tow CADILLAC ESCALADE EXT 2006 2.G Workshop Manual

Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
4-59

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if
the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul
Mode” earlier.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant at or near
sea level will boil at a lower temperature than at higher
altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately
after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your
vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably
on level ground) with the automatic transmission in
PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine
off. If you do get the overheat warning, seeEngine
Overheating on page 5-26.
4-60

Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake
system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4-61

Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with the seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness with a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket
on the hitch platform.The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire
is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with
a trailer.
The seven-wire harness contains the following
trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
4-62

Electric Brake Control Jumper
This harness may be included with your vehicle as part
of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.
This harness is for an electric brake controller and
includes a trailer battery feed fuse. It should be installed
by your dealer or a qualied service center.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of
the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include
the weight of the people inside, but you can gure about
150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load
must not be more than your vehicles CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with your trailer attached, so that
you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without
the spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-50.
4-63

Engine Oil
If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the
Driver Information Center (DIC), it means you need to
check your engine oil level right away. For more
information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL under
DIC Warnings and Messages on page 3-48.
You should check your engine oil level regularly;
this is an added reminder.
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-14

To get the right reading, the uid should be at normal
operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above
50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the
vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature
gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold uid check can be made after the vehicle
has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine
off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the
engine run at idle for ve minutes if outside
temperatures are 50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder
than 50°F (10°C), you may have to idle the engine
longer. Should the uid level be low during this cold
check, you must check the uid hot before adding uid.
Checking the uid hot will give you a more accurate
reading of the uid level.Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position
the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
handle with this graphic is
located at the rear of
the engine compartment,
on the passenger’s
side of the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12
for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
5-22

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
The ENGINE COOLANT HOT message, along with a
low coolant condition, can indicate a serious problem.
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. SeeTowing a Trailer on page 4-50.
If you get the ENGINE COOLANT HOT message with
no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.
3. If you are in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while
driving — DRIVE (D).If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, park, and fast
idle your vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is
equipped with an engine-driven cooling fan, push down
the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice
as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked.
If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is
equipped with an electric engine cooling fan, idle the
engine for three minutes while you are parked.
If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get
everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also,
see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode”
later in this section.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-27

Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
If an overheated engine condition exists and the
REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is displayed,
an overheat protection mode which alternates ring
groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage.
In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and
engine performance. This operating mode allows your
vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency.
Driving extended miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in
the overheat protection mode should be avoided.
Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair.
The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the
cause of coolant loss, change the oil and reset the
oil life system. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-14.
Cooling System
When you decide it is safe to lift the hood, here is what
you will see:
A. Coolant Surge Tank
B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
C. Engine Cooling Fan
5-28

Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle is equipped with a clutched engine
cooling fan, when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins
faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most
everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower
and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves
fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy
vehicle loading, trailer towing, and/or high outside
temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch
more fully engages, so you may hear an increase
in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra
shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.If your vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans,
you may hear the fans spinning at low speed during
most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no
cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or if
you are operating your air conditioning system, the fans
change to high speed and you may hear an increase
in fan noise. This is normal and indicates that the
cooling system is functioning properly. The fans will
change to low speed when additional cooling is
no longer required.
5-33