spark plugs replace JEEP CJ 1953 User Guide

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-112.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor
Fuel
Economy Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck

Carburetor
Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High
Fuel
Pump Pressure

Fuel
Leakage
Leaky
Fuel
Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High
Fuel
Level

in
Carburetor

Low
Compression Valves Sticking

Spark
Plugs Bad

Spark
Plug Cables Bad Weak
Coil
or Condenser Improper Valve Tappet Clearance

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner Dragging Brakes

Front
Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires
Improperly Inflated Inaccurate Odometer

Faulty
Fuel
Tank
Cap

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Lack
of Power
Low
Compression Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or
Fuel
Pump

Fuel
Lines
Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves Valve Timing Late

Leaky
Gaskets
Muffler
Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe

Defective
Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective
Breaker Points—Replace
Points

Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset
Points

Defective
Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective
Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked
Distributor Cap—Replace Cap

Low
Compression
Leaky
Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky
Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and
Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged
Exhaust System
Valves Sticking Warped Valve Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve
Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring Valve Spring Cocked Contaminated Oil
Overheating Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation

Fan
Belt too Loose

Clogged
Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe

Oil
System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings

Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Cham­
bers
Poor Valve Seating Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring Tappets Adjusted too Close

Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Clogged
Lines Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak Piston Ring Oil Return
Holes
Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings

Oil
Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide (Intake)

Cylinder
Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road
Speeds
or Temperature
Crankcase
Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Out-of-Round

Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough

Lack
of Oil
Oil
Leakage
Dirty
Oil

Low
Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled
Passages
in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty Connecting Rod Bent 70

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.
SUBJEC

GENERAL
.... . . Dl-1 Oil Pump Cl(
ENGINE DESCRIPTION
D1-2

Engine
Mounts Dl-3

ENGINE REMOVAL
Dl-4
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Dl-5
Alternator
and Fan Belt Dl-11
Camshaft
.... Dl-26
Cooling Fan and Water Pump.
......
.Dl-12
Crankshaft
Front Oil Seal .Dl-21

Crankshaft
Pulley D1-17
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Dl-18

Cylinder
Head Assembly Dl-24

Distributor
Dl-9
Exhaust
Manifold .Dl-8

Flywheel
Dl-28

Flywheel
Housing and
Clutch
Dl-27
Fuel
Pump. ... . .Dl-10
Intake
Manifold and
Carburetor
Assembly.
.............
.Dl-7

Main
Bearing and Crankshaft. Dl-32 Mounting Engine on Engine Stand. . . . .Dl-6

Oil
Dipstick. Dl-16
Oil
Filter
Dl-13
Oil
Pan.. ...
.......
.Dl-29
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit Dl-15

Oil
Pump Dl-19
Oil
Pump Intake Pipe and Screen Dl-30
Piston and Rod Assembly. Dl-31
Push
Rod and Valve
Lifter.
.Dl-25
Rocker
Arm Cover Dl-23
Starter
Motor Dl-14

Timing
Chain
and Sprocket Dl-22
Timing
Chain
Cover Dl-20

ENGINE CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR
. . ... .Dl-33
Camshaft
Cleaning and Inspection Dl-55
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
and
Fitting .Dl-49

Crankshaft
Cleaning Dl-38
Crankshaft
Inspection and Repair Dl-39
Crankshaft
Main Bearing Cleaning
and
Inspection Dl-41

Crankshaft
Main Bearings. Dl-40

Crankshaft
Pulley Inspection. Dl-70
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Inspection. D1-69

Cylinder
Block .Dl-34
Cylinder
Block Cleaning Dl-35
Cylinder
Block Inspection Dl-36

Cylinder
Block Repair. .Dl-37
Cylinder
Head and Valve Repair .Dl-63

Cylinder
Head and Valve Cleaning
and
Inspection.. . .Dl-62

Flywheel
Cleaning and Inspection Dl-52

Flywheel
Housing Cleaning
and
Inspection Dl-54

Hydraulic
Valve
Lifter
Leakdown Test. .Dl-57
Main
Bearing Fitting or

Shim
Stock Dl-42, Dl-43

Oil
Pan Cleaning and Inspection .Dl-51
PAR.
and
Inspection. .... .Dl-68

Oil
Pump Intake and Screen Cleaning. . .Dl-50
Piston and Rod Assembly.
...........
.Dl-48
Piston and Rod Cleaning and Inspection.D1-45
Piston and Rod Disassembly Dl-44
Piston Fitting Dl-46
Piston Ring Fitting. .Dl-47

Ring
Gear
Replacement. .Dl-53
Rocker
Arm Assembly. Dl-60
Rocker
Arm Cleaning and Inspection. . .Dl-59

Rocker
Arm Cover Cleaning

and
Inspection D1-65

Rocker
Arm Disassembly .Dl-58
Timing
Chain
and Sprocket Inspection. . .Dl-66

Timing
Chain
Cover Cleaning

and
Inspection.. . Dl-67

Valve
Installation D1-64
Valve
Lifter
and Push Rod

Cleaning
and Inspection. . Dl-56

Valve
Removal Dl-61

ENGINE REASSEMBLY
Dl-71
Alternator
and Fan Belt Dl-96

Camshaft
Dl-80
Clutch
and Flywheel Housing Dl-79
Cooling Fan.. . .Dl-95
Crankshaft
End Play Check. . Dl-74

Crankshaft
Front Oil Seal Dl-85
Crankshaft
Pulley Dl-89
Crankshaft
Vibration Damper Dl-88
Cylinder
Block and Crankshaft
Rear
Oil Seals Dl-72

Cylinder
Head Assembly .Dl-82

Distributor
Dl-99

Exhaust
Manifold Dl-98
Flywheel
.Dl-78
Fuel
Pump.. .. . Dl-97
Intake
Manifold and Carburetor Assembly Dl-101

Main
Bearing and
Crankshaft
Installation
.
Dl-73

Oil
Filter
Dl-93
Oil
Level
Dipstick Dl-90

Oil
Pan Dl-77
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit Dl-91

Oil
Pump.. .Dl-87
Oil
Pump Intake and Screen Assembly. .Dl-76
Piston and Rod Installation Dl-75

Rocker
Arm Cover. Dl-83

Spark
Plugs.. Dl-100
Starter
Motor Dl-92
Timing
Chain
and Sprocket.
..........
.Dl-84

Timing
Chain
Cover Dl-86
Valve
Lifter
and Push Rod Dl-81

Water
Pump. Dl-94

ENGINE INSTALLATION
Dl-102

FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS.
D1-103

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
Dl-104
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
. .Dl-105 75

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
e.
Connect electrical wiring harness to coolant
temperature sending unit. Connect two distributor leads to ignition coil. Connect fuel line
between

fuel pump and carburetor, vacuum
hose
between
distributor and carburetor, and crankcase vent
hose

to intake manifold
below
rear
of carburetor.
FIG.
D1-46—-INTAKE
MANIFOLD
INSTALLATION

1—Long Bolt 2—Open Bolt Hole
Dl-102.
ENGINE INSTALLATION

Install
the
engine
in the vehicle in the following
procedure listed
below:

a.
Attach suitable sling to
engine
lifting
eyes
and,
using a hoist, lift the
engine
from blocks or
engine
stand.
b. When
engine
is free of the stand lower it slowly

into
the
engine
compartment of the vehicle.

Note:
The
engine
and transmission must be lined
up to
engage
the main shaft and clutch plate spline
while sliding the
engine
rearward
into
the mounting
position.
c.
Install
and tighten up
bolts
securing
engine
to
flywheel housing.

d.
Install
and tighten front
engine
mounting bolts.

e.
Remove sling from the
engine.

I.
Connect exhaust pipes to right and
left
engine
manifolds.
g. Connect choke cable support bracket to
car­

buretor.

h.
Connect
engine
fuel
hoses
and fuel lines at right
frame
rail.

I.
Connect fuel lines.

j.
Mount
engine
starter motor assembly to
engine.
k.
Connect battery cable and wiring to
engine

starter
motor.

I.
Connect
engine
wiring harnesses to connectors
located on
engine
firewall.

Note:
On
engines
equipped with exhaust emission
control, replace the air pump, air distributor mani­
fold, and anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F2.
m. Replace radiator, and secure with bolts,
n.
Replace and tighten right and
left
radiator sup­
port rods.
0. Connect upper and lower radiator
hoses
to the

engine.
p. Connect alternator wiring harness from connec­
tor at regulator,
q.
Replace air cleaner.
r.
Connect battery ground cable from the battery
to the
engine
and the
engine
ground strap,

s.
Replace the hood.

After
the
engine
is installed in the vehicle,
fill
radiator
with coolant and
engine
with oil (Refer to
Lubrication
Section B), then perform an
engine

Tune-up
and road
test
(Refer to Tune-up Sec­
tion C).

Dl-103.
FINAL IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS

a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery.
b.
Check
ignition wires and connections.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines.
f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary.

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary. 1.
Check
carburetor adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head
gaskets
and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 miles [800 km.]
of normal operation and again at 1000 miles [1600

km.].
k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.
I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak. 104

E

FUEL
SYSTEM
E-78. SERVICE DIHGNOSIS
Symptoms Probable Remedy

Excessive
Fuel
Consumption:
Tires
improperly inflated Inflate

Brakes
drag Adjust
Engine
operates too cold Check thermostat
Heat control valve inoperative Check thermostatic spring
Leak
in fuel line Check all connections

Carburetor
float level high. See
"Carburetor"
section
Accelerator pump not properly adjusted Adjust

Leaky
fuel pump diaphragm Replace
Loose
engine
mountings causing high carburetor fuel level Tighten Ignition timing slow or spark advance stuck See "Distributor" section

Low
compression. Check valve tappet clearance
Air
cleaner dirty
.
Remove and clean

Engine
Hesitates on Acceleration: Accelerator pump
does
not function perfectly.
...................
.Replace piston and rod or adjust
Carburetor
float level. ... .Adjust

Spark
plugs Replace or clean and adjust

Low
compression Check valves

Distributor
points—dirty or pitted Replace

Weak
condenser or coil Replace

Carburetor
jets restricted Remove and clean

Excessive
engine
heat See "Engine" section

Engine
Stalls—Won't Idle:
Improper
condition of carburetor See
"Carburetor"
section

Low
speed
jet restricted Remove and clean
Dirty
fuel sediment bowl screen Remove and clean

Air
cleaner dirty Remove and clean

Leaky
manifold or gasket Replace

Fuel
pump diaphragm porous. Replace
Loose carburetor. Tighten
flange
nuts

Water
in fuel
Drain
and clean system

Improper
ignition. .See "Distributor" section

Spark
plugs Clean and adjust

Valves
sticking.
Grind
valves 134

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

FIG.
H-l—ENGINE
GROUND
STRAP—F4
ENGINE
Fig.
H-l, is tight at both connections. If
these

connections are
loose
-
or
dirty,
hard
starting or
failure
to start may result.

H-3.
Ignition System

The
ignition system consists of the battery, ignition

switch,
ignition coil ballast resistor (V-6 engine
only),
ignition coil, ignition distributor,
spark
plugs,

and
the low and high tension wiring.
Electrical

energy is obtained from the battery while cranking
and
from the alternator after the engine is running.

These
supply circuits must be considered part of
the ignition system.

The
ignition system furnishes the
spark
-for the

spark
plugs. The
spark
must occur in each cylinder
at exactly the proper time. To accomplish this, the following units are required.

a.
The battery, supplying the electrical energy.
Note: 'Jeep* vehicles equipped with Dauntless

V-6
engines have a ballast resistor connected be­ tween the ignition switch and the positive (+)

terminal
of the coil. The ballast resistor limits to
a
safe maximum the
primary
current flow through
the coil and the distributor contact points.

b.
The ignition coil, transforming the battery low
tension current to high tension current that jumps
the
spark
plug gap in the cylinders under com­
pression.

c.
The distributor, delivering the
spark
to the

proper
cylinders and incorporates the mechanical

breaker,
that
opens
and closes the
primary
circuit at the exact time.

d.
The
spark
plugs, providing the gap in the engine
cylinders.

e. The wiring, connecting the various ignition
units.

f. The ignition switch controling the battery
current
when it is desired to start or
stop
the engine.
g. The firing order for the
Hurricane
F4 engine is
1-3-4-2.
Cylinder
No. 1 is the cylinder closest to the

radiator.

h.
The firing order for the Dauntless V-6 engine
is
1-6-5-4-3-2.
Cylinders
1-3-5 are on the left bank

and
cylinders 2-4-6 are on the right bank. H-4.
PRIMARY
CIRCUIT

Before testing the
primary
circuit,
make certain
that the battery is satisfactory or install a fully

charged
battery for the
primary
circuit
tests. Also,

check
the starter motor for excessive voltage drop

and
check the starter motor itself for excessive
draw.

a.
Measure the voltage at the coil
primary
termi­

nals
while cranking the engine with the starter
motor. If the voltage is less than 9 volts the trouble

will
be found in the
primary
circuit.
If there is no voltage at all, check for a break in the
primary

circuit,
possibly in the coil
primary
winding.

b.
To check the
primary
circuit,
turn
the ignition
on,
turn
the engine until the points are closed, and
then measure the voltage drop across each portion
of the circuit with a voltmeter.
Note: Most voltage drops
will
be found at the con­
nections of wires to terminals as
dirt,
oxidation etc. can cause excessive resistance at
these
points.

Measure
voltage drops in wires to take this into
account.

c.
Connect the voltmeter from the battery cable

terminal
on the starter solenoid to the battery

terminal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more than 0.2 volt, perform the checks given in
steps, d, e, and f following.

d.
Connect the voltmeter from the solenoid termi­

nal
to the battery terminal of the ignition switch.
If
the voltmeter reads more than .05 volt, check

and
clean the connections at solenoid, light switch,
and
ignition switch.
e. If the voltmeter reading in
step
d is less than .05 volt, connect the voltmeter from the battery

terminal
to the ignition terminal on the ignition
switch.
If the voltage drop is more than 0.1 volt,

repair
or replace the ignition switch.
f. If the voltage drop in
step
e is not more than 0.1 volt, connect the voltmeter from the ignition

terminal
of the ignition switch to the battery termi­

nal
of the coil
primary.
If the voltmeter reads more

than
.05 volt, clean and tighten the connections

and
check again. If the voltmeter again reads more

than
.05 volt, replace the wire.
g. Connect the voltmeter from the distributor
primary
terminal on the coil to the coil terminal on
the distributor. Voltage drop should not exceed .05 volt.
Clean
and tighten connections if necessary.

h.
Connect the voltmeter from the coil terminal
on the distributor to a clean,
paint-
free spot on the

distributor
body. The reading should not exceed .05
volt. If more, it indicates excessive resistance
through the points or in the distributor internal connections.
Clean
and align the points and make

sure
the breaker arm connection to the
primary

terminal
as well as the stationary contact point mounting in the body is clean and tight.

i.
Open the points and check the voltmeter. It
should read close to peak voltage. Low voltage in­ dicates that a circuit through the distributor (a

short)
exists while the points are open.

j.
Disconnect the condenser lead and open the points. A jump to
full
voltage indicates a short in 173

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
the condenser. Replace the condenser. If there is
no jump to full voltage, overhaul or replace the

distributor.

k.
With the points closed, connect the voltmeter

from
a clean, paint-free
post
on the distributor
body to the negative
post
of the battery. The volt­
age drop should be practically zero, a hardly
readable deflection on the voltmeter. If the volt­ meter registers a
voltage
drop, perform the checks

in
steps
1
and m following.

I.
Check
for
voltage
drop in the battery ground
cable.
Clean
the battery
post,
cable terminals, and contact surface on the bellhousing, or on body if

a
noticeable deflection of the voltmeter occurs,
m.
Check
for any
voltage
drop
between
the dis­

tributor
body and a clean, paint-free
spot
on the

cylinder
block. If there is any
voltage
drop, remove
the distributor and clean the mounting surfaces of
distributor
body and cylinder block.

H-5.
SECONDARY
CIRCUIT
If
satisfactory ignition is not obtainable with cor­

rect
point gap and tension; satisfactory condenser;
sufficient primary voltage; and correctly cleaned, gapped, and installed spark plugs; the secondary

circiut
should be investigated.

a.
Test the coil.
Bring
the coil up to operating
temperature using the coil heat feature of a coil tester, if available. Refer to the coil tester manu­

facturer's
instructions for specific hook-ups for
performing the checks given in
steps
b, c, and d following.
b. Connect the positive lead of the tester to the
battery terminal of the coil primary winding.
Con­
nect the tester ground lead to the coil tower. Mea­

sure
the resistance of the secondary winding. If the
resistance is more than
20,000
ohms, a fault in the
secondary winding is indicated.
c.
Check
for a grounded secondary by touching the tester ground lead to the coil cover. If resistance
is not over
100,000
ohms, the secondary is grounded
to the cover.

d.
If the secondary winding is satisfactory, mea­
sure
the primary current draw in accordance with
the instructions of the
test
equipment manu­
facturer.

e.
Check
the secondary circuit for leakage. With the coil primary in the circuit with the breaker unit of the tester, connect a long, high-tension
test
lead
to the coil tower.
Check
the secondary circuit for
leakage by performing the checks given in
steps
f. g, h, and i following.

Note:
In the following
tests,
a slight sparking and
meter deflection
will
usually be
seen
just as contact
is made.
This
is caused by capacitance and
does
not
indicate defective insulation.
f.
Check
distributor cap. Remove the coil lead from the cap and touch the
test
lead to the center contact
inside the cap. If the meter reading drops when the contact is touched or if sparking is seen, a leakage
path is present
between
the center contact and one
of the plug towers.
This
leakage path
will
be in the

form
of a
crack
or carbon track in the cap. Discon­ nect the spark plug wires from the cap one at a
time and
test
each plug contact with the high-
voltage
lead and with all other plug wires con­
nected. Any sparking or meter drop indicates that

a
leakage path exists
between
that particular con­
tact and an adjacent one. Testing the adjacent contacts
will
determine which pair is at fault,
g-
Check
distributor rotor. Touch the
test
lead to
the spring contact in the center of the distributor
rotor.
Any leakage in the rotor insulation
between

the contact and the shaft
will
cause a drop in the meter reading and usually sparking
will
be seen.

h.
Check
spark plug wires. Disconnect the spark
plug wires from the plugs and
test
the plug terminal of each. The meter reading should not drop below
the open secondary value (value before making contact). If it
does
or if a large spark occurs when
the
test
lead and the plug wire are separated, there
is a break in the insulation on that wire.

i.
Check
the coil tower insulation. Remove the
high-tension
test
lead from the coil tower and touch
the ground lead of the coil tester to several points

around
the base of the tower. Any sparking or deflection of the meter indicates a leakage path in
the tower insulation.

H-6.
Alternator Charging System

All
Jeep
Universal
Series vehicles have, as standard
equipment a 35-amp., 12-volt, negative ground
alternator and a transistorized
voltage
regulator.
For
repairing the alternator, many of its major components are furnished as complete assemblies

including:
complete brush assembly which requires no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete
rectifying
diode
assemblies which eliminate the need for removing and replacing individual diodes;

a
complete isolation
diode
assembly; and a rotor assembly complete with shaft,
pole
pieces, field coil,

and
slip rings.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is an electronic
switching device. It
senses
the
voltage
appearing at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining the system
voltage
at the output
terminal.
The out­
put current is determined by the battery electrical

load;
such as headlights, heater, etc.
The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced as a
complete unit.

H-7.
Starting System

The
operation of the starter motor is controlled by
the ignition switch. The starter is made up of a
frame,
field coil, armature, and brushes.

The
starter solenoid electrically
closes
the circuit

between
the battery and the starter motor. When the ignition key is turned to its extreme right, the
solenoid is energized and
closes
the battery-to- starter-motor circuit.

Note:
All Jeep Universal Series vehicles have the

starter
solenoid switch secured to the starter motor
assembly. The Hurricane F4 and Dauntless V-6

engine
Prestolite starter drive is of the inertia type
(rexr
continued on
page
176) 174

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

14365

FIG.
H-5—WIRING
DIAGRAM—F4
ENGINE
CURRENT
MODEL
1—
Left
Headlamp

2—
Left
Parking and Signal Lamp
3—
Right
Parking and Signal Lamp

4—
Right
Headlamp
5—
Marker
Lamp
— Amber
6—
Generator
7—
Distributor

8—
Ignition
Coil

9— Starting Motor
10— Battery Ground Cable
11—
12
Volt
Battery

12—
Flasher
(Directional Signal)
13— Instrument Cluster
A—Hi-Beam
Indicator

B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument Lights
D—Oil
Pressure
Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Indicator
G—Fuel
Gauge
Indicator
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
14—
Ignition
and
Starter
Switch
15—
Horn
Button 16—
Directional
Signal Switch 17— 4-Way
Flasher
Switch
18—
Flasher
(4-Way)
19—
Windshield
Wiper Motor Switch
20—
Main
Light
Switch

21—
Fuel
Gauge
Tank
Unit

22—
Back-Up
Light
Switch
23—
Marker
Lamp — Red 24—
Right
Tail
and Stop Lamp
25—
Right
Back-Up Lamp
26—
Left
Back-Up Lamp
27—
Right
Tail
and Stop Lamp
28—
Marker
Lamp — Red 29— Stop
Light
Switch
30— Foot Dimmer Switch

31—
Windshield
Wiper Motor Assembly

32—
Voltage Regulator
33— Temperature Sending
Unit

34—
Oil
Pressure
Sending
Unit

35— Spark
Plugs
&
Cables

36—
Horn

37— Junction Block
38—
Marker
Lamp — Amber
through a
two-position
push-pull switch located on
the
left
side
of the control panel.
The
foot-operated
headlight dimmer switch is
mounted on the floorboard to the
left
of the steering
column.

H-9.
PRESTOLITE
DISTRIBUTOR
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6 and

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

The
Prestolite distributor on the F4
engine
is
mounted on the right
side
of the
engine
and is op­
erated by a coupling on the oil pump shaft, see Fig.
D-l,
which is driven by a spiral gear on the cam­
shaft. The spark advance is fully automatic, being controlled by built-in centrifugal
weights.
The Pres­

tolite
distributor on the V-6
engine
(Fig. H-8) is mounted at the
left
front of the
engine
on the tim­
ing chain cover. It is driven by a spiral gear on the
camshaft. The spark advance is fully automatic,
being controlled by built-in centrifugal
weights,
and by a vacuum advance system. While
some
parts of the distributor may be checked or replaced
with the unit mounted on the
engine,
it is
best
to periodically remove it for a thorough check. Infor­ mation covering the parts which can be serviced
without removal is
given
below.
The
Prestolite distributor installed on the V-6 en­

gine
is similar in construction to the distributor in­
stalled on the F4
engines
except
for the addition of

a
vacuum advance mechanism.
The
same checking procedures outlined in Par. C- 10a, are used for the Prestolite V-6 distributor with

exception
of specifications.
H-10. Distributor Cap

The
distributor cap should be inspected for cracks,
carbon runners and
evidence
of arcing. If any of

these
conditions
exists, the cap should be replaced.
Clean
any corroded high
tension
terminals.

H-11.
Rotor
Inspect the rotor for cracks or
evidence
of
excessive

burning at the end of the metal strip.
After a distributor rotor has had normal use the
end of the rotor will
become
burned. If burning is found on top of the rotor it indicates the rotor is
too short and
needs
replacing. Usually when this condition is found the distributor cap
segment
will 178

ELECTRICALJ
SYSTEM

d.
Inspect for
excessive
wear
between
centrifugal

weights
and advance cam and pivot pins.
Turn
weight
base plate in a clockwise direction until
weights
are fully extended. Release and allow
springs to return
weights
to
retard
position. Repeat several times. Springs should return
weights
to
stop
without sticking and there should be no
excessive
free
movement
in the
retard
position. Inspect
springs for distortion and fatigue.
e. Inspect cam
lobes
for scoring or
excessive
wear.
Check
weight
base plate for binding or
excessive

looseness
on distributor shaft.

f.
Check
breaker plate for
excessive
looseness
on
outside
diameter of upper distributor shaft bushing.
Check
breaker plate ground lead for poor
spot
we
Id

at plate end and for
loose
or frayed terminal con­
nections.
g.
Check
for
excessive
wear
between
distributor
shaft and bushings in housing. Inspect shaft for distortion. Inspect gear for scoring of
teeth
or

excessive
wear.

h.
Inspect rod end of vacuum advance mechanism
for
excessive
wear. Push rod
into
unit as far as
possible, hold finger tightly over nipple, then re­
lease
rod. After about 15 seconds, remove finger
from nipple, and
notice
if air is drawn
into
unit.
If
not, diaphragm is leaking and unit must be
replaced.

H-29.
Distributor Reassembly

Refer
to Fig. H-l5.

a.
Install
distributor
primary
lead and rubber grommet in distributor housing. Mount vacuum
advance unit on housing with two
slotted
attaching
screws; insert ground lead terminal of breaker plate under outer mounting screw.
b.
Install
felt
washer over upper shaft bushing of
distributor housing and apply a few drops of light

oil.
Secure breaker plate to upper bushing with re­ tainer. See Fig. H-17.
12767

FIG.
H-17—INSTALLING
BREAKER
PLATE
ON
DISTRIBUTOR
HOUSING
(DELCO)

1—
Breaker
Plate
2—
Retainer

3—
Retainer
Groove
4—
Lubricant
Reservoir c.
Install
distributor cam and
weight
base plate
on distributor shaft.

d.
Insert distributor shaft
into
distributor housing.
Install
centrifugal advance
weights
and springs on

cam
and
weight
base plate. e. Fasten driven gear to shaft with pin. Be care­
ful
not to damage gear.

f.
Secure condenser and bracket to breaker plate
with
slotted
screw.
g.
Install
breaker point assembly over
boss
on
breaker
plate; secure with two
slotted
screws and
lock washers. Apply one drop of light oil to breaker

arm
pivot. Connect condenser and coil
primary

leads to breaker point assembly.

h.
Apply a small amount of high temperature cam

and
ball
bearing lubricant to a clean cloth; hold cloth against distributor cam while turning
distri­
butor shaft.

Caution:
Do not apply
excessive
grease. Petro­
leum jelly is not suitable as a distributor cam
lubri­
cant.

i.
Make preliminary adjustment of breaker point
gap, as described in Par. C-10.

].
Secure rotor to centrifugal timing advance mech­
anism with two screws, lock washers, and flat
washers.

Note:
The square and round
lugs
on the rotor must
be positioned in the corresponding
holes
in the

weight
base plate.
k. If a reliable distributor tester is available, check
the distributor to make certain that the centrifugal

and
vacuum advance mechanisms are operating
according to specifications.

Note:
Mount distributor in tester with all end play
of the distributor shaft in upward position; this

will
eliminate any possible drag
between
the centri­ fugal advance cam and
weight
base plate.

I.
Install
new
O-ring
seal on distributor housing.

H-30.
Distributor
Installation
and
Timing

a.
Insert distributor shaft
into
timing gear cover
of
engine
so that rotor is pointing to
mark
made on distributor base (Fig. H-14), with vacuum advance
unit pointing in exact, original direction (Fig.

H-18).

b.
Install
distributor clamp and
bolt
with lock
washer, leaving
bolt
just
loose
enough
to permit
movement
of the distributor with heavy hand
pressure.

C.
Connect
primary
wire to distributor side of coil.
Install
distributor cap on distributor housing. Press

screwdriver
into
upper
slotted
ends
of two cap
retainers.
Turn
retainers clockwise to secure cap to distributor.

d.
If
spark
cables were disconnected from
distri­

butor cap, connect them. Wires must be pushed

all
the way down
into
the distributor cap terminals
and
onto
the
spark
plugs. Nipples must be pushed
firmly
over the terminals;
boots
must be pushed

firmly
over the
spark
plugs. 186

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188