checking oil YAMAHA WR 450F 2008 Owners Manual

CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1
GENERAL INFOR-
MATION
DESCRIPTION ................. 1-1
MACHINE
IDENTIFICATION ............. 1-2
INCLUDED PARTS .......... 1-2
IMPORTANT
INFORMATION................. 1-2
CHECKING OF CONNEC-
TION ................................. 1-3
SPECIAL TOOLS ............. 1-4
CONTROL FUNCTIONS .. 1-8
MULTI-FUNCTION
DISPLAY .......................... 1-9
STARTING AND
BREAK-IN ...................... 1-14
TORQUE-CHECK
POINTS........................... 1-16
CLEANING AND
STORAGE ...................... 1-17
CHAPTER 2
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL SPECIFICA-
TIONS ............................... 2-1
MAINTENANCE
SPECIFICATIONS ............ 2-4
TIGHTENING
TORQUES ...................... 2-13
LUBRICATION
DIAGRAMS .................... 2-19
CABLE ROUTING
DIAGRAM ....................... 2-21
CHAPTER 3
REGULAR INSPEC-
TION AND AD-
JUSTMENTS
MAINTENANCE
INTERVALS ...................... 3-1
PRE-OPERATION
INSPECTION AND
MAINTENANCE................ 3-5
ENGINE ............................ 3-6
CHASSIS ........................ 3-17
ELECTRICAL ................. 3-27
CHAPTER 4
TUNING
ENGINE ............................ 4-1
CHASSIS .......................... 4-5
CHAPTER 5
ENGINE
RADIATOR ....................... 5-1
CARBURETOR................. 5-4
AIR INDICTOIN
SYSTEM ......................... 5-13
CAMSHAFTS.................. 5-15
CYLINDER HEAD........... 5-20
VALVES AND VALVE
SPRINGS ........................ 5-23
CYLINDER AND
PISTON ........................... 5-27
CLUTCH ......................... 5-30
OIL FILTER ELEMENT
AND WATER PUMP ....... 5-34
BALANCER .................... 5-38
OIL PUMP ....................... 5-40
KICK SHAFT AND SHIFT
SHAFT ............................ 5-43
AC MAGNETO AND
STARTER CLUTCH ....... 5-48
ENGINE REMOVAL ....... 5-53CRANKCASE AND
CRANKSHAFT ...............5-57
TRANSMISSION, SHIFT
CAM AND SHIFT
FORK ..............................5-63
CHAPTER 6
CHASSIS
FRONT WHEEL AND
REAR WHEEL ..................6-1
FRONT BRAKE AND
REAR BRAKE ..................6-6
FRONT FORK .................6-16
HANDLEBAR..................6-23
STEERING ......................6-27
SWINGARM ....................6-31
REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER ....................6-36
CHAPTER 7
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL COMPO-
NENTS AND WIRING DIA-
GRAM ...............................7-1
IGNITION SYSTEM...........7-3
ELECTRIC STARTING
SYSTEM............................7-5
CHARGING SYSTEM .....7-13
THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR SYSTEM .........7-15
LIGHTING SYSTEM .......7-18
SIGNALING SYSTEM.....7-20

1-3
CHECKING OF CONNECTION
ALL REPLACEMENT PARTS
1. We recommend to use Yamaha
genuine parts for all replace-
ments. Use oil and/or grease rec-
ommended by Yamaha for
assembly and adjustment.
GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-
RINGS
1. All gaskets, oil seals, and O-rings
should be replaced when an en-
gine is overhauled. All gasket sur-
faces, oil seal lips, and O-rings
must be cleaned.
2. Properly oil all mating parts and
bearings during reassembly. Ap-
ply grease to the oil seal lips.
LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND
COTTER PINS
1. All lock washers/plates "1" and
cotter pins must be replaced
when they are removed. Lock
tab(s) should be bent along the
bolt or nut flat(s) after the bolt or
nut has been properly tightened.
BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS
1. Install the bearing(s) "1" and oil
seal(s) "2" with their manufactur-
er's marks or numbers facing out-
ward. (In other words, the
stamped letters must be on the
side exposed to view.) When in-
stalling oil seal(s), apply a light
coating of lightweight lithium base
grease to the seal lip(s). Oil the
bearings liberally when installing.
Do not use compressed air to spin
the bearings dry. This causes dam-
age to the bearing surfaces.
CIRCLIPS
1. All circlips should be inspected
carefully before reassembly. Al-
ways replace piston pin clips after
one use. Replace distorted cir-
clips. When installing a circlip "1",
make sure that the sharp-edged
corner "2" is positioned opposite
to the thrust "3" it receives. See
the sectional view.
CHECKING OF
CONNECTION
Dealing with stains, rust, moisture,
etc. on the connector.
1. Disconnect:
• Connector
2. Dry each terminal with an air
blower.
3. Connect and disconnect the con-
nector two or three times.
4. Pull the lead to check that it will
not come off.
5. If the terminal comes off, bend up
the pin "1" and reinsert the termi-
nal into the connector.
6. Connect:
• Connector
The two connectors "click" together.
7. Check for continuity with a tester.
• If there in no continuity, clean the
terminals.
• Be sure to perform the steps 1 to 7
listed above when checking the
wire harness.
• For a field remedy, use a contact re-
vitalizer available on the market.
• Use the tester on the connector as
shown.

1-5
SPECIAL TOOLS
Damper rod holder
YM-01494, 90890-01494Use this tool to remove and install
the damper rod.
Fork seal driver
YM-A0948, 90890-01502 This tool is used when install the fork
oil seal.
Sheave holder
YS-1880-A, 90890-01701This tool is used for when loosening
or tightening the flywheel magneto
securing nut.
Pocket tester
YU-3112-C, 90890-03112 Use this tool to inspect the coil resis-
tance, output voltage and amper-
age.
Timing light
YM-33277-A, 90890-03141 This tool is necessary for checking
ignition timing.
Valve spring compressor
YM-4019, 90890-04019 This tool is needed to remove and
install the valve assemblies. Tool name/Part number How to use Illustration

3-9
ENGINE
CHECKING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:
• Gasket "1"
Damage→Replace.
INSTALLING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Install:
• Gasket
• Exhaust pipe "1"
• Nut (exhaust pipe) "2"
• Bolt (exhaust pipe) "3"
First, temporarily tighten the nut (ex-
haust pipe), then tighten the bolt (ex-
haust pipe) 13 Nm (1.3 m•kg, 9.4
ft•lb). After that, retighten the nut (ex-
haust pipe) 20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14 ft•lb)
and then the bolt (exhaust pipe) 20
Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14 ft•lb).
2. Install:
• Silencer clamp "1"
• Gasket "2"
• Silencer
• Washer "4"
• Bolt (silencer) "5"CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level
place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove:
• Radiator cap
3. Check:
• Coolant level "a"
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
1. Radiator
CHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Seat
• Left side cover
3. Remove the catch tank hose from
the catch tank and drain the tank
of its coolant.
4. Remove:
• Coolant drain bolt "1"
5. Remove:
• Radiator cap
Drain the coolant completely.
6. Clean:
• Cooling system
Thoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
7. Install:
• Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
8. Fill:
•Radiator
• Engine
To specified level.
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im-
purities or oil.
Nut (exhaust pipe):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Bolt (exhaust pipe):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Silencer clamp:
16 Nm (1.6 m•kg, 11
ft•lb)
Bolt (silencer):
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant:
High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti-corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio:
50%/50%
Coolant capacity:
1.0 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06
US qt)

3-12
ENGINE
5. Inspect:
• Air filter element
Damage→Replace.
6. Apply:
• Foam-air-filter oil or equivalent oil
to the element
• Squeeze out the excess oil. Ele-
ment should be wet but not drip-
ping.
• Wipe off the oil left on the element
surface using a clean dry cloth. (Ex-
cess oil in the element may ad-
versely affect engine starting.)
7. Install:
• Air filter guide "1"
• Align the projection "a" on filter
guide with the hole "b" in air filter el-
ement.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the matching surface "c" on air
filter element.
8. Install:
• Air filter element "1"
Align the projection "a" on filter guide
with the hole "b" in air filter case.
9. Hook:
•Binder "1"
Hook the binder "1" so that it contacts
the filter guide projections "a".
CHECKING THE ENGINE OIL
LEVEL
1. Stand the machine on a level sur-
face.
• When checking the oil level make
sure that the machine is upright.
• Place the machine on a suitable
stand.
Never remove the oil tank cap just
after high speed operation. The
heated oil could spurt out. causing
danger. Wait until the oil cools
down to approximately 70°C
(158°F).
2. Idle the engine more than 3 min-
utes while keeping the machine
upright. Then stop the engine and
inspect the oil level.
3. Remove:
• Oil tank cap 1
4. Inspect:
• Oil level
Check that the engine oil is above
the level mark "a" and that the oil
does not come out when the
check bolt "1" is removed.
Below the level mark "a"→Add oil
through the filler cap hole until it is
above the level mark "a".
Oil comes out at the check bolt→
Drain the oil until it stops coming
out.
When inspecting the oil level, do not
screw the oil level gauge into the oil
tank. Insert the gauge lightly.
(For CDN)
• Do not add any chemical addi-
tives. Engine oil also lubricates
the clutch and additives could
cause clutch slippage.
• Do not allow foreign material to
enter the crankcase.
(Except for CDN)
Recommended oil:
Yamalube 4,
SAE10W30 or
SAE20W40
Yamalube 4-R,
SAE10W50
API service SG type or
higher, JASO standard
MA
Recommended oil:
SAE10W30,
SAE10W40,
SAE15W40, SAE20W40
or SAE20W50
API service SG type or
higher, JASO standard
MA

3-13
ENGINE
• Do not add any chemical addi-
tives or use oils with a grade of
CD "a" or higher.
• Do not use oils labeled "ENERGY
CONSERVING II" "b" or higher.
Engine oil also lubricates the
clutch and additives could cause
clutch slippage.
• Do not allow foreign material to
enter the crankcase.
5. Start the engine and let it warm up
for several minutes.
When the oil tank is empty, never
start the engine.
6. Idle the engine more than 10 sec-
onds while keeping the machine
upright. Then stop the engine and
add the oil to the maximum level.
7. Install:
• Oil tank cap
CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL
1. Start the engine and let it warm up
for several minutes.
2. Stop the engine and place an oil
pan under the drain bolt.
3. Remove:
• Engine guard "1"
• Oil tank plug "2"
• Oil filler cap "3"
• Drain bolt (with gasket) "4"
• Oil filter drain bolt (O-ring) "5"
• Drain bolt (with gasket) "6"
Drain the crankcase and oil tank
of its oil.4. If the oil filter is to be replaced dur-
ing this oil change, remove the fol-
lowing parts and reinstall them.
Replacement steps:
a. Remove the oil filter element cov-
er "1" and oil filter element "2".
b. Check the O-rings "3", if cracked
or damaged, replace them with a
new one.
c. Install the oil filter element and oil
filter element cover.
5. Install:
• Gaskets
• Oil filter drain bolt
• Drain bolt (right crankcase)
• Drain bolt (left crankcase)
6. Fill:
• Engine oil7. Install:
• Oil filler cap "1"
8. Inspect:
• Engine (for oil leaks)
• Oil level
Refer to "CHECKING THE EN-
GINE OIL LEVEL".
CHECKING THE OIL PRESSURE
1. Check:
• Oil pressure
Checking steps:
a. Slightly loosen the oil pressure
check bolt "1".
b. Start the engine and keep it idling
until oil starts to seep from the oil
pressure check bolt. If no oil
comes out after one minute, turn
the engine off so it will not seize.
c. Check oil passages and oil pump
for damage or leakage.
d. Start the engine after solving the
problem(s) and recheck the oil
pressure.
e. Tighten the oil pressure check
bolt.
Oil filter element cover:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Oil filter drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Drain bolt (right crank-
case):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Drain bolt (left crank-
case):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Oil quantity:
Periodic oil change:
0.95 L (0.84 Imp qt,
1.00 US qt)
With oil filter replace-
ment:
1.0 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06
US qt)
Total amount:
1.2 L (1.06 Imp qt, 1.27
US qt)
Oil pressure check bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

3-14
ENGINE
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW
1. Adjust:
• Pilot screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
To optimize the fuel flow at a smaller
throttle opening, each machine's pilot
screw has been individually set at the
factory. Before adjusting the pilot
screw, turn it in fully and count the
number of turns. Record this number
as the factory-set number of turns
out.
a. Turn in the pilot screw until it is
lightly seated.
b. Turn out the pilot screw by the
factory-set number of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Turn the throttle stop screw "1"
until the specified engine idling
speed.
Using a digital engine tachometer for
idle speed adjustment, detect the en-
gine idling speed by bringing the
sensing element "c" of the engine ta-
chometer close to the ignition coil "2".
ADJUSTING THE VALVE
CLEARANCE
• The valve clearance should be ad-
justed when the engine is cool to
the touch.
• The piston must be at Top Dead
Center (T.D.C.) on compression
stroke to check or adjust the valve
clearance.
1. Remove:
•Seat
•Fuel tank
Refer to "REMOVING THE SEAT,
FUEL TANK AND SIDE COV-
ERS" section.
2. Remove:
• Air cut-off valve assembly
Refer to "AIR INDUCTION SYS-
TEM" section in the CHAPTER 5.
• Spark plug
• Engine upper bracket
• Cylinder head cover
Refer to "CAMSHAFTS" section
in the CHAPTER 5.
3. Remove:
• Timing mark accessing screw "1"
• Crankshaft end accessing screw
"2"
• O-ring4. Check:
• Valve clearance
Out of specification→Adjust.
Checking steps:
a. Turn the crankshaft counterclock-
wise with a wrench.
b. Align the T.D.C. mark "a" on the
rotor with the align mark "b" on the
crankcase cover when piston is at
T.D.C. on compression stroke.
In order to be sure that the piston is at
Top Dead Center, the punch mark "c"
on the exhaust camshaft and the
punch mark "d" on the intake cam-
shaft must align with the cylinder
head surface, as shown in the illustra-
tion.
c. Measure the valve clearance "e"
using a feeler gauge "1".
Record the measured reading if the
clearance is incorrect.
Pilot screw (example):
2 turns out
(For EUROPE)
To increase idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "1" in "a".
To decrease idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "1" out "b".
Engine idling speed:
1,750–1,950 r/min
Valve clearance (cold):
Intake valve:
0.10–0.15 mm
(0.0039–0.0059 in)
Exhaust valve:
0.20–0.25 mm
(0.0079–0.0098 in)

3-20
CHASSIS
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section.
4. Check:
• Brake pedal operation
A softy or spongy feeling→Bleed
brake system.
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion.
CHECKING THE REAR BRAKE
PAD INSULATOR
1. Remove:
• Brake pad
Refer to "CHECKING AND RE-
PLACING THE REAR BRAKE
PADS" section.
2. Inspect:
• Rear brake pad insulator "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
1. Place the brake master cylinder
so that its top is in a horizontal po-
sition.
2. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
• Use only designated quality
brake fluid to avoid poor brake
performance.
• Refill with same type and brand
of brake fluid; mixing fluids
could result in poor brake perfor-
mance.
• Be sure that water or other con-
taminants do not enter master
cylinder when refilling.
• Clean up spilled fluid immediate-
ly to avoid erosion of painted
surfaces or plastic parts.
a. Lower level
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE SPROCKET
1. Inspect:
• Sprocket teeth "a"
Excessive wear→Replace.
Replace the drive sprocket, rear
wheel sprocket and drive chain as a
set.
CHECKING THE DRIVE CHAIN
1. Measure:
• Drive chain length (15 links) "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
• While measuring the drive chain
length, push down on the drive
chain to increase its tension.
• Measure the length between drive
chain roller "1" and "16" as shown.
• Perform this measurement at two or
three different places.
2. Remove:
• Drive chain "1"
Remove the drive chain using a drive
chain cutter "2".
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Brush off as much dirt as possi-
ble. Then clean the drive chain
using the chain cleaner.
This machine has a drive chain
with small rubber O-rings "1" be-
tween the side plates. Steam
cleaning, high-pressure washes,
certain solvent and kerosene can
damage these O-rings.
4. Inspect:
• O-ring "1" (drive chain)
Damage→Replace the drive
chain.
•Roller "2"
• Side plate "3"
Damage/wear→Replace the
drive chain.
5. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff→Replace the drive chain.
6. Install:
• Chain joint "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Drive chain "3"
• Link plate "4" Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4
Drive chain length (15
links):
: 239.3 mm
(9.42 in)

3-21
CHASSIS
When installing the drive chain, apply
the lithium soap base grease on the
chain joint and O-rings.
7. Install:
• Link plate
• Press the link plate onto the chain
joint using a drive chain riveter "5".
• Rivet the end of the chain joint us-
ing a drive chain riveter.
• After riveting the chain joint, make
sure its movement is smooth.
8. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".
c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.)
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
Too small drive chain slack will
overload the engine and other vital
parts; keep the slack within the
specified limits.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage→
Repair or replace.
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-30 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

3-22
CHASSIS
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screw
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Remove:
• Rubber cap
2. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
3. Install:
• Rubber capCHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Rear frame
3. Loosen:
• Locknut "1"
4. Adjust:
• Spring preload
By turning the adjuster "2".
• Be sure to remove all dirt and mud
from around the locknut and adjust-
er before adjustment.
• The length of the spring (installed)
changes 1.5 mm (0.06 in) per turn
of the adjuster.
Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
8 clicks out
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
9 clicks out
Stiffer →Increase the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2" in.)
Softer→Decrease the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2"
out.)
Spring length (installed)
"a":
Standard
lengthExtent of ad-
justment
252.5 mm (9.94
in)
* 251.5 mm
(9.90 in)238.5–258.5
mm (9.39–10.18
in)
* For EUROPE