One DODGE RAM 1500 1998 2.G Workshop Manual

ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Install all component in their original loca-
tions.
(1) Lubricate all gears and differential bores with
differential lubricant.
(2) Install one set of pinion brake shoes into the
case bores.
NOTE: Brake shoes can be installed upside down,
but if install wrong pinion gear will not fit.
(3) Install side gear thrust washer, side gear and
spacer (Fig. 45).
(4) Install one set of pinion gears into the bores
next to the brake shoes, with the pinion shaft facing
up.
(5) Install other side gear and thrust washer.
(6) Install other set of pinion gears into the brake
shoes in the case.(7) Install other set of brake shoes onto the pinion
gears shafts (Fig. 46).
(8) Install differential cover and location screws.
(9) Installnewring gear bolts and tighten to 237
N´m (175 ft. lbs.).
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove differential case from the housing.
(2) Install Plug 8964 into the end of the case.
(3) Remove differental case bearings with Bearing
Splitter 1130 and Bridge 938 (Fig. 47).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install differenial case bearings with Installer
8965 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 48).
(2) Install differentail case into housing.
Fig. 45 SIDE GEAR AND SPACER
1 - SPACER
2 - SIDE SPACER
Fig. 46 PINION BRAKE SHOES
1 - BRAKE SHOES
2 - PINION GEARS
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 161
DIFFERENTIAL TRAC-RITE (Continued)

PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/
TONE RING
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are service in a
matched set. Never replace the ring gear/pinion
gear without replacing the other matching gear.
(1) Mark pinion flange and propeller shaft for
installation alignment.
(2) Disconnect propeller shaft from pinion flange
and remove propeller shaft.
(3) Remove differential from the housing.
(4) Place differential on Plug 8964. Drive exciter
ring off the differential case with a hammer and
punch (Fig. 49).
NOTE: Do not remove the exciter ring if it is not
being replaced.
(5) Place differential case in a vise with soft metal
jaw protectors
(6) Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential
case.
(7) Drive ring gear from differential case with a
soft hammer (Fig. 50).
(8) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 51) and remove pinion flange nut.
(9) Remove pinion flange from pinion with Pinion
Flange Puller 8992 (Fig. 52).
Fig. 47 DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARING
1 - BRIDGE
2 - SPLITTER
3 - BEARING
4 - PLUG
Fig. 48 DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
3 - BEARING
4 - INSTALLER
Fig. 49 EXCITER RING
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - PUNCH
4 - EXCITER RING
3 - 162 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS (Continued)

(10) Remove pinion gear from housing with Pinion
Driver 8977 and a hammer (Fig. 53).
NOTE: Thread the driver on the pinion shaft till it
bottoms out.
(11) Remove pinion seal with a slide hammer or
pry bar.(12) Remove front pinion bearing and discard bear-
ing.
CAUTION: Do not reuse front pinion bearing/cup.
(13) Remove collapsible spacer from the pinion
shaft.
Fig. 50 RING GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - HAMMER
Fig. 51 FLANGE WRENCH
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - FLANGE WRENCH
Fig. 52 PINION FLANGE PULLER
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - PULLER
Fig. 53 PINION DRIVER
1 - PINION SHAFT
2 - PINION DRIVER
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 163
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(14) Remove rear pinion bearing with Bearing
Splitter 1130 and a press (Fig. 54).
(15) Remove pinion depth shim from the pinion
gear shaft and record thickness of the shims.
(16) Remove front pinion bearing cup from the
housing with a punch and hammer, and discard cup.
CAUTION: Do not reuse front pinion bearing/cup.
(17) Remove rear pinion bearing cup from the
housing with a punch and hammer, if bearing is
going to be replaced.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new front pinion bearing cup (Fig. 55)
with Installer 8960 and Handle C-4171.(2) Install new rear pinion bearing cup (Fig. 56)
with Installer 8968 and Handle C-4171.
(3) Install pinion depth shim (Fig. 57) on the pin-
ion gear shaft.
Fig. 54 BEARING SPLITTER
1 - PINION BEARING
2 - SPLITTER
Fig. 55 FRONT PINION BEARING CUP
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 56 REAR PINION BEARING CUP
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 57 PINION DEPTH SHIM
1 - PINION DEPTH SHIM
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - 164 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(4) Install rear pinion bearing (Fig. 58) with
Installer D-389 and a press.
(5) Installnewcollapsible spacer (Fig. 59).
(6) Lubricate pinion and bearings.
(7) Install pinion into the housing and place front
pinion bearing onto the pinion shaft. Draw the pinionshaft into the front bearing with Installer 8981 (Fig.
60).
(8) Installnewpinion seal (Fig. 61) with Installer
8896 and Handle C-4171.
(9) Apply a light coat of teflon sealant to the pin-
ion flange splines.
(10) Hold pinion and lightly tap the pinion flange
onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.
(11) Install pinion flange washer andnewpinion
nut.
(12) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 62) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play
is taken up.
(13) Rotate pinion several times to seat bearings.
(14) Measure pinion rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 63). Tighten pinion nut in
small increments until pinion rotating torque is:
²New Pinion Bearings:1.7-2.8 N´m (15-25 in.
lbs.)
²Original Pinion Bearings:1.1-2.2 N´m (10-20
in. lbs.)
Fig. 58 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 59 COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
1 - COLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 60 PINION GEAR INSTALLER
1 - INSTALLER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
Fig. 61 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 165
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(15) Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion
rotating torque again.
(16) Position the ring gear on differential case and
start twonewring gear bolts.
(17) Install the rest of thenewring gear bolts and
tighten them alternately to seat the ring gear.
(18) Torque ring gear bolts to 237 N´m (175 ft.
lbs.).
(19) If exciter ring was removed, position differen-
tial assembly on differential Plug 8965 (Fig. 64) and
place exciter ring on the differential case.
(20) Install the exciter ring on the differential case
evenly with a hammer and brass punch (Fig. 65).Drive the ring down until it is seated against the
ring gear.
CAUTION: Do not damage exciter ring teeth during
installation.
Fig. 62 FLANGE WRENCH
1 - FLANGE WRENCH
2 - PINION FLANGE
Fig. 63 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 64 EXCITER RING
1 - EXCITER RING
2 - RING GEAR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL PLUG
4 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
Fig. 65 EXCITER RING INSTALLATION
1 - EXCITER RING
2 - PUNSH
3 - RING GEAR
3 - 166 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(21) Install differential in housing and verify gear
backlash and gear contact pattern.
(22) Measure final rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench. The final pinion rotating
torque plus differential case bearing preload is:
²New Bearings:3.4-5.6 N´m (30-50 in. lbs.)
²Original Bearings:2.8-5.1 N´m (25-45 in. lbs.)
(23) Install axle shafts.(24) Install the propeller shaft with the reference
marks aligned.
(25) Install differential cover with gasket and
tighten bolts to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(26) Fill differential with fluid and tighten fill plug
to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 167
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................24
BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION.........................24
OPERATION...........................25
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER...........25
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................26
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - ALL EXCEPT HYDROBOOST . . . 26
REMOVAL - HYDROBOOST.............26
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - ALL EXCEPT
HYDROBOOST.......................27
INSTALLATION - HYDROBOOST..........27
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................28
OPERATION...........................28
REMOVAL.............................28
INSTALLATION.........................28
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................29
OPERATION...........................29
REMOVAL.............................29
INSTALLATION.........................29
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER...........................30
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING......31
REMOVAL.............................31
INSTALLATION.........................32
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR..................32
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................33
REMOVAL - REAR.....................34REMOVAL - REAR DUAL WHEELS........34
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................34
INSTALLATION - REAR.................34
INSTALLATION - REAR DUAL WHEELS....35
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL.............................35
INSTALLATION.........................36
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION.........................36
OPERATION...........................36
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................36
REMOVAL - REAR PARK BRAKE CABLE . . . 37
REMOVAL - RIGHT REAR CABLE.........37
REMOVAL - LEFT REAR CABLE..........38
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT PARKING BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - REAR PARK BRAKE
CABLE..............................38
INSTALLATION - RIGHT REAR CABLE.....38
INSTALLATION - LEFT REAR CABLE......39
SHOES
REMOVAL.............................39
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....39
INSPECTION - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE . . 39
INSTALLATION.........................40
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE SHOES . . 41
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL . . . 42
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................42
INSTALLATION.........................42
CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................43
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................44
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEDR

normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak or
fluid contamination. The leak point could be at a
brake line, fitting, hose, or caliper/wheel cylinder. If
leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or around
the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action isto inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve or a
vacuum hose could also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)