CHEVROLET PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM 1993 Service Manual

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 9

SERVICE PROCEDURES INDEX
page page
Automatic Transmission Oil Coolers .......... 23
Coolant ................................ 14
Coolant Recovery System (CRS) ............. 17
Cooling System Drain, Clean, Flush and Refill . . 15
Electric Fan Motor ........................ 22
Engine Thermostats ....................... 13
Fan Shroud ............................. 23 Fans
.................................. 21
Radiator Hoses .......................... 21
Radiator Pressure Cap .................... 18
Radiators ............................... 18
Testing System for Leaks .................. 17
Water Pumps ........................... 10
WATER PUMPS
A quick test to tell whether or not the pump is
working is to see if the heater warms properly. A
defective pump will not be able to circulate heated
coolant through the long heater hose. The water pump on all models can be replaced
without discharging the air conditioning system.
WATER PUMPÐ2.2/2.5L ENGINE
The 2.2/2.5L engine water pump has a diecast alu-
minum body and housing with a stamped steel impel-
ler. The 2.2/2.5L pump uses an O-ring gasket between
body and housing. The assembly bolts directly to the
block. Cylinder block to water pump sealing is provided
by a rubber O-ring.
REMOVAL (1) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling
System in this group. (2) If equipped with air conditioning, see Solid
Mount Accessory Bracket in (Standard Service Proce-
dures) Group 9, Engine: (a) Remove air conditioning compressor and gen-
erator from solid mount bracket and set aside.It is
not necessary to discharge the a/c system. (b) Remove solid mount bracket.
(3) If the vehicle is not equipped with air condi-
tioning, remove generator and mounting bracket. (4) Disconnect lower radiator and heater hoses
from pump. (5) Remove water pump attaching screws to engine
(Fig. 1). Turbo III has a spacer between the water
pump and block on the lower screw.
DISASSEMBLY (1) Remove three screws holding pulley to water
pump. (2) Remove nine screws holding water pump body
to housing. Remove the pump body from housing
(Fig. 2). (3) Clean gasket surfaces on water pump housing
and engine block. (4) Remove and discard O-ring gaskets and clean
O-ring grooves.
Fig. 2 Water Pump ComponentsÐ2.2/2.5L
Fig. 1 Water PumpÐ2.2/2.5L Engines
7 - 10 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

INSPECTION Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects: (1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Water leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
coolant traces below the vent hole. (3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the hous-
ing.
ASSEMBLY
Body assembly and housing are serviced as separate
components. (1) Install new O-ring gasket in body O-ring groove.
(2) Assemble pump body to housing and tighten nine
screws to 12 N Im (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement. (4) Position water pump pulley to water pump.In-
stall three screws and tighten to 30 N Im (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Position new O-ring in housing to block O-ring
groove.
INSTALLATION (1) On Turbo III engines install the coolant deflector
into the block before installing pump on engine (Fig. 3).
Install spacer between the pump and block for
Turbo III only before tightening pump to speci-
fications. Tighten three top screws (Fig. 1) to 28 N Im
(250 in. lbs.) and lower screw to 68 N Im (50 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install bypass/heater hose and lower radiator
hose. (3) Install generator and air conditioning compres-
sor bracket(s). For solid mount bracket see standard
service procedures in Group 9 Engine. (4) Install generator and air conditioning compres-
sor. (5) Refill cooling system. See
Refilling Cooling
System. (6) Install drive belt, See Accessory Drive Belts,
this Group.
WATER PUMPÐ3.0L ENGINE
The 3.0L pump bolts directly to the engine block,
using a gasket for pump to block sealing (Fig. 4). The
pump is serviced as a unit. The water pump is driven by the timing belt. See
Timing System in Group 9, Engine for component re-
moval providing access to water pump.
REMOVAL (1) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cool-
ing System in this group. (2) Remove mounting bolts.
(3) Separate pump from water inlet pipe (Figs. 4
and 5) and remove.
INSPECTION Replace the water pump if it has any of the follow-
ing defects.
Fig. 4 Water PumpÐ3.0L Engine
Fig. 5 Water Pump Inspection
Fig. 3 Coolant DeflectorÐTurbo III
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 11

(1) Damage or cracks on the pump body.
(2) Coolant leaks, if the shaft seal is leaking, evi-
dent by traces of coolant leaks from vent hole A in
(Fig. 5). (3) Impeller rubs inside of pump.
(4) Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.
INSTALLATION (1) Clean all gasket and O-ring surfaces on pump
and water pipe inlet tube. (2) Install new O-ring on water inlet pipe (Fig. 6).
Wet the O-ring with water to facilitate assembly.
CAUTION: Keep the O-ring free of oil or grease.
(3) Install new gasket on water pump and install
pump inlet opening over water pipe, press assembly
to cause water pipe insertion into pump housing. (4) Install pump to block mounting bolts and
tighten to 27 N Im (20 ft. lbs.).
(5) See Timing System in Engine, Group 9 and in-
stall timing belt. Reassemble engine. (6) Fill cooling system. See Refilling Cooling Sys-
tem.
WATER PUMPÐ3.3L AND 3.8L ENGINES
The pump has a die cast aluminum body and a
stamped steel impeller. It bolts directly to the chain
case cover, using an O-ring for sealing. It is driven
by the back surface of the Poly-V Drive Belt.
REMOVAL (1) Drain Cooling System. Refer to Draining Cool-
ing System in this group. (2) Remove Poly V Drive Belt.
(3) Remove right front lower fender shield.
(4) Remove pump pulley bolts and remove pulley.
(5) Remove pump mounting screws (Fig. 7). Re-
move pump. (6) Remove and discard O-ring seal. (7) Clean O-ring groove and O-ring surfaces on
pump and chain case cover. Take care not to scratch
or gouge sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Replace the water pump if it has any of the follow-
ing defects. (1) Damage or cracks on the pump body.
(2) Coolant leaks; if the seal is leaking, evident by
traces of coolant leaks from vent hole. (3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or chain-
case cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring in O-ring groove (Fig. 8).
(2) Install pump to chain case cover. Torque screws
to 12 N Im (105 in. lbs.).
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement. (4) Position pulley on pump. Install screws and
torque to 30 N Im (250 in. lbs.).
Fig. 6 Water Pipe O-Ring
Fig. 7 Water PumpÐ3.3L and 3.8L Engines
Fig. 8 Water Pump Body
7 - 12 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

(5) Install drive belt. See Accessory Drive Belts
this group. (6) Install right front lower fender shield.
(7) Refill Cooling System. See Refilling Cooling
System in this section.
ENGINE THERMOSTATS
The 2.2 and 2.5L engine thermostats are located on
the front of the engine (radiator side) in the water
box which is part of the cylinder head construction
(Fig. 9). Turbo III thermostat is located in the water
box located on the driver side of the cylinder head
(Fig. 10). These thermostats do not have an air bleed notch.
The 3.0L engine thermostat is located in a water
box, formed in the timing belt end of the intake man-
ifold. This thermostat has an air bleed valve, located
in the thermostat flange (Fig. 11). The 3.3/3.8L engine thermostat is located in a wa-
ter box, formed in the drive belt side of the intake
manifold (Fig. 13).
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed
to provide the fastest warm up possible by prevent-
ing leakage through them and to guarantee a mini-
mum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC
(192 to 199ÉF). They also automatically reach wide
open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as
temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator,
fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
OPERATION AND TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to
a predetermined temperature. The wax expands
enough to overcome the closing spring and water
pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Cool-
ant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to
fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat
with a screwdriver. The open too soon type failure mode is included in
the onboard diagnosis. The check engine light will
not be lit by an open too soon condition. If it has
failed open, code 17 will be set. Do not change a ther-
mostat for lack of heat by gauge or heater perfor-
mance, unless code 17 is present, see diagnosis for
other probable causes. Failing shut is the normal
long term mode of failure, and normally, only on
high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will
indicate this, Refer to diagnosis in this section.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system down to thermostat level
or below. (2) Remove thermostat housing bolts and housing
(Figs. 9, 10, 11 and 13). (3) Remove thermostat, discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATIONÐ2.2/2.5L AND TURBO III ENGINES
Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on wa-
ter box surface, center thermostat in water box on
gasket. Place housing over gasket and thermostat,
making sure thermostat is in the thermostat hous-
ing. Bolt housing to water box (Figs. 9 and 10).
Tighten bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.). Refill cooling
system (see Refilling System ).
INSTALLATIONÐ3.0L ENGINE
Center thermostat in water box pocket. Check that
the flange is seated correctly in the countersunk por-
tion of the intake manifold water box (Figs. 11 and
12). Install new gasket on water box. Install housing
over gasket and thermostat and tighten bolts to 12
N Im (133 in. lbs. torque).
Fig. 9 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐ2.2/
2.5L Engine
Fig. 10 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐTurbo III
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 13

INSTALLATIONÐ3.3L AND 3.8L ENGINE
Place a new gasket (dipped in water) on the water
box surface, center thermostat into opening in the in-
take manifold. Place housing over gasket and ther-
mostat, making sure thermostat is in recess provided
(Fig. 13). Bolt housing to intake manifold, tighten
bolts to 28 N Im (250 in. lbs.). Refill cooling system
(see Refilling System ).
COOLANT
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves. Then
carry this heat to the radiator where the tube/fin as-
semblies of these components can give it up to the
air.
PERFORMANCE
Performance is measurable. For heat transfer pure
water excels (Formul a = 1 btu per minute for each
degree of temperature rise for each pound of water).
This formula is altered when necessary additives to
control boiling, freezing, and corrosion are added as
follows:
² Pure Water (1 btu) boils at 100ÉC (212ÉF) and
freezes at 0ÉC (32ÉF).
² 100 Percent Glycol (.7 btu) can cause a hot engine
and detonation and will raise the freeze point to 22ÉC
(-8ÉF).
² 50/50 Glycol and Water (.82 btu) is the recom-
mended combination that provides a freeze point of
-37ÉC(-35ÉF).The radiator, water pump, engine water
jacket, radiator pressure cap, thermostat, tempera-
ture gauge, sending unit and heater are all designed
for 50/50 glycol. Where required, a 56 percent glycol and 44 percent
water mixture will provide a freeze point of-59ÉC
(-50ÉF).
CAUTION: Richer mixtures cannot be measured
with field equipment which can lead to problems
associated with 100 percent glycol.
SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder heads, intake mani-
folds, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Mopar Antifreeze, Prestone II, Peak or
antifreeze containing Alugard 340-2, or their equiva-
lent are recommended for best engine cooling with-
out corrosion. When mixed only to a freeze point of
Fig. 11 Thermostat, Housing, and Water BoxÐ3.0L Engine
Fig. 12 Thermostat InstalledÐ3.0L Engine
Fig. 13 Thermostat, Housing and WaterboxÐ3.3Land 3.8L Engine
7 - 14 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

-37ÉC (-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed solution.
SERVICE
Coolant should be changed at 52,500 miles or three
years, whichever occurs first, then every two years or
30,000 miles.
ROUTINE LEVEL CHECK
Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant
level inspections. The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual
method for determining the coolant level without re-
moving the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the
engine idling and warmed up to normal operating
temperature, that the level of the coolant in the reserve
tank (Figs. 5 and 6) is between the minimum and
maximum marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
The radiator cap should not be removed. When
additional coolant is needed to maintain this level, it
should be added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only
50/50 concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze
and water.
SERVICE COOLANT LEVEL
The cooling system is closed and designed to main-
tain coolant level to the top of the radiator. When servicing requires a coolant level check in the
radiator, the engine must be offand notunder pres-
sure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the radiator
drain cock while observing the Coolant Recovery Sys-
tem (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the CRS tank should
drop slightly. Then remove the radiator cap. The radia-
tor should be full to the top. If not, and the coolant level
in the CRS tank is at the MIN mark there is a air leak
in the CRS system. Check hose or hose connections to
the CRS tank, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap
seal to the radiator filler neck for leaks.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equal-
ize in both tanks with engine off. With engine at
running operating temperature the high pressure inlet
tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops.
If this level drops below the top of the transmission oil
cooler, air will be sucked into the water pump:
² Transmission oil will become hotter.
² High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
² Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow through
the heater.
² Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also cause the
same problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gather-
ing under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will
be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS tank by
thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the
atmosphere in the CRS tank and is replaced with solid
coolant on cool down.
COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN, CLEAN, FLUSH AND
REFILL
Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at the
mileage or time intervals specified in the Maintenance
Schedule in this Group. If the solution is dirty or rusty
or contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean
and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Care
should be taken in disposing of the used engine coolant
from your vehicle. Check governmental regulations for
disposal of used engine coolant.
DRAINING
To drain cooling system move temperature selector
for heater to full heat with engine running (to provide
vacuum for actuation). Without removing radiator
pressure cap and with system not under pres-
sure, Shut engine off and open draincock. The coolant
reserve tank (Fig. 5) should empty first, then remove
radiator pressure cap. (if not, see Testing Cooling
System for leaks). To vent 2.2/2.5L engines remove the
plug above thermostat housing (Fig. 1). For Turbo III
engines remove coolant temperature sensor in the
thermostat housing (Fig. 2). For 3.3L /3.8L engine
remove the engine temperature sending unit (Fig. 3).
Removal of a plug or other component is required
because the thermostat has no air vent and prevents
air flow through it. This allows the coolant to drain
from the engine block.
Fig. 1 Thermostat Housing Drain/Fill PlugÐ2.2/2.5L Engines
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15

CLEANING
Drain cooling system (see: Draining Cooling Sys-
tem ) and refill with clean water (see: Refilling
Cooling System ). Run engine with radiator cap in-
stalled until upper radiator hose is hot. Stop engine
and drain water from system. If water is dirty, fill,
run and drain system again until water runs clear.
REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forc-
ing of water through the cooling system, using air
pressure in a direction opposite to that of the normal
flow of water. This is only necessary with dirty sys-
tems and evidence of partial plugging.
RADIATOR Drain cooling system and remove radiator hoses
from engine. Install suitable flushing gun in radiator
lower hose. Fill radiator with clean water and turn
on air in short blasts. CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not ex-
ceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may re-
sult. Continue this procedure until water runs clear.
ENGINE
Drain radiator (see: Draining Cooling System )
and remove hoses from radiator. Remove engine
thermostat and reinstall thermostat housing. Install
suitable flushing gun to thermostat housing hose.
Turn on water, and when engine is filled, turn on
air, but no higher than 138 kPa (20 psi) in short
blasts. Allow engine to fill between blasts of air.
Continue this procedure until water runs clean. In-
stall thermostat using a new housing gasket. Fill
cooling system (See Refilling Cooling System ).
CHEMICAL CLEANING
One type of corrosion encountered with aluminum
cylinder heads is aluminum hydroxide deposits. Cor-
rosion products are carried to the radiator and depos-
ited when cooled off. They appear as dark grey when
wet and white when dry. This corrosion can be re-
moved with a two part cleaner (oxalic acid and neu-
tralizer) available in auto parts outlets. Follow
manufacturers directions for use.
REFILLING
First clean system to remove old glycol, see Cooling
System Cleaning. Fill system using antifreeze described in Coolant
section. Fill 50 percent of capacity with 100 percent
glycol. Then complete filling system with water. The
2.2/2.5L engines require venting by removal of the
plug on top of the water box (Fig. 1). Turbo III en-
gines require venting by removing the coolant tem-
perature sensor on top of the thermostat housing
(Fig. 2). The 3.3/3.8L Engines require removal of the
Engine Temperature Sending Unit on the front of
the cylinder head (Fig. 3). The thermostat in these
engines do not allow air flow through them. When
coolant reaches the vent holes;
² Install vent plug and tighten to 20 N Im (15 ft. lbs.)
for 2.2/2.5L Engines.
² Install Coolant Temperature Sensor and tighten to
27 N Im (20 ft. lbs.) for Turbo III Engine.
² Install Engine Temperature Sending Unit and
tighten to 7 N Im (60 in. lbs.) for 3.3/3.8L Engines.
Continue filling system until full, this provides bet-
ter heater performance. Be careful not to spill
coolant on drive belts or the generator. Fill coolant reserve system to at least the MAX
mark with 50/50 solution. It may be necessary to add
coolant to the reserve tank to maintain coolant level
between the MAX and MIN mark after three or four
warm-up, cool down cycles and trapped air has been
removed.
Fig. 2 Coolant Temperature SensorÐTurbo III Drain/Fill
Fig. 3 Engine Temperature Sending UnitÐ3.3L and 3.8L Drain/Fill
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEM Ä

TESTING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
With engine not running, wipe the radiator filler
neck sealing seat clean. The radiator should be full. Attach a radiator pressure tester to the radiator, as
shown in (Fig. 4) and apply 104 kPa (15 psi) pres-
sure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2 min-
utes inspect all points for external leaks. All hoses, radiator and heater, should be moved
while at 15 psi since some leaks occur while driving
due to engine rock, etc.
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start en-
gine and run the engine to normal operating temper-
ature in order to open the thermostat and allow the
coolant to expand. Re-attach the tester. If the needle
on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak,
usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH TOOL IN PLACE PRESSURE
BUILDS UP FAST. ANY EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF
PRESSURE BUILT UP BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE
OPERATION MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE
PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO
EXCEED 138 KPA (20 PSI).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race
the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of
coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may
indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block
or cylinder head. There may be internal leaks which can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dip-stick. If water glob-
ules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal
leak, the engine must be disassembled for repair.
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM (CRS)
This system works in conjunction with the radiator
pressure cap to utilize thermal expansion and con-
traction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of
trapped air. It provides a volume for expansion and
contraction, provides a convenient and safe method
for checking coolant level and adjusting level at at-
mospheric pressure without removing the radiator
pressure cap. It also provides some reserve coolant to
cover minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
All vehicles are equipped with this system (Figs. 5
and 6).
See Coolant Level Check Service, Deaeration and
Pressure Cap sections for operation and service. Ve-
hicles equipped with the electric monitor system use
a level sensor in the CRS tank, see Group 8E Elec-
trical for service.
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing Cooling System
Fig. 5 Coolant Recovery System Typical
Fig. 6 Coolant Recovery SystemÐAC-AY Models
Ä COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 17

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Radiators are equipped with a pressure cap which
releases pressure at some point within a range of
97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) (Fig. 7). The system will operate at higher than atmospheric
pressure which raises the coolant boiling point allow-
ing increased radiator cooling capacity. There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap that
allows a small coolant flow to the CRS tank. If valve is
stuck shut, the radiator hoses will be collapsed
on cool down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 7) to
ensure proper sealing when boiling point is
reached.
There is also a gasket in the cap to seal to the top of
the filler neck so that vacuum can be maintained for
drawing coolant back into the radiator from the coolant
reserve system tank.
RADIATOR CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL PRES- SURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure relief
can be checked by removing the overflow hose at the
radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 7). Attach the Radiator
Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and pump air
into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gasket should
relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold pressure at
55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS
HOT AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
time except for the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust antifreeze freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new antifreeze.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE) BE-
FORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST STOP IS
RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAPS
Dip the pressure cap in water, clean any deposits off
the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
Radiator Pressure Tool. Working the plunger, bring the
pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the
pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa
(14 psi) replace cap. See CAUTION
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned on
Radiator Pressure Tool, but will not hold pressure or
vacuum when positioned on the radiator. Inspect the
radiator filler neck and cap top gasket for irregularities
that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
CAUTION: Radiator Pressure Tool is very sensitive to
small air leaks which will not cause cooling system
problems. A pressure cap that does not have a
history of coolant loss should not be replaced just
because it leaks slowly when tested with this tool.
Add water to the tool. Turn tool upside down and
recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap is bad.
INSPECTION
Hold the cap in hand, right side up(Fig. 7). The
vent valve at the bottom of the cap should open. If the
rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from
opening, replace the cap. Hold the cleaned cap in hand upside down.If any
light can be seen between vent valve and rubber
gasket, replace cap. Do not use a replacement cap
that has a spring to hold the vent shut. Replacement cap must be of the type designed for
coolant reserve systems. This design assures coolant
return to radiator.
RADIATORS
The radiators are crossflow types (horizontal tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength as
well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep the
engine satisfactorily cooled.
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass
are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
Fig. 7 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
7 - 18 COOLING SYSTEM Ä