lock CHEVROLET IMPALA 2006 9.G Manual PDF

Page 215 of 394

Braking in Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation
that requires hard braking.
If you have ABS, you can steer and brake at the same
time. However, if you do not have ABS, your rst
reaction — to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it
down — may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels can
stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle cannot respond
to your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever
direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling.
That could be off the road, into the very thing you
were trying to avoid, or into traffic.
If you do not have ABS, use a “squeeze” braking
technique. This will give you maximum braking while
maintaining steering control. You can do this by pushing
on the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure.
In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze
the brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear
or feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal.
This will help you retain steering control. If you do have
ABS, it is different. SeeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
on page 4-7.
In many emergencies, steering can help you more than
even the very best braking.
Traction Control System (TCS)
Your vehicle may have a traction control system that
limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road
conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one
or both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning to
lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces
engine power and may also upshift the transaxle and
apply the front brakes to limit wheel spin.
This light will ash when
your traction control system
is limiting wheel spin.
You may feel or hear the system working, but this is
normal.
If your vehicle is in cruise control when the traction
control system begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise
control will automatically disengage. When road
conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may
re-engage the cruise control. SeeCruise Control
on page 3-10.
4-9

Page 217 of 394

Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer
but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned
on the news happen on curves.
Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject
to the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia
will keep the vehicle going in the same direction.
If you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice,
you will understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle
at which the curve is banked, and your speed.
While you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control
systems — steering and braking — have to do their
work where the tires meet the road. Unless you
have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard
braking can demand too much of those places.
You can lose control.
The same thing can happen if you are steering through
a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those
two control systems — steering and acceleration — can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road
and make you lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way
you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
Adding non-GM accessories can affect your vehicle’s
performance. SeeAccessories and Modications
on page 5-3.
4-11

Page 218 of 394

Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective
than braking. For example, you come over a hill and nd
a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls
out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between
parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can
avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop in
time. But sometimes you cannot; there is not room.
That is the time for evasive action — steering around the
problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply your brakes — but, unless you
have anti-lock brakes, not enough to lock your wheels.
SeeBraking on page 4-6. It is better to remove as
much speed as you can from a possible collision.
Then steer around the problem, to the left or right
depending on the space available.An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you
can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without
removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer
quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
4-12

Page 221 of 394

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what the
driver has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip
and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration
skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels
to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety,
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration,
or braking, including reducing vehicle speed by
shifting to a lower gear. Any sudden changes could
cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface
is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to
recognize warning clues — such as enough water, ice,
or packed snow on the road to make a mirrored
surface — and slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If you
do not have ABS, then in a braking skid, where the
wheels are no longer rolling, release enough pressure
on the brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This
restores steering control. Push the brake pedal down
steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As long as
the wheels are rolling, you will have steering control.
4-15

Page 231 of 394

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires
and the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You will have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need
to be very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on.But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may
offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it
is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Traction control improves your ability to accelerate when
driving on a slippery road. Even though your vehicle
has the Traction Control System (TCS), you will want
to slow down and adjust your driving to the road
conditions. Under certain conditions, you may want to
turn the traction control system off, such as when driving
through deep snow and loose gravel, to help maintain
vehicle motion at lower speeds. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) on page 4-9.
Unless you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS),
you will want to brake very gently, too. If you do
have ABS, seeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on
page 4-7. ABS improves your vehicle’s stability when
you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you
have ABS or not, you will want to begin stopping
sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without ABS,
if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the
brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to
get the most traction you can.
4-25

Page 233 of 394

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any that
is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get
and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
4-27

Page 236 of 394

Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information label
is attached to the vehicle’s center pillar (B-pillar). With
the driver’s door open, you will nd the label attached
below the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading
information label lists the number of occupant seating
positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity
weight (B) in kilograms and pounds. The vehicle
capacity weight includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options.The Tire and Loading Information label also lists the
tire size of the original equipment tires (C) and the
recommended cold tire ination pressures (D). For more
information on tires and ination, seeTires on
page 5-54andInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-60.
There is also important loading information on the
Certication label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) for the front and rear axle, see “Certication
Label” later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1. Locate the statement “The combined weight
of occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and
passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and
passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs. Label Example
4-30

Page 245 of 394

Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If you do, then
be sure to seal the holes later when you remove the
hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly carbon monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get into your vehicle.
SeeEngine Exhaust on page 2-32. Dirt and water
can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop
to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with
your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to
read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain
them properly.
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, do not try to
tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do,
both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.
Even if your vehicle doesn’t have anti-lock
brakes, don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system
if the trailer’s brake system will use more than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure? If not, the trailer brake
system must not be used with your vehicle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the
brake uid tap at the upper rear master cylinder
port. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do,
it will bend and break off. Use steel brake tubing.
4-39

Page 250 of 394

Buying New Tires.........................................5-66
Different Size Tires and Wheels......................5-67
Uniform Tire Quality Grading..........................5-68
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance..................5-69
Wheel Replacement......................................5-69
Tire Chains..................................................5-71
If a Tire Goes Flat........................................5-72
Changing a Flat Tire.....................................5-73
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools................5-74
Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the
Spare Tire................................................5-76
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools............5-81
Compact Spare Tire......................................5-83
Appearance Care............................................5-84
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle.................5-84
Fabric/Carpet...............................................5-85
Leather.......................................................5-86
Instrument Panel, Vinyl, and
Other Plastic Surfaces................................5-86
Care of Safety Belts......................................5-87
Weatherstrips...............................................5-87
Washing Your Vehicle...................................5-87
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses.....................5-87Finish Care..................................................5-88
Windshield and Wiper Blades.........................5-88
Aluminum Wheels.........................................5-89
Tires...........................................................5-89
Sheet Metal Damage.....................................5-90
Finish Damage.............................................5-90
Underbody Maintenance................................5-90
Chemical Paint Spotting.................................5-90
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials..................5-91
Vehicle Identication......................................5-92
Vehicle Identication Number (VIN).................5-92
Service Parts Identication Label.....................5-92
Electrical System............................................5-93
Add-On Electrical Equipment..........................5-93
Headlamp Wiring..........................................5-93
Windshield Wiper Fuses................................5-93
Power Windows and Other Power Options.......5-94
Fuses and Circuit Breakers............................5-94
Instrument Panel Fuse Block..........................5-94
Underhood Fuse Block..................................5-96
Capacities and Specications..........................5-99
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-2

Page 251 of 394

Service
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to
be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer
for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts
and GM-trained and supported service people.
We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Accessories and Modications
When you add non-GM accessories to your vehicle they
can affect your vehicle’s performance and safety,
including such things as, airbags, braking, stability, ride
and handling, emissions systems, aerodynamics,
durability, and electronic systems like anti-lock brakes,
traction control and stability control. Some of these
accessories may even cause malfunction or damage not
covered by warranty.
GM Accessories are designed to complement and
function with other systems on your vehicle. Your GM
dealer can accessorize your vehicle using genuine
GM Accessories. When you go to your GM dealer and
ask for GM Accessories, you will know that GM-trained
and supported service technicians will perform the
work using genuine GM Accessories.
California Proposition 65 Warning
Most motor vehicles, including this one, contain and/or
emit chemicals known to the State of California to
cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm. Engine exhaust, many parts and systems
(including some inside the vehicle), many uids, and
some component wear by-products contain and/or
emit these chemicals.
5-3

Page:   < prev 1-10 ... 31-40 41-50 51-60 61-70 71-80 81-90 91-100 101-110 111-120 ... 120 next >