sealed with a pinion seal, a seal at each
axle shaft end, and by a liquid gasket between the
differential carrier and the axle housing.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B–3
General Description
The rear axle assembly is of the semi–floating type in
which the vehicle weight is carried on the axle housing .
The center line of the pinion gear is below the center line
of the ring gear (hypoid drive).
All parts necessary to transmit power from the propeller
shaft to the rear wheels are enclosed in a banjo type axle
housing.
The 9.61 inch ring gear rear axle uses a conventional ring
and pinion gear set to transmit the driving force of the
engine to the rear wheels. This gear set transfers thisdriving force at a 90 degree angle from the propeller shaft
to the drive shafts.
The axle shafts are supported at the wheel end of the
shaft by a roller bearing.
The pinion gear is supported by two tapered roller
bearings. The pinion depth is set by a shim pack located
between the gear end of the pinion and the roller bearing
that is pressed onto the pinion. The pinion bearing
preload is set by crushing a collapsible spacer between
the bearings in the axle housing.
420RY00006
The ring gear is bolted onto the differential cage with 12
bolts.
The differential cage is supported in the axle housing by
two tapered roller bearings. The differential and ring gear
are located in relationship to the pinion by using selective
shims and spacers between the bearing and the axle
housing. To move the ring gear, shims are deleted from
one side and an equal amount are added to the other side.
These shims are also used to preload the bearings whichare pressed onto the differential cage. Two bearing caps
are used to hold the differential into the rear axle housing.
The differential is used to allow the wheels to turn at
different rates of speed while the rear axle continues to
transmit the driving force. This prevents tire scuffing
when going around corners and prevents premature wear
on internal axle parts.
The rear axle is sealed with a pinion seal, a seal at each
axle shaft end, and by a liquid gasket between the
differential carrier and the axle housing.

4A2B–4DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2–114
Diagnosis from Symptom
Troubles that are not indicated by the warning lamp are
listed in the table below. These troubles are caused by
the faults that cannot be detected by the self-diagnostic
function of the control unit.
If this type of trouble is observed, interview the customer
and conduct test runs to reproduce the trouble,
cross-check the reported trouble with the listed
phenomena, and diagnose and analyze the trouble on the
item by item basis.
PhenomenaMajor causeCorrective action
1The tight corner braking is
observed when the vehicle is
subject to full steering.The standard tires are not used.
The tire pressure is incorrect.
The tires are worn inuniformity.
The transfer or wiring is
imperfect.
The limited slip differential is
failed.
Check and recondition the
vehicle according to Chart 1.
2Even if the 4WD AUTO SW is
select to the 4WD position, the
4WD mode is not active, resulting
in remarkable rear wheel spin.The transfer or wiring is
imperfect.
The shift on the fly system is
failed.
Check and recondition the
vehicle according to Chart 2.
3When the 4WD AUTO SW is
selected to the 4WD position,
the drive resistance of the 4WD
system is too large to get
sufficient running speed.
Noised drive line.
The standard tires are not used.
The tire pressure is incorrect.
The tires are worn inuniformity.
The transfer or wiring is
imperfect.
The limited slip differential is
failed.
Check and recondition the
vehicle according to Chart 1.
4The shift on the fly system (front
axle) generates gear noises.The wiring is imperfect.
The shift on the fly system is
failed.
Check and recondition the
vehicle according to Chart 3.
5The braking distance gets long
even when the ABS is active.The wiring is imperfect.
The ABS is failed.
Check and recondition the
vehicle according to Chart 4.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2–116
StepActionYe sNo
1Are the front and rear tires in specified size?
Go to Step 2
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
2Is the tire pressure correct?
Go to Step 3
In flate tries to
recommended
pressure.
Go to Step 16
3Are the tires free from abnormal wear?
Go to Step 4
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
4Are different types of tires used?
Go to Step 5
Replace the tires
with specified
ones, and service
the new tires.
Go to Step 16
51. Start the engine.
2. Shift the transfer lever to the high position and switch the 4WD
AUTO SW to 4WD position.
3. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 6 Go to Step 11
61. Shift the transfer lever to the high position and switch the 4WD
AUTO SW to the 2H position.
2. Fully turn the steering to the left (or right) end, and select the D
range and start the creep run.
Does the tight corner braking occur? Is the judder with chug-chug
sound observed? * Use caution on the operation.
Go to Step 7 Go to Step 14
7Is an LSD mounted to the rear differential? Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9
8Is the genuine LSD oil used in the rear differential?
Go to Step 9
Replace the
differential oil.
Go to Step 16
9Does the engine output the power correctly?
Go to Step 10
Check the
engine.
Go to Step 16
10Do the speed sensors work correctly? (Check trouble codes.)The ECU has
failed. Replace
the ECU.
Go to Step 16
Replace the
speed sensors.
Go to Step 16
11Is the tight corner braking observed only when the brake is
applied?
Go to Step 12
Conduct full
steering under
WOT.
Go to Step 5
121. Turn on the starter switch.
Is the battery voltage observed between terminals 11 and 19?
Go to Step 13
Repair the circuit
of terminal 11
(ABS IN).
Go to Step 16

6D1–2
ENGINE ELECTRICAL
Battery
General Description
There are six battery fluid caps on top of the battery.
These are covered by a paper label.
The battery is completely sealed except for the six small
vent holes on the side. These vent holes permit the
escape of small amounts of gas generated by the battery.
This type of battery has the following advantages over
conventional batteries:
1. There is no need to add water during the entire
service life of the battery.
2. The battery protects itself against overcharging.
The battery will refuse to accept an extensive charge.
(A conventional battery will accept an excessive
charge, resulting in gassing and loss of battery fluid.)
3. The battery is much less vulnerable to self discharge
than a conventional type battery.
Diagnosis
1. Visual Inspection
Inspect the battery for obvious physical damage, such as
a cracked or broken case, which would permit electrolyte
loss.
Replace the battery if obvious physical damage is
discovered during inspection.
Check for any other physical damage and correct it as
necessary.
2. Hydrometer Check
There is a built–in hydrometer (Charge test indicator(1))
at the top of the battery. It is designed to be used during
diagnostic procedures.
Before trying to read the hydrometer, carefully clean the
upper battery surface.
If your work area is poorly lit, additional light may be
necessary to read the hydrometer.
a. BLUE RING OR DOT VISIBLE(5) – Go to Step 4.
b . B L U E R I N G O R D O T N O T V I S I B L E ( 4 ) – G o t o S t e p
3.
061RW001
3. Fluid Level Check
The fluid level should be between the upper level line(2)
and lower level line(3) on side of battery.
a. CORRECT FLUID LEVEL – Charge the battery.
b. BELOW LOWER LEVEL – Replace battery.
061RW001
4. Voltage Check
1. Put voltmeter test leads to battery terminals.
a. VOLTAGE IS 12.4V OR ABOVE – Go to Step 5.
b. VOLTAGE IS UNDER 12.4V – Go to procedure (2)
below.
2. Determine fast charge amperage from specification.
(See Main Data and Specifications in this section).
Fast charge battery for 30 minutes at amperage rate
no higher than specified value.
Take voltage and amperage readings after charge.
a. VOLTAGE IS ABOVE 16V AT BELOW 1/3 OF
AMPERAGE RATE – Replace battery.
b. VOLTAGE IS ABOVE 16V AT ABOVE 1/3 OF
AMPERAGE RATE – Drop charging voltage to
15V and charge for 10 – 15 hours. Then go to Step
5.
c. VOLTAGE IS BETWEEN 12V AND 16V –
Continue charging at the same rate for an
additional 3–1/2 hours. Then go to Step 5.
d. VOLTAGE BELOW 12V – Replace Battery.
5. Load Test
1. Connect a voltmeter and a battery load tester across
the battery terminals.
2. Apply 300 ampere load for 15 seconds to remove
surface charge from the battery. Remove load.
3. Wait 15 seconds to let battery recover. Then apply
specified load from specifications (See Main Data
and Specifications in this section).
Read voltage after 15 seconds, then remove load.

6D2–4
IGNITION SYSTEM
Spark Plug
Removal
1. Remove spark plugs.
Inspection and Repair
The spark plug affects entire engine performance and
therefore its inspection is very important.
Check electrode and insulator for presence of cracks,
and replace if any.
Check electrode for wear, and replace if necessary.
Check gasket for damage, and replace if necessary.
Measure insulation resistance with an ohmmeter, and
replace if faulty.
Adjust spark plug gap to 1.0 mm (0.04 in) 1.1 mm
(0.043 in).
Check fuel and electrical systems if spark plug is
extremely dirty.
Use spark plugs having low heat value (hot type plug)
if fuel and electrical systems are normal.
Use spark plugs having high heat value (cold type
plug) if insulator and electrode are extremely burned.
Sooty Spark Plugs
Much deposit of carbon or oil on the electrode and
insulator of spark plug reduces the engine performance.
Possible causes:
Too rich mixture
Presence of oil in combustion chamber
Incorrectly adjusted spark plug gap
Burning Electrodes
This fault is characterized by scorched or heavily oxidized
electrode or blistered insulator nose.
Possible causes:
Too lean mixture
Improper heat value
Measuring Insulation Resistance
Measure insulation resistance using a 500 volt
megaohm meter.
Replace spark plugs if measured value is out of
standard.
Insulation resistance: 50 M
or more
011RS010
Cleaning Spark Plugs
Clean spark plugs with a spark plug cleaner.
Raise the ground electrode to an angle of 45 to 60
degrees. If electrode is wet, dry it before cleaning.
After spark plug is thoroughly cleaned, check
insulator for presence of cracks.
Clean threads and metal body with a wire brush.
File the electrode tip if electrode is extremely worn.
Bend the ground electrode to adjust the spark plug
gap.
011RS011
Installation
1. Spark plugs
Tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Torque: 18 Nꞏm (1.8 Kgꞏm/13 lb ft)

ENGINE ELECTRICAL 6D – 1
ENGINE ELECTRICAL
CONTENTS
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–1
General Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–1
Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–1
On Vehicle Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–3
Main Data and Specification . . . . . . . . . . 6D–4
Starting System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–5
General Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–5
On Vehicle Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–7
Starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–7
Unit Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–8Charging System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–15
General Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–15
Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–16
Unit Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–17
Main Data and Specification . . . . . . . . . . 6D–22
QOS4 Preheating System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–23
General Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–23
System Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6D–23
Inspection of QOS4 System Operation . . 6D–24
BATTERY
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
DIAGNOSIS
There are six battery fluid caps at the top of the battery.
These are covered by a paper label.
The battery is completely sealed except for the six
small vent holes at the side. These vent holes permit
the escape of small amounts of gas generated by the
battery.
This type of battery has the following advantages over
conventional batteries:1. There is no need to add water during the entire
service life of the battery.
2. The battery protects itself against overcharging.
The battery will refuse to accept an excessive
charge.
(A conventional battery will accept an excessive
charge, resulting in gassing and loss of battery
fluid.)
3. The battery is much less vulnerable to self-
discharge than a conventional type battery.
1. VISUAL INSPECTION (Step 1)
Inspect the battery for obvious physical damage, such
as a cracked or broken case, which would permit
electrolyte loss.
Replace the battery if obvious physical damage is
discovered during inspection.
Check for any other physical damage and correct it as
necessary. If not, proceed to Step 2.
2. HYDROMETER CHECK (Step 2)
There is a built-in hydrometer (Charge test indicator) at
the top of the battery. It is designed to be used during
diagnostic procedures.
Before trying to read the hydrometer, carefully clean the
upper battery surface.
If your work area is poorly lit, additional light may be
necessary to read the hydrometer.
a. BLUE RING OR DOT VISIBLE – Go to Step 4.
b. BLUE RING OR DOT NOT VISIBLE – Go to
Step 3.3. FLUID LEVEL CHECK (Step 3)
The fluid level should be between the upper level line
and lower level line on side of the battery.
a. CORRECT FLUID LEVEL – Charge the battery.
b. BELOW LOWER LEVEL – Replace battery.
4. VOLTAGE CHECK (Step 4)
(1) Put voltmeter test leads to battery terminals.
a. VOLTAGE IS 12.4V OR ABOVE – Go to Step 5.
b. VOLTAGE IS UNDER 12.4V – Go to procedure
(2) below.
(2) Determine fast charge amperage from
specification. (See Main Data and Specifications in
this section.)
Fast charge battery for 30 minutes at amperage
rate no higher than specified value.
Take voltage and amperage readings after charge.
a. VOLTAGE IS ABOVE 16V AT BELOW 1/3 OF
AMPERAGE RATE – Replace battery.