tow BUICK RAINIER 2007 Service Manual

Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You cannot see or smell CO.
It can cause unconsciousness or death.
SeeEngine Exhaust on page 122.
To maximize your safety when towing
a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)

If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or
another opening, drive with your front,
main heating or cooling system on
and with the fan on any speed. This
will bring fresh, outside air into your
vehicle. Do not use the climate control
setting for maximum air because it
only recirculates the air inside your
vehicle. SeeDual Automatic Climate
Control System on page 170.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
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Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connection,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer
has electric brakes, start your vehicle and
trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure the brakes are
working. This lets you check your electrical
connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will
ash whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the
bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may
think drivers behind you are seeing your signal
when they are not. It’s important to check
occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear,
under heavy loads or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill
grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will
boil at a lower temperature than at normal
altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately
after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
your vehicle may show signs similar to engine
overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while
parked (preferably on level ground) with the
automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating
on page 382.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transmission uid (don’t overll), engine
oil, axle lubricant, belt(s), cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in
this manual, and the Index will help you nd them
quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to
review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts
and bolts are tight.
351

Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with a seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness has a seven-pin
universal heavy-duty trailer connector (if equipped
with the trailering package) that is attached to a
bracket on the hitch platform. If your vehicle is not
equipped with the heavy-duty trailer connector,
you may purchase one from your dealer.The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Running Lamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Dark Blue: Electric Brakes
Red: Battery Feed (The chassis wiring ring
terminal must be fastened to a stud on the
underhood electrical center before the
trailer feed will become active.)
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector
is available from your dealer.
If you are charging a remote (non-vehicle) battery,
turn on the headlamps to boost the vehicle
system voltage and properly charge the battery.
Your vehicle is also equipped with wiring for an
electric trailer brake controller. These wires are
located inside the vehicle on the driver’s side under
the instrument panel. These wires should be
connected to an electric trailer brake controller by
your dealer or a qualied service center.
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A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 384.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 374.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 391.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 369.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 375.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 369.
G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 382.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 397.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 390.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 392.K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 465.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 396.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time
you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be
on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 366
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several
minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you
do not do this, the oil dipstick might not
show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the
way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down,
and check the level.
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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow
these steps:
1. Flip the handle up and then remove the
dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
The automatic
transmission dipstick
handle with this symbol
on it is located in the
engine compartment on
the passenger’s side
of the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on
page 366for more information on location.
2. Reinstall it back in all the way, wait three
seconds and then pull it back out again. If
the dipstick does not go down the tube easily,
turn the blade and try again until it is fully
inserted in the tube.3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The uid level must be in the
COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for
a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched
area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the
dipstick pointed down to get an accurate
reading.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range,
reinstall the dipstick back in all the way;
then ip the handle down to lock the dipstick
in place.
377

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can
burn you badly, even if you just open the
hood.Stay away from the engine if you
see or hear steam coming from it. Just
turn it off and get everyone away from the
vehicle until it cools down. Wait until
there is no sign of steam or coolant
before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch re.
You or others could be badly burned.
Stop your engine if it overheats, and get
out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.
Notice:If your engine catches re because
you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle
can be badly damaged. The costly repairs
would not be covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too
hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of
steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to do
so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P) or
NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as
necessary.
383

Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan.
When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine. In most
everyday driving conditions the clutch is not
engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces
fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases when the clutch engages so
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is
merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is
not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
SeeEngine
Compartment Overview
on page 366for
reservoir location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power
steering uid unless you suspect there is a leak in
the system or you hear an unusual noise. A
uid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
390

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly
tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 474.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When
you change a wheel, remove any rust or
dirt from places where the wheel attaches
to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can
use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt
off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 436.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it
is time for new tires is
to check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires
may not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following
statements are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more
places around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through
the tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or
snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage
that cannot be repaired well because of the
size or location of the damage.
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