traction control PONTIAC GTO 2006 User Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: PONTIAC, Model Year: 2006, Model line: GTO, Model: PONTIAC GTO 2006Pages: 326, PDF Size: 1.62 MB
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To turn the system off,
press the T/C button. On
manual transmission
vehicles, the button is
located on the driver's side
of the center console. On
automatic transmission
vehicles, the button is
located on the passenger's
side of the shift lever.
When you turn the system off, a Traction Ctrl Off
message is displayed on the trip computer. After
two seconds, the display goes back to the original trip
computer display with a small TRAC OFF message
on the right.
If the Traction Ctrl Off message does not display when
the button is pressed, or if it comes on during driving,
a problem is indicated in the system and traction
control is no longer operational. You should contact
your dealer for service.
Pressing the T/C button again or the next time the
ignition is turned on, will turn the system back on. The
Traction Ctrl On message is displayed on the trip
computer. After two seconds, the display goes back to
the original trip computer display. See
Trip Computer
on page 3-33for more information.Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle's
performance. See
Accessories and Modi®cations
on page 5-3for more information.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the ªdriver lost controlº accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia
will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If
you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you
will understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle
at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you
are in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
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Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control
systems Ð steering and braking Ð have to do their work
where the tires meet the road. Unless you have
four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can
demand too much of those places. You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you are steering through
a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two
control systems Ð steering and acceleration Ð can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road
and make you lose control. See
Traction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-9.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the
way you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your
front wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can ªdriveº through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle's
performance. See
Accessories and Modi®cations
on page 5-3.
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective
than braking. For example, you come over a hill and ®nd
a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls
out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between
parked cars and stops right in front of you. You
can avoid these problems by braking Ð if you can stop
in time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room.
That is the time for evasive action Ð steering around
the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply your brakes Ð but, unless you
have anti-lock brakes, not enough to lock your wheels.
See
Braking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as
much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then
steer around the problem, to the left or right depending
on the space available.
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A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.
Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only
the acceleration skid. If your traction control system is
off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled
by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration,
or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize
warning clues Ð such as enough water, ice, or packed
snow on the road to make a mirrored surface Ð and
slow down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.Competitive Driving
See your warranty book before using your vehicle for
competitive driving.
Notice:If you use your vehicle for racing or other
competitive driving, the engine may use more
oil than it would with normal use. Low oil levels can
damage the engine. Be sure to check the oil level
often during racing or other competitive driving and
keep the level at or near the upper mark that
shows the proper operating range on the engine oil
dipstick. For information on how to add oil, see
Engine Oil on page 5-13.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet
road, you cannot stop, accelerate, or turn as well
because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on dry
roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread left, you
will get even less traction. It is always wise to go slower
and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving.
The surface may get wet suddenly when your re¯exes
are tuned for driving on dry pavement.The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy
rain can make it harder to see road signs and
traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road,
and even people walking.
It is wise to keep your windshield wiping equipment in
good shape and keep your windshield washer ¯uid
reservoir ®lled with washer ¯uid. Replace your
windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of
streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when
strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not
work as well in a quick stop and may cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly
until your brakes work normally.
Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems,
too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid
puddles. But if you cannot, try to slow down before
you hit them.
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Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You
will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to
be very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32ÉF (0ÉC), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition Ð smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow Ð drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle
has the Traction Control System (TCS), you will want to
slow down and adjust your driving to the road
conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to
turn the TCS off, such as when driving through
deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle
motion at lower speeds. See
Traction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-9. Also see ªWinter Tiresº underTires
on page 5-51.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment ®re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little as
possible. Do not spin the wheels above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, see
Tire Chains on page 5-67.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. If your
vehicle has traction control, you should turn the system
off. See
Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-9.
Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
For a manual transmission, shift slowly between
either FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R),
allowing the wheels to stop before shifting into
gear. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and
press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the
transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels
in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause
a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that does
not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be
towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see
Towing
Your Vehicle on page 4-34.
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Service
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to
be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer
for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts
and GM-trained and supported service people.
We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modi®cations
When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they
can affect your vehicle's performance and safety,
including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride
and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics,
durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes,
traction control and stability control. Some of these
accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not
covered by warranty.
GM Accessories are designed to complement and
function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM
dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine
GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and
ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained
and supported service technicians will perform the
work using genuine GM Accessories.
California Proposition 65 Warning
Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or
emit chemicals known to the State of California to
cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems
(including some inside the vehicle), many ¯uids, and
some component wear by-products contain and/or emit
these chemicals.
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Buying New Tires
GM has developed and matched speci®c tires for your
vehicle. The original equipment tires installed on
your vehicle, when it was new, were designed to meet
General Motors tire performance criteria. GM's tire
performance criteria considers over a dozen critical
speci®cations that impact the overall performance
of your vehicle, including brake system performance,
ride and handling, and traction control. If you need
replacement tires, GM strongly recommends that you
replace your vehicle's tires with the same size, load
range, speed rating, and construction type (radial and
bias-belted tires) as your vehicle's original tires.
This way, your vehicle will continue to have tires that
are designed to give the same performance and vehicle
safety, during normal use, as the original tires.
{CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control
while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes,
brands, or types (radial and bias-belted tires),
the vehicle may not handle properly, and you
could have a crash.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Using tires of different sizes, brands, or types
may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be
sure to use the correct size, brand, and type of
tires on all wheels. It is all right to drive with
your compact spare temporarily, as it was
developed for use on your vehicle. See
Compact Spare Tire on page 5-76.
{CAUTION:
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the
wheel rim ¯anges could develop cracks after
many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel
could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only
radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
Your vehicle's original equipment tires are listed on the
Tire and Loading Information Label. This label is
attached to the vehicle's center pillar (B-pillar). See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-29, for more information
about the Tire and Loading Information Label and its
location on your vehicle.
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Different Size Tires and Wheels
If you add wheels or tires that are a different size than
your original equipment wheels and tires, this may
affect the way your vehicle performs, including its
braking, ride and handling characteristics, stability and
resistance to rollover. Additionally, if your vehicle
has electronic systems such as, anti-lock brakes,
traction control, and electronic stability control, the
performance of these systems can be affected.
{CAUTION:
If you add different sized wheels, your vehicle
may not provide an acceptable level of
performance and safety if tires not
recommended for those wheels are selected.
You may increase the chance that you will
crash and suffer serious injury. Only use GM
speci®c wheel and tire systems developed for
your vehicle, and have them properly installed
by a GM certi®ed technician.
See
Buying New Tires on page 5-63andAccessories
and Modi®cations on page 5-3for additional information.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Quality grades can be found where applicable on the
tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum
section width. For example:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), which grades
tires by treadwear, traction, and temperature
performance. This applies only to vehicles sold in the
United States. The grades are molded on the sidewalls
of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality
Grading (UTQG) system does not apply to deep
tread, winter-type snow tires, space-saver, or temporary
use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of
10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some
limited-production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
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Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a speci®ed government test course.
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and
a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as
a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart signi®cantly from the norm
due to variations in driving habits, service practices, and
differences in road characteristics and climate.
Traction ± AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire's ability
to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on speci®ed government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
traction performance.
Warning:The traction grade assigned to this tire is
based on straight-ahead braking traction tests, and does
not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or
peak traction characteristics.
Temperature ± A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire's resistance to the generation
of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested
under controlled conditions on a speci®ed indoor
laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can
cause the material of the tire to degenerate and
reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to
sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a
level of performance which all passenger car tires must
meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of
performance on the laboratory test wheel than the
minimum required by law.
Warning:The temperature grade for this tire is
established for a tire that is properly in¯ated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underin¯ation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
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