towing SATURN AURA 2010 User Guide

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 5-18.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{WARNING:
If the vehicle’s tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. The
vehicle can overheat, causing an engine
compartment fire or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 6-65.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or
stability system. Shift back and forth between
R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as
little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait
until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears.
Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and
reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could
free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out after
a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the
vehicle does need to be towed out, seeTowing Your
Vehicle on page 5-24.
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The Tire and Loading Information label also lists
the tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and
the recommended cold tire inflation pressures (D).
For more information on tires and inflation, see
Tires on page 6-44andInation - Tire Pressure on
page 6-51.
There is also important loading information on the
Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see
“Certification Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load
Limit
1.Locate the statement “The combined weight of
occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2.Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your
vehicle.
3.Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4.The resulting figure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity.
For example, if the “XXX” amount equals
1400 lbs and there will be five 150 lb
passengers in your vehicle, the amount of
available cargo and luggage load capacity is
650 lbs (1400−750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
5.Determine the combined weight of luggage
and cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That
weight may not safely exceed the available
cargo and luggage load capacity calculated in
Step 4.
6.If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load
from your trailer will be transferred to your
vehicle. Consult this manual to determine how
this reduces the available cargo and luggage
load capacity for your vehicle.
If your vehicle can tow a trailer, seeTowing a
Trailer on page 5-27for important information
on towing a trailer, towing safety rules, and
trailering tips.
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Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed
with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your
dealer/retailer or a professional towing service if the
disabled vehicle must be towed. SeeRoadside
Assistance Program on page 8-6.
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for
recreational purposes, such as behind a motorhome,
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing.
Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle
with two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a
device known as a dolly.Here are some important things to consider before
recreational vehicle towing:
•What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
•How far will the vehicle be towed? Some vehicles
have restrictions on how far and how long they
can tow.
•Does the vehicle have the proper towing
equipment? See your dealer/retailer or trailering
professional for additional advice and equipment
recommendations.
•Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing
the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is
prepared to be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a
Long Trip on page 5-14.
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Dinghy Towing
When dinghy towing, the vehicle should be run at the
beginning of each day and at each RV fuel stop
for about five minutes. This will ensure proper lubrication
of transmission components.
To dinghy tow the vehicle from the front with all four
wheels on the ground:
1. Position the vehicle to tow and then secure it to the
towing vehicle.
2. Shift the transmission to P (Park) and turn the
ignition to LOCK/OFF.3. Set the parking brake.
4. To prevent the battery from draining while
the vehicle is being towed, remove the
following fuse from the instrument panel fuse
block: (IGN SENSOR). SeeInstrument Panel
Fuse Block on page 6-97for more information.
5. Turn the ignition to ACC/ACCESSORY.
6. Shift the transmission to N (Neutral).
7. Release the parking brake.
Remember to reinstall the IGN SENSOR fuse once the
destination has been reached.
Notice:If 105 km/h (65 mph) is exceeded while
towing the vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 105 km/h (65 mph) while towing the vehicle.
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Notice:Towing the vehicle from the rear could
damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed
from the rear.
Dolly Towing
Tow the vehicle with the two rear wheels on the ground
and the front wheels on a dolly:
To tow the vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
a dolly:
1. Put the front wheels on a dolly.
2. Put the gear shift lever in P (Park).
3. Set the parking brake.
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4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Remove the key from the ignition.
6. Secure the vehicle to the dolly.
7. Release the parking brake.
Notice:Towing the vehicle from the rear could
damage it. Also, repairs would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty. Never have the vehicle towed
from the rear.Towing a Trailer
{WARNING:
The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if
the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is
not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is
too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or
even at all. The driver and passengers could be
seriously injured. The vehicle may also be
damaged; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only
if all the steps in this section have been followed.
Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with the vehicle.
Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly,
follow the advice in this section and see your
dealer/retailer for important information about
towing a trailer with the vehicle.
The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering
capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight
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of the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering
is different than just driving the vehicle by itself.
Trailering means changes in handling, acceleration,
braking, durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe
trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used
properly.
The following information has many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these
are important for the safety of the driver and the
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
pulling a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, axles, wheel assemblies and tires are
forced to work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively
higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra
heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind
resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
Pulling A Trailer
Here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
the rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
•Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 1,000 miles
(1600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
transmission or other parts could be damaged. The
repairs would not be covered by the vehicle’s
warranty.
•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a
trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps
the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted
speed for trailers, or no more than 55 mph
(90 km/h), to save wear on the vehicle’s parts.
•Do not tow a trailer when the outside temperature is
above 100°F (38°C).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•the weight of the trailer,
•the weight of the trailer tongue
•and the total weight on the vehicle’s tires.
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Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg). But
even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how
much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can depend on any special equipment on
the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle
can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or
advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices.
SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 8-5for
more information.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total gross weight
of the vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo
carried in it, and the people who will be riding in thevehicle. If there are a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in the vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight the vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight the vehicle can tow. If towing a
trailer, the tongue load must be added to the GVW
because the vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See
Loading the Vehicle on page 5-19for more information
about the vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
Using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A)
should weigh 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer
weight (B).
After loading the trailer, weigh the trailer and then the
tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper.
If they are not, adjustments might be made by moving
some items around in the trailer.
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Get to know the rig before setting out for the open
road. Get acquainted with the feel of handling and
braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now
longer and not as responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This checks the electrical
connection at the same time.
During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This
can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer.
Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much
farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to
the lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel flash whenever
signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps also flash, telling other drivers the vehicle
is turning, changing lanes or stopping.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument
panel flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. For this reason you may think other
drivers are seeing the signal when they are not. It is
important to check occasionally to be sure the
trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transmission temperatures
may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent
stops are very important to allow the engine and
transmission to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforestarting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is
not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the
vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If the engine does overheat, seeEngine
Overheating on page 6-28.
Parking on Hills
{WARNING:
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer
attached can be dangerous. If something goes
wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be
injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a
flat surface.
If parking the rig on a hill:
1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park)
yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill
or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.
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