ESP PONTIAC FIREBIRD 1994 User Guide

Your Driving and the Road
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Dyz’ving ut Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day
driving. Oqe reason is that some drivers
are likely to be impaired
- by alcohol or
drugs, with night vision problems, or by
fatigue.
Here are some tips on night driving.
Drive defensively.
Don’t drink and drive.
Adjust your inside rearview mirror to
reduce the glare from headlights
behind you.
0 Since you can’t see as well, you may
need to slow down and keep more
space between you and other vehicles.
Slow down, especially on higher
speed roads. Your headlights can
up only
so much road ahead. light
0 In
remote areas, watch for animals.
0 If you’re tired, pull off the road in a
safe place and rest.
Night Vision
No one can see as well at night as in the
daytime. But as we get older these
differences increase. A 50-year-old driver
may require at least twice as much light to
see the same thing at night as a
20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also
affect your night vision. For example, if
you spend the day in bright sunshine you
are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes
will have less trouble adjusting to night.
But if you’re driving, don’t wear
sunglasses at night. They may cut down
on glare from headlights, but they also
make a lot of things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by
approaching lights. It can take a second or
twQ, or even several seconds, for your
eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are
faced with severe glare (as from a driver
who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlights), slow
down
a little. Avoid staring directly into
the approaching lights.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on
your vehicle clean
- inside and out.
Glare at night is made much worse by dirt
on the glass. Even the inside of the glass
can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty
glass makes lights dazzle and flash more
than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that your headlights light up
far less of a roadway when you are in a
turn or curve.
Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s
easier to pick out dimly lighted objects.
Just as your headlights should be
checked regularly for proper aim,
so
should your eyes be examiqed regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness
- the inability to see in dim light - and
aren’t even aware of it.
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Your Driving and the Road
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much
water can build up under your tires that
they can actually ride on the water. This
can happen if the road is wet enough and
you’re going fast enough. When your
vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little
or no
contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires haven’t much tread or if
the pressure in one or more is low. It can
happen if a lot of water is standing on the
road. If you can see reflections from trees,
telephone poles, or other vehicles, and
raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface,
there could be hydroplaning. Hydroplaning usually happens at higher
speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast
rule about hydroplaning. The best advice
is to slow down when it is raining.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Turn on your low-beam headlights -
not just your parking lights - to help
make
you more visible to others.
Besides slowing down, allow some
extra following distance. And be
especially careful when you pass
another vehicle. Allow yourself more
clear room ahead, and be prepared to
have your view restricted by road
spray.
Have good tires with proper tread
depth. (See “Tires” in the Index.)
City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city
streets is the amount of traffic on them.
You’ll want to watch out for what the
other drivers are doing and pay attention
to traffic signals.
Here are ways to increase your safety in
city driving:
Know the best way to get to where
you are going. Get a city map and plan
your trip into an unknown part of the
city just as you would for a
cross-country trip.
Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next
section, “Freeway Driving.”)
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Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch
equipment. Crosswinds, large trucks
going by, and rough roads are a few
reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
0
0
Will you have to make any holes in
the body of your vehicle when you
install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t
seal them, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide”
in the Index). Dirt and water can,
too.
The bumpers on your vehicle are not
intended for hitches.
Do not attach
rental hitches or other bumper-type
hitches to them. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not
attach to the bumper.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between
your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the
safety chains under the tongue of the
trailer
so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the
hitch. Instructions about safety chains
may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or
by the trailer
, 1.
manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety
chains. Always leave just enough slack
so
you can turn with your rig. And, never
allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000
pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its
own brakes
- and they must be adequate.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to
install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Because you have anti-lock brakes, do not
try to tap into your vehicle’s brake
system. If
YOU do, both brake systems
won’t work well, or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount
of experience. Before setting out for the
open road, you’ll want to get to know
your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel
of handling and braking with the added
weight
of the trailer. And always keep in
mind that ’the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive
as your vehicle is by itself. Before you
start, check the trailer hitch
and platform, safety chains, electrical
connector, lights, tires and mirror
adjustment. If
the trailer has electric
brakes,
start your vehicle and trailer
moving and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure the brakes
are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to
be sure that the load is secure,. and that
the lights and any trailer brakes are still
working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the
vehicle ahead as you would when driving
your vehicle without a trailer.,,This can
help
you avoid situations that’.require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up
ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And,
because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll
need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to
your lane.
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When You Are Ready to Leave after
Parking on a
Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold
the pedal down while you:
0 Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
0 Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear
4. Stop and have someone pick up and
of the chocks.
store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often
when you're pulling a trailer. See the
Maintenance Schedule for more on this.
Things that are especially important in
trailer operation are automatic
transmission fluid (don't overfill), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system,
and brake adjustment. Each of these
is
covered in this manual, and the Index will
help you find them quickly. If you're
trailering, it's a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch
nuts and bolts .are tight.
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Problems on the Road
9. Shut the engine off and replace the
pressure cap. Be sure the arrows
on
the cap line up like this.
I
0. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to
;or a complete drain, flush and refill, see
‘our Pontiac dealer or a Pontiac Firebird
Iervice Manual. To purchase a service
nanual, see “Service Publications’’ in
he Index. the proper
level.
If a Tire Goes Flat
[t’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while
you’re driving, especially
if you maintain
your tires properly. If air goes out of a
;ire, it’s much more likely to leak out
jlowly. But if you should ever have a
‘blowout,” here are a few tips about what
:o expect and what to do:
[fa front tire fails, the
flat tire will create
3 drag that pulls the vehicle toward that
side. Take your foot off the accelerator
pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position,
then
gently brake to a stop well out of the
traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve,
acts much like a
slud and may require the
same correction you’d use in a skid. In
any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle
under control by steering the way you
want the vehicle to go.
It may be very
bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer.
Gently brake to a stop, well
off the road
if possible.
[f a tire goes flat, the next section shows
how to use your jacking equipment to
change a flat tire safely.
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Service and Appearance Care
NOTICE:
Fuel that is more than 5% methanol
is bad for your vehicle. Don’t use it.
It can corrode metal parts in your fuel
system and also damage plastic and
rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t
be covered under your warranty. And
even at
5% or less, there must be
“cosolvents” and corrosion prevent-
ers in this fuel to help avoid these
problems.
Gasolines for Cleaner Air
Your use of gasoline with deposit control
additives will help prevent deposits from
forming in your engine and fuel system.
That helps keep your engine in tune and
your emission control system working
properly. It’s good for your vehicle, and
you’ll be doing your part for cleaner air.
Many gasalines are now blended with
oxygenates. General Motors recommend:
that you use gasolines with these blendin,
materials, such as MTBE and ethanol. BJ
doing
so, you can help clean the air,
especially
in those parts of the country
that have high carbon monoxide levels. n
addition, some gasoline suppliers are
low producing reformulated gasolines.
rhese gasolines are specially designed to
.educe vehicle emissions. General Motors
-ecommends that you use reformulated
;asoline. By doing
so, you can help clean
:he air, especially in those parts of the
:ountry that have high ozone levels.
You should ask your service station
3perators if their gasolines contain deposit
:ontrol additives and oxygenates, and
if
:hey have been reformulated to reduce
vehicle emissions.
Fuels in Foreign Countries
[f you plan on driving in another country
outside the
U.S. or Canada, unleaded fuel
may be hard to find. Do not use leaded
gasoline, If you use even one tankful,
your emission controls won’t work well
or at all. With continuous use, spark plugs
can get fouled, the exhaust system can
corrode, and your engine oil can
deteriorate quickly. Your vehicle’s oxygen
sensor will be damaged. All of that means
costly repairs that wouldn’t be covered by
your warranty.
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto
:lub, or contact a major oil company that
Joes business in the country where you’ll
,e driving.
You can also write us at the following
iddress for advice. Just tell
us where
you’re going and give your Vehicle
Identification Number (VIN).
General Motors Overseas Distribution
North American Export Sales (NAES) 1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario
LlH 8P7
Canada Corporation
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Service and Appearance Care
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change:
A good time to check your automatic
transmission fluid level
is when the
engine oil is changed. Refer to the
Maintenance Schedule to determine when
to change your fluid. See “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check:
Because this operation can be a little
difficult, you may choose to have this
done at a Pontiac dealership Service
Department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all
the instructions here, or
you could get a
false reading on the dipstick.
Too much or too little fluid can
damage your transmission. Too much
can mean that some of the fluid could
come out and fall on hot engine parts
or exhaust system, starting a fire. Be
sure to get an accurate reading
if you
check your transmission fluid. Wait
at least 30 minutes before checking
the transmission fluid level if you have
been driving:
When outside temperatures are above
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic - especially in hot
90°F (32°C).
weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should
be at normal operating temperature,
which is 180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
To check transmission fluid hot: Get
the vehicle warmed up by driving
about
15 miles (24 km) when outside
temperatures
are above 50°F ( 10°C).
If it’s colder than 50°F ( lO”C), drive
the vehicle in
“D’ (Third Gear) until the
engine temperature gage moves and then
remains steady for
ten minutes. Then
follow the hot check procedures.
To check transmission fluid cold: A cold
check is made after the vehicle has been
sitting for eight hours or more with the
engine
off and is used only as a reference.
Let the engine run at idle for five minutes
if outside temperatures are 50°F
(10°C)
or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (lO°C),
you may have to idle the engine longer.
Should the fluid level be low during a
cold check, you must perform a hot check
before adding fluid. This will give you a
more accurate reading of the fluid level.
To check the fluid hot or cold:
0
Park your vehicle on a level place.
With the parking brake applied, place
the shift lever
in “P” (Park).
With your foot on the brake pedal,
move the shift lever through each gear
range, pausing for about three seconds
in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in “P” (Park).
Let the engine
run at idle for three
minutes or more.
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Service and Appearance Care
If the fluid level is low, add only enough
of the proper fluid to bring the level up to
the “COLD’ area for a cold check or the
“HOT” area for a hot check. It doesn’t
take much fluid, generally less than a pint.
Don’t overfill. We recommend you use
only fluid labeled DEXRON@-I11 or
DEXRON@-IIE, because fluids with
that label are made especially for your
automatic transmission. Dama
e caused
by fluid other than DEXRON
-111 or
DEXRON@-IIE is not covered by your
new vehicle warranty.
0 After adding fluid, recheck the fluid
level as described under
“How to
Check.”
obtained, push the dipstick back in all
the way.
&
When the correct fluid level is
Manual Transmission Fluid
How to Check:
Because this operation can be difficult,
you may choose to have this done at a
Pontiac dealership Service Department.
If you
do it yourself, be sure to follow all
the instructions here, or you could get a
false reading.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can
damage your transmission.
Too rriuch
can mean that some of the fluid could
come out and fall
on hot engine parts
or exhaust system, starting a
fire. Be
sure to get
an accurate reading if you
check your transmission fluid.
Check the fluid level only when your
engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a
level place and the transmission is cool
enough for you to rest your fingers on the
transmission case.
Then, follow these steps:
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Check that the lubricant level is up to
the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. If the fluid level is good, install the
plug and be sure it is fully seated. If
the fluid level is low, add more fluid
as described in the next steps.
How to Add Fluid:
Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the
Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add
only enough fluid to bring the fluid
level up to the bottom of the filler
plug hole.
3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug
is fully seated.
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When to Check: Check your tires once a
month or more. Don’t forget your
compact spare tire. It should be at
60 psi
(420 kPa).
How to Check: Use a good quality
pocket-type gage to check tire pressure.
Simply looking at the tires will not tell
you the pressure, especially
if you have
radial tires
- which may look properly
inflated even if they’re underinflated.
If your tires have valve caps, be sure to
put them back on. They help prevent
leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Tire Inspection and Rotation
To make your tires last longer, have them
inspected and rotated at the mileages
recommended in the Maintenance
Schedule. See “Scheduled Maintenance
Services” in the Index.
If you don’t have P245/50ZR16 size tires:
use the rotation pattern shown above for
your size tires.
I1
II
0
SI
B
SI
e:
b
’ fl
A
tl
SI
12
P:
T
4-
-I-
4-
-a4
F you have P245/50ZR16 size tires, they
lust roll in a certain direction for the besl
vera11 performance. The direction is
hown by an arrow on both sidewalls.
lecause these tires are directional, they
hould be rotated as shown in the
xample above. These tires should only
e moved from front to rear and rear to
-ont on the same side of the vehicle.
Lfter the tires have been rotated, adjust
le front and rear inflation pressure as
Sown
on the Tire-Loading Information
lbel. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
roperly tightened. See “Wheel Nut
orque” in the Index.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the
system developed by the United States
National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature
performance.
(This applies only to
vehicles sold in the United States.)
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative
rating based on the wear rate of the tire
when tested under controlled conditions
on a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded 150 would
wear one and a half
(1 1/2) times as well
on the government course as a tire graded
100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of
their use, however, and may depart
significantly from the norm due to
variations in driving habits, service
practices and differences in road
characteristics and climate.
Traction - A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to
lowest are: A,
B, and C. They represent
the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement
as measured under controlled conditions
on specified government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C
may have poor traction performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to
this tire is based on braking
(straight-ahead) traction tests and does
not include cornering (turning) traction.
Temperature - A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the
highest),
B, and C, representing the tire’s
resistance to the generation of heat and its
3bility to dissipate heat when tested under
:ontrolled conditions on a specified indoor
laboratory test wheel. Sustained
high temperature can cause the material
of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire
life, and excessive temperature can lead
to sudden tire failure. The grade
C
corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet
under
the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard No.
109. Grades B and A
represent higher levels of performance
on the laboratory test wheel than the
minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for
this tire is established for a tire that is
properly inflated and not overloaded.
Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately ,,or
in combination, can cause heat buildup
and possible tire failure.
Those grades are molded on the sidewalls
of passenger car tires.
While the tires available as standard or
optional equipment on General Motors
vehicles may
vary with respect to these
grades, all such tires meet General Motors
performance standards and have been
approved for use on General Motors
vehicles. All passenger type
(P Metric)
tires must conform to Federal safety
requirements in addition to these grades.
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