wheel SAAB 9-3 2001 Workshop Manual

220 Car careDate codeTires should be regarded as perishable
goods. As the tires age, the rubber becomes
progressively harder, and the roadholding
ability of the tires diminishes. This is partic-
ularly true on winter tires.
Tires now have a date-code marking for the
year of manufacture. The first two digits
denote the week number and the last two
digits the year. The ”<” symbol points to the
year.
Accordingly, a date code of 0200 signifies
that the tire was manufactured in week 02,
2000.
Wear indicatorsThe tires incorporate wear indicators in the
form of smooth, treadless strips across the
width, which become visible when only
2/32" (1.6 mm) of tread remains. As soon as
the indicators become visible, new tires
should be fitted without delay.
Make sure you are familiar with the legal
limit for minimum tread depth in your
country and also any regulations gov-
erning the use of winter tires.
Compact spare wheelThe compact spare is light and easy to
handle when changing the wheel. Its use is
only permitted when a standard wheel has
sustained a puncture. The maximum life of
the wheel is only 2000 miles (3,500 km).
Do not exceed 50 mph (80 km/h) with the
compact spare fitted.
The compact spare should be inflated to
60 psi (420 kPa). Carry the punctured tire in
the spare-wheel well under the trunk floor.
Have the standard wheel repaired and refit-
ted as soon as possible
Driving considerations with compact spare
wheel/tire fitted, see page 190.
The spare wheel, the tools and the jack with
its crank are carried under a panel in the
trunk.
IB1564
Date code
IB998
Wear indicators
IB921
Spare wheel (under the carpet in the
trunk)
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221 Car care
When changing a wheel, take the tool kit out
first, then the spare wheel.
Changing a wheel
If light-alloy wheels have been fitted to the
car for several years and a change is made
to steel wheels, the threads for the wheel
bolts in the brake discs should be cleaned
before the thinner steel wheels are fitted.
The innermost threads in the holes may be
clogged with sand, salt and rust so that the
correct tightening torque cannot be
achieved.
NOTETo avoid damaging a punctured alloy
wheel this can be placed outside up in the
spare-wheel well but only while driving to
the closest workshop.
A general rule is that all heavy loads must
be well secured in the luggage compart-
ment, see page 148.
WARNING
 The car jack is designed solely for use
in changing a wheel or fitting snow
chains. It must not be used to support
the car during repair work or servicing.
 Never crawl under a car that is
supported only by a jack.
 Special care must be taken if the car is
on a slope – use wheel chocks!
 Position chocks, one ahead and one
behind, the wheel that is diagonally
opposite to the one to be changed.
 Switch on the hazard warning lights if
the car is on a road.
 Apply the parking brake and leave the
car in gear (1st or reverse). Automatic
transmission: move selector to the
P position.
 Ensure that everybody is out of the car
before jacking it up.
 Never start the engine while the car is
jacked up.
 The jack must stand on a firm, level
surface.
 Stow the jack in the place provided for
it under the panel in the floor of the
trunk. Secure it properly to avoid injury
to passengers in the event of an acci-
dent.
 Do not use the jack for any purpose
other than for jacking up the car.
IB1261IB1262
Spare wheel (under the carpet in the
trunk), Saab 9-3 Viggen
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222 Car careWhen it is time to raise the car, apply the
jack to one of the four jacking points (front or
rear) located beneath the sills.
If a floor jack is used it can be applied to the
standard jacking points used by the dealer
or centrally under the front of the engine
subframe. If the car is equipped with a trailer
hitch, the jack can also be placed under the
hitch. 1 Put the car in 1st gear (automatic trans-
mission: move selector to the P position)
and apply the parking brake.
Saab 9-3 Viggen: The front and rear
jacking points are located behind covers
that must be removed.
2 Wind the jack up to a suitable height
before placing it under the recess in the
sill.
3 Make sure that the jack fully engages
the recess in the sill and that the base of
the jack is steady and flat on the ground.
4 Turn the jack handle clockwise until it
just begins to lift the car. 5 Remove the wheel cover (where appli-
cable). Loosen the wheel bolts by half a
turn.
6 Turn the jack handle to raise the wheel
clear of the ground. Remove the wheel
bolts and lift off the wheel.
7 Fit the wheel and screw in the bolts in the
sequence shown (opposite pairs).
Tighten the studs enough for the studs
and wheel to be seated correctly.
See page 224 for sequence.NOTEDo not position the jack under the rear
axle or under the rear floor.
IB924
Pos i ti o n for j ack
IB1538
Positioning the jack
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223 Car care
8 Lower the car and tighten the wheel
bolts to the correct torque in the
sequence shown (opposite pairs).
Tightening torque:
Light-alloy wheels: 80 ft.lbs (110 Nm).
Steel wheels: 80 ft.lbs (110 Nm).
Do not overtighten the bolts using an
impact wrench: not only can this
damage the wheels but it can also make
it impossible to undo the bolts using the
wheel wrench in the car’s toolkit.9 Recheck the wheel bolts after a few
miles.
Tightening torque:
Light-alloy wheels: 80 ft.lbs (110 Nm)
Steel wheels: 80 ft.lbs (110 Nm)
We advise against using wheels with open
wheel covers in winter, as the brake compo-
nents are then more exposed both to slush
and to road salt and grit.
Tire chains; see page 178.
NOTE
When refitting wheel covers (where
applicable), make sure that the valve
protrudes through the hole in the wheel
cover.
NOTESaab 9-3 Viggen: The minimum permis-
sible wheel diameter is 16”, due to the
size of the brake discs.
IB1174
Position for jack, Saab 9-3 Viggen
IB1311
Jacking points for a floor jack.
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224 Car care
Flat spottingAll tires get hot, especially on long journeys
or when the car is driven hard. After the car
has been parked with hot tires and the tires
have cooled down, a flat spot can form in the
tire, where it is in contact with the ground.
The same can occur if the car has not been
moved for a long time.
Flat spots can cause vibration that can be
felt through the steering wheel, similar to
that experienced when the wheels need bal-
ancing. Flat spots of this type disappear
once the tires get hot again, usually after
10–15 miles (20–25 km) of driving at cruis-
ing speed.
Safety beltsA check should be made periodically to
ensure that the safety belts are working
properly.
 Hold the diagonal strap and pull it sharply.
The safety belt should lock and it should
not be possible to withdraw it further.
A sharp tug on the belt should cause the
inertia reel to lock. Check the floor anchor-
age points for corrosion damage. If a belt is
worn or has any fraying edges, it should be
replaced.
Safety belts must not come into contact with
substances such as polishes, oil or chemi-
cals. If the belts get dirty, wash them with
warm water and a detergent or have them
replaced.
WARNING
Safety belts and belt pretensioners that
were in use in a serious collision must be
replaced even if they are not visibly
damaged.
No attempt must be made to repair, or
modify the function of, safety belts.
IB923
Removing the wheel cover
IB925
Tightening sequence, wheel bolts
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228 Car careTwo-coat enamelAs the name implies, two-coat enamel is
applied in two operations. The first coat, the
base color, contains the pigment, metal
flakes and binder. The second coat consists
of a clear enamel, which provides the final
gloss for the paintwork and protects the
base from moisture and environmental con-
taminants.
Touch-up stone-chip damage as follows:
1 Thoroughly clean the damaged area.
2 Then apply the primer, base color, and
finally, the enamel. To achieve the best
finish, apply two or three coats of primer.
Anti-corrosion
treatmentThe entire car is corrosion-protected at the
factory in different stages by an electrolytic
immersion coating and a polyester-based
protective coating to protect against corro-
sion caused by stones flung up by the
wheels. A thin penetrating anti-rust oil is
also applied in cavities and body members.
In addition to conventional anti-corrosion
treatment like painting, underbody treat-
ment and cavity treatment, most of the body
panel surfaces are galvanized. These
include the hood, the doors and the under-
body.
The anti-corrosion treatment on the under-
side of the car and inside the wheel arches
is particularly exposed to constant wear and
possible damage, the degree of which will
obviously depend on driving conditions.
IB1334
Surface-treatment composition 1 Body panel
2 Zinc (certain parts) 7.5 µm
3 Phosphate coating
4 Cathodic ED 28 µm
5 Intermediate coat 35 µm
6 Metallic base/solid base15 µm
7 Clear enamel 40 µm
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229 Car care
What causes rust?Steel body panels of automobiles are sub-
ject to rusting whenever air and moisture
manage to penetrate the protective finish.
Body panels may rust through if the process
is unchecked. Rusting can occur wherever
water is trapped or where the car’s panels
are continuously damp.
Damage to paint and undercoating by
stones, gravel and minor accidents immedi-
ately exposes metal to air and moisture.
Road salts used for de-icing will collect on
the bottom of the car and promote rusting.
Areas of the country with high humidity have
a greater potential for rust problems, espe-
cially where salt is used on roads or there is
moist sea air. Industrial pollution (fallout)
may also damage paint and promote rust-
ing.
Preventive maintenanceThe following procedures are necessary to
help protect against rusting. Refer also to
the terms and conditions of the Performa-
tion Limited Warranty described in the war-
ranty booklet.
1Wash the car frequently, and wax at
least twice a year. Under adverse con-
ditions, where there is a rapid buildup of
dirt, sand or road salt, wash your car at
least once a week. After extreme expo-
sure to salted snow or slush, evidenced
by a white film on the car, wash the car
immediately. Frequent washing will pre-
vent paint damage from acid rain and
other airborne contaminants such as
tree sap and bird droppings. If any of
these contaminants are noticed on the
car the finish should be washed immedi-
ately.
 Begin washing by rinsing the entire car
with water to loosen and flush off heavy
concentrations of dirt (include the
underbody).
 Sponge the car with a solution of either
a good quality car soap or mild general
purpose (dish washing) detergent and
water.
 Rinse car thoroughly with clean water.
 After washing, check and clear all
drains in doors and body panels.
 Wipe the car dry, preferably using a
chamois.2Clean the underside of the car during
the winter. Use high pressure water to
clean the car’s underside (floor panels,
wheel wells) at least at mid- winter and
in the spring.
3Inspect the car frequently for leaks or
damage, and arrange for needed
repairs promptly. After washing or after
heavy rain, check for leaks. When wash-
ing the car inspect body surfaces for
paint damage. While checking for leaks,
lift the floor mats and check underneath
them. Water can collect in these areas
and remain for prolonged periods. Dry
any wet areas including the floor mats.
Have leaks repaired as soon as possi-
ble.
Use touch-up paint to repair small
scratches or minor finish damage. Areas
where metal is exposed will rust quickly
and MUST be repaired immediately by
touch-up or professional repainting.
Rust must be removed, the bare metal
primed and painted. Major body
damage should be repaired immediately
and new panels or exposed areas
should be undercoated with anti- corro-
sion material.
Repairs of this type are the owner’s
responsibility and are not covered under
warranty.
IB926
Drainage holes in doors
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230 Car careInspect the undercoating and touch up if
necessary. Pay particular attention to the
fenders and wheel housings, which are
exposed to abrasion by flying gravel, etc. If
the composition has worn or flaked off, the
steel must be thoroughly cleaned and dried
before a fresh coat is applied. The cleaning
is best done with a scraper and a steel wire
brush, followed by washing with solvent.
Apply the new coating thinly, otherwise it
may run off or fall off when dry.
Recovery and/or
recycling of automotive
materialsA typical car consists of metals (65–75%),
plastics (10–15%), rubber (5%) and small
quantities of glass, wood, paper and tex-
tiles.
Some of these materials can be recycled,
while others can be recovered in chemical
processes for reuse in new products or as a
source of energy.
While the Saab 9-3 was still at the draw-
ing-board stage, Saab engineers were
giving serious consideration to how the
maximum quantity of materials could be
reclaimed from the car on its eventual
scrapping. To facilitate sorting, plastic parts,
for instance, have been marked to identify
the precise nature of the plastic.Approximately 90% of the materials in the
car can be recycled or recovered, where
facilities exist.
Before the car is scrapped, all the oils and
other fluids that could pollute the environ-
ment should be recovered from the car. It
may be of interest in this context to learn that
the refrigerant used in the Saab 9-3’s A/C
and ACC systems (R134a) contains neither
CFCs nor any other chlorine compounds
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231 Car care
1 A-pillar trim: PC/ABS.
2 Windshield trim: PP, PP/EPDM.
3 Seals: EPDM.
4 Rear-window casing PUR.
5 Trim panel ABS.
6 C/D-pillar trim PP.
7 Rear light cluster: PMMA.
8 Corner filler panel PPO/PA.
9 Rear bumper
Expanded PP core
PP/EPDM sheathing.
10 Fuel tank PE.
11 Side-window casing:
PP/EPDM.
12 Side trim PVC.
13 A-pillar upholstery textile trim: polyester.
14 Rearview mirror: ABS.
15 Sill scuff plate: PP/EPDM.
16 Wheel-arch liner: PP.
17 Wheel cover: PA.
18 Direction-indicator lamp lens: PMMA.
19 Front spoiler: PP/EPDM.
20 Front bumper,
cellular core, expanded PP,
sheathing: PP/EPDM.
21 Fan shroud: PP.
22 Radiator grille: ABS.
23 Washer-fluid reservoir: PE.
24 Cowl trim: PC/ASA.
IB927
19 20 21 22 23 24 1 2 3 4
18 1716
15 14 13 12
11 7
10 98 6 5 ABS Acr ylonitrile-butadiene-styrene
ASA Acrylonitrile-styrene (acrylic plastic)
EPDM Ethylene-propylene rubber
PA Polyamide (plastic)
PC Polycarbonate (plastic)
PE Polyethylene
PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate
POM Acetal plastic
PPO Polyphenylene oxide (plastic)
PP Polypropylene
PUR Polyurethane
PVC Polyvinyl chloride
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241 Maintenance and owner assistance
(c.) Check wheel alignment if irregular or premature tire wear is apparent.
(d.) Check and clean rear pads and rear calipers in areas with heavy road salt use.
Service Intervals **
Miles = U.S. Cars
Kilometers = Canadian Cars
30 day
10,000
(16,000 km)
20,000
(32,000 km)
30,000
(48,000 km)
40,000
(64,000 km)
50,000
(80,000 km)
60,000
(96,000 km)
70,000
(112,000 km)
80,000
(128,000 km)
90,000
(144,000 km)
100,000
(160,000 km)
Service #
1234567891011
Chassis
R Ball joint clearance, outer and inner steering joints and
rubber boots""""""""""
R Shock absorbers and bushes; tightness and condition"""
R Tire pressure, tread depth and wear, including spare (c.)"""""""""""
R Rotate tires, front to rear""""""""""
R Brake pads and discs; wear and condition (d.)""""""""""
R Brake lines and hoses""""""""""
R Brake fluid level & renewal (max. 2-year intervals)"""" ! """ ! ""
R Check parking brake function"""""""""""
R Power steering fluid level"""""""""""
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