warning light OPEL VECTRA 1988 Service Owner's Manual

tighten the mounting nuts and bolts. On no
account lever at the free end of the alternator,
as serious internal damage could be caused.
3For details of replacement, see Chapter 5.
23Headlamp alignment
2
Refer to Chapter 12 for details.
24Door lock key battery -
replacement
1
1Carefully prise open the outer cover from
the key. Take care not to lose any of the
internal components, as they are loose.
2Remove the battery and discard it safely.
3Place the new battery, “+” side up (see
illustration). Check the operation of the key. If
the bulb does not light obtain a replacement.
4Replace the outer cover.
25Road test
1
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.
Steering and suspension
3Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.5Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6Check the performance of the engine,
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7Turn the radio/cassette off and listen for
any unusual noises from the engine, clutch
and transmission.
8Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
9Check that the clutch action is smooth and
progressive, that the drive is taken up
smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not
excessive. Also listen for any noises when the
clutch pedal is depressed.
10Check that all gears can be engaged
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear
lever action is not abnormally vague or
“notchy”.
11Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case, the complete
driveshaft must be renewed (see Chapter 8).
26Coolant renewal
2
Refer to Chapter 3 for details.
27Air cleaner element - renewal
2
Early round type
1Release the spring clips from the perimeter
of the air cleaner cover.
2Unscrew and remove the small cross-head
screw securing the cover extension to the
main body near the inlet duct.3Unscrew and remove the three central
cross-head cap nuts securing the air cleaner
to the carburettor, taking care not to drop the
washers and seals (see illustration).
4Separate the cover from the main body,
then lift out the element (see illustration).
5Wipe clean the inside surfaces of the cover
and main body.
6Locate the new element in the air cleaner
body, and refit the cover using a reversal of
the removal procedure.
Square type with air box
7If desired, to improve access, unclip the
coolant expansion tank hose from the air
cleaner cover.
8Release the two clips from the left-hand
side of the cover, and unscrew the two
screws from the right-hand side, then lift the
cover sufficiently to remove the element.
9Wipe clean the inside surfaces of the cover
and main body.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting
that the element fits with the rubber locating
flange uppermost.
Every 18 000 miles or 24 months 1•13
24.3 Replacing the battery in the door lock
key
1 Battery (note, positive ‘+’ side up)
2 Bulb
27.4 Removing the air cleaner element -
note clip for crankcase ventilation hose
(arrowed)
27.3 Air cleaner-to-carburettor mounting
cap nuts
1
Full service, every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 24 months
Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting the
procedure. Do not allow
antifreeze to come in contact
with your skin or with painted surfaces of
the vehicle. Rinse off spills with plenty of
water. Never leave antifreeze lying around
in an open container. Always clean spilt
fluids, as it can be harmful if swallowed.

28Air inlet temperature control
check (carburettor models
only)
2
Refer to Chapter 4A for details.
29Fuel filter renewal
3
Fuel filters are fitted in various locations
throughout the range. Some may be ‘in-line’ in
the fuel tank itself, or fitted into the
carburettor.
Refer to Chapters 4A or 4B, as appropriate.
30Spark plug renewal (SOHC)
2
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine. Refer to the
specifications in Chapter 5. If this type is used
and the engine is in good condition, the spark
plugs should not need attention between
scheduled service replacement intervals.
Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary and
should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
2Identify each HT lead for position so that the
leads can be refitted to their correct cylinders.
Then disconnect the leads from the plugs by
pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
3Clean the area around each spark plug
using a small paintbrush, then using a plugspanner (preferably with a rubber insert),
unscrew and remove the plugs (see
illustration). Cover the spark plug holes with
a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
foreign matter.
4The condition of the spark plugs will tell
much about the overall condition of the
engine.
5If the insulator nose of the spark plug is
clean and white, with no deposits, this is a
sign of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug (a hot
plug transfers heat away from the electrode
slowly -a cold plug transfers heat away
quickly).
6If the tip and insulator nose is covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
7If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
8The spark plug gap is of considerable
importance, because if it is either too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark
plug gap should be set to the figure given in
the Specifications, in Chapter 5.
9To set it, measure the gap with a feeler
blade and then bend open, or close, the outer
plug electrode until the correct gap is
achieved. The centre electrode should never
be bent, as this may crack the insulation and
cause plug failure, if nothing worse (see
illustrations).10Before fitting new spark plugs check that
their threaded connector sleeves are tight.
11Screw in the plugs by hand, then tighten
them to the specified torque. Do not exceed
the torque figure.
12Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, ensuring that they are connected to
their correct cylinders.
31Distributor cap and HT lead
check
3
1Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and wipe them clean.
2Also wipe clean the coil connections.
Remove the rotor arm, then visually check the
distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads for
hairline cracks, and signs of arcing.
1•14Every 18 000 miles or 24 months
30.9A Tools required for spark plug
removal, gap adjustment and refitting30.9C Measuring the spark plug gap with
feeler blade30.9B Measuring the spark plug gap with
wire gauge
30.3 Removing a spark plugWarning: Before carrying out
the following operation, refer to
the precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross-
threading them. To avoid this, fit a
short length of 8 mm (internal
diameter), rubber hose over the end of
the spark plug. The flexible hose acts
as a universal joint to help align the
plug correctly. Should the plug begin to
cross-thread, the hose will slip on the
spark plug, preventing damage to the
thread in the cylinder head.
Number the HT leads before
removal to ensure correct
refitting.

29Recover the cylinder head gasket and
discard it.
30Clean the cylinder head and block mating
faces by careful scraping. Take care not to
damage the cylinder head, which is made of
light alloy and is easily scored. Cover the
coolant passages and other openings with
masking tape or rag, to prevent dirt and
carbon falling in. Mop out all the oil from the
bolt holes; if oil is left in the holes, hydraulic
pressure could crack the block when the bolts
are refitted.
31If desired, the cylinder head can be
dismantled and inspected as described in
Section 10.
Refitting
32Begin refitting by locating a new gasket
on the block so that the word “OBEN” or
“TOP” is uppermost at the timing belt end of
the engine.
33With the mating faces scrupulously clean,
locate the cylinder head on the block so that
the positioning dowels engage in their holes.
34Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley and
the camshaft sprockets, and ensure that the
timing marks are still positioned as they were
before the timing belt was removed (see
Section 4).35Fit the new cylinder head bolts, ensuring
that the washers are in place under their
heads, and screw the bolts in by hand as far
as possible.
36Tighten the bolts in the order shown (see
illustrations). Note that the tightening
sequence on X20 XEV differs to other DOHC
engines. Tighten the bolts in the four stages
given in the Specification (see Chapter 2A, as
2.0 litre) - i.e. tighten all bolts to the Stage 1
torque, then tighten all bolts to Stage 2 and so
on (see illustrations).
37Further refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure, remembering the
following points.
38Refit the timing belt tensioner and idler
pulleys, camshaft sprockets and a new timing
belt as described in Section 4, and tension the
timing belt as described in Sections 4 and 5.
39Where applicable, refit the inlet manifold
to the cylinder head with reference to Chapter
4B, using a new gasket.
40Refit the front section of the exhaust
system as described in Chapter 4C, using a
new gasket.
41Refit the upper alternator mounting to the
inlet manifold (where applicable), then adjust
the alternator drivebelt tension, as described
in Chapter 5.
42Refill the cooling system, (Chapter 3).43On completion, check that all relevant
hoses, pipes and wires, etc., have been
reconnected.
44When the engine is started, check for
signs of leaks.
45Once the engine has reached normal
operating temperature, check and if
necessary adjust the mixture (where
applicable) with reference to Chapter 4B.
9Cylinder head -removal and
refitting (engine removed)
4
Note: New cylinder head bolts, a new cylinder
head gasket, and a new timing belt must be
used on refitting.
The torque settings (as shown in Chapter 2A)
are only applicable to latest specification head
bolts, available from Vauxhall. Earlier type or
alternative make, head bolts may require
different torques. Consult your supplier.
Removal
1The cylinder head can be removed
complete with the inlet manifold, or the inlet
manifold can be detached from the cylinder
head before removal, with reference to
Chapter 4B.
2Proceed as described in Section 8,
paragraphs 17 to 19 inclusive.
3If not already done, remove the distributor
cap and HT leads, referring to Chapter 5.
2B•8DOHC engine procedures
8.36A Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence -
20 XEJ and C 20 XE engines
8.36C Tighten the cylinder head bolts to
the specified torque . . .8.36D . . .and then through the specified
angle
8.36B Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence -
X 20 XEV engines
Warning: The exhaust valves
fitted to 20 XEJ and C 20 XE
models are fitted with sodium to
improve their heat transfer.
Sodium is a highly reactive metal, which
will ignite or explode spontaneously on
contact with water (including water vapour
in the air). These must NOT be disposed of
with ordinary scrap. Seek advice from a
Vauxhall dealer or your Local Authority, if
the valves are to be disposed.

23Cylinder head - inspection
and renovation
4
Note: Refer to a dealer for advice before
attempting to carry out valve grinding or valve
seat reciting operations, as these operations
may not be possible for the DIY mechanic.
This is due to the fitment of hardened valve
seats for use with unleaded petrol
Inspection
1Remember that the cylinder head is of light
alloy construction and is easily damaged, use
a blunt scraper or rotary wire brush to clean all
traces of carbon deposits from the
combustion spaces and the ports. The valve
stems and valve guides should also be freed
from any carbon deposits. Wash the
combustion spaces and ports down with
paraffin and scrape the cylinder head surface
free of any foreign matter with the side of a
steel rule, or a similar article.
2If the engine is installed in the car, clean the
pistons and the top of the cylinder bores. If
the pistons are still in the block, it is essential
that great care is taken to ensure that no
carbon gets into the cylinder bores. This could
scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to
the pistons and rings. To ensure this does not
happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of
the pistons are at the top of their bores. Insert
rag into the other two bores or seal them off
with paper and masking tape. The waterways
should also be covered with small pieces of
masking tape, to prevent particles of carbon
entering the cooling system and damaging the
coolant pump.
3Press a little grease into the gap between
the cylinder walls and the two pistons that are
to be worked on. With a blunt scraper,
carefully scrape away the carbon from the
piston crown, taking great care not to scratch
the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon
from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall.
When all carbon has been removed, scrape
away the grease that will now be
contaminated with carbon particles, taking
care not to press any into the bores. To assist
prevention of carbon build-up, the piston
crown can be polished with a metal polish.
Remove the rags or masking tape from the
other two cylinders, and turn the crankshaft
so that the two pistons that were at thebottom are now at the top. Place rag or
masking tape in the cylinders that have been
decarbonised, and continue as just described.
4Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the heads of the
exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be
examined at the same time. If the pitting on
the valve and seat is very slight, the marks
can be removed by grinding the seats and
valves together with coarse, and then fine,
valve grinding paste.
5Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve
seats, it will be necessary to recut them and fit
new valves. This latter job should be entrusted
to the local dealer or engineering works. In
practice it is very seldom that the seats are so
badly worn. Normally it is the valve that is too
badly worn for refitting, and the owner can
easily buy a new set of valves and match
them to the seats by valve grinding.
Renovation
6Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste
on the seat face and apply a suction grinder
tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary
motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting
the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the
process with fine carborundum paste, lifting
and turning the valve to redistribute the paste
as before. A light spring placed under the
valve head will greatly ease this operation.
When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey
matt finish is produced, on both valve and
valve seat faces, the grinding operation is
complete. Carefully clean away every trace of
grinding compound, taking great care to leave
none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean
the valves and valve seats with a
paraffin-soaked rag, then with a clean rag,
and finally, if an air line is available, blow the
valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.
7Check that all valve springs are intact. If any
one is broken, all should be renewed. Check
the free height of the springs against new
ones. If some springs are not long enough,
replace them all. Springs suffer from fatigue
and it is a good idea to renew them even if
they look serviceable. 8The cylinder head can be checked for
warping either by placing it on a piece of plate
glass or using a straight-edge and feeler
blades. If there is any doubt or if its block face
is corroded, have it re-faced by your dealer or
motor engineering works.
9On 1.8 and 2.0 litre, always renew the
sealing ring between the cylinder head and
the thermostat housing when the head is
removed for overhaul (see illustration).
Reference to Chapter 21 will show that a
considerable amount of work is involved if it is
wished to renew the sealing ring with the
cylinder head installed.
10If the oil pressure regulating valve in the
cylinder head is to be renewed, access is
gained through the circular plug covering the
end of the valve (see illustration). The old
valve must be crushed, then its remains
extracted, and a thread (M10) cut in the valve
seat to allow removal using a bolt. A new
valve and plug can then be driven into
position. In view of the intricacies of this
operation, it is probably best to have the valve
renewed by a Vauxhall dealer if necessary.
24Hydraulic valve lifters -
inspection
4
Inspection
1On engines that have covered a high
mileage, or for which the service history
(particularly oil changes) is suspect, it is
possible for the valve lifters to suffer internal
contamination. In extreme cases this may
result in increased engine top end noise and
wear. To minimise the possibility of problems
occurring later in the life of the engine, it is
advisable to dismantle and clean the hydraulic
valve lifters as follows whenever the cylinder
head is overhauled. Note that no spare parts
are available for the valve lifters, and if any of
the components are unserviceable, the
complete assembly must be renewed (see
illustration).
2With the cylinder head removed and
dismantled as described in Sections 21 and
23, first inspect the valve lifter bores in the
2A•24SOHC engine procedures
23.10 Oil pressure regulating valve (1) and
plug (2) - 2.0 litre engine23.9 Renewing the thermostat housing
sealing ring - 2.0 litre engine
Warning: The exhaust valves
fitted to 20 XEJ and C 20 XE
(DOHC) models are fitted with
sodium to improve their heat
transfer. Sodium is a highly reactive
metal, which will ignite or explode
spontaneously on contact with water
(including water vapour in the air). These
must NOT be disposed of with ordinary
scrap. Seek advice from a Vauxhall dealer
or your Local Authority, if the valves are to
be disposed of.

MOTTest Checks REF•9
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND
REF

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction

MFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine stalls
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Engine lacks power
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
MFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
MWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
MBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
MClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
MTiming belt incorrectly fitted or tensioned (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
MLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
MFaulty oil pressure warning light switch (Chapter 12).
MWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A).
MOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A).
Engine runs-on after switching off
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MHigh engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
MFaulty fuel cut-off solenoid - carburettor models (Chapter 4A).
MFuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models (Chapter 4B).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
MIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
MIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
MVacuum leak at the carburettor/throttle body, inlet manifold or
associated hoses (Chapter 4A or 4B).
MExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2A).
MBlocked carburettor jet(s) or internal passages - carburettor
models (Chapter 4A).
MBlocked injector/fuel injection system fault - fuel-injected models
(Chapter 4B).
Whistling or wheezing noises
MLeaking inlet manifold or carburettor/throttle body gasket
(Chapter 4A or 4B).
MLeaking exhaust manifold gasket or pipe-to-manifold joint
(Chapter 4C).
MLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4A, 4B, 4C, 5, 9 and 12).
MBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A or 2B).
Tapping or rattling noises
MWorn valve gear or camshaft (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
Knocking or thumping noises
MWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load), (Chapter 2A or 2B).
MPiston slap (most noticeable when cold), (Chapter 2A).
MAncillary component fault (coolant pump, alternator, etc.)
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
REF•14Fault Finding
Engine (continued)

Note:For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the
faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.
Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few
days
MBattery defective internally (Chapter 5).
MBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
MAuxiliary drivebelt worn or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
MAlternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).
MAlternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).
MShort-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 12).
Ignition/no-charge warning light remains
illuminated with engine running
MAuxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
MAlternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).
MAlternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).
MInternal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).
MBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit
(Chapter 5).
Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
MWarning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).
MBroken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
(Chapter 12).
MAlternator faulty (Chapter 5).
Lights inoperative
MBulb blown (Chapter 12).
MCorrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).
MBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
MFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
MBroken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).
MFaulty switch (Chapter 12).
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Instrument readings increase with engine speed
MFaulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
MFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3, 4A and 4B).
MWiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).
MFaulty gauge (Chapter 12).
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading
MFaulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3, 4A and 4B).
MWiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).
MFaulty gauge (Chapter 12). MIncorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
MSteering rack or column bent or damaged (Chapter 10).
Excessive play in steering
MWorn steering column intermediate shaft universal joint
(Chapter 10).
MWorn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10).
MWorn rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).
MWorn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 10).
Lack of power assistance
MBroken or incorrectly adjusted auxiliary drivebelt (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect power steering fluid level (Chapter 1).
MRestriction in power steering fluid hoses (Chapter 1).
MFaulty power steering pump (Chapter 10).
MFaulty rack-and-pinion steering gear (Chapter 10).
Tyre wear excessive
Tyres worn on inside or outside edges
MTyres under-inflated (wear on both edges), (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only),
(Chapter 10).
MWorn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 10).
MExcessively hard cornering.
MAccident damage.
Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges
MIncorrect toe setting (Chapter 10).
Tyres worn in centre of tread
MTyres over-inflated (Chapter 1).
Tyres worn on inside and outside edges
MTyres under-inflated (Chapter 1).
Tyres worn unevenly
MTyres/wheels out of balance (Chapter 1).
MExcessive wheel or tyre run-out (Chapter 1).
MWorn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
MFaulty tyre (Chapter 1).
REF•18Fault Finding
Electrical system
Suspension and steering (continued)

oil and filter renewal - 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
oil cooler - 2B•10
oil level - 0•12
oil pump - 2A•28, 2B•9
piston rings - 2A•30
piston/connecting rod - 2A•29
removal - 2A•8, 2B•3
SOHC - 2A•1 et seq
sump - 2A•27, 2B•9
timing belt - 2A•13, 2B•3, 2B•6
undershield - 11•13
valve lifters - 2A•24, 2B•9
valves - 2A•5, 2B•2
Environmental considerations- REF•4
Exhaust manifold- 4C•5
Exhaust system check- 1•11, 4C•5
Expansion tank- 3•5
FFan (radiator)- 3•5
Fault diagnosis- REF•12 et seq
automatic transmission - REF•12, REF•16
braking system - REF•12, REF•17
clutch - REF•12, REF•15
cooling system - REF•12, REF•15
driveshafts - REF•12, REF•16
electrical system - REF•12, REF•18
engine - REF•12, REF•13
fuel and exhaust systems - REF•12, REF•15
manual transmission - REF•12, REF•16
steering - REF•12, REF•17
suspension - REF•12, REF•17
Flexplate (automatic transmission)- 2A•26
Flushing (cooling system)- 3•2
Flywheel- 2A•26
Foglamp- 12•11
Fuel and exhaust (carburettor) systems-
4A•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust (fuel injection) systems-
4B•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems - emissions-
4C•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems:
accelerator cable - 4A•5
accelerator pedal - 4A•5
air box - 4B•5
air cleaner - 1•3, 1•13, 4A•3, 4B•4
air pump/cut off valve - 4C•2
air temperature control - 4B•5
airflow meters - 4B•12
automatic choke - 4A•9
carbon canister - 4C•4
carburettor - 4A•5, 4A•11
catalytic converter - 4C•3
control unit - 4B•16
depressurising fuel system - 4B•5
EGR components - 4C•2
exhaust manifold - 4C•5
exhaust system check - 1•11, 4C•5
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
filler cap - 11•13
fuel filters - 1•3, 1•14, 4B•6
fuel flow damper - 4B•8
fuel injector(s) - 4B•13
fuel level sender unit - 4A•4, 4B•8
fuel pressure regulator - 4B•10
fuel pump - 4A•3, 4B•6fuel tank - 4A•4, 4B•7
fuel vapour separator - 4A•4
idle speed/mixture adjustment - 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
inlet manifold - 4A•12, 4B•17
knock sensor - 4B•17
lambda sensor - 4C•4
manifolds - 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
mixture (CO) - 4A•7, 4A•12, 4B•9
oxygen sensor - 4C•4
Pierburg 2E3 - 4A•5
potentiometer - 4B•12, 4B•16
throttle cable - 4A•5
throttle pedal - 4A•5
Fuses- 12•1, 12•3
GGear selector linkage- 7A•2
Gearbox - see Manual or Automatic
transmission
Gearbox oil- 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
Gearchange lever- 7A•3
Glass- 11•9
Glossary of technical terms- REF•20
Glove compartment- 11•18
HHandbrake adjustment- 9•18
Handbrake cables- 9•19
Handbrake lever- 9•20
Handles (door)- 11•7
Hazard warning switch- 12•4
Headlamp alignment- 12•10
Headlamp unit- 12•9
Headlining- 11•19
Heater blower motor switch- 12•4
Heater control panel- 3•6
Heater matrix- 3•7
Heating systems- 3•1 et seq
Horn- 12•8
Hose and fluid leak check- 0•9, 1•9
Hoses brake- 9•18
IIdle speed/mixture/adjustment- 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
Ignition coil- 5•9
Ignition switch- 12•3
Ignition system- 5•2
Igniton timing- 5•2, 5•13
Indicator lamps- 12•11
Indicator switch- 12•4
Injector(s)- 4B•13
Inlet manifold- 4A•12, 4B•17
Input shaft (clutch) oil seal- 7A•4
Instrument panel- 12•6
Interior lamps- 12•8
Interior trim panels- 11•14
Introduction to the Vauxhall Cavalier- 0•4
JJacking and vehicle support- REF•5
Jump starting- 0•7
KKickdown switch - 7B•3
Knock sensor- 4B•17
LLambda sensor- 4C•4
Lamps- 12•8, 12•9
Leaks- 0•9, 1•9
Light switch- 12•4
Locks bonnet- 11•4
Locks door- 11•8
Locks tailgate- 11•6
Lubricants and fluids- 0•17
MMain and big-end bearings- 2A•31
Maintenance - see Routine maintenance
Maintenance schedule- 1•4
Manifolds- 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
Manual transmission- 7A•1 et seq
differential bearing oil seals - 7A•3
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
gear selector linkage - 7A•2
gearbox oil - 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
gearchange lever - 7A•3
input shaft (clutch) oil seal - 7A•4
overhaul -7A•5
removal and refitting - 7A•4
reversing lamp switch - 7A•6
speedometer drive - 7A•6
Master cylinder (brake)- 9•13
Mirrors- 11•11
Mixture (CO)- 4A•7, 4B•9
MOT test checks- REF•8
Mountings (engine/transmission)- 2A•12,
2B•3
NNumber plate lamp- 12•11
OOil change- 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
Oil cooler- 2B•10
Oil filter- 1•2, 1•9
Oil pressure warning lamp switch- 12•5
Oil pump- 2A•28, 2B•9
Oil seals:
differential bearing - 7A•3
general - REF •4
camshaft - 2A•18, 2B•6
crankshaft - 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
Oils- 0•17, 1•2
Open-circuit, finding - 12•2
Oxygen sensor- 4C•4
PPads (brake)- 9•4
Paintwork damage- 11•2
Parts- REF•3
Pedals
brake - 9•21
clutch - 6•3
throttle - 4A•5
REF•26Index

Pierburg 2E3 carburettor- 4A•5
Piston rings- 2A•30
Piston/connecting rod- 2A•29
Plastic components- 11•3
Potentiometer- 4B•12, 4B•16
Power steering fluid - 0•14, 0•17, 1•2, 1•12
Power steering pump- 10•22
Power steering system bleeding- 10•22
Punctures- 0•8
RRadiator- 3•3
Radiator cooling fan- 3•5
Radiator grille- 11•12
Radio/cassette anti theft system- REF•5
Radio/cassette player- 12•18
Rear hub- 10•10, 10•15
Rear lamps- 12•11
Rear suspension assembly- 10•15
Relays- 12•3
Release bearing (clutch)- 6•6
Repair procedures- REF •4
Respraying- 11•2
Reversing lamp switch- 7A•6
Road test- 1•13
Roll bars- 10•8, 10•13, 10•17
Routine maintenance - 1•1 et seq
SSafety first!- 0•5
Scratches- 11•2
Seat belts- 11•21
Seats- 11•20, 11•22
Seats heated- 12•6
Selector cable (automatics)- 7B•4
Selector lever- 7B•4
Sender unit fuel level- 4A•4, 4B•8
Sender units (temperature gauge)- 3•6
Servicing - see Routine maintenance
Servo unit (braking system)- 9•15
Shock absorber- 10•11
Shoes (brake)- 9•6
Short-circuit finding- 12•2
Spark plugs- 1•3, 1•14, 1•16
Speakers- 12•17
Speedometer cable- 12•18
Speedometer drive- 7A•6
Starter inhibitor switch- 7B•3
Starter motor- 5•8
Starting problems- 0•6
Steering wheel alignment- 10•1, 10•24
Steering- 10•1 et seq
camber - 10•1 10•24
castor - 10•1, 10•24
column - 10•18
damper - 10•21
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•17gear - 10•21
power steering system bleeding - 10•22
power steering fluid - 0•17, 1•2
power steering pump - 10•22
shaft rubber coupling - 10•18
tie-rod end - 10•23
toe setting - 10•1, 10•24
wheel - 10•17
wheel bearing - 10•4, 10•9, 10•14
wheel with airbag - 12•20
Stub axle- 10•13
Subframe- 10•5
Sump- 2A•27, 2B•9
Sunroof- 11•13
Sunroof motor- 12•18
Sunroof switch- 12•5
Suspension- 10•1 et seq
anti-roll bars - 10•8, 10•13, 10•17
assembly (rear) - 10•15
coil spring (rear) - 10•12, 10•15
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•17
level control system - 10•14
lower arm (front) - 10•7
rear hub - 10•10, 10•15
shock absorber - 10•11
strut (front) - 10•6
stub axle - 10•13
sub frame - 10•5
trailing arms - 10•12, 10•16
wheel bearing - 10•4, 10•9, 10•14
Suspension/steering checks- 1•10
Switches:
brake lamp - 12•5
cooling fan - 3•6
courtesy lamp - 12•5
electric door mirror - 12•5
handbrake warning lamp - 12•5
hazard warning - 12•4
heater blower motor - 12•4
ignition - 12•3
indicator - 12•4
kickdown - 7B•3
lights - 12•4
luggage compartment - 12•5
oil pressure warning lamp - 12•5
push button - 12•4
reversing lamp - 7A•6
starter inhibitor - 7B•3
sunroof - 12•5
TTailgate- 11•5
Temperature gauge sender- 3•6
Temperature sensor (automatics)- 7B•5
Thermostat- 3•4
Throttle cable- 4A•5, 4B•9
Throttle pedal- 4A•5Tie-rod end- 10•23
Timing- 5•2, 5•13
Timing belt- 1•16, 2A•13, 2B•3, 2B•6
Toe setting- 10•1, 10•24
Tools and working facilities- REF•4, REF•6,
REF•7
Towing- 0•9
Trim panel (door)- 11•6
Tyre checks- 0•16, 0•17
Tyre pressures- 0•17
UUnderbody- 11•1
Underbody views- 1•7
Underbonnet views- 0•10, 1•5
Upholstery and carpets- 11•2
VVacuum servo unit (braking system)- 9•15
Valve lifters- 2A•24, 2B•9
Valves- 2A•5, 2B•2
Vehicle identification numbers- REF•3
Ventilation system- 3•1 et seq
Vents- 3•8
WWasher fluid- 0•13, 1•2
Washers- 12•13, 12•15
Water pump- 3•4
Weekly checks- 0•10et seq
Wheelalignment- 10•1, 10•24
Wheel arch liners- 11•12
Wheel bearing- 10•4, 10•9, 10•14
Wheel changing- 0•8
Wheel cylinder- 9•11
Window glass- 11•9
Window regulator- 11•10
Windscreen- 11•9, 11•12
Wiper blades- 0•15, 12•13
Wiper motors- 12•14
Wiring diagrams- 12•22 et seq
Index REF•27
REF