transmission OPEL FRONTERA 1998 Workshop Manual

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THIS MALUAL INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING SECTIONS:
SECTION No. CONTRNTS
7A AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (4L30-E)
7A1 TRANSMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM (4L30-E)
7B MANUAL TRANSMISSION (AR-5)
7B MANUAL TRANSMISSION (MUA)
7C CLUTCH
HOME
7A
7A1
7B
7B
7C

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 220mm)
4A2A–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DIFFERENTIAL (REAR 244mm)
4A2B–3
Diagnosis
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually originate from other sources such as tires, road
surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or
body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the
noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like
any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but
should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise
is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level,
and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly
warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the
engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the
noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other
engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle
noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa
(3.5kg/cm
2, 50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise
caused by the rear axle.
Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at
speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise
continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually
changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire
noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by
noting if the noise changes with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire
noise remains constant and is more pronounced at
speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check
for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth
pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at
normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise
which may be confused with rear axle noise; however,
front wheel bearing noise does not change when
comparing drive and coast. Light application of the
brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often
cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel
bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly
installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod
loosened or metal–to–metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal–to–metal contact
between the floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the
type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make
any necessary repairs.
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55
mph) under four driving conditions.
1. Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from
driving the engine while the vehicle slows down
gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle
closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable
between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and
89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating
sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise.
Bearing noise frequently “wow–wows” at bearing rpm,
indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This
noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise
may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels,
spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs.
Replace any faulty wheel bearings.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints
or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn
oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and
side gears as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be
caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage,
excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear
splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub
and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side
gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion
and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace
as required. Select close–fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

DRIVE LINE CONTROL SYSTEM (TOD) 4B2–6
High-Low Planetary Gear Set
Establishes an auxiliary transmission mechanism. When
the transfer shift lever is set to the 2H or TOD position, the
reduction gear ratio is 1.000 and the corresponding
driving force is generated. When the transfer shift lever is
set to the 4L position, the reduction gear ratio is 2.480 and
the corresponding driving force is generated.
262RW030
4H and 4L Switches
Detects the shift position of the transfer from the
movement of the transfer lever and outputs signals to the
TOD control unit.
261RW002
Transfer Connector
Transmits the input and output signals of the speed
sensors, electromagnetic coil, and 4H and 4L switches to
the vehicle harness. A waterproof 12-pin type is used.
261RW046
TOD Indicator Lamps (on the instrument
panel)
Inform the following items.
Bulb check
Drive mode
ABS IN status
BRAKE ON status
821RW049

4C–47 DRIVE SHAFT SYSTEM
Main Data and Specifications
General Specifications
Engine6VE1 (3.5L)6VD1 (3.2L)4JX1 (3.0L)4JG2 (3.1L)
Transmission
M/TA/T
A/T
with
TOD
M/TA/T
A/T
with
TOD
M/TA/TM/TA/T
Construction
Hollow steel tube
with yoke and
spider type
universal joint
Hollow
steel
tube
with
consta
nt
velocity
joints
Hollow steel tube
with yoke and
spider type
universal joint
Hollow
steel
tube
with
consta
nt
velocity
joints
Hollow steel tube with yoke and
spider type universal joint
Outside
diameter40.0mm (1.57 in)
Length559mm
(22.01in)559mm
(22.01in)577mm
(22.72in)393mm
(15.47in)559mm
(22.01in)577mm
(22.72in)627mm
(24.69in)627mm
(24.69in)421mm
(16.57in)627mm
(24.69in)
Torque Specifications
E04RW021

4C–55 DRIVE SHAFT SYSTEM
Main Data and Specifications
General Specifications
Engine6VE1 (3.5L)6VD1 (3.2L)4JX1 (3.0L)4JG2 (3.1L)
Transmission
M/TA/T
A/T
with
TOD
M/TA/T
A/T
with
TOD
M/TA/TM/TA/T
ConstructionHollow steel tube with yoke and spider type universal joint
LengthS
W
B
668mm (26.30in)—846mm
(33.31in)678mm
(26.69in)—604mm (23.78in)810mm
(31.89in)—
L
W
B
1093mm (43.03in)1075mm
(42.32in)1271mm
(50.04in)1103mm
(43.43in)1083mm
(42.64in)1029mm (40.51in)1236mm
(48.66in)1037mm
(40.83in)
Outside
diamterS
W
B
68.9mm (2.71in)—68.9mm (2.71in)—68.9mm (2.71in)—
LW
B68.9mm (2.71in)82.6mm
(3.25in)68.9mm (2.71in)82.6mm
(3.25in)68.9mm
(2.71in)
Torque Specifications
E04RW023

TRANSFER CASE (STANDARD TYPE)
4D1–9
266RW002
7. Connect the rear propeller shaft to the transfer case
and tighten to the specified torque.
Torque: 63 Nꞏm (6.4kgꞏm/46 lb ft)
Transfer Case Assembly
Removal
NOTE: Before removing the transmission & transfer
assembly from the vehicle, change the transfer mode to
2WD by pushing button switch on dash panel. (4WD
Switch Model)
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Drain the transfer case fluid, if overhauling the
transter case assembly.
3. Remove the exhaust and transfer protectors.
4. Remove the rear and front propeller shafts from the
transfer case side.
5. Remove the transfer control lever knob.
6. Disconnect the harness connectors and remove the
front console.
7. Remove the selector lever assembly. Refer to
Selector Lever in the Section 7A.
8. Remove the transfer control lever.
9. Disconnect the 4WD switch connector, speed sensor
harness connector and 2WD–4WD actuator harness
connector (4WD Switch Model) from the transmission
harness.10. Support the transfer case with a transmission jack.
11. Remove the transmission–transfer bolts and the nut
(M/T).
12. Remove the transfer case assembly from the vehicle.

4D1–10
TRANSFER CASE (STANDARD TYPE)
Installation
To install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order,
noting the following points:
1. Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to
the input shaft spline and install the transter case
assembly to the vehicle.
260RW001
2. Tighten the transmission–transfer bolts and the nut
(M/T) to the specified torque.
Torque: 46 Nꞏm (4.7kgꞏm/34 lb ft)
3. Tighten the propeller shaft bolts to the specified
torque.
Torque: 63 Nꞏm (6.4kgꞏm/46 lb ft)
4. Tighten the transfer protector bolts to the specified
torque.
Torque: 37 Nꞏm (3.8kgꞏm/27 lb ft)
256RW030

TRANSFER CASE (STANDARD TYPE)
4D1–39
14. Assemble the 2WD–4WD clutch hub and sleeve
assembly (7).
226RW140
15. Engage the springs in the same insert with the open
ends away from each other. (Shift On The Fly model)
226RW141
16. Place the snap ring (2), a new stopper plate (6) (Shift
On The Fly model) and the clutch sleeve and hub
assembly (7) on the front output shaft (5).
226RW135
Legend
(6) Front Output Gear
17. The clutch hub face (with the heavy boss) must be
facing the front output gear side.
18. Use a bench press to slowly force the clutch hub and
sleeve assembly (7) together with the stopper plate
(6) (Shift On The Fly model) into place.
19. Align the inserts with the block ring insert grooves.
Install the block ring (8) (Shift On The Fly model) to
the clutch sleeve and hub assembly (7).
20. Install the outside ring (9) (Shift On The Fly model),
inside ring (10) (Shift On The Fly model) and needle
bearing (12) to the front output gear (11) and bearing
collar (17).
NOTE: Coat all parts with transmission oil before
installing them.
226RW139

4D2–3 TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
6. Disconnect the wiring harness connector and shift
lock cable and then remove the front console.
7 . R e m o v e t h e s e l e c t o r l e v e r a s s e m b ly a n d p u t i t a s i d e .
8. Remove the transfer control lever.
9. Disconnect the breather hose.
10. Remove the left front exhaust pipe fixing bolts and
nuts, and put the exhaust pipe aside.
11. Remove the left seat belt tension rod and put the rear
proper shaft aside.
260RW006
12. Remove the silencer.
13. Disconnect the transfer connector from the top of the
transfer case.
14. Disconnect the speed sensor harness connector.
15. Remove the fuel pipe clip fixing bolt on the transfer
case.
16. Support the transmission with a jack.
17. Remove the seven bolts from the transfer case.
18. Remove transfer case assembly.
Installation
To install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order,
nothing the following points:
1. Apply a thin coat of grease (Besco L2) or equivalent to
the input shaft spline.
261RW024
2. Mount the transfer case.