boot CHRYSLER VOYAGER 1996 Owner's Manual

(12) Inspect caliper piston for pitting, scratches, or
any physical damage. Replace piston if there is evi-
dence of scratches, pitting or physical damage.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Excessive vise pressure will cause bore
distortion and binding of piston.
(1) Clamp caliper in a vise (with protective caps
installed on jaws of vise).
(2) Dip new piston seal in clean brake fluid and
install in the groove of the caliper bore. Seal should
be positioned at one area in groove and gently
worked around the groove (Fig. 190), using only your
fingers until properly seated.NEVER USE AN OLD
PISTON SEAL.Be sure that fingers are clean and
seal is not twisted or rolled (Fig. 190).
(3) Coat new piston boot with clean brake fluid
leaving a generous amount inside boot.
(4) Position dust boot over piston after coating
with brake fluid.
CAUTION: Force must be applied to the piston uni-
formly to avoid cocking and binding of the piston in
the bore of the caliper.
(5) Install piston into caliper bore pushing it past
the piston seal until it bottoms in the caliper bore
(Fig. 191).
(6) Position dust boot into the counterbore of the
caliper assembly piston bore.
(7) Using a hammer and Installer Piston Caliper
Boot, Special Tool C-4689 and Handle, Special ToolC-4171, drive boot into counterbore of the caliper
(Fig. 192).
(8) Install guide pin sleeves and bushings. See
Install Guide Pin Bushings section in the caliper dis-
assembly section of this manual.
(9) Install brake pads. See Installing Brake Pads
in the Brake Pad Service Procedures section of this
manual.
(10) Before installing caliper assembly on vehicle,
inspect brake rotor. If any conditions as described in
Checking Brake Rotor for Runout and Thickness are
present the rotor, must be replaced or refaced. If the
rotor does not require any servicing, install caliper
assembly.
(11) Install brake hose onto caliper using banjo
bolt. Torque the brake hose to caliper assembly banjo
bolt to 33 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).New seal washers
Fig. 189 Honing Brake Caliper Piston Bore
Fig. 190 Installing New Piston Seal In Caliper
Fig. 191 Installing Piston Into Caliper Bore
NSBRAKES 5 - 75
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

MUST always be used when installing brake
hose to caliper.
(12) Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake
System).
WHEEL CYLINDER REAR DRUM BRAKE
DISASSEMBLE
To disassemble the wheel cylinders, proceed as fol-
lows:
(1) Pry boots away from cylinders and remove (Fig.
193).
(2) PressINon one piston to force out opposite
piston, cup and spring (Fig. 193). Then using a soft
tool such as a dowel rod, press out the cup and piston
that remain in the wheel cylinder.
(3) Wash wheel cylinder, pistons, and spring (Fig.
193) in clean brake fluid or alcohol;(DO NOT USE
ANY PETROLEUM BASE SOLVENTS)clean thor-
oughly and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect cyl-
inder bore and piston for scoring and pitting. (Do not
use a rag as lint from the rag will stick to bore sur-
faces.)
(4) Wheel cylinder bores and pistons that are
badly scored or pitted should be replaced. Cylinder
walls that have light scratches, or show signs of cor-
rosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth,
using a circular motion. Black stains on the cylinder
walls are caused by piston cups and will not impair
operation of cylinder.
ASSEMBLE
Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the
wheel cylinders, dip them in clean brake fluid. If the
boots are deteriorated, cracked or do not fit tightly on
the pistons or the cylinder casting, install new boots.
(1) Coat cylinder bore with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lightly coat the sealing lip and outer surfaces
of the wheel cylinder cups withonly Mopar Pro-
tect-A-Cup Lubricant p/n 04883068 and no sub-
stitute.
(3) Install expansion spring with cup expanders in
cylinder. Install cups in each end of cylinder with
open end of cups facing each other (Fig. 193).
(4) Install piston in each end of cylinder having
the flat face of each piston contacting the flat face of
each cup, already installed (Fig. 193).
(5) Install a boot over each end of cylinder (Fig.
193).Be careful not to damage boot during
installation.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD LINING INSPECTION
If a visual inspection does not adequately deter-
mine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary. To check the amount of lining wear,
remove the wheel and tire assemblies, and the cali-
pers.
Remove the shoe and lining assemblies. (See Brake
Shoe Removal).
Combined shoe and lining thickness should be
measured at the thinnest part of the brake shoe
assembly.
When a shoe and lining assembly is worn to a
thickness of approximately 7.95 mm (0.313 inch) it
should be replaced.
Replacebothshoe assemblies (inboard and out-
board) on the front wheels. It is also necessary that
bothfront wheel brake shoe assembly sets be
replaced, whenever shoe assemblies on either side of
the vehicle require replacement.
If a shoe assembly does not require replacement,
reinstall it, making sure each shoe assembly is
returned to its original position. (See Brake Shoe
Installation).
REAR DISC BRAKES
BRAKE PAD LINING WEAR
If a visual inspection does not adequately deter-
mine the condition of the lining, a physical check will
be necessary. To check the amount of lining wear,
remove the wheel and tire assemblies, and the cali-
pers.
Remove the rear disc brake shoes. Refer to Rear
Disc Brake Shoe Removal in the Removal And Instal-
Fig. 192 Installing Dust Boot In Caliper Counterbore
5 - 76 BRAKESNS
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

lation section in this group of the service manual for
the required procedure.
The combined brake shoe and lining material
thickness should be measured at the thinnest part of
the assembly.
When a set of brake shoes are worn to a total
thickness of approximately 7.0 mm (9/32 inch) they
should be replaced.
Replacebothbrake shoe assemblies (inboard and
outboard). It is necessary thatbothrear wheel sets
be replaced whenever brake shoe assemblies on
either side are replaced.
If the brake shoe assemblies do not require
replacement, reinstall, the assemblies making sure
each brake shoe is returned to the original position.
Refer to Rear Disc Brake Shoe Installation in the
Removal And Installation section in this group of the
service manual for the required procedure.
CALIPER INSPECTION
Check for brake fluid leaks in and around boot
area and inboard lining, and for any ruptures, brit-
tleness or damage to the piston dust boot. If the boot
is damaged, or a fluid leak is visible, disassemble cal-
iper assembly and install a new seal and boot, and
piston if scored. Refer to Rear Disc Brake Caliper in
the Disassembly And Assembly Section in this group
of the service manual.
Check the guide pin dust boots to determine if they
are in good condition. Replace if they are damaged,
dry, or found to be brittle. Refer to Rear Disc Brake
Caliper in the Disassembly And Assembly Section in
this group of the service manual.
REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOE LINING INSPECTION
(1) Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the
vehicle
(2) Remove the rear brake adjusting hole cover
plug (Fig. 194).
(3) Insert a thin screwdriver into brake adjusting
hole to hold the adjusting lever away from the
notches on the adjusting screw star wheel.
(4) Insert Tool C-3784 into brake adjusting hole
and engage notches of brake adjusting screw star
wheel. Release brake by prying down with adjusting
tool.
(5) Remove the rear brake drum from the rear
hub/bearing assembly.
(6) Inspect brake lining for wear, shoe alignment,
and or contamination from grease or brake fluid.
Fig. 193 Rear Wheel Cylinder (Exploded View)
Fig. 194 Brake Adjustment Hole Rubber Plug
NSBRAKES 5 - 77
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)

REAR DRUM BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER
With brake drums removed, inspect the wheel cyl-
inder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. Visu-
ally check the boots for cuts, tears, or heat cracks. If
any of these conditions exist, the wheel cylinders
should be completely cleaned, inspected and new
parts installed.
If a wheel cylinder is leaking and the brake lining
material is saturated with brake fluid, the brake
shoes must be replaced.
BRAKE HOSE AND BRAKE LINES INSPECTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle. Inspection of brake hoses
should be performed whenever the brake system is
serviced and every 7,500 miles or 12 months, which-
ever comes first (every engine oil change). Inspect
hydraulic brake hoses for surface cracking, scuffing,
or worn spots. If the fabric casing of the rubber hose
becomes exposed due to cracks or abrasions in the
rubber hose cover, the hose should be replaced imme-
diately. Eventual deterioration of the hose can take
place with possible burst failure. Faulty installation
can cause twisting, resulting in wheel, tire, or chassis
interference.
The steel brake tubing should be inspected period-
ically for evidence of physical damage or contact with
moving or hot components.
The flexible brake tube sections used on this vehi-
cle in the primary and secondary tubes from the
master cylinder to the ABS hydraulic control unit
connections and the chassis brake tubes between the
hydraulic control unit and the proportioning valve
must also be inspected. This flexible tubing must be
inspected for kinks, fraying and its contact with
other components of the vehicle or contact with the
body of the vehicle.
REAR WHEEL HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
The rear hub and bearing assembly is designed for
the life of the vehicle and should require no mainte-
nance. The following procedure may be used for eval-
uation of bearing condition.
With wheel and brake drum removed, rotate
flanged outer ring of hub. Excessive roughness, lat-
eral play or resistance to rotation may indicate dirt
intrusion or bearing failure. If the rear wheel bear-
ings exhibit these conditions during inspection, the
hub and bearing assembly should be replaced.
Damaged bearing seals and resulting excessive
grease loss may also require bearing replacement.
Moderate grease loss from bearing is considered nor-
mal and should not require replacement of the hub
and bearing assembly.
ADJUSTMENTS
STOP LAMP SWITCH
(1) Remove stop lamp switch from its bracket by
rotating it approximately 30É in a counter-clockwise
direction.
(2) Disconnect wiring harness connector from stop
lamp switch.
(3) Hold stop lamp switch firmly in one hand.
Then using other hand, pull outward on the plunger
of the stop lamp switch until it has ratcheted out to
its fully extended position.
(4) Install the stop lamp switch into the bracket
using the following procedure. Depress the brake
pedal as far down as possible. Then while keeping
the brake pedal depressed, install the stop lamp
switch into the bracket by aligning index key on
switch with slot at top of square hole in mounting
bracket. When switch is fully installed in the square
hole of the bracket, rotate switch clockwise approxi-
mately 30É to lock the switch into the bracket.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when pulling
back on brake pedal to adjust the stop lamp switch.
If too much force is used, damage to the vacuum
booster, stop lamp switch or striker (Fig. 195) can
result.
(5) Connect the wiring harness connector to the
stop lamp switch.
(6) Gently pull back on brake pedal until the pedal
stops moving. This will cause the switch plunger
(Fig. 195) to ratchet backward to the correct position.
Fig. 195 Stop Light Switch Location In Vehicle
5 - 78 BRAKESNS
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)

SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLSÐBASE BRAKES
Fittings, Brake Proportioning Valve Testing 6833
Tubes, Master Cylinder Bleeding 6920
Adapter, Master Cylinder Pressure Bleed Cap 6921
Dial Indicator, C-3339
Gauge, Brake Safe-Set
Gauge Set, C-4007±A
Fig. 204 Handle, Universal C±4171
Fig. 205 Installer, Dust Boot C-4689
5 - 84 BRAKESNS

Upon application of the brake pedal, the lever
should move down, turning the star wheel. A definite
rotation of the star wheel should be seen if the auto-
matic adjuster is working properly. If no rotation of
the star wheel is observed when the pedal is consec-
utively pressed and released, the respective drum
will have to be removed and the adjuster serviced.
MASTER CYLINDER FLUID LEVEL CHECK
The master cylinder used in this vehicle has the
same fluid level markings as the master cylinders
used in other brake systems on the side of the fluid
resevoir. Refer to the Master Cylinder Fluid Level
Check in the Diagnosis and Testing section of group
5 for more information
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FRONT PARK BRAKE CABLE AND LEVER
ASSEMBLY-RHD&LHD VEHICLES
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a
hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Mainte-
nance group of this service manual.
(2) Remove the intermediate and left rear park
brake cable from the park brake cable equalizer (Fig.
2).
(3) Remove the front park cable housing retainer
from body outrigger bracket (Fig. 3). Cable is remov-
able by sliding a 14 mm box wrench over cable
retainer and compressing the three retaining fingers.
Alternate method is to use an aircraft type hose
clamp and screwdriver.(4) Remove the two (2) retaining nuts and (2)
retaining bolts from the bottom of the parking brake/
gearshift lever bracket.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Carefully lift the base of the gearshift boot
from the gearshift console to access the screws (Fig.
4).
Fig. 2 Park Brake Cable Attachment To Equalizer
Fig. 3 Front Park Brake Cable Attachment To Body
Fig. 4 Console and Gearshift boot
5 - 2 BRAKESNS/GS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(7) Remove the four (4) retaining screws (Fig. 5).
(8) Pull the parking brake lever to the ªupº posi-
tion and lift the console (Fig. 5).
(9) Tilt the base of the gearshift boot and carefully
push through the opening in the console while lifting.
(10) Remove the three (3) nuts at the base of the
parking brake assembly.
(11) Release the parking brake assembly and lift
assembly off of the parking brake/gearshift lever
bracket.
(12) Unhook the loop on the end of the parking
brake from the equalizer bar on the parking brake/
gearshift lever bracket.
(13) Compress the parking brake cable retainer by
sliding a 14 mm box wrench over the cable retainer
and compress the three (3) retaining fingers.
(14) Remove the three (3) screws from the parking
brake grommet on the floor pan of the passenger
compartment.
(15) Lift the parking brake /gearshift lever bracket
and slide the parking brake cable out.
(16) Pull the cable through the floor pan from
inside the vehicle.
INSTALL
(1) Pass park brake cable assembly through hole
in floor pan from the inside of the vehicle.
(2) Pass cable strand button through the hole in
the pedal assembly bracket.
(3) Install parking brake cable to the brake/gear-
shift lever bracket by lifting the bracket and sliding
the cable in.
(4) Install the three (3) screws to the parking
brake grommet on the floor pan of the passenger
compartment.
(5) Compress the parking brake cable retainer by
sliding a 14 mm box wrench over the cable retainer
and compress the three (3) retaining fingers.
(6) Hook the loop on the end of the parking brake
to the equalizer bar on the parking brake/gearshift
lever bracket.
(7) Attach the parking brake assembly and place
assembly on the parking brake/gearshift lever
bracket.
(8) Install the three (3) nuts at the base of the
parking brake assembly.
(9) Pull the parking brake lever to the ªupº posi-
tion.
(10) Place the console over the parking brake/gear-
shift lever and tilt the base of the gearshift boot and
carefully pull it through the opening in the console.
(11) Install the four (4) retaining screws (Fig. 5).
(12) Carefully press the three (3) clips at the base
of the gearshift boot into the slots on the gearshift
console.
(13) Raise the vehicle.
(14) install the two (2) retaining nuts and (2)
retaining bolts to the bottom of the parking brake/
gearshift lever bracket.
(15) Install the front park cable housing retainer
to the body outrigger bracket (Fig. 3). Cable is
installed by sliding a 14 mm box wrench over cable
retainer and compressing the three retaining fingers.
Alternate method is to use an aircraft type hose
clamp and screwdriver.
(16) Install the intermediate and left rear park
brake cable to the park brake cable equalizer (Fig. 2).
(17) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 5 Console Retaining Screws
NS/GSBRAKES 5 - 3
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

Clean Spark Plug cables with a cloth moistened
with a non-flammable solvent. Wipe the cables dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
SPARK PLUG CABLESÐ3.3/3.8L
The spark plug cables and spark plug boots are
made from high temperature silicone materials. The
spark plug boots utilize metal heat shields for ther-
mal protection from the exhaust manifold. The heat
shields slide over the spark plug boots. The notches
on the heat shields ensure the spark plug boot and
shield twist together during spark plug boot removal.
They also identify proper heat shield installation on
the boot for service.Refer to 3.3/3.8L Spark Plug
Cable removal and installation.All spark plug
cable leads are properly identified with cylinder num-
bers. The inside of the spark plug boot is coated with
a special high temperature silicone grease for greater
sealing and to minimize boot bonding to the spark
plug insulator. The convoluted tubing on the rear
plug cables are made of a high temperature plastic
material. Under normal driving conditions, the spark
plug cables have a recommended service life of a
100,000 miles. The spark plugs have a recommended
service life of 75,000 miles for severe driving condi-
tions per schedule B in this manual.
The spark plug heat shield can be reused if an
ignition cable is replaced due to failure. Never reuse
heat shield's that have heat shield anti-twist, side or
spark plug attachment tabs bent or missing. Ensure
that the heat shield is properly attached to the spark
plug to avoid RFI problems. The bottom of the spark
plug heat shield must make contact with the spark
plug hex.
The front ignition cables must not make contact
with the oil dip stick tube and #5 cable must not
touch the coil mounting bolt to avoid abrasion/dielec-
tric failures.
IGNITION COIL
WARNING: THE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM GEN-
ERATES APPROXIMATELY 40,000 VOLTS. PER-
SONAL INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT
WITH THIS SYSTEM.
The ignition coil assembly consists of 3 indepen-
dent coils molded together (Fig. 4). The coil assembly
is mounted on the intake manifold. Spark plug cables
route to each cylinder from the coil. The coil fires two
spark plugs every power stroke. One plug is the cyl-
inder under compression, the other cylinder fires on
the exhaust stroke. The Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) determines which of the coils to charge and
fire at the correct time.
Coil 1 fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil 2 fires cylinders
2 and 5, coil 3 fires cylinders 3 and 6.The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay provides battery
voltage to the ignition coil. The PCM provides a
ground contact (circuit) for energizing the coil. When
the PCM breaks the contact, the energy in the coil
primary transfers to the secondary causing the
spark. The PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it
does not receive the crankshaft position sensor and
camshaft position sensor inputs. Refer to Auto Shut-
down (ASD) RelayÐPCM Output, in this section for
relay operation.
AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN (ASD) RELAY
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) operates
the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay by switching the
ground path on and off.
The ASD relay supplies battery voltage to the fuel
injectors, electronic ignition coil and the heating ele-
ments in the oxygen sensors.
The PCM controls the relay by switching the
ground path for the solenoid side of the relay on and
off. The PCM turns the ground path off when the
ignition switch is in the Off position unless the 02
Heater Monitor test is being run. Refer to Group 25,
On-Board Diagnostics. When the ignition switch is in
the On or Crank position, the PCM monitors the
crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sen-
sor signals to determine engine speed and ignition
timing (coil dwell). If the PCM does not receive the
crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sen-
sor signals when the ignition switch is in the Run
position, it will de-energize the ASD relay.
The ASD relay is located in the Power Distribution
Center (PDC). The PDC is located on the driver's
side inner fender well (Fig. 5). A label on the under-
side of the PDC cover identifies the relays and fuses
in the PDC.
Fig. 4 Ignition Coil Pack
8D - 4 IGNITION SYSTEMNS
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

NOTE: Over or under tightening effects knock sen-
sor performance, possibly causing improper spark
control.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COILÐ2.4/3.3/3.8L
ENGINES
WARNING: THE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEMS GEN-
ERATES APPROXIMATELY 40,000 VOLTS. PER-
SONAL INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT
WITH THIS SYSTEM.
The coil pack contains independent coils. Each coil
must be checked individually.
CAUTION: Spark plug wire damage may occur if
the spark plug is moved more than 1/4 inch away
from the engine ground.
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected any longer than 30 seconds or possi-
ble heat damage to catalytic converter will occur.
CAUTION: Test must be performed at idle and in
park only with the parking brake on.
Use a new spark plug and spark plug cable
for the following test.
(1) Insert a new spark plug into the new spark
plug boot. Ground the plug to the engine (Fig. 15).
Do not hold with your hand.
(2) Starting with coil insulator #1, remove it from
the DIS coil.(3) Plug the test spark plug cable onto #1 coil
tower. Make sure a good connection is made; there
should be a click sound.
(4) Crank the engine and look for spark across the
electrodes of the spark plug.
CAUTION: Always install the cable back on the coil
tower after testing to avoid damage to the coil and
catalytic converter.
(5) Repeat the above test for the remaining coils. If
there is no spark during all cylinder tests, proceed to
the Failure To Start Test.
(6) If one or more tests indicate irregular, weak, or
no spark, proceed to Check Coil Test.
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COILÐ3.0L
WARNING: APPLY PARKING BRAKE AND/OR
BLOCK THE WHEELS BEFORE PERFORMING ANY
TEST WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.
CAUTION: Spark plug cables may be damaged if
this test is performed with more than 1/4 inch clear-
ance between the cable and engine ground.
Remove the coil secondary cable from the distribu-
tor cap. Hold the end of cable about 6 mm (1/4-inch)
away from a good engine ground using non-conduc-
tive ignition pliers (Fig. 16). Crank the engine and
inspect for spark at the coil secondary cable.
There must be a constant spark at the coil second-
ary cable. If spark is not constant or there is no
spark, proceed to the failure to start test. If the
spark is constant, continue to crank engine and,
while slowly moving coil secondary cable away from
ground, look for arcing at the coil tower. If arcing
occurs at the tower, replace the coil.
If a constant spark is present and no arcing occurs
at the coil tower, the ignition system is producing the
necessary high secondary voltage. However, make
Fig. 15 Testing For Spark
Fig. 16 Checking for Spark
8D - 8 IGNITION SYSTEMNS
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SPARK PLUG CABLE SERVICEÐ2.4L
The cables insulate the spark plugs and covers the
top of the spark plug tube (Fig. 6). To remove the
cables, lightly grasp the top of the cable. Rotate the
insulator 90É and pull straight up. To replace the
cables, disconnect the cable from the ignition coil.
Ensure the #1 and #4 cables run under the #2
and #3 ignition coil towers. Keep #4 cable away
from the oil fill cap.
SPARK PLUG SERVICE
When replacing the spark plugs and spark plug
cables, route the cables correctly and secure them inthe appropriate retainers. Failure to route the cables
properly can cause the radio to reproduce ignition
noise, cross ignition of the spark plugs orshort cir-
cuit the cables to ground.
Never Wire Brush Spark Plugs.The spark plug
insulator tip is harder than the bristles of wire
brushes. Bristles of wire brushes can leave a conduc-
tive, metallic film on the insulator which could lead
to conductive deposits. Conductive deposits can cause
spark plug failure and engine misfire. Use a jewelers
file to remove deposits from the electrode gap or use
a spark plug cleaning machine to clean spark plugs.
REMOVAL
Always remove cables by grasping at the boot,
rotating the boot 1/2 turn, and pulling straight back
in a steady motion.
(1) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray com-
pressed air around the spark plug hole and the area
around the spark plug.
(2) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket
with a foam insert.
(3) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug
into the cylinder head by hand.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Install spark plug cables over spark plugs. A
click will be heard and felt when the cable properly
attaches to the spark plug.
IGNITION COILÐ2.4L
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove spark plug cables from coil (Fig. 7).
Always twist the coil boots to break the seal with the
coil and pull straight back on the boot.
(2) Remove ignition coil electrical connector.
(3) Remove ignition coil mounting bolts, throttle
cable bracket or clip.
(4) Remove ignition coil.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reverse the above procedure for installation.
Tighten mounting screws to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Transfer ignition cables to new coil pack. The
coil pack towers and cables are numbered with cylin-
der identification.
Fig. 5 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Fig. 6 Spark Plug Cables
8D - 18 IGNITION SYSTEMNS
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)