fuse CHEVROLET CAMARO 1967 1.G Chassis User Guide

HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING 1A-81

HORN RELAY

r

CONN.-

14 BROWN

(TO FUSE

PANEL)
BATTERY
1

—I ^ COMPR

ESSOR

DASH y

V-^ PANEL \

GROMMET—%
1 \

_ J~ ") "^

>14 BLACK/RED STRIPE-

FUSE .20 AMP.

•WIRE ASM. BLOWER-

MOTOR
14 BLACK 1

IGNITION SWITCH1

(ACCESSORY

TERMINAL)

CONTROL SWITCH
-RESISTOR

CONN.

•14 TAN

•16 BLACK

LIGHT BLUE STRIPE

•THERMOSTAT CONTROL

EVAPORATOR & BLOWER ASM.

Fig.
117—Universal System Wiring Diagram (Typical)

CHEVROLET CHASSI

HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING 1A-82

•BATTERY

(POS)
CABLE
NOTE
When
control
switch*

is !TOFF"
&
Air
Cond
is
"ON"

(Control
knob
pulled
but) the

blower
fan'will
run at low
speed.
CONTROL
SWITCH

CONNECTIONS

OFF

LOW

MED

HIGH
B
TO
NONE

B
TO L

BTOL&M

B
TO L
&
H

COMPRESSOR
GROUND

WIRE
ASM
BATTERY

(NEGATIVE)

CABLE

COMPRESSOR
ASM

DASHPAJSTEL

GROMMET

16DG
CONTROL

SWITCH

RESISTOR

ASM

14LBL

14BRN
CLUTCH

COIL

EXTENSION

WIRE
ASM
-14BRN--N

JUNC

BLOCKi

OSTATIC

SWITCH

CONTACTS

NORMALLY

CLOSED
STARTING

MOTOR

SOLENOID

BLOWER

MOTOR
AIR
COND

CONTROL

(PUSH-PULL)

KNOB

DOOR
SWITCH

(PUSH
BUTTON

NORMALLY

CLOSED)
RELAY

ASM

HORN

RELAY

DIVERTER

DOOR CABLE

FUSE

PANEL

EVAPORATOR

ASM

IGNITION SWITCH-

ACCESSORY TERMINAL)

Fig. 118—All Weather Wiring Diagram (Chevy II)

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE 4-29

REAR AXLE NOISE DIAGNOSIS

Mechanical failures of the rear axle are relatively

simple to locate and correct. Noise in a rear axle is a

little more difficult to diagnose and repair. One of the

most essential parts of rear axle service is proper

diagnosis.

Ail rear axles are noisy to a certain degree. The

action of transmitting the high engine torque through a

90° turn reducing propeller shaft speed produces noise

in rear axles. This point establishes the need for a line

between normal and abnormal or unacceptable axle

noises.

Slight axle noise heard only at a certain speed or under

remote conditions must be considered normal. Axle noise

tends to "peak" at varying speeds and the noise is in no

way indicative of trouble in the axle.

If noise is present in an objectionable form, loud or at

all speeds, an effort should be made to isolate the noise

as being in one particular unit of the vehicle. Axle noise

is often confused with other noises such as tire noise,

transmission noise, propeller shaft vibration and uni-

versal joint noise. Isolation of the noise as in any one

unit requires skill and experience. An attempt to elimini-

ate a slight noise may baffle even the best of diagnos-

ticians. Such practices as raising tire pressure to

eliminate tire noise, listening for the noise at varying

speeds and on drive, float and coast, and under proper

highway conditions, turning the steering wheel from left

to right to detect wheel bearing noise, will aid even the

beginner in detecting alleged axle noises. Axle noises

fall into two categories: gear noise and bearing noise.

GEAR NOISE

Abnormal gear noise can be recognized since it pro-

duces a cycling pitch and will be very pronounced in the

speed range at which it occurs, appearing under either

"drive," "float" or "coast" conditions. Gear noise

tends to peak in a narrow speed range or ranges, while

bearing noise will tend to remain constant in pitch. Ab-

normal gear noise is rare and usually originates from

the scoring of the ring gear and pinion teeth as a result

of insufficient or improper lubrication in new assemblies.

Side gears seldom give trouble as they are used only

when the rear wheels travel at different speeds.

BEARING NOISE

Defective bearings will always produce a whine that is

constant in pitch and varies with vehicle speed. This fact

will allow you to distinguish between bearing noise and

gear noise.

1.
Pinion bearing noise resulting from a bearing failure

can be identified by a constant rough sound. Pinion

bearings are rotating at a higher speed than differen-

tial side bearings or axle shaft bearings. This

particular noise can be picked up best by testing the

car on a smooth road (black top). However, care

should be taken not to confuse tire noise with bear-

ing or gear noise. If any doubt exists, tire treads

should be examined for irregularities that would

produce such noise.

2.
Wheel bearing noise may be confused with rear axle

noise. To differentiate between wheel bearings and

rear axle, drive the vehicle on a smooth road at

medium-low speed. With traffic permitting, turn
Fig.
74—Scored Hypoid Ring Gear

the vehicle sharply right and left. If noise is caused

by wheel bearings, it will increase in the turns be-

cause of the side loading. If noise cannot be isolated

to front or rear wheel bearings, inspection will be

necessary.

3.
Side bearings will produce a constant rough noise of

a slower nature than pinion bearings. Side bearing

noise will not fluctuate in the above wheel bearing

test.

Failure Analysis

The most common types of rear axle failures are

hypoid gear tooth scoring and fracture, differential gear

fracture. and/or differential bearing failure, and axle

shaft bearing failure.

Fig.
75-Cracked Hypoid Ring Gear

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

BRAKES 5-21

brake fluid. Coat the primary and secondary seals

on the secondary piston with clean brake fluid. Insert

the secondary piston spring retainer into the sec-

ondary piston spring. Place the retainer and spring

down over the end of the secondary piston until the

retainer locates inside of the lips of the primary

cup.

10.
Hold the master cylinder with the open end of the

bore down. Push the secondary piston into the bore

until the spring seats against the closed end of the

bore.

11.
Position the master cylinder in a vise with the

open end of the bore up. Coat the primary and

secondary seal on the primary piston with clean

brake fluid. Push the primary piston assembly,

spring end first, into the bore of the master cylinder*

Hold the piston down and snap the lock ring into

position in the small groove in the I.D. of the bore.

12.
Push the primary piston down to move the secondary

piston forward far enough to clear the stop screw

hole in the bottom of the front fluid reservoir. Install

the stop screw.

13.
Install reservoir diaphragm in the reservoir cover

and install the cover on the main cylinder. Push

bail wire into position to secure the reservoir cover.

Installation

1.
Assemble the push rod through the push rod retainer,

if it has been disassembled.

2.
Push the retainer over the end of the main cylinder.

Assemble new boot over push rod and press it down

over the push rod retainer. Slide new mounting

gasket into position.

3.
Secure .the main cylinder to the firewall with mount-

ing bolts.

4.
Connect the push rod clevis to the brake pedal with

pin and retainer.

5. Connect the brake lines to the main cylinder.

6. Fill the main cylinder reservoirs to the levels

shown in Figure 8. Bleed the brake system as out-

lined in this section.

7. K necessary, adjust the brake pedal free play as

outlined in this section.

WHEEL CYLINDER (Fig. 33)

The wheel cylinder boots should be removed from a

cylinder body only when they are visibly damaged or

leaking fluid. Wheel cylinders having torn, cut, or heat-

cracked boots should be completely overhauled.

Removal

1.
Raise vehicle and place on jack stands.

Fig.
33-Chevelle Wheel Cylinder—Exploded View

1.
Push Rod Boot 6. Spring

2.
Piston 7. Piston Cup

3. Piston Cup 8. Piston

4.
Housing 9. Push Rod Boot

5. Fluid Inlet
2.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Back off brake

adjustment, if necessary, and remove drum.

3.
Disconnect brake system hydraulic line from

cylinder.

4.
Remove brake shoe pull back springs.

5. Remove screws securing wheel cylinder to flange

plate. Disengage cylinder push rods from brake

shoes and remove cylinder.

NOTE:
On Chevrolet, it is necessary to re-

move the anchor pin which holds the front wheel

cylinder to flange plate to remove the front

wheel cylinder.

Disassembly

1.
Remove boots from cylinder ends with pliers and

discard boots.

2.
Remove and discard pistons and cups.

Inspection and Cleaning

NOTE:
Staining is not to be confused with

corrosion. Corrosion can be identified as pits

or excessive bore roughness.

1.
Inspect cylinder bore. Check for staining and corro-

sion.
Discard cylinder if corroded.

2.
Polish any discolored or stained area with crocus

cloth by revolving the cylinder on the cloth sup-

ported by a finger. Do not slide tfce cloth in a

lengthwise manner under pressure.

NOTE:
Before washing parts, hands must be

clean. Do not wash hands in gasoline or oil

before cleaning parts. Use soap and water to

clean hands.

3.
Wash the cylinder and metal parts in Declene or

equivalent.

4.
Shake excess cleaning fluid from the cylinder-. Do

not use a rag to dry the cylinder as lint from the rag

cannot be kept from the cylinder bore surfaces.

5. Check piston for scratches or other visual damage;

replace if necessary.

Assembly (Fig. 33)

1.
Lubricate the cylinder bore and counterbore with

clean brake fluid and insert spring - expander

assembly.

2.
Install new cups with flat surfaces toward outer

ends of cylinder. Be sure cups are lint and dirt free

before insertion. Do not lubricate cups prior to

assembly.

3.
Install new Durex pistons into cylinder with flat

surfaces toward center of cylinder. Do not lubri-

cate pistons before installation.

4.
Press new boots into cylinder counterbores by hand.

Do not lubricate boots prior to installation.

Installation

1.
Position wheel cylinder to brake flange plate. Install

screws and tighten securely.

NOTE:
On Chevrolet front wheels, mount front

wheel cylinders to the brake flange plate by

installing the threaded anchor pin through the

wheel cylinder housing and tighten to 130 lb. ft.

To secure, peen over the flat washer on the

anchor pin.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

ENGINE-ELECTRICAL 6Y-9

63 AMP 1

MODELS ONLY'
BATTERY FUSIBLE

LINK
HORN

FUSIBLE LINK'
TRANSISTOR
FUSIBLE LINK'

Fig.
4c— Circuitry - Voltage Regulator Assemblies (Corvette)

Engine compartment wiring harness incorporates sev-

eral fusible links. Each link is identified with its gage

size. A fusible link is a length of special wire (normally

four wire gages smaller than the circuit it is protecting)

used in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such

as the ignition circuit. The same size wire with a hypalon

insulation must be used when replacing a fusible link.

The links are:

1.
The pigtail lead at the battery positive cable (except

Corvette) is a 14 gage, brown fusible link protecting

the 10 gage battery charging circuit. This wire is an

integral part of the battery cable assembly and serv-

icing requires replacing the complete battery cable

assembly. On Corvette models this link is installed

as a molded splice at the solenoid "Bat" terminal

and servicing requires splicing in a new link.

2.
A 16 gage black fusible link is located at the horn
4.
relay to protect all unfused wiring of 12 gage or

larger. It is installed as a molded splice and serv-

icing requires splicing in a new link.

The generator warning light and field circuitry (16

gage wire) is protected by a fusible link (20 gage

orange wire) used in the "battery feed to voltage

regulator #3 terminal" wire. The link is installed as

a molded splice in the generator and forward lamp

harness and is serviced by splicing in a new 20 gage

wire as required.

The ammeter circuit on all models is protected by

two orange, 20 gage wire fusible links installed as

molded splices in the circuit at the junction block or

the solenoid "Bat" terminal (Corvette only) and at

the horn relay. Each link is serviced by splicing in a

new 20 gage wire as required.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS

At regular intervals, inspect the terminals for cor-

rosion an4 loose connections, and the wiring for frayed

insulation. Check mounting bolts for tightness. Check the

drive belt for alignment, proper tension and wear. Be-

cause of the higher inertia and load capacity of the rotor

used in A.C. generators, PROPER BELT TENSION is

more critical than on D.C. generators.

Since the Delcotron and its companion regulator are

designed for use on negative polarity systems only, the

following precautions must be observed. Failure to ob-

serve these precautions may result in serious damage to

the charging system.

1.
When installing a battery, always make absolutely

sure the ground polarity of the battery, generator and

regulator is the same.

2.
When connecting a booster battery, make certain to

connect the correct battery terminals together.

3.
When connecting a charger to the battery, connect the

correct charger leads to the battery
%
terminals.

4.
Never operate the generator on an uncontrolled open
TO SOLENOID

BAT ACC RES. WIRE

Fig.
5c—Typical Wiring Diagram Showing Lead Connections

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-13

PULL-IN

WINDING
li
HOLD-IN

WINDING

Fig.
4B -
Overdrive Electrical Circuit Wiring Diagram

ELECTRICAL

Any one of the following general complaints may be due

to electrical trouble in the overdrive circuit.

1.
Does not engage.

2.
Does not release.

3.
Does not kickdown from overdrive.

These troubles may be traced and remedied as de-

scribed in the following paragraphs.

1.
Does not engage

a. With the ignition switch on, ground the "KD" ter-

minal of the solenoid relay with a jumper lead.

If the solenoid clicks, the relay and solenoid cir-

cuits are in operating condition. If no click is

heard in the relay, check the fuse and replace if

defective.

b.
If the fuse is good, use a second jumper lead to

connect the "SOL" and "BAT" terminals of the

relay. If a click is now heard in the solenoid, the

relay is probably at fault and should be repaired

or replaced.

c. If the solenoid does not click in Step b, check the

wiring to the No. 4 terminal of the solenoid and

replace if necessary. If the wiring is not defec-

tive,
the trouble is probably in the solenoid. Re-

move the solenoid cover, examine the solenoid

contacts in series with the pull-in winding and

clean if necessary. Test again for clicks, as in

Step b, after replacing solenoid cover and lead

wires.
Replace the solenoid if trouble has not

been corrected.

d. If the relay and solenoid circuits are in good con-

dition as determined in Step a, leave the ignition

switch on and make sure the manual control knob

is in the overdrive position. Ground one and then

the other of the two terminals next to the stem of

the kickdown switch (identified as "SW" and
?fREL"). K the solenoid clicks when one terminal

is grounded but not the other, replace the switch.

If the solenoid does not click when either of the

terminals is grounded, check the wiring between

the relay and the kickdown switch and replace if

defective.

e. If the solenoid clicks as each terminal is grounded

in Step d, ground the governor switch terminal.

If the solenoid clicks, the governor switch may be

defective. If the solenoid does not click, check

the wiring between the kickdown and governor

switches and replace if necessary.

2.
Does not release

a. Remove the connection to the "KD" terminal of

the relay. If this release overdrive, look for a

grounded control circuit between the relay and

governor switch.

b.
If the overdrive is not released in Step a, dis-

connect the lead to the "SOL" terminal of relay.

If this releases the overdrive, replace the relay.

3.
Does not kickdown from overdrive

a. With the engine running, connect a jumper lead

between the No. 6 terminal of the solenoid and

ground. Operate the kickdown switch by hand.

This should stop the engine. If it does, the sole-

noid is probably defective and it should be checked

for dirty ground-out contacts or other defects

within the ground-out circuit of the solenoid (fig.

4B).
Clean the contacts or replace the contact

plate as required.

b.
If the engine does not stop in Step a, ground one

and then the other of the two terminals (Identified

as "IGN" and "SOL") farthest from the sfem of

the kickdown switch. The engine should stop when

one of the two terminals (IGN) is grounded. If

the engine does not stop when the terminal is

grounded, the wiring or connections to the switch

between the switch and coil are defective. When

the btlier terminal (SOL) is grounded, the engine

should stop when the kickdown switch is operated.

If the engine does not stop when the kickdown

switch is operated with the second terminal

grounded, the kickdown switch is defective. If

the trouble is in the kickdown switch, adjust the

linkage to give more travel of the switch rod.

If this does not correct the trouble, replace the

kickdown switch.

If the kickdown switch operates as it should,

check for an open circuit in the wiring between

the kickdown switch and the No. 6 terminal of the

solenoid.

c. If the trouble is not located by the above checks,

the upper contacts of the kickdown switch may not

be opening. To check for this condition, ground

the overdrive control circuit at the governor

switch. This should cause the solenoid to click.

Operate the kickdown switch by hand. This should

cause a second click as the solenoid releases.

If there is no second click, adjust the linkage to

give more travel of the switch rod. If this does

not correct the trouble, replace the kickdown

switch.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES 10-4

the road and it slips, grinding off the tread on the inside

half of the tire at an excessive rate. This type of tire

shows much the same appearance of tread wear as tire

wear caused by negative camber.

Second, the transfer of weight may also over-load the

outside tires so much that they are laterally distorted

resulting in excessive wear on the outside half of the

tire producing a type of wear like that caused by ex-

cessive positive camber.

Cornering wear can be most easily distinguished from

abnormal camber wear by the rounding of the outside

shoulder or edge of the tire and by the roughening of the

tread surface which denotes abrasion.

Cornering wear often produces a fin or raised portion

along the inside edge of each row in the tread pattern.

In some cases this fin is almost as pronounced as a

toe-in fin, and in others, it tapers into a row of tread

blocks to such an extent that the tire has a definite step

wear appearance.

The only remedy for cornering wear is proper in-

struction of owners.

Fig.
5 - Tire Rotatidh

Rotation

To minimize the possibility of tire noise and to equal-

ize tire wear, it is recommended that tires be inter-

changed every 6000 miles as shown in Figure 5 or more

frequently in the case of extremely heavy wear.

NOTE:
Rotate Corvette tires at 4000 miles or

sooner.

Interchanging tires will effectively prevent undue wear

on any particular tire. II tire interchanging is followed

as recommended above, all tires will have the same

number of miles in each wheel position at the end of the

fourth change. When interchanging tires, inspect for

signs of abnormal wear, bulging, etc., stones, glass, and

nails should be removed before reinstallation.

Noise

Noise caused by the normal action of tire treads on

various road surfaces is often confused with rear axle
gears or other noises in the car.

The determination of whether tires are causing the

noise complained of is relatively simple. The car should

be driven at various speeds and note taken of part

throttle, and sudden acceleration and deceleration. Axle

and exhaust noises show definite variations under these

conditions, while tire noise will remain constant. Tire

noise is, however, most pronounced at speeds of approx-

imately twenty or thirty miles per hour.

The tires may be further checked by driving the ear

over smooth pavement with the tires at normal pressure

and again over the same stretch of pavement when the

tires have been inflated to fifty pounds pressure. Reduce

the tires to normal pressure one at a time to determine

the faulty tire or tires. This high inflation pressure

should immediately be reduced to normal after test. If

the noise for which the test is being made is caused by

tires,.
it will noticeably decrease when the tire pressure

is increased, whereas axle noise should show no change

in volume.

If, on inspection, the tires on the front wheels are

found to be creating most of the noise the alignment of

the front wheels should be checked. Excessive tire noise

usually results from lower than recommended tire pres-

sure, incorrect alignment, uneven tire wear, or defective

(thumper) tire.

Cleaning

A great deal of ordinary road dirt which collects on

white sidewall tires may be sponged off with clear water

or a mild soap solution.

A good brand of whitewall tire cleaner, however, is

a quicker and more effective cleaner for removing dirt

and stains from whitewall tires and in many cases it

will remove stains and discoloration that the simpler

method of soap and water will not remove.

Under no circumstances should gasoline, kerosene or

any cleaning fluid containing a solvent derived from oil

be used to clean whitewall tires. Oil in any form is

detrimental to tire rubber and a cleaner with an oil base

will discolor or injure whitewall tires.

Change (W/Wheels)

To change the road wheels using the jack that comes

with the car, observe the following procedure:

1.
Set hand brake and block front wheels if rear wheel

is being changed.

2.
Remove hub cap or wheel disc and break wheel

mounting nuts loose.

3.
Place the jack as directed tinder, General Informa-

tion,
Section 0 and raise car until wheel clears

ground.

4.
Remove wheel mounting nuts and remove wheel from

hub or drum.

5. To replace road wheel, reverse the above instrue-

. tions. Proper torque on nuts is 55-75 ft. lbs.

torque (70-85 ft. lbs. for Corvette aluminum wheel

nuts).

CAUTION: On models equipped with discs, in-

dex the pilot hole in the disc on the valve stem.

(To insure that the anti-rotation notches in wheel

disc register on lugs in wheel rim.)

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES
10-6

lifted on the rim to force the top tire bead

against the top rim flange. The weight of the

tire will seat the bottom bead.

Repair

When a tire loses all or most of its air pressure,

particularly when driving at high legal speeds on today1 s

super-highways, recommended procedure is to remove it

from the wheel for complete inspection to be sure no

tire damage has occurred. Punctured tires should be

removed from the wheel and permanently repaired from

the inside.

Externally applied plug type repairs should be con-?

sidered temporary and the tire should be permanently

repaired as soon as possible.

Hot Patch Method

It is essential to thoroughly clean and remove all

foreign matter from the hole left by the puncturing-object

without enlarging the injury and then follow the manu-

facturer's instructions for vulcanizing the patch.

Rubber Plug Methods

There are several types of rubber plugs--some are

inserted from the inside of the tire; others are inserted

from the outside of the tire without demounting the tire

from the rim.

When using the plug method be sure to clean and

lubricate the hole with repair cement before inserting

the plug. Your tire supplier has available complete kits

containing materials, tools and detailed instructions for

making repairs with plugs. Follow instructions in the kit

you use.

Cold Patch Method

(Self Vulcanizing Type)

In this method it is essential to thoroughly clean and

remove all foreign matter from the hole left by the

puncturing object without enlarging the injury; also on

the inside of the tire, buff an area large enough for the

patch. Follow the manufacturer1 s instructions for appli-

cation of the special cement and self-vulcanizing cold

patch.
Pressure Gun Method

Several types of pressure guns are available. Consult

your tire supplier for materials and instructions.

Tire Installation Safety Precautions

When tires are mounted on dirty or corroded rims, or

when they are not properly centered on rims, the tire

bead may "bind" on the rim, and refuse to seat. Allowing

pressure to continue to build up within the assembly in

an attempt to seat the tire bead is a DANGEROUS PRAC-

TICE which can result in a broken tire bead, and serious

injury to the serviceman.

1.
Make sure that rim flanges and bead ledge (espe-

cially hump and radius) areas are smooth and clean.

Remove any oxidized rubber, dried soap solution,

rust, heavy paint, etc. with a wire brush, or, in ex-

treme cases, a file.

2.
Lubricate tire beads, rim flanges, and bead ledge

areas with a liberal amount of thin vegetable oil

soap solution, or approved rubber lubricant,

3.
Insure that air pressure build-up during the bead

seating process is not allowed to exceed 40 pounds

pressure. If beads have not seated by the time pres-

sure reaches 40 pounds, assembly should be deflated,

re-positioned on rim, re-lubricated and re-inflated.

4.
Make sure valve core is inserted in valve stem

prior to inflating.

5.
Use an extension gauge with clip on chuck so air

pressure build-up can be closely watched and so

that you can stand well back from the assembly

during the bead seating process.

WHEELS

Valve Assembly

Replace

NOTE: Always use new valve assembly when

replacing.

1.
Cut or drive old valve assembly out of rim.

2.
Clean valve hole and surrounding area on inside of

flange with steel wool.

Fig. 6 - Installing Valve
Fig. 7 - Rim Inspection

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

SECTION 12

ELECTRICAL-BODY AND CHASSIS

CONTENTS
OF
THIS
SECTION

Page
Page

System 12-1

Instruments and Gauges 12-21

Directional Signal 12r40
Windshield Wipers and Washers 12-44

Wiring Diagrams 12-56

Special Tools 12-60

LIGHTING SYSTEM

INDEX

Page

General Description
!2-i

Maintenance and Adjustments
•.................. 12-2

Headlamp Adjustment......................
12-3

Headlamp Panel Travel Adjustment.
12-5

Service Operations.
. . .. 12-5

Front Lighting
12-5

Headlamp
. 12_5

Parking Lamp
12-5

Fender Lamp
. 12_^

Headlamp Panel
12-8

Headlamp Panel Motor
^2-9

Rear Lighting
l2-10

Tail, Stop and Directional Lamps
12-10
Page

Backing Lamps
12-14

License Plate Lamp
12-14

Automatic Transmission Quadrant Lamp
12-14

Seat Separator Console Lamps
. 12-15

Lighting Switch
. . 12-15

Wiper Switch.
12-15

Stoplight Switch
12-15

Dimmer Switch
12-15

Backing Lamp Switches
12-15

Neutral Safety Switches
12-17

Parking Brake Alarm Switch
................. 12-19

Instrument Panel Compartment Lamp/Switch
12-19

Cirgarette Lighter
12-19

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

.
The lighting system includes: the main lighting switch,

stop light, dimmer, and backing lamp switches, head-

lamps, parking lamps, stop, tail and directional lamps,

instrument illumination and indicator lamps, and the

necessary wiring to complete the various circuits. A

fuse panel provides convenient power take offs and fuse

clips for the appropriate circuits (fig. 1).

Chevrolet and Chevelle headlamp installation is all

new in that the headlamps are located in the radiator

support with adjusting screws and springs. Eliminating

the need for having separate headlamp housings. Chev-

rolet and Chevelle headlamp retainers and springs are

interchangeable.

Chevy n headlamp housings are new because of revised

front end styling and Corvette front end lighting is basi-

cally carryover.

Front fender lamps have been added as an option for

Chevrolet models and as standard equipment on Caprice

series.

Camaro models use single headlamps and the Rally

Sport model headlamps are covered by a retractable

section of the grille when lamps are not used. The sec-

tion of the grille covering the headlamps folds back when

lights are required; the headlamps are stationary. The

covering is retracted by a small electric motor mounted

to the headlamp housing. The headlamps are automat-

ically uncovered when the headlight switch is pulled "ON"

for illumination. If at any time the electrical circuit

becomes inoperative, the lamps can be uncovered manu-

ally. The ignition switch must be
"ON"
in order to close

the headlamp doors.

Parking lamp for Chevelle and Chevrolet models are
new due to revised front end sheet metal and bumper

styling. Parking lamps are located in the bumper on

Chevrolet, Chevelle and Chevy n models

Camaro parking lamps are located in the radiator

grille except for the Rally Sport models on which the

parking lamps are in the valance panel. For styling

reasons, the lens is white and an amber glass bulb is

used. All Camaro parking lamps require a separate

ground wire to assure a good ground contact because of

the plastic grille and painted contact surfaces.

The Chevrolet tail, stop, and directional lamps are in

one housing with a three section lens design on Impala

and Caprice sedans. The center lens for Impala series

is the back-up lamp. The center lens on the Caprice is

a tail lamp with the back-up lamps being located in the

rear bumper. Chevrolet station wagons have three indi-

vidual housings with three lenses, the center lamp being

the back-up. Biscayne and Bel-Air sedans have a single

housing and lens for tail, stop, and directional lamp with

a similarly constructed back-up lamp inboard and adja-

cent to it.

Chevelle tail, stop, and directional lamps are a single

lens design that follows through with the rear fender

styling. The back-up lamp is located in r.ear bumper.

Camaro models except Rally Sport have tail lamps

with integral back-up lamps mounted inboard of the rear

fenders between the trunk opening and bumper. The

Rally Sport model has dual tail lamps in the rear housing

and valance mounted back-up lamps.

Corvette, Chevy n, and Corvair tail and directional

signal lights are carryover. The Corvette has new back-

up lamps center mounted above the license plate opening.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE

ELECTRICAL-BODY AND CHASSIS 12-2

FJg.
1 - Fuse Panel Assembly

All power window and tailgate circuits require the igni-

tion switch to be "ON" to open or close the windows un-

like past model designs which were operated independ-

ently of the ignition switch.

The windshield wiper and washer switch is new in that

washer button in the center of the knob has been deleted
and its function will be accomplished by pushing the knob.

A set screw is used to retain the knob to the shaft.

In addition to fuses, the wiring harness incorporates

fusible links to protect the wiring. Links are used rather

than a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused,

such as the ignition circuit. Fusible links in the Chevro-

let wiring are four gauge sizes smaller than the cable it

is designed to protect. The links are marked on the

insulation with wire gauge size because of the heavy insu-

lation which makes the link appear a heavier gauge than it

actually is.

Engine compartment wiring harness incorporate sev-

eral fusible links. Each link is identified with its gauge

size.
A fusible link is a length of special wire (normally

four wire gauges smaller than the circuit it is protecting)

used in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such

as the ignition circuit. The same size wire with a spe-

cial hypalon insulation must be used when replacing a

fusible link.

The links are:

1.
The pigtail lead at the battery positive cable (except

Corvette) is a 14 gauge, brown fusible link protecting

the 10 gange battery charging circuit. This wire is

an integral part of the battery cable assembly and

servicing requires replacing the complete battery

cable assembly. On Corvette models this link is

installed as a molded splice at the solenoid "Bat"

terminal and servicing requires splicing in a new

link.

2.
A 16 gauge black fusible link is located at horn relay

to protect all unfused wiring of 12 gauge or larger.

It is a serviceable piece with an in-line connector

and is not integral with the wiring harness.

3.
The generator warning light and field circuitry (16

gauge wire) is protected by a fusible link (20 gauge

orange wire) used in the "battery feed to voltage

regulator #3 terminal" wire. The link is installed

as a molded splice in the generator and forward lamp

harness and is serviced by splicing in a new 20 gauge

wire as required.

4.
The ammeter circuit on all models is protected by

two orange, 20 gauge wire fusible links installed as

molded splices in the circuit at the junction block or

the solenoid "Bat" terminal (Corvette only) and at the

horn relay. Each link is serviced by splicing in a

new 20 gauge wire as required.

The wiring harnesses use a standarized. color code

common to all Chevrolet vehicles. Under the color code,

the color of the wire designates a particular circuit. The

harness title indicates the type of harness, single of mul-

tiple wire, and also describe the location of the harness.

The body harness is a flat, solid wire assembly and is

routed through the vehicle near the center of the body.

Composite wiring diagrams (figs. 104 thru 124) are in-

cluded at the end of this section.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS

Maintenance of the lighting units and wiring system

consists of an occasional check to see that all wiring

connections are tight and clean, that the lighting units are

tightly mounted to provide good ground and that the head-

lamps are properly adjusted. Loose or corroded con-

nections may cause a discharged battery, difficult start-

ing, dim lights, and possible damage to generator and

regulator. Wire harnesses must be replaced if insulation

becomes burned, cracked, or deteriorated. Whenever it
is necessary to splice a wire or repair one that is bro-

ken, always use solder to bond the splice. Always use

rosin flux solder on electrical connections. Use insulat-

ing tape to cover all splices or bare wires.

When replacing wires, it is important that the correct

size be used. Never replace a wire with one of a smaller

size.

Each harness and wire must be held securely in place

by clips or other holding devices to prevent chafing or

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL