wheel YAMAHA YZ125LC 2012 User Guide

3-4
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
TIRE, WHEELS
Inspect air pressure, wheel
run-out, tire wear and
spoke looseness●●
Retighten sprocket bolt●●
Inspect bearings●
Replace bearings●
Lubricate●Lithium base grease
THROTTLE, CONTROL CA-
BLE
Check routing and connec-
tion●●
Lubricate●●Yamaha cable lube or SAE
10W-40 motor oil ItemAfter
break-in
Every
race
(about
2.5
hours)Every
third
(about
7.5
hours)Every
fifth
(about
12.5
hours)
As re-
quiredRemarks

3-5
PRE-OPERATION INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
PRE-OPERATION INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
Before riding for break-in operation, practice or a race, make sure the machine is in good operating condition.
Before using this machine, check the following points.
GENERAL INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
Item Routine Page
CoolantCheck that coolant is filled up to the radiator cap. Check the cool-
ing system for leakage.P. 3-6 – 7
FuelCheck that a fresh mixture of oil and gasoline is filled in the fuel
tank. Check the fuel line for leakage.P. 1-12
Transmission oilCheck that the oil level is correct. Check the crankcase for leak-
age.P. 3-8 – 9
Gear shifter and clutchCheck that gears can be shifted correctly in order and that the
clutch operates smoothly.P. 3-7
Throttle grip/HousingCheck that the throttle grip operation and free play are correctly
adjusted. Lubricate the throttle grip and housing, if necessary.P. 3-7 – 8
Brakes Check the play of front brake and effect of front and rear brake. P. 3-9 – 12
Drive chainCheck drive chain slack and alignment. Check that the drive chain
is lubricated properly.P. 3-12 – 13
WheelsCheck for excessive wear and tire pressure. Check for loose
spokes and have no excessive play.P. 3-16
SteeringCheck that the handlebar can be turned smoothly and have no ex-
cessive play.P. 3-17
Front forks and rear shock
absorberCheck that they operate smoothly and there is no oil leakage.
P. 3-13 – 16
Cables (wires)Check that the clutch and throttle cables move smoothly. Check
that they are not caught when the handlebars are turned or when
the front forks travel up and down.—
Muffler Check that the muffler is tightly mounted and has no cracks. P. 4-3 – 4
Rear wheel sprocket Check that the rear wheel sprocket tightening bolt is not loose. P. 3-12
Lubrication Check for smooth operation. Lubricate if necessary. P. 3-18
Bolts and nuts Check the chassis and engine for loose bolts and nuts. P. 1-13
Lead connectorsCheck that the CDI magneto, CDI unit, and ignition coil are con-
nected tightly.P. 1-7
SettingsIs the machine set suitably for the condition of the racing course
and weather or by taking into account the results of test runs be-
fore racing? Are inspection and maintenance completely done?P. 7-1 – 11

3-11
CHASSIS
2. Replace:
• Brake pad
Brake pad replacement steps:
a. Remove the pad pin plug "1".
b. Loosen the pad pin "2".
c. Remove the brake caliper "3"
from the front fork.
d. Remove the pad pin and brake
pads "4".
e. Connect the transparent hose "5"
to the bleed screw "6" and place
the suitable container under its
end.
f. Loosen the bleed screw and push
the brake caliper piston in.
Do not reuse the drained brake flu-
id.
g. Tighten the bleed screw.
h. Install the brake pads "7" and pad
pin.
• Install the brake pads with their pro-
jections "a" into the brake caliper re-
cesses "b".
• Temporarily tighten the pad pin at
this point.
i. Install the brake caliper "8" and
tighten the pad pin "9".
j. Install the pad pin plug "10".
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section.
4. Check:
• Brake lever operation
A softy or spongy feeling→Bleed
brake system.
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion.CHECKING AND REPLACING THE
REAR BRAKE PADS
1. Inspect:
• Brake pad thickness "a"
Out of specification→Replace as
a set.
2. Replace:
• Brake pad
Brake pad replacement steps:
a. Remove the protector "1" and pad
pin plug "2".
b. Loosen the pad pin "3".
c. Remove the rear wheel "4" and
brake caliper "5".
Refer to "FRONT WHEEL AND
REAR WHEEL" section in the
CHAPTER 5.
d. Remove the pad pin "6" and brake
pads "7".
Bleed screw:
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake caliper):
28 Nm (2.8 m•kg, 20
ft•lb)
Pad pin:
18 Nm (1.8 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Pad pin plug:
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Brake pad thickness:
6.4 mm (0.25 in)
: 1.0 mm (0.04
in)

3-12
CHASSIS
e. Connect the transparent hose "8"
to the bleed screw "9" and place
the suitable container under its
end.
f. Loosen the bleed screw and push
the brake caliper piston in.
Do not reuse the drained brake flu-
id.
g. Tighten the bleed screw.
h. Install the brake pad "10" and pad
pin "11".
• Install the brake pads with their pro-
jections "a" into the brake caliper re-
cesses "b".
• Temporarily tighten the pad pin at
this point.
i. Install the brake caliper "12" and
rear wheel "13".
Refer to "FRONT WHEEL AND
REAR WHEEL" section in the
CHAPTER 5.
j. Tighten the pad pin "14".k. Install the pad pin plug "15" and
protector "16".
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section.
4. Check:
• Brake pedal operation
A softy or spongy feeling→Bleed
brake system.
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion.
CHECKING THE REAR BRAKE
PAD INSULATOR
1. Remove:
•Brake pad
Refer to "CHECKING AND RE-
PLACING THE REAR BRAKE
PADS" section.
2. Inspect:
• Rear brake pad insulator "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
1. Place the brake master cylinder
so that its top is in a horizontal po-
sition.
2. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
• Use only designated quality
brake fluid to avoid poor brake
performance.
• Refill with same type and brand
of brake fluid; mixing fluids
could result in poor brake perfor-
mance.
• Be sure that water or other con-
taminants do not enter master
cylinder when refilling.
• Clean up spilled fluid immediate-
ly to avoid erosion of painted
surfaces or plastic parts.
a. Lower level
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE SPROCKET
1. Inspect:
• Sprocket teeth "a"
Excessive wear→Replace.
Replace the drive sprocket, rear
wheel sprocket and drive chain as a
set.
CHECKING THE DRIVE CHAIN
1. Measure:
• Drive chain length (15 links) "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
• While measuring the drive chain
length, push down on the drive
chain to increase its tension.
• Measure the length between drive
chain roller "1" and "16" as shown.
• Perform this measurement at two or
three different places.
Bleed screw:
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Pad pin:
18 Nm (1.8 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Pad pin plug:
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (protector):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4
Drive chain length (15
links):
: 242.9 mm
(9.563 in)

3-13
CHASSIS
2. Remove:
• Master link clip
•Joint "1"
• Drive chain "2"
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Place it in kerosene, and brush off
as much dirt as possible. Then re-
move the drive chain from the ker-
osene and dry the drive chain.
4. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff→Replace the drive chain.
5. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
•Joint "2"
• Master link clip "3"
Be sure to install the master link
clip to the direction as shown.
a. Turning direction6. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.) NOTICE: Im-
proper drive chain slack will
overload the engine as well as
other vital parts of the motorcy-
cle and can lead to chain slip-
page or breakage. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the
drive chain slack within the
specified limits.
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage→
Repair or replace.
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

3-14
CHASSIS
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screwADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Rear frame Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
14 clicks out
* 13 clicks out
* For EUROPE
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
13 clicks out
* 12 clicks out
* For EUROPE

3-16
CHASSIS
• STANDARD POSITION:This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
(Which align the punch mark "a"
on the adjuster with the punch
mark "b" on the high compression
damping adjuster.)
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER HIGH COMPRESSION
DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:• High compression damping forceBy turning the adjuster "1". • STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of turns
from the fully turned-in position.
(Which align the punch mark "a"
on the adjuster with the punch
mark "b" on the adjuster body.)
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
CHECKING THE TIRE PRESSURE
1. Measure:• Tire pressureOut of specification →Adjust.
• Check the tire while it is cold.
• Loose bead stoppers allow the tire
to slip off its position on the rim
when the tire pressure is low.
• A tilted tire valve stem indicates that
the tire slips off its position on the
rim.
• If the tire valve stem is found tilted, the tire is considered to be slipping
off its position. Correct the tire posi-
tion.
CHECKING AND TIGHTENING THE
SPOKES
The following procedure applies to all
of the spokes.
1. Check:• Spokes
Bend/damage →Replace.
Loose spoke →Retighten.
Tap the spokes with a screw-
driver.
A tight spoke will emit a clear, ringing
tone; a loose spoke will sound flat.
2. Tighten: • Spokes(with a spoke nipple wrench "1")
Be sure to tighten the spokes before
and after break-in.
CHECKING THE WHEELS
1. Inspect:• Wheel runoutElevate the wheel and turn it.
Abnormal runout → Replace.
2. Inspect: • Bearing free playExist play →Replace.
Standard position:
About 13 clicks out
Stiffer "a" →Increase the high
compression damping force.
(Turn the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the high
compression damping force.
(Turn the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position 2 turns out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
About 1-1/2 turns out
Standard tire pressure: 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm
2,
15 psi)
Spoke nipple wrench: YM-01521/90890-01521
Spokes: 3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)

3-17
CHASSIS
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE
STEERING HEAD
1. Place a stand under the engine to
raise the front wheel off the
ground. WARNING! Securely
support the vehicle so that
there is no danger of it falling
over.
2. Check:
• Steering stem
Grasp the bottom of the forks and
gently rock the fork assembly
back and forth.
Free play→Adjust steering head.
3. Check:
• Steering smooth action
Turn the handlebar lock to lock.
Unsmooth action→Adjust steer-
ing ring nut.
4. Adjust:
• Steering ring nut
Steering ring nut adjustment
steps:
a. Remove the number plate.
b. Remove the handlebar and upper
bracket.
c. Loosen the steering ring nut "1"
using the steering nut wrench "2".
d. Tighten the steering ring nut "3"
using steering nut wrench "4".
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the thread of the steering stem.
• Set the torque wrench to the steer-
ing nut wrench so that they form a
right angle.
e. Loosen the steering ring nut one
turn.
f. Retighten the steering ring nut us-
ing the steering nut wrench.
Avoid over-tightening.
g. Check the steering stem by turn-
ing it lock to lock. If there is any
binding, remove the steering stem
assembly and inspect the steer-
ing bearings.
h. Install the washer "5", upper
bracket "6", washer "7", steering
stem nut "8", handlebar "9", han-
dlebar upper holder "10" and
number plate "11".
• The handlebar upper holder should
be installed with the punched mark
"a" forward.
• Install the handlebar so that the
marks "b" are in place on both
sides.
• Install the handlebar so that the pro-
jection "c" of the handlebar upper
holder is positioned at the mark on
the handlebar as shown.
• Insert the end of the fuel breather
hose "12" into the hole in the steer-
ing stem.
First tighten the bolts on the front
side of the handlebar upper holder,
and then tighten the bolts on the
rear side.
Steering nut wrench:
YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering nut wrench:
YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering ring nut (initial
tightening):
38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27
ft•lb)
Steering ring nut (final
tightening):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)Steering stem nut:
145 Nm (14.5 m•kg, 105
ft•lb)
Handlebar upper holder:
28 Nm (2.8 m•kg, 20
ft•lb)
Pinch bolt (upper brack-
et):
21 Nm (2.1 m•kg, 15
ft•lb)
Number plate:
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

4-34
CDI MAGNETO
REMOVING THE ROTOR
1. Remove:
• Nut (rotor) "1"
• Washer "2"
Use the rotor holding tool "3".
2. Remove:
• Rotor "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
When installing the flywheel puller,
turn it counterclockwise.
CHECKING THE CDI MAGNETO
1. Inspect:
• Rotor inner surface "a"
• Stator outer surface "b"
Damage→Inspect the crankshaft
runout and crankshaft bearing.
If necessary, replace CDI magne-
to and/or stator.
CHECKING THE WOODRUFF KEY
1. Inspect:
• Woodruff key "1"
Damage→Replace.INSTALLING THE CDI MAGNETO
1. Install:
• Stator "1"
• Screw (stator) "2"
Temporarily tighten the screw (stator)
at this point.
2. Install:
• Woodruff key "1"
• Rotor "2"
• Clean the tapered portions of the
crankshaft and rotor.
• When installing the woodruff key,
make sure that its flat surface "a" is
in parallel with the crankshaft center
line "b".
• When installing the rotor, align the
keyway "c" of the rotor with the
woodruff key.
3. Install:
• Washer "1"
• Nut (rotor) "2"
Use the rotor holding tool "3".4. Adjust:
• Ignition timing
Refer to "CHECKING THE IGNI-
TION TIMING" section in the
CHAPTER 3.
5. Tighten:
• Screw (stator) "1"
6. Check:
• Ignition timing
Re-check the ignition timing.
7. Connect:
• CDI magneto lead "1"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
8. Install:
• Gasket [crankcase cover (left)]
• Crankcase cover (left) "1"
• Screw [crankcase cover (left)] "2"
Tighten the screws in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
Rotor holding tool:
YU-1235/90890-01235
Flywheel puller:
YM-1189/90890-01189
Nut (rotor):
56 Nm (5.6 m•kg, 40
ft•lb)
Rotor holding tool:
YU-1235/90890-01235
Ignition timing (B.T.D.C):
0.48 mm (0.019 in)
Screw (stator):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Screw [crankcase cover
(left)]:
5 Nm (0.5 m•kg, 3.6
ft•lb)

4-41
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
REMOVING THE SEGMENT
1. Remove:
• Bolt (segment) "1"
• Segment "2"
Turn the segment counterclockwise
until it stops and loosen the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when removing the bolt.
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Remove:
• Crankcase (right) "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
• Make appropriate bolts "3" as
shown available by yourself and at-
tach the tool with them.
• Fully tighten the tool holding bolts,
but make sure the tool body is par-
allel with the case. If necessary,
one screw may be backed out
slightly to level tool body.
• As pressure is applied, alternately
tap on the engine mounting boss
and transmission shafts.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If one
end "hangs up", take pressure off
the push screw, realign, and start
over. If the cases do not separate,
check for a remaining case bolt or
fitting. Do not force.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Make appropriate bolts "3" as shown
available by yourself and attach the
tool with them.
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner race
as shown in "A".
• If the bearing is removed together
with the crankshaft, remove the
bearing using a general bearing
puller "2" as shown in "B".
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge. Flywheel puller:
YU-1362-A/90890-
01362
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252