tow PONTIAC G6 2006 Owner's Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: PONTIAC, Model Year: 2006, Model line: G6, Model: PONTIAC G6 2006Pages: 416, PDF Size: 2.66 MB
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Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And
if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to
the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-33
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum
load capacity.If you are using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue (A) should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total
loaded trailer weight (B).
After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are in ated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You will nd these numbers on the
Tire-Loading Information label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.
Then be sure you do not go over the GVW limit for
your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
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Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the
hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your
vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-37. Dirt and
water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes?
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes so you will be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly. And because you may have
anti-lock brakes, do not try to tap into your vehicle’s
brake system. If you do, both systems will not work well,
or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when you
are towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed
vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid
jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. Check
with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument
panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or lane
change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you are about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It
is important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
When towing a trailer on long uphill grades and the
outside temperature is above 85°F (29°C), reduce your
vehicle speed to 45 mph (72 km/h) to avoid overheating
the engine cooling system.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here is
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P) for an automatic transaxle or into
gear for a manual transaxle. When parking uphill,
turn your wheels away from the curb. When parking
downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you are
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for
more on this. Things that are especially important in
trailer operation are automatic transaxle uid (do
not over ll), engine oil, drive belt, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you nd them quickly. If you
are trailering, it is a good idea to review this information
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating on
page 5-30.
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
B. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-37.
C. Automatic Transaxle Fluid Dipstick (out of view). See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transaxle Fluid (2.4L LE5 and 3.5L LX9 Engines) on
page 5-23
orAutomatic Transaxle Fluid (3.9L LZ9 Engine)
on page 5-24.
D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-17.
E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-17.
F. Engine Coolant Reservoir. SeeEngine Coolant
on page 5-27.
G. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-39.
H. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-42.
I. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-38.
J. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-100.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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