check engine DODGE RAM 2003 Service Repair Manual

OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the threaded plug, spring and plunger
(Fig. 114). Insert a finger or a seal pick to lift the
plunger from the bore.
NOTE: If the plunger is stuck in the bore, it will be
necessary to remove the filter head.
CLEANING
(1) Clean the regulator spring and plunger with a
suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. If
the plunger bore requires cleaning, it is necessary to
remove the oil filter head to avoid getting debris into
the engine.
INSPECTION
Inspect the plunger and plunger bore for cracks
and excessive wear. Polished surfaces are acceptable.
Verify that the plunger moves freely in the bore.
Check the spring for height and load limitations
(Fig. 115). Replace the spring if out of limits shown
in the figure.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the plunger, spring, and plug as shown
in (Fig. 114). Tighten the plug to 80 N´m (60 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(2) Connect the battery negative cables.
(3) Start the engine and verify that it has oil pres-
sure.
OIL PRESSURE SENSOR/
SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector.
(3) Using a suitable socket, remove the oil pres-
sure switch from the block (counter-clockwise).
INSTALLATION
(1) If the switch is not being replaced, replace and
lubricate the o-ring.
(2) Install the oil pressure switch and tighten to
18 N´m (159 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Connect oil pressure switch connector.
(4) Connect the battery negative cables.
(5) Start engine and check for oil leaks at the
switch.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove fan/drive assembly (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the fan support/hub assembly.
(5) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL) and speed indicator ring.
(6) Remove hydraulic pump.
(7) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
(8) Remove the gear housing cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/GEAR HOUSING COVER
- REMOVAL).
Fig. 114 Oil Pressure Regulator
1 - OIL FILTER
2 - PLUG
3 - GASKET
4 - SPRING
5 - VALVE
Fig. 115 Oil Pressure Regulator Spring Check
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 343

(2) Install the pump (Fig. 116). Verify the idler
gear pin is installed in the locating bore in the cylin-
der block. Tighten the oil pump mounting bolts in
two steps, in the sequence shown in (Fig. 122).
²Step 1ÐTighten to 8 N´m (71 in. lbs.) torque.
²Step 2ÐTighten to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.(3) The back plate on the pump seats against the
bottom of the bore in the cylinder block. When the
pump is correctly installed, the flange on the pump
will not touch the cylinder block.
(4) Measure the idler gear to pump drive gear
backlash and the idler gear to crankshaft gear back-
lash (Fig. 123). The backlash should be 0.15- 0.25
mm (0.006-0.010 inch). If the backlash is out of lim-
its, replace the oil pump.
(5) If the adjoining gear moves when you measure
the backlash, the reading will be incorrect.
(6) Apply a bead of MopartSilicone Rubber Adhe-
sive Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover
sealing surface.
(7) Install the gear housing cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/GEAR HOUSING COVER
- INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION) and speed indicator ring.
(9) Install the fan support/hub assembly and
torque bolts to 32 N´m (24 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install hydraulic pump.
(11) Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque
bolt to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect battery negative cables.
(15) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the charge air cooler outlet tube from
the air inlet housing (Fig. 124).
(3) Remove the engine oil dipstick tube mounting
bolt (Fig. 124).
Fig. 120 Measuring Gerotor Planetary to Body Bore
Clearance
1 - BODY BORE
2 - GEROTOR PLANETARY
Fig. 121 Measure Gear Backlash
1 - OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR
2 - IDLER GEAR
3 - BACKLASH
4 - BACKLASH
Fig. 122 Oil Pump Mounting Bolt Torque Sequence
Fig. 123 Idler Gear to Pump Drive Gear and
Crankshaft Gear Backlash
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 345
OIL PUMP (Continued)

(8) Install the oil drain tube and a new gasket to
the turbocharger. Tighten the drain tube bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9)Pre-lube the turbocharger.Pour 50 to 60 cc
(2 to 3 oz.) clean engine oil in the oil supply line fit-
ting on the turbo. Rotate the turbocharger impeller
by hand to distrubute the oil thoroughly.
(10) Install and tighten the oil supply line fitting
nut to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Position the charge air cooler inlet pipe to the
turbocharger. With the clamp in position, tighten the
clamp nut to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.) torque.
(12) Position the air inlet hose to the turbocharger.
Tighten the clamp to 8 N´m (72 in. lbs.) torque.
(13) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
and tighten the bolts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(15) Lower the vehicle.
(16) Connect the battery negative cables.
(17) Start the engine to check for leaks.
VALVE TIMING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TIMING
VERIFICATION
(1) Remove the cylinder head cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove fuel injector from cylinder number
1(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
FUEL INJECTOR - REMOVAL).
(3) Using Special Tool 7471B rotate the engine
until the TDC mark on the damper is at 12 o'clock.
(4) Using a 8 in.x 1/4 in. dowel rod inserted into
cylinder number 1, rock the crankshaft back and
forth to verify piston number 1 is at TDC.
(5) With cylinder number still at TDC, inspect the
keyway on the crankshaft gear for proper alignment
(12 o'clock position).
(6) If the keyway is not at 12 o'clock position
replace the crankshaft gear assembly.
(7) If the keyway is at 12 o'clock position, remove
front gear cover and verify timing mark alignment
between the camshaft gear and crankshaft gear, if
not aligned inspect keyway on camshaft gear.
(8) Inspect keyway on camshaft gear for proper
alignment with the key in the camshaft, if alignment
is off replace the camshaft/gear assembly.
(9) If timing marks alignment is off and no dam-
age is found at either the crankshaft or camshaft
gear keyways, realign timing marks as necessary.
GEAR HOUSING
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Partially drain engine coolant into container
suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(4) Lower vehicle.
(5) Remove radiator upper hose.
(6) Disconnect coolant recovery bottle hose from
radiator filler neck and lift bottle off of fan shroud.
(7) Disconnect windshield washer pump supply
hose and electrical connections and lift washer bottle
off of fan shroud.
(8) Remove lower fan shroud fasteners. Disconnect
fan drive wire harness.
(9) Remove the upper fan shroud-to-radiator
mounting bolts.
(10) Remove viscous fan/drive assembly (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the cooling fan support/hub from the
front of the engine.
(13) Raise the vehicle on hoist.
(14) Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL) and speed indicator ring.
(15) Lower the vehicle.
(16) Remove the hydraulic pump.
(17) Remove the accessory drive belt tensioner.
(18) Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and
gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking
care not to mar the gasket surfaces.
(19) Remove the fuel injection pump (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL INJEC-
TION PUMP - REMOVAL).
(20) Disconnect the camshaft position sensor con-
nector.
(21) Disconnect and remove engine speed sensor.
(22) Remove the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
(23) Remove the six front oil pan fasteners.
(24) Remove the gear housing fasteners.
NOTE: Use care when removing the gear housing,
to avoid damage to the oil pan gasket, as the gas-
ket will be reused if it is not damaged.
(25) Slide a feeler gauge between the gear housing
and oil pan gasket, to break the gasket seal.
(26) Remove the gear housing and gasket.
9 - 348 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSIS CHARTÐGASOLINE ENGINES
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK 1. Weak or dead battery 1. Charge/Replace Battery. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/
BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check charging system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
2. Corroded or loose battery connections 2. Clean/tighten suspect battery/starter
connections
3. Faulty starter or related circuit(s) 3. Check starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
4. Seized accessory drive component 4. Remove accessory drive belt and
attempt to start engine. If engine starts,
repair/replace seized component.
5. Engine internal mechanical failure or
hydro-static lock5. Refer to (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
ENGINE CRANKS BUT
WILL NOT START1. No spark 1. Check for spark. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL -
DESCRIPTION)
2. No fuel 2. Perform fuel pressure test, and if
necessary, inspect fuel injector(s) and
driver circuits. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
3. Low or no engine compression 3. Perform cylinder compression pressure
test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Worn or burned distributor rotor 1. Install new distributor rotor
2. Worn distributor shaft 2. Remove and repair distributor (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark plugs 3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
SPARK PLUG - CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust system 10. Install new parts as necessary
11. Faulty ignition cables 11. Replace any cracked or shorted cables
9 - 354 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
12. Faulty ignition coil 12. Test and replace, as necessary (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL).
ENGINE STALLS OR
ROUGH IDLE1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate 1. Remove throttle body and de-carbon.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
INJECTION/THROTTLE BODY -
REMOVAL).
2. Engine idle speed too low 2. Check Idle Air Control circuit. (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR -
DESCRIPTION)
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark plugs 3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark
plugs (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING)
4. Worn or burned distributor rotor 4. Install new distributor rotor
5. Spark plug cables defective or crossed 5. Check for correct firing order or replace
spark plug cables. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
SPARK PLUG CABLE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
6. Faulty coil 6. Test and replace, if necessary (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL)
7. Intake manifold vacuum leak 7. Inspect intake manifold gasket and
vacuum hoses (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark plugs 1. Replace spark plugs or clean and set
gap. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - CLEANING)
2. Spark plug cables defective or crossed 2. Replace or rewire secondary ignition
cables. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
CABLE - REMOVAL)
3. Dirt in fuel system 3. Clean fuel system
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves 4. Install new valves
5. Faulty coil 5. Test and replace as necessary (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL)
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 355
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/LIFTERS 1. High or low oil level in crankcase 1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust oil
level by draining or adding as needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) for engine oil pressure
test/specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms and
replace worn arms as needed
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and replace
as necessary
9. Excessive runout of valve seats or
valve faces9. Grind valves and seats
CONNECTING ROD
NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) engine oil pressure
test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive connecting rod bearing
clearance4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance with plasti-gage. Repair as
necessary
5. Connecting rod journal out of round 5. Replace crankshaft or grind journals
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
9 - 356 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of round
or worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/flywheel
and bolts for damage. Tighten to correct
torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and
reinstall
8. Oil pickup tube loose, broken, bent or
clogged8. Inspect oil pickup tube and pump, and
clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup plug 4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS
- DESCRIPTION) for correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end gap
and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 357
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5.Front cover seal, damaged or
misaligned.5. Replace seal.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump.
9. Oil pickup tube loose or
damaged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
9 - 358 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder CYLINDER COMBUSTION
PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART.
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 359
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Toothin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 360 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)