engine DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Repair Manual

TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or
damage. Turn table of tool C-647 (1) until surface is in
line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compressing
lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until a
Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this
instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the
spring load at test length. Fractional measurements
are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer
to Specifications Section to obtain specified height and
allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not
meet specifications.
INSTALLATION
1. Coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
2. Install the valve stem seal (3). make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
3. Install the spring (6) and the spring retainer (2).
4. Using the valve spring compressor, compress the
spring (6) and install the two valve locks (1).
5. Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two valve locks and the spring retainer are
fully seated.

6. lubricate the camshaft journal with clean engine oil
then Position the camshaft (with the sprocket dowel
on the left camshaft at 11 o’clock and the right
camshaft at 12 o’clock), then position the camshaft
bearing caps.
7. Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts 9–13 Nꞏm (100 in. lbs.) in
1⁄2turn
increments in the sequence shown.
8. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker
arms.

ROCKER ARM - VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an integral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate an 0.5 mm (0.019
inch) oil hole in the ball socket forroller and camshaft lubrication.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the followingitems.
1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be
spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed runningupto1hourmayberequired.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has
reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Airingestedintooilduetobrokenorcrackedoilpumppickup.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle.
Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bot-
tomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full ofoil. This can be verified by little or no
plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to
prevent accidental starter engagement.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
2. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 3 and 5
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
exhaust stroke.
3. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 2 and 8
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
compression stroke.
4. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 4 and 6
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC
compression stroke.
5. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 1 and 7
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC
compression stroke.
6. Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover (2),
press downward on the valve spring, remove
rocker arm.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Make sure the rocker arms are installed with the concave pocket over the lash adjusters. Failure
to do so may cause severe damage to the rocker arms and/or lash adjusters.
NOTE: Coat the rocker arms with clean engine oil prior to installation.
1. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 3 and 5 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.
2. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 2 and 8 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC compression
stroke.
3. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 4 and 6 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC compression
stroke.
4. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 1 and 7 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC compression
stroke.
5. Using special tool 8516 press downward on the valve spring, install rocker arm.
6. Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTAL-
LATION).

SPRINGS-VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for intake and
exhaust applications. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to
control lubrication.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
2. Using Special Tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover (2),
remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve
spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in
place when the spring is removed
NOTE: All eight valve springs and seals are
removed in the same manner; this procedure only
covers one valve seal and valve spring.
5. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor,
compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
6. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor.
8. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
9. Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.

INSTALLATION
1. Coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
install the valve stem seal. Make sure the seal is
fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of
the seal is intact.
2. Install the spring (6) and the spring retainer (2).
3. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor,
compress the spring and install the two valve
spring retainer halves.
4. Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring
retainer are fully seated.
5. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker
arms.
6. Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

INSPECTION
1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to mea-
sure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore
gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.)
INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not
available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at
three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular
(across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crank-
shaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to
the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the
bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diame-
ter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps
above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the dif-
ference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015 mm
(0.0006 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper orout- of-round condition exceeds these
maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore
after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

3. Use piston ring compressor (3) and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 (4) to install the rod and piston
assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must
face front of the engine. The “F”’s near the piston
wrist pin bore should point to the front of the
engine.
4. Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap
Center bearing insert (2) in connecting rod (1)..
The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plasti-
gage across full width of the lower insert at the
center of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble
in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.

5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the jour-
nal and tighten bolts to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of
bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (2). Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.
Plastigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If the
clearancevaries,itmaybecausedbyeithera
tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign
material trapped between the insert and cap or
rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of
the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the
Plastigage (2) from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.
Bearing Mark SIZE USED WITH
JOURNAL SIZE
.025 US.025 mm 50.983-50.967 mm
(.001 in.) (2.0073-2.0066 in.)
Std.STANDARD 50.992-51.008 mm
(2.0076-2.0082 in.)
.250 US.250 mm 50.758-50.742 mm
(.010 in.) (1.9984-1.9978 in.)
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which service bearing set to use, using the
chart above.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your
bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install
the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod
bolts to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting
rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to Engine
Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace the
connecting rod if the side clearance is not within
specification.