check engine YAMAHA YZ125LC 2012 User Guide

3-9
CHASSIS
c. Inspect the gasket (oil check bolt),
replace if damaged.
d. Tighten the oil check bolt.
CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION
OIL
1. Start the engine and warm it up
for several minutes and wait for
five minute.
2. Place the machine on a level
place and hold it on upright posi-
tion by placing the suitable stand
under the engine.
3. Place a suitable container under
the engine.
4. Remove:
• Oil drain bolt "1"
• Oil filler cap "2"
Drain the transmission oil.
5. Install:
• Aluminum washer
• Oil drain bolt "1"6. Fill:
• Transmission oil
7. Check:
• Oil leakage
8. Check:
• Transmission oil level
9. Install:
• Oil filler cap "2"
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW
1. Adjust:
• Pilot air screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
a. Screw in the pilot air screw until it
is lightly seated.
b. Back out by the specified number
of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Turn the throttle stop screw "2"
until the engine runs at the lowest
possible speed.
c. Tighten the locknut.
CHECKING THE EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage→Replace.
Install the O-rings with their de-
pressed "a" facing outward.
CHASSIS
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE SYSTEM
Bleed the brake system if:
• The system has been disassem-
bled.
• A brake hose has been loosened
or removed.
• The brake fluid is very low.
• The brake operation is faulty.
A dangerous loss of braking per-
formance may occur if the brake
system is not properly bled.
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap
• Diaphragm
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Protector (rear brake)
2. Bleed:
• Brake fluid
Air bleeding steps:
a. Add proper brake fluid to the res-
ervoir.
b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful
not to spill any fluid or allow the
reservoir to overflow.
c. Connect the clear plastic tube "2"
tightly to the caliper bleed screw
"1". Oil check bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Oil drain bolt:
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Recommended brand:
YAMALUBE
Recommended engine
oil type
SAE10W-40
Recommended engine
oil grade
API service SG type or
higher
JASO standard MA
Oil capacity (periodic oil
change):
0.66 L (0.58 Imp qt, 0.69
US qt)
Pilot air screw:
2-1/4 turns out
To increase idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" in.
To decrease idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" out.

3-13
CHASSIS
2. Remove:
• Master link clip
•Joint "1"
• Drive chain "2"
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Place it in kerosene, and brush off
as much dirt as possible. Then re-
move the drive chain from the ker-
osene and dry the drive chain.
4. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff→Replace the drive chain.
5. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
•Joint "2"
• Master link clip "3"
Be sure to install the master link
clip to the direction as shown.
a. Turning direction6. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.) NOTICE: Im-
proper drive chain slack will
overload the engine as well as
other vital parts of the motorcy-
cle and can lead to chain slip-
page or breakage. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the
drive chain slack within the
specified limits.
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage→
Repair or replace.
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

3-14
CHASSIS
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screwADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Rear frame Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
14 clicks out
* 13 clicks out
* For EUROPE
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
13 clicks out
* 12 clicks out
* For EUROPE

3-17
CHASSIS
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE
STEERING HEAD
1. Place a stand under the engine to
raise the front wheel off the
ground. WARNING! Securely
support the vehicle so that
there is no danger of it falling
over.
2. Check:
• Steering stem
Grasp the bottom of the forks and
gently rock the fork assembly
back and forth.
Free play→Adjust steering head.
3. Check:
• Steering smooth action
Turn the handlebar lock to lock.
Unsmooth action→Adjust steer-
ing ring nut.
4. Adjust:
• Steering ring nut
Steering ring nut adjustment
steps:
a. Remove the number plate.
b. Remove the handlebar and upper
bracket.
c. Loosen the steering ring nut "1"
using the steering nut wrench "2".
d. Tighten the steering ring nut "3"
using steering nut wrench "4".
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the thread of the steering stem.
• Set the torque wrench to the steer-
ing nut wrench so that they form a
right angle.
e. Loosen the steering ring nut one
turn.
f. Retighten the steering ring nut us-
ing the steering nut wrench.
Avoid over-tightening.
g. Check the steering stem by turn-
ing it lock to lock. If there is any
binding, remove the steering stem
assembly and inspect the steer-
ing bearings.
h. Install the washer "5", upper
bracket "6", washer "7", steering
stem nut "8", handlebar "9", han-
dlebar upper holder "10" and
number plate "11".
• The handlebar upper holder should
be installed with the punched mark
"a" forward.
• Install the handlebar so that the
marks "b" are in place on both
sides.
• Install the handlebar so that the pro-
jection "c" of the handlebar upper
holder is positioned at the mark on
the handlebar as shown.
• Insert the end of the fuel breather
hose "12" into the hole in the steer-
ing stem.
First tighten the bolts on the front
side of the handlebar upper holder,
and then tighten the bolts on the
rear side.
Steering nut wrench:
YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering nut wrench:
YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering ring nut (initial
tightening):
38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27
ft•lb)
Steering ring nut (final
tightening):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)Steering stem nut:
145 Nm (14.5 m•kg, 105
ft•lb)
Handlebar upper holder:
28 Nm (2.8 m•kg, 20
ft•lb)
Pinch bolt (upper brack-
et):
21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15
ft•lb)
Number plate:
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

3-19
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL
CHECKING THE SPARK PLUG
1. Remove:
• Spark plug
2. Inspect:
• Electrode "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
• Insulator color "2"
Normal condition is a medium to
light tan color.
Distinctly different color→Check
the engine condition.
When the engine runs for many hours
at low speeds, the spark plug insula-
tor will become sooty, even if the en-
gine and carburetor are in good
operating condition.
3. Measure:
• Plug gap "a"
Use a wire gauge or thickness
gauge.
Out of specification→Regap.
4. Clean the plug with a spark plug
cleaner if necessary.
5. Tighten:
• Spark plug
• Before installing a spark plug, clean
the gasket surface and plug sur-
face.
• Finger-tighten "a" the spark plug
before torquing to specification "b".
CHECKING THE IGNITION TIMING
1. Remove:
•Fuel tank
Refer to "SEAT, FUEL TANK
AND SIDE COVERS" section in
the CHAPTER 4.
• Spark plug
• Crankcase cover (left)
2. Attach:
• Dial gauge "1"
• Spark plug hole dial stand "2"
3. Rotate the magneto rotor "1" until
the piston reaches top dead cen-
ter (TDC). When this happens,
the needle on the dial gauge will
stop and reverse directions even
though the rotor is being turned in
the same direction.
4. Set the dial gauge to zero at TDC.
5. From TDC, rotate the rotor clock-
wise until the dial gauge indicates
that the piston is at a specified
distance from TDC.
6. Check:
• Ignition timing
Punch mark "a" on rotor should be
aligned with punch mark "b" on
stator.
Not aligned→Adjust.7. Adjust:
• Ignition timing
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the screws (stator) "1".
b. Align the punch mark on the rotor
with punch mark on the stator "2"
by moving the stator.
c. Tighten the screws (stator).
Spark plug gap:
0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–
0.028 in)
Standard spark plug:
BR9EVX/NGK (resistance type)
Spark plug:
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Dial gauge:
YU-3097/90890-01252
Spark plug hole dial
stand:
YU-1256
Ignition timing (B.T.D.C.):
0.48 mm (0.019 in)
Screw (stator):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

4-6
RADIATOR
HANDLING NOTE
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine and radiator are
hot. Scalding hot fluid and steam
may be blown out under pressure,
which could cause serious injury.
When the engine has cooled, open
the radiator cap by the following
procedure:
Place a thick rag, like a towel, over
the radiator cap, slowly rotate the
cap counterclockwise to the de-
tent. This procedure allows any re-
sidual pressure to escape. When
the hissing sound has stopped,
press down on the cap while turn-
ing counterclockwise and remove
it.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR
1. Inspect:
• Radiator core "1"
Obstruction→Blow out with com-
pressed air through rear of the ra-
diator.
Bent fin→Repair/replace.
INSTALLING THE RADIATOR
1. Install:
• Radiator breather hose "1"
• Radiator hose 3 "2"
• Radiator hose 1 "3"
To right radiator "4".
Clamp the radiator hose in the direc-
tion as shown.
2. Install:
• Right radiator "1"
• Washer "2"
• Bolt (right radiator) "3"
• Radiator hose 4 "4"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
3. Install:
• Left radiator "1"
• Washer "2"
• Bolt (left radiator) "3"
• Radiator hose 2 "4"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
4. Tighten:
• Radiator hose clamp 1, 3 "5"
5. Install:
• Radiator guard "1"
• Bolt (radiator guard) "2"
Fit the hook "a" on the inner side first
into the radiator.
Radiator hose 3:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 1:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (right radiator):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 4:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (left radiator):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 2:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose clamp 1, 3:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (radiator guard):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

4-17
CYLINDER HEAD, CYLINDER AND PISTON
• Install the spring to the link lever,
and then to the cylinder.
• Install the spring with its stopper
portion "a" facing inward.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
3. Install:
• Thrust plate "1"
• Screw (thrust plate) "2"
4. Check:
• Power valve smooth movement
Unsmooth movement→Repair or
replace.
5. Install:
• Gasket (power valve cover) "1"
• Power valve cover "2"
• Screw (power valve cover) "3"
• YPVS breather hose "4"
• Install the power valve cover so that
the arrow mark "a" faces upward.
• Install the clamp of the YPVS
breather hose with its opening por-
tion "b" facing backward.
INSTALLING THE PISTON RING
AND PISTON
1. Install:
• Piston ring "1"
• Take care not to scratch the piston
or damage the piston ring.
• Align the piston ring gap with the pin
"2".
• After installing the piston ring,
check the smooth movement of it.
2. Install:
• Gasket (cylinder) "1"
• Small end bearing "2"
• Dowel pin "3"
• Apply the engine oil onto the bear-
ing (crankshaft and connecting rod)
and connecting rod big end wash-
ers.
• Install the gasket with the seal print
side toward the crankcase.
3. Install:
•Piston "1"
• Piston pin "2"
• Piston pin clip "3"
• The arrow "a" on the piston dome
must point to exhaust side.• Before installing the piston pin clip,
cover the crankcase with a clean
rag to prevent the piston pin clip
from falling into the crankcase cavi-
ty.
• When installing the piston pin
clip, use the hand so that it may
not be distorted.
• Do not allow the clip open ends
to meet the piston pin slot "b".
INSTALLING THE CYLINDER
HEAD AND CYLINDER
1. Apply:
• Engine oil
To piston "1", piston ring "2" and
cylinder surface.
2. Install:
• Cylinder "1"
Make sure the piston ring is prop-
erly positioned. Install the cylinder
with one hand while compressing
the piston ring with the other hand.
After installing, check the smooth
movement of the piston.
Screw (thrust plate):
4 Nm (0.4 m•kg, 2.9
ft•lb)
Screw (power valve cov-
er):
5 Nm (0.5 m•kg, 3.6
ft•lb)

4-41
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
REMOVING THE SEGMENT
1. Remove:
• Bolt (segment) "1"
• Segment "2"
Turn the segment counterclockwise
until it stops and loosen the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when removing the bolt.
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Remove:
• Crankcase (right) "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
• Make appropriate bolts "3" as
shown available by yourself and at-
tach the tool with them.
• Fully tighten the tool holding bolts,
but make sure the tool body is par-
allel with the case. If necessary,
one screw may be backed out
slightly to level tool body.
• As pressure is applied, alternately
tap on the engine mounting boss
and transmission shafts.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If one
end "hangs up", take pressure off
the push screw, realign, and start
over. If the cases do not separate,
check for a remaining case bolt or
fitting. Do not force.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Make appropriate bolts "3" as shown
available by yourself and attach the
tool with them.
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner race
as shown in "A".
• If the bearing is removed together
with the crankshaft, remove the
bearing using a general bearing
puller "2" as shown in "B".
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge. Flywheel puller:
YU-1362-A/90890-
01362
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252

4-43
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease
to the surface "a" where the crank-
shaft and bearing come in contact.
• Use two plain washers (Yamaha
genuine: 90201-243K3) "5" or the
ones of a size as shown one on the
other. (Except for USA and CDN)
• Install so that the plain washers do
not deviate from the crankshaft cen-
ter. (Except for USA and CDN)
• When installing the crankcase, the
connecting rod should be posi-
tioned at TDC (top dead center).
• Install while checking that the dowel
pin is in place.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
6. Install:
• Clamp "1"
• Bolt (crankcase) "2"
Tighten the crankcase tightening
bolts in stage, using a crisscross pat-
tern.
7. Install:
• Holder "1"
• Bolt (holder) "2"
8. Install:
• Segment "1"
• Bolt (segment) "2"
• When installing the segment onto
the shift cam "3", align the punch
mark "a" with the dowel pin "b".
• Turn the segment clockwise until it
stops and tighten the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when tightening the bolt.
9. Remove:
• Sealant
Forced out on the cylinder mating
surface.
10. Apply:
• Engine oil
To the crank pin, bearing, oil de-
livery hole and connecting rod big
end washer.11. Check:
• Crankshaft and transmission op-
eration.
Unsmooth operation→Repair.
If the crankshaft will not turn smooth-
ly, make an adjustment by gently tap-
ping its right end with a soft hammer.
Bolt (crankcase):
14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
(1.771.97 in)
(0.98
1.50 in)
(0.16
0.20 in)
Bolt (holder):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (segment):
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)

5-28
HANDLEBAR
After tightening the bolts, check
that the throttle grip "2" moves
smoothly. If it does not, retighten
the bolts for adjustment.
13. Install:
• Engine stop switch "1"
• Clutch lever holder "2"
• Bolt (clutch lever holder) "3"
• Clamp "4"
• The engine stop switch, clutch lever
holder and clamp should be in-
stalled according to the dimensions
shown.
• Pass the engine stop switch lead in
the middle of the clutch lever hold-
er.
14. Install:
• Clutch cable "1"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the clutch cable end.
15. Adjust:
• Clutch lever free play
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE
CLUTCH CABLE FREE PLAY"
section in the CHAPTER 3.
Bolt (clutch lever holder):
4 Nm (0.4 m•kg, 2.9
ft•lb)
(0.55 in)