tow SATURN VUE HYBRID 2008 Owner's Guide

Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to
pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend on
any special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can
carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo must be subtracted
from the maximum trailer weight.
You can ask your dealer/retailer for trailering
information or advice.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce
the tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow.
And if you tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-22
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum
load capacity.
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Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do,
then be sure to seal the holes later when you remove
the hitch. If you do not seal them, deadly carbon
monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get into
your vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-29.
Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. And, never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Since your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak®, your
trailer brakes cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic
system.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the
trailer brakes, so you will be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that
the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when
you are towing a trailer. And, because you are a
good deal longer when towing a trailer, you will need
to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that
hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right,
move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly
and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with
the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged.
Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers.
Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring.
See your dealer/retailer if you need information.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other
drivers you are about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the
trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers
behind you are seeing your signal when they are
not. It is important to check occasionally to be sure
the trailer bulbs are still working.
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Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transmission temperatures
may result and damage your vehicle. Frequent
stops are very important to allow the engine and
transmission to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you
start down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not
shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If your engine does overheat, see
Engine Overheating on page 5-23.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with
a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P).
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from
the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels
into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the trailer
wheels.
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3. When the chocks are in place, release the regular
brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave
After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you
are pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance
on page 6-4for more information. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are automatic
transmission uid (do not overll), engine oil, axle
lubricant, drive belt, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you nd them quickly. If you are trailering,
it is a good idea to review this information before you
start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating
on page 5-23.
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
on page 5-18.
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap.Engine Oil on page 5-13.
C. Engine Coolant Surge Tank.Cooling System on
page 5-25.
D. Engine Coolant Surge Tank Protection Cap.Coolant
Surge Tank Pressure Cap on page 5-23.
E. Main Underhood Fuse Block. Contains Remote
Positive (+) Terminal (Under engine cover).
SeeJump Starting on page 5-34.
F. Battery.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
G. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir.Windshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-29.
H. Engine Oil Dipstick (out of view).Engine Oil on
page 5-13.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down and check the level.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. Try to minimize engine load. If you are in a traffic
jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the
highest gear possible while driving.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about ten minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull
over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for
three minutes while you are parked. If the warning
continues, turn off the engine and get everyone out of
the vehicle until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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Headlamps
To replace one of the headlamp bulbs, use the following
procedure. To replace the parking/turn signal lamp
bulb, seeFront Turn Signal and Parking Lamps
on page 5-43.
1. Open the hood. SeeHood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Remove the two screws from the top of the front
fascia and grille. They are inboard of the headlamp
assembly.
3. Remove the three screws retaining the headlamp
assembly.
4. Insert a at blade tool through the opening in the
top. Make sure the tool ts through the opening in
the headlamp bracket lower arm.
5. Push the locking tab toward the rear of the vehicle
with the tool to lift the headlamp bracket lower arm.
6. Pull back on the front fascia and then pull the
headlamp assembly out from the vehicle. Another
person might be needed to assist with this step.7. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb
assembly.
8. Turn the bulb assembly counterclockwise to remove
it from the housing.
9. Replace the old bulb with a new one.
10. Reverse Steps 1 through 8 to reinstall.
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Reset the Tire Pressure Monitor System. SeeTire
Pressure Monitor Operation on page 5-55.
Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly
tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel
could come off and cause a crash. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
When It Is Time for New Tires
Various factors, such as maintenance, temperatures,
driving speeds, vehicle loading, and road conditions
inuence when you need new tires.
One way to tell when it
is time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining.
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{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel
could come off and cause a crash. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or the
threads of the wheel nuts. If you do, the wheel
nuts might come loose and the wheel could
fall off, causing a crash.
{CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened
wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become
loose and even come off. This could lead to a
crash. Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts.
If you have to replace them, be sure to get new
Saturn original equipment wheel nuts.
Notice:Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specication.
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