lock SATURN L-SERIES 2005 Workshop Manual

The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.
Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control
systems — steering and braking — have to do their work
where the tires meet the road. Unless you have
four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can
demand too much of those places. You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you are steering through
a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those
two control systems — steering and acceleration — can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the
road and make you lose control. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 4-9.What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way
you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
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Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than
braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a
truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out
from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked
cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these
problems by braking — if you can stop in time. But
sometimes you cannot; there is not room. That is the time
for evasive action — steering around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply your brakes — but, unless you
have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels.
SeeBraking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as much
speed as you can from a possible collision. Then
steer around the problem, to the left or right depending
on the space available.An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you
can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without
removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer
quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
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Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver
has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying
to steer and constantly seek an escape route or
area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much
speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration,
or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow
on the road to make a mirrored surface — and
slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It
helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have
anti-lock, then in a braking skid, where the wheels are
no longer rolling, release enough pressure on the brakes
to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering
control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when
you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are
rolling, you will have steering control.
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Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You
will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can
be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle
has a traction control system, you will want to slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. Under
certain conditions, you may want to turn the traction
control system off, such as when driving through deep
snow and loose gravel, to help maintain vehicle
motion at lower speeds. SeeTraction Control System
(TCS) on page 4-9.
Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will
want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti-lock,
seeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. This
system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a
hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you have the
anti-lock braking system or not, you will want to begin
stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement.
Without anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to
slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal
down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so
hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide.
Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can
still steer.
•Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
•Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach:
around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
•Turn on your hazard flashers.
•Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
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•Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats — anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
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Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your vehicle
can carry. Two labels on your vehicle show how much
weight it may properly carry, the Tire and Loading
Information label and the Vehicle Certification label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either
the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information label is
attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With
the driver’s door open, you will find the label attached
below the door lock post (striker). The tire and
loading information label lists the number of occupant
seating positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity
weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.Label Example
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Dinghy Towing
You may dinghy tow your vehicle from the front following
these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Turn the ignition key to ACC to unlock
the steering wheel.3. Shift your transaxle to NEUTRAL (N).
4. Open the lid on the underhood fuse block and
remove the IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses.
Refer to the underside of the underhood fuse block
cover for specific fuse locations.
5. Close the lid on the underhood fuse block and store
the two fuses in a safe place.
6. Close the hood.
7. Release the parking brake.
Once you have reached your destination replace the
IGN 0/3/CR and IGN 1/2 fuses.
Notice:If you exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 65 mph (110 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
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Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you will need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
•The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
•Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the
hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into your
vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-25. Dirt and
water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to
tap into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you
do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain
them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Changing a Flat Tire.....................................5-62
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools................5-64
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing
the Spare Tire..........................................5-65
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools............5-71
Compact Spare Tire......................................5-72
Appearance Care............................................5-73
Fabric/Carpet...............................................5-73
Vinyl...........................................................5-75
Instrument Panel..........................................5-75
Interior Plastic Components............................5-75
Glass Surfaces.............................................5-75
Care of Safety Belts......................................5-75
Weatherstrips...............................................5-76
Washing Your Vehicle...................................5-76
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses.....................5-76
Finish Care..................................................5-76
Windshield and Wiper Blades.........................5-77
Aluminum Wheels.........................................5-78Tires...........................................................5-78
Sheet Metal Damage.....................................5-79
Finish Damage.............................................5-79
Underbody Maintenance................................5-79
Chemical Paint Spotting.................................5-80
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials..................5-80
Vehicle Identication......................................5-82
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).................5-82
Service Parts Identification Label.....................5-82
Electrical System............................................5-83
Add-On Electrical Equipment..........................5-83
Windshield Wiper Fuses................................5-83
Power Windows and Other Power Options.......5-83
Fuses and Circuit Breakers............................5-83
Floor Console Fuse Block..............................5-84
Engine Compartment Fuse Block....................5-86
Capacities and Specications..........................5-89
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
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