FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Repair Manual

3 Ignition coil- checking,
removal and refitting
2
Distributor ignition systems
Checking
1 Accurate checking of the coil output
requires the use of special test equipment and
should be left to a dealer or suitably equipped
automotive electrician. It is however possible
to check the primary and secondary winding
resistance using an ohmmeter as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
3 Remove the vehicle jack from its storage
position by unscrewing its retainer. The
ignition coil is mounted below.
4 To check the primary resistance (with all
leads disconnected if the coil is fitted),
connect the ohmmeter across the coil positive
and negative terminals. The resistance should
be as given in the Specificationsat the
beginning of this Chapter.
5 To check the secondary resistance (with all
leads disconnected if the coil is fitted),
connect one lead from the ohmmeter to the
coil negative terminal, and the other lead to
the centre HT terminal. Again the resistance
should be as given in the Specifications.
6 If any of the measured values vary
significantly from the figures given in the
Specifications , the coil should be renewed.
7 If a new coil is to be fitted, ensure that it is
of the correct type. The appropriate Ford
supplied ignition coil is identified by a red
label, and will be one of three different makes,
all of which are fully interchangeable. Bosch
and Femsa coils are fitted with protective
plastic covers, and Polmot coils are fitted with
an internal fusible link. Note that contact
breaker ignition coils are not interchangeable
with the required breakerless type and could
cause ignition module failure if used.
Removal
8 If not already done, remove the vehicle jack from its storage position by unscrewing its
retainer. The ignition coil is mounted below.
9
Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
10 Disconnect the HT lead and the low
tension (LT) connections from the ignition coil.
Note that the LT connections on the ignition
coil are of different sizes. As an aid to refitting
the positive (+) terminal is larger than the
negative (-) terminal (see illustration).
11 Remove the two screws or bolts securing
the coil mounting bracket to the inner wing
panel, and withdraw the coil and mounting
bracket assembly.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring correct LT lead polarity.
Distributorless ignition systems
Checking
Note: The ignition coil is located on the rear
facing side of the cylinder block on HCS
engines; on the left-hand end of the cylinder
head on CVH, PTE and Zetec engines.
13 Having checked that full battery voltage is
available at the centre terminal of the coil’s
electrical connector (see Section 2),
disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
14 Unplug the coil’s electrical connector, if
not already disconnected.
15 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance of the coil’s primary windings,
connecting the meter between the coil’s
terminal pins as follows. Measure first from
one outer pin to the centre pin, then from the
other outer pin to the centre. Compare the
readings with the coil primary resistance listed
in the Specifications .
16 Disconnect the spark plug (HT) leads -
note their connections or label them carefully,
as described in Chapter 1. Use the meter to
check that there is continuity between each
pair of (HT) lead terminals; Nos 1 and 4
terminals are connected by their secondary
winding, as are Nos 2 and 3. Now switch to the highest resistance scale, and check that
there is no continuity between either pair of
terminals and the other - ie, there should be
infinite resistance between terminals 1 and 2,
or 4 and 3 - and between any terminal and
earth.
17
If either of the above tests yield resistance
values outside the specified amount, or
results other than those described, renew the
coil. Any further testing should be left to a
dealer service department or other qualified
repair facility.
Removal
Note: The ignition coil is located on the rear
facing side of the cylinder block on HCS
engines; on the left-hand end of the cylinder
head on CVH, PTE and Zetec engines.
18 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Part A, Section 1).
19 Disconnect the coil main electrical
connector and (where fitted) the electrical
connector to the suppressor.
20 The coil can be removed with the HT
leads left attached, in which case disconnect
the leads from their respective spark plugs
and from the location clips in the rocker cover
or air inlet duct (as applicable). If preferred,
the HT leads can be disconnected from the
coil. First check that both the ignition HT
leads and their fitted positions are clearly
marked numerically to ensure correct refitting.
Spot mark them accordingly if necessary,
using quick-drying paint.
21 If disconnecting the leads from the spark
plugs, pull them free by gripping on the
connector, not the lead. To detach the leads
from the ignition coil, compress the retaining
arms of each lead connector at the coil, and
detach each lead in turn (see illustration).
22 Unscrew the Torx-type retaining screws,
and remove the coil from its mounting on the
engine (see illustration) .
Refitting
23Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the spark plug (HT)
leads are correctly reconnected, and tighten
the coil screws securely.
5B•4 Ignition system
3.22 Distributorless ignition system ignition coil and mounting bracket removal (HCS engine shown)3.21 Removing an HT lead from the
distributorless ignition system ignition coil. Note the corresponding markings on the ignition coil and HT lead (arrowed)3.10 Ignition coil fitted to distributor
ignition systems
A Retaining bolts
B LT connections
C HT lead to distributor cap
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4 Ignition amplifier module(distributor ignition systems)
- removal and refitting
2
Note: The ignition amplifier module is only
fitted to carburettor engine models.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
2 Remove the distributor, as described in
Section 8.
3 With the distributor on the workbench,
remove both screws securing the module to
the distributor body, then slide the module
from its trigger coil connector and remove it.
4 Check that the rubber grommet is
serviceable. If it is not, it must be renewed but
ensure that the correct type is obtained.
Refitting
5 Apply heat sink compound (see
Specifications ) to the module metal face,
ensuring a good earth. This is an essential
part of the procedure, protecting the module
electronic circuitry from excessive heat build-
up and subsequent malfunction.
6 Slide the module into its trigger coil
connector and secure with both screws.
7 Refit the distributor in accordance with
Section 8, then reconnect the battery.
5 Ignition module -
removal and refitting
1
Note: Various designs of ignition module may
be fitted depending on ignition system type.
Although the units may differ in appearance
from the those shown in the accompanying
illustrations, the procedures described below
are applicable to all types.
Removal
1 The ignition module is located on the
engine compartment bulkhead.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
3 Where applicable, detach the vacuum hose
from the module (see illustration).
4 According to type, either compress the
locktab securing the wiring multi-plug in
position, or where applicable, undo the
retaining bolt, then withdraw the plug from the
module (see illustrations) .
5 Undo the retaining screws, and remove
the module from the bulkhead (see
illustration) .
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
6 Crankshaft position sensor -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ).
3 If working on the Zetec engine, remove the
starter motor as described in Part A of this
Chapter.
4 Compress the retaining clip and pull free
the wiring multi-plug connector from the
sensor unit, but take care to pull on the
connector, not the lead (see illustration).
5 Undo the Torx-type retaining screw, and
withdraw the sensor from its location in the
cylinder block bellhousing flange.
Refitting
6 Refitting is the reversal of removal.
7 Distributor cap and rotor
arm - removal and refitting
1
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
2 Disconnect the coil HT lead from the centre
of the distributor cap and the spark plug HT
leads from the spark plugs, having identified
them for subsequent refitting. Pull on the
connectors, not the leads. Release the leads
from any cable clips or ties.
3 On carburettor models, unclip the
suppressor shield (where fitted), remove the
distributor cap securing screws and detach
the cap.
4 On CFi fuel injection models, disconnect
the distributor multi-plug for better access to
the rear cap securing clip. Release the
distributor cap securing clips by levering with
a screwdriver, withdraw the cap assembly
Ignition system 5B•5
5.4b Undoing the ignition module multi- plug securing bolt5.4a Disconnecting the ignition module multi-plug5.3 Disconnecting the vacuum pipe fromthe ignition module
6.4 Crankshaft position sensor removal
A Retaining screw B Multi-plug5.5 Ignition module location on bulkheadpanel. Note retaining screws (arrowed)
5B
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and separate the suppressor shield from the
cap (see illustrations) .
5 Withdraw the rotor arm from the distributor
shaft.
6 Before refitting, wipe clean the distributor
cap and leads and carry out a careful
inspection as described in Chapter 1.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the HT leads are
securely connected and in the correct order.
8 Distributor -
removal and refitting
2
Note: On pre-September 1990 CVH engines
with CFi fuel injection, unless the original
distributor is to be refitted to the original
cylinder head, it will be necessary to take the
vehicle to a Ford dealer for accurate
adjustment of the ignition timing after refitting.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
2 If the original distributor is to be refitted to
the original cylinder head, check that the
punch marks on the cylinder head and
distributor body are aligned before removing
the distributor (see illustration) . If no marks
are present, make your own using a punch or small file to ensure correct alignment upon
subsequent refitting.
3
Refer to Section 7 and remove the
distributor cap.
4 On carburettor equipped CVH engines,
disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
distributor vacuum diaphragm unit.
5 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
distributor.
6 Remove the clamp bolts securing the
distributor in position and slide it out (see
illustration) .
7 Prior to refitting, check the condition of the
distributor oil seal and renew it if necessary.
Refitting
CVH engines with carburettor
8 Position the distributor so that its offset
drive is engaged with the slot in the end of the
camshaft, then loosely insert the two clamp
bolts.
9 Where both original punch marks are
present, on the cylinder head and distributor
body, rotate the distributor body until the
punch marks are aligned before fully
tightening the clamp bolts.
10 If one or both of the punch marks are
missing (due to component renewal), turn the
body of the distributor so that the clamp bolts
are centrally located in their slots then fully
tighten the bolts.
11 Refit the rotor arm (if removed), distributor
cap, suppressor shield (as applicable) and HT leads, making reference to Section 7, then
reconnect the wiring multi-plug and vacuum
pipe.
12
Reconnect the battery negative lead.
13 If one or both of the punch marks are
missing after component renewal, check the
ignition timing, as described in Section 10,
and adjust as necessary. This will not be
required where the original punch marks have
been re-aligned.
Pre-September 1990 CVH engines
with CFi fuel injection
14 Position the distributor so that its offset
drive is engaged with the slot in the end of the
camshaft, then loosely insert the two clamp
bolts.
15 Where both original punch marks are
present, on the cylinder head and distributor
body, rotate the distributor body until the
punch marks are aligned then fully tighten the
clamp bolts.
16 If one or both of the punch marks are
missing (due to component renewal), rotate
the distributor body until the centre line
through the distributor multi-plug connector is
at 40° to the vertical (see illustration), before
fully tightening the distributor clamp bolts.
This will give an approximate (static) ignition
timing setting to enable starting of the engine
5B•6 Ignition system
8.16 Distributor orientation when re-fitting
if alignment punch marks are missing (Pre-
September 1990 CVH engines with CFi fuel injection)
A Direction of rotation
B Centre line through distributor connector (40º to vertical)
8.6 Removing the distributor from the cylinder head8.2 Distributor alignment punch marks (arrowed)
7.4c Withdrawing the distributor cap andsuppressor shield assembly7.4b Releasing one of the distributor capsecuring clips by carefully levering with a screwdriver7.4a Disconnecting the distributor multi- plug
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after the remaining components have been
refitted and the relevant connections made.
17Refit the rotor arm (if removed), distributor
cap, suppressor shield (as applicable) and HT
leads, making reference to Section 7, then
reconnect the wiring multi-plug.
18 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
19 If one or both of the punch marks are
missing after component renewal, the vehicle
will need to be taken to a Ford dealer for
accurate ignition timing checking and, if
necessary, adjustment. This can only be
carried out with the EEC IV engine
management module in “self-test” mode
and connected to the Ford specialised test
equipment (see Section 10, paragraph 19).
9 Distributor vacuum diaphragm unit - renewal
2
Note: Check parts availability before
proceeding with this operation.
1 Remove the distributor, as described in
Section 8.
2 With the distributor on the workbench,
remove the ignition amplifier module (see
Section 4) and the distributor cap and rotor
arm (if not already done).
3 Remove the three screws securing the distributor body halves and separate the
assembly
(see illustration) .
4 Lift out the plastic spacer ring from the
upper distributor body half (see illustration).
5 Remove the trigger coil to ignition amplifier
module connector and seal, having noted
which way the connector fits for subsequent
reassembly (see illustration) .
6 Lift out the trigger coil, before careful not to
damage it or its connectors as it is withdrawn.
7 Remove the stator securing circlip and the
upper shim followed by the stator and the
lower shim (see illustration) .
8 Undo the vacuum diaphragm unit securing
screw and detach the unit.
9 This is the limit of dismantling that can be
undertaken on these distributors. Should the
distributor be worn or unserviceable in any
other respect, renewal of the complete unit
will be necessary.
10 Reassembling is a reversal of the
dismantling procedure. During reassembly,
ensure that the pin on the vacuum diaphragm
unit arm engaged in the stator as the stator is
refitted, and fit the plastic spacer ring so that
its cut-out aligns with the trigger coil to
ignition amplifier module connector.
Additionally, after the distributor body halves’
securing screws have been tightened, ensure
that the distributor shaft turns easily. Refit the
ignition amplifier module in accordance with
Section 4.
10 Ignition timing -
checking and adjustment
2
Distributorless ignition systems
1 The ignition timing is controlled entirely by
the ignition module (acting in conjunction with
the EEC IV engine management module on
fuel injection engines), and can only be
checked and adjusted when the system is
connected to Ford diagnostic equipment.
2 If the timing is thought to be incorrect, this
can only be due to a fault in the ignition
module or engine management system
components and the vehicle should be taken
to a Ford dealer for full testing and fault
diagnosis.
Distributor ignition systems (CVH
engines with carburettor)
Note: When an engine is timed in production,
marks are punched into the cylinder head and
the distributor body flange to indicate the
correct timing position of the distributor (see
illustration 8.2) . Therefore, under normal
circumstances, ignition timing adjustment will
only be necessary if the initial setting has been
disturbed. An ignition timing setting for use
with unleaded petrol (95 RON) is given in the
Specifications
3 Where the original punch marks are present
on the cylinder head and the distributor body
flange, correct ignition timing can be set, as
necessary, by turning the body of the
distributor to align the marks before re-
tightening the distributor clamp bolts.
4 If, due to component renewal, one or both
of the original punch marks is missing, the
following procedure must be carried out.
5 Turn the distributor body so that the clamp
bolts are located centrally in their slots then
tighten the clamp bolts.
6 Increase the contrast of the notch in the
crankshaft pulley and the appropriate mark on
the timing cover scale (refer to Specifications)
by applying a dab of quick-drying white paint
(see illustration) .
7 Connect a stroboscopic timing light in
Ignition system 5B•7
9.5 Trigger coil to ignition amplifier
module connector (A) and seal9.4 Remove the plastic spacer ring (A)9.3 Distributor body halves separated
(ignition amplifier module also shown)
10.6 Crankshaft pulley timing notch
(arrowed) and timing marks on the timing cover scale9.7 Stator and shim details
A Circlip C Stator
B Upper shim D Lower shim
5B
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accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions.
8Start the engine, bring it up to normal
operating temperature and allow it to idle.
9 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the
distributor and fit blanking plugs.
10 If the timing light is now directed at the
engine timing marks, the pulley notch will
appear to be stationary and opposite the
specified mark on the scale. If the marks are
not in alignment, release the distributor clamp
bolts slightly and turn the distributor body in
whichever direction is necessary to align the
pulley notch to the appropriate scale mark.
Tighten the clamp bolts fully when the setting
is correct.
11 Using a suitable punch, re-mark the
cylinder head and/or the distributor flange to
indicate the new distributor timing position for
any future repair operations.
12 The operation of the centrifugal advance
weights in the distributor can be checked by
increasing the engine speed with the timing
light pointing at the engine timing marks and
observing that the pulley notch advances from
its initial position.
13 To check the vacuum advance, run the
engine at a fast idle speed and reconnect the vacuum pipe. The pulley notch should again
advance.
14
Stop the engine, disconnect the
tachometer and timing light and reconnect the
vacuum pipe. Refit the timing aperture cover.
15 If the timing notch did not appear to move
during the centrifugal advance check, a fault
in the distributor centrifugal advance
mechanism is indicated. No increased
movement of the notch during the vacuum
advance check indicate a punctured
diaphragm in the vacuum unit, or a leak in the
vacuum line.
16 On completion of the adjustments and
checks, switch the engine off, disconnect the
timing light and ensure that the distributor
vacuum pipe is securely connected.
Distributor ignition systems (pre-
September 1990 CVH engines with
CFi fuel injection)
Note: When an engine is timed in production
it is set, using a microwave timing system, to
an accuracy of within half a degree. Unless it
is essential, do not remove the distributor or
alter the ignition timing. If no distributor timing
position punch marks are present on the
cylinder head and distributor body flange, make your own before disturbing the setting
(see illustration 8.2)
.
17 The method of obtaining correct ignition
timing, with both original punch marks
present, is described in paragraph 3 above.
18 If (due to component renewal) one or both
of the punch marks is missing, an
approximate ignition timing setting can be
obtained to enable starting of the engine by
following the instruction given in Section 8,
paragraph 16.
19 Accurate ignition timing adjustment can
only be carried out using specialised
equipment - this is a task for your Ford dealer
or other suitably equipped specialist. The
reason for this is that the EEC IV engine
management module has to “lock” its internal
ignition advance compensations and its idle
speed control whilst the timing is set. The
“locking” of the EEC IV module is performed
in “self-test” mode when connected to the
Ford STAR test (Self-Test Automatic Readout)
equipment, which is also used to access fault
codes stored in the module memory and
analyse the performance of the system
components. New punch marks should be
made after accurate timing has been carried
out, as necessary.
5B•8 Ignition system
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9
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Front brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid or ventilated disc, with single-piston sliding calipers
Disc diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 240.0 mm
Disc thickness:Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 10.0 mm
Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 20.0 mm
Minimum disc thickness:
Solid disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 8.0 mm
Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 18.0 mm
Maximum disc run-out (disc fitted) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm
Minimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 mm
Rear brakes
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Drum with leading and trailing shoes and automatic adjusters
Nominal drum diameter: All except XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 mm
XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 mm
Maximum drum diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
1.0 mm above nominal diameter
Wheel cylinder bore diameter:
All except XR2i and ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17.5 mm
XR2i models with conventional braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.0 mm
All ABS equipped models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.0 mm
Minimum brake shoe lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm
Chapter 9
Braking system
ABS modulator drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) - general information . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - removal and refitting . . 24
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Se\
e Chapter 1
Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Brake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Brake pedal-to-servo cross-link - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 11
Brake pressure control valves - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Front brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Handbrake primary cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Handbrake rear cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hydraulic system - bleeding (anti-lock braking system) . . . . . . . . . . 14
Hydraulic system - bleeding (conventional braking system) . . . . . . . 13
Light-laden valve (Courier models) - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Light-laden valve (Courier models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 21
Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Load-apportioning valve (ABS models) - removal and refitting . . . . 26
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Rear brake backplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . \
. . . 5
Rear brake shoes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose and non-return valve - removal,
testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
16
9•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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1 General information
The braking system is of the diagonally
split, dual-circuit hydraulic type, with servo
assistance to the front disc brakes and rear
drum brakes. The dual-circuit hydraulic
system is a safety feature - in the event of a
malfunction somewhere in one of the
hydraulic circuits, the other circuit continues
to operate, providing at least some braking
effort. Under normal circumstances, both
brake circuits operate in unison, to provide
efficient braking.
The master cylinder (and the vacuum servo
unit to which it is bolted) is located on the left-
hand side of the bulkhead in the engine
compartment. On all right-hand drive variants,
they are jointly operated via a transverse
cross-link from the brake pedal.
Brake pressure control valves are fitted in-
line to each rear brake circuit, their function
being to regulate the braking force available at
each rear wheel, reducing the possibility of
the rear wheels locking up under heavy
braking. Courier models also have a “light-
laden” valve incorporated into the rear braking
circuits for the same reason. The front brake discs are of the ventilated
type on XR2i and ABS-equipped models, with
solid discs fitted on all other models. The front
brake calipers are of single sliding piston type
mounted on the front spindle carriers each
side. Each rear brake shoe assembly is operated
by a twin-piston wheel cylinder. The leading
brake shoe in each brake unit has a thicker
lining than the trailing shoe, so that they wear
proportionally. To take up the brake
adjustment as the linings wear, each rear
brake assembly incorporates an automatic
adjuster mechanism. The cable-operated handbrake acts on
both rear brakes, to provide an independent
means of brake operation. An anti-lock braking system (ABS) is
available on some models, and has many of
the components in common with the conventional braking system. Further details
on ABS can be found later in this Chapter.
Note:
When servicing any part of the system,
work carefully and methodically; also observe
scrupulous cleanliness when overhauling any
part of the hydraulic system. Always renew
components (in axle sets, where applicable) if
in doubt about their condition, and use only
genuine Ford replacement parts, or at least
those of known good quality. Note the
warnings given in “Safety first” and at relevant
points in this Chapter concerning the dangers
of asbestos dust and hydraulic fluid.
2 Front brake pads - renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads MUST
be renewed on both front
wheels at the same time -
NEVER renew the pads on only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result.
The front brake calipers will be of Bendix
or Teves manufacture, and if they or their
component parts require renewal, ensure
that the correct type is fitted. Dust created
by wear of the pads may contain asbestos,
which is a health hazard. Never blow it out
with compressed air, and do not inhale any
of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts - use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOT allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to
contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning in Section 13 concerning
the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1
Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Hold the caliper support spring with a pair
of pliers, and prise it out of its location in the
caliper housing using a screwdriver (see
illustration) .
3 Prise free the blanking plugs from the
caliper upper and lower mounting bolts.
Unscrew the bolts, then withdraw the caliper
from the anchor bracket (see illustrations).
Suitably support the caliper to avoid straining
the brake hose.
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Master cylinder to servo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 20 to 25 15 to 18
Servo to mounting bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33
Pedal-to-servo cross-link brackets to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Rear drum/hub to axle flange bolts* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 to 76 41 to 56
Caliper-to-spindle carrier (anchor bracket) bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 to 66 37 to 49
Caliper piston housing retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Load-apportioning valves to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 25 15 to 18
Load-apportioning valve bracket to vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Load-apportioning valve adjustment screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 to 16 9 to 12
Load-apportioning valve-to-axle beam link rod nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
Modulator pivot and adjusting clamp bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Modulator drivebelt cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
8 to 12 6 to 9
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 70 to 110 52 to 74
*Applies to all models except Courier. No figures are quoted by the manu\
facturers for Courier models.
9•2 Braking system
2.3b . . . unscrew the bolts then withdraw the caliper from the anchor bracket2.3a Remove the rubber blanking plugs foraccess to the caliper mounting bolts . . .
2.2 Prise out the caliper support spring with a screwdriver
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4Withdraw the pads from the caliper piston
housing or anchor bracket. The outer pad will
normally remain in position in the anchor
bracket, but the inner pad will stay attached to
the piston in the caliper, and may need to be
carefully prised free. If the old pads are to be
refitted, ensure that they are identified so that
they can be returned to their original
positions.
5 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper and
piston, but do not inhale it, as it is a health
hazard . Inspect the dust cover around the
piston for damage and for evidence of fluid
leaks, which if found will necessitate caliper
overhaul as described in Section 3.
6 If new brake pads are to be fitted, the
caliper piston will need to be pushed back
into its housing, to allow for the extra pad
thickness - use a C-clamp to do this. Note
that, as the piston is pressed back into the
bore, it will displace the fluid in the system,
causing the fluid level in the brake master
cylinder reservoir to rise and possibly
overflow. To avoid this possibility, a small
quantity of fluid should be removed from the
reservoir. If any brake fluid is spilt onto the
bodywork, hoses or adjacent components in
the engine compartment, wipe it clean without
delay.
7 Prior to refitting, check that the pads and
the disc are clean. Where new pads are to be
installed, peel the protective backing paper
from them. If the old pads are to be refitted,
ensure that they are correctly located as
noted during their removal.
8 Locate the inner and outer brake pad into
position in the caliper. Relocate the caliper
into position on the anchor bracket, and insert
the mounting bolts.
9 Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque, and refit the blanking plugs. Relocate
the caliper support spring.
10 Repeat the procedure on the opposite
front brake. 11
Before lowering the vehicle, check that
the fluid level in the brake master cylinder
reservoir is up to the “Maximum level” mark,
and top-up with the specified fluid type if
required (see “Weekly Checks” ). Depress the
brake pedal a few times to position the pads
against the disc, then recheck the fluid level in
the reservoir and further top-up if necessary.
12 Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground. Tighten the roadwheel
retaining nuts to the specified torque.
13 To allow the new brake pads to bed-in
and reach full efficiency, a running-in period of
approximately 100 miles or so should be
observed before hard use and heavy braking.
3 Front brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting
4
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front roadwheels.
2 Fit a brake hose clamp to the flexible brake
hose leading to the front brake caliper. This
will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations.
3 Loosen by half a turn, the union on the
caliper end of the flexible brake hose.
4 Remove the front brake pads as described
in Section 2.
5 Support the caliper in one hand, and
prevent the brake hose from turning with a
spanner in the other hand. Unscrew the
caliper from the hose, making sure that the
hose is not twisted unduly or strained (see
illustration) . Once the caliper is detached,
cover or plug the open hydraulic unions to
keep them clean.
6 If required, the caliper anchor bracket can
be unbolted and removed from the spindle
carrier (see illustration) .
Overhaul
7With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt, but avoid inhaling the
dust, as it is a health hazard .
8 Remove the piston from its bore by
applying low air pressure (from a foot pump,
for example) into the caliper hydraulic fluid
hose port. In the event of a high-pressure air
hose being used, keep the pressure as low as
possible, to enable the piston to be extracted,
but to avoid the piston being ejected too
quickly and being damaged. Position a
suitable piece of wood between the caliper
frame and the piston to prevent this
possibility. Any fluid remaining in the caliper
will probably be ejected with the piston.
9 Using a suitable hooked tool, carefully extract
the dust cover from its groove in the piston
and the seal from its groove in the caliper bore,
but take care not to scratch or damage the
piston and/or the bore in the caliper.
10 Clean all the parts in methylated spirit or
clean brake fluid, and wipe dry using a clean
lint-free cloth (see illustration) . Inspect the
piston and caliper bore for signs of damage,
scuffing or corrosion. If these conditions are
evident, renew the caliper body assembly.
11 If the components are in satisfactory
condition, a repair kit which includes a new
seal and dust cover must be obtained.
12 Lubricate the piston bore in the caliper
and the seal with clean brake fluid. Carefully
fit the seal in the caliper bore, using fingers
only (no tools) to manipulate it into position in
its groove. When in position, check that it is
not distorted or twisted.
13 Locate the dust cover over the piston so
that its inner diameter is engaged in the piston
groove. Smear the area behind the piston
groove with the special lubricating grease
supplied in the repair kit, then insert the piston
into the caliper. Push the piston into position in
the bore, and simultaneously press the dust
cover into the piston housing so that it is seated
correctly. Take particular care not to distort or
damage the seal or cover as they are fitted.
Refitting
14 If the anchor bracket was removed, fit it
into position on the spindle carrier, and tighten
the retaining bolts to the specified torque.
Braking system 9•3
3.10 Brake caliper and piston components
A Dust cover C Piston
B Piston seal D Brake caliper
3.6 Undoing a brake caliper anchor bracket bolt3.5 Hold the brake hose with a spannerand unscrew the caliper from the hose
9
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
An ideal way to remove fluidfrom the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry
baster.
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15Unplug the hydraulic hose, and check that
the unions are clean. Reconnect the caliper to
the hose so that the hose is not twisted or
strained. The hose union connection can be
fully tightened when the caliper is refitted.
16 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 2.
17 The brake hydraulic hose can now be fully
tightened. When secured, turn the steering
from lock-to-lock to ensure that the hose
does not foul on the wheel housing or
suspension components.
18 Bleed the brake hydraulic system as
described in Section 13 or 14 according to
type. Providing suitable precautions were
taken to minimise loss of fluid, it should only
be necessary to bleed the relevant front
brake.
19 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, then tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
4 Front brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting
2
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Inspection
Note: If a disc requires renewal, BOTH front
discs should be renewed or reground at the
same time to ensure even and consistent
braking. New brake pads should also be fitted.
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 Temporarily refit two of the wheel nuts to
diagonally-opposite studs, with the flat sides
of the nuts against the disc. Tighten the nuts
progressively, to hold the disc firmly.
3 Scrape any corrosion from the disc. Rotate
the disc, and examine it for deep scoring,
grooving or cracks. Using a micrometer,
measure the thickness of the disc in several
places. Light wear and scoring is normal, but
if excessive, the disc should be removed, and
either reground by a specialist, or renewed. If regrinding is undertaken, at least the minimum
thickness must be maintained. Obviously, if
the disc is cracked, it must be renewed.
4
Using a dial gauge, check that the disc run-
out, measured at a point 10.0 mm from the
outer edge of the disc, does not exceed the
limit given in the Specifications. To do this, fix
the measuring equipment, and rotate the disc,
noting the variation in measurement as the
disc is rotated (see illustration). The
difference between the minimum and
maximum measurements recorded is the disc
run-out.
5 If the run-out is greater than the specified
amount, check for variations of the disc
thickness as follows. Mark the disc at eight
positions 45° apart, then using a micrometer,
measure the disc thickness at the eight
positions, 15.0 mm in from the outer edge. If
the variation between the minimum and
maximum readings is greater than the
specified amount, the disc should be
renewed.
Removal
6 Remove the caliper and its anchor bracket
with reference to Section 3, but do not
disconnect the hydraulic brake hose.
Suspend the caliper assembly from the front
suspension coil spring, taking care to avoid
straining the brake hose.
7 Remove the wheel nuts which were
temporarily refitted in paragraph 2.
8 Unscrew the screw securing the disc to the
hub, and withdraw the disc (see
illustrations) . If it is tight, lightly tap its rear
face with a hide or plastic mallet.
Refitting
9 Refit the disc in a reversal of the removal
sequence. If new discs are being fitted, first remove their protective coating. Ensure
complete cleanliness of the hub and disc
mating faces and tighten the screw securely.
10
Refit the caliper/anchor bracket with
reference to Section 3.
11 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to
the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts to the
specified torque.
5 Rear brake drum - removal,
inspection and refitting
2
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 6
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the appropriate rear roadwheel, and release
the handbrake.
2 Undo the four bolts securing the drum/hub
and stub axle assembly to the rear axle
flange, then withdraw the drum/hub from the
axle. If the brake drum is stuck on the shoes,
remove the rubber access plug from the rear
of the brake backplate, and release the
automatic brake adjuster by levering the
release catch on the adjuster pawl through the
backplate (see illustration) .
3 With the brake drum removed, brush or
wipe the dust from the drum, brake shoes,
9•4 Braking system
5.2 Removing the rubber access plug from
the rear of the brake backplate
4.8b . . . and remove the disc from the hub4.8a Extract the brake disc securing screw . . .4.4 Checking brake disc run-out using a dial gauge
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
If a dial gauge is not
available, check the run-out
by positioning a fixed
pointer near the outer edge,
in contact with the disc face. Rotate
the disc and measure the maximum
displacement of the pointer with feeler
blades.
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wheel cylinder and backplate. Take great care
not to inhale the dust, as it may contain
asbestos.
4 If required, remove the hub from the drum
as described in Chapter 10.
Inspection
Note: If a brake drum requires renewal, BOTH
rear drums should be renewed at the same
time to ensure even and consistent
braking. New brake shoes should also be
fitted.
5 Clean the inside surfaces of the brake drum
and hub, then examine the internal surface of
the brake drum for signs of scoring or cracks.
If any deterioration of the friction surface is
evident, renewal of the drum is necessary. To
detach the hub from the drum, refer to
Chapter 10.
Refitting
6 Check that the automatic brake adjuster is
fully retracted, then refit the drum/hub to the
axle. Tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
7 With the brake drum refitted, refit the
roadwheel. Fully depress the brake pedal
several times, to actuate the rear brake
adjuster and take up the adjustment. Check
that the rear wheels spin freely when the
brakes are released, then apply the
handbrake, lower the vehicle and tighten the
wheel nuts to the specified torque.
6 Rear brake shoes - renewal
2
Warning: Drum brake shoes
MUST be renewed on both rear
wheels at the same time -
NEVER renew the shoes on only
one wheel, as uneven braking may result.
Also, the dust created by wear of the
shoes may contain asbestos, which is a
health hazard. Never blow it out with
compressed air, and don’t inhale any of it.
An approved filtering mask should be worn
when working on the brakes. DO NOT use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts - use brake cleaner or methylated
spirit only.
1 Remove the rear brake drum with reference
to Section 5.
2 Note the fitted positions of the springs and
the adjuster strut.
3 Depress the cups holding the brake shoes
in position and rotate them through 90° to
release them from the locking pins (see
illustration) . Carefully remove the cups and
springs, then withdraw the locking pins from
the rear of the brake backplate.
4 Lift the shoes from their lower pivot and
remove the lower pull-off spring (see
illustration) . Note that on some models anti-
rattle shims may be fitted between the brake
shoe and the lower pivot (see illustration). Iffitted, remove the shims and store them
safely.
5
With the shoe assembly pulled away from
the wheel cylinder, disengage the handbrake
cable from its operating lever on the trailing
shoe (see illustration) .
6 Remove the upper pull-off spring, noting
the method of location.
7 Release the automatic brake adjuster cam
and pawl, then remove the adjuster strut
which is held in position by spring tension
(see illustrations) .
8 Using a screwdriver, lever off the spring clip
securing the handbrake operating lever to the
trailing shoe and separate the assembly (see
illustration) .
Braking system 9•5
6.4b Arrangement of brake shoe anti-
rattle shims - where fitted
A Shims C Lower pull-off spring
B Lower pivot D Brake shoes
6.5 Disengage the handbrake cable from its operating lever on the trailing shoe
6.4a Detach the lower pull-off spring6.3 Depress and turn the cups securing the brake shoes
6.8 Lever off the spring clip securing thehandbrake operating lever to the trailing
shoe6.7b Detach the adjuster strut6.7a Release the automatic brake adjustercam and pawl
9
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