remove seats JEEP CJ 1953 Service Manual

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

C

FIG.
C-22—-CHECKING
FUEL
PUMP
PRESSURE
—
DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE a
couple of strokes to be sure the pump is primed.

Using
a half-pint
bottle
or similar measure, pump
Vi
pint [0,24 It] of fuel by cranking the
engine

with
the starter motor. Count the strokes neces­
sary
to
fill
the measure. If more than 20 strokes

are
required, the fuel pump is inefficient, the tank
line is leaking air, or the fuel supply is restricted.

Check
fuel filter in the fuel tank if line is restricted.

C-24.
Check Manifold Vacuum

To
check the intake manifold vacuum on the
Hurri­

cane F4 engine, remove the ventilation valve and

L
fitting from the manifold and install special adapter. On the Dauntless V-6
engine
remove the
pipe plug located in the right
rear
of the intake
FIG.
C-23—CHECKING MANIFOLD VACUUM
—

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
manifold and install special adapter. Connect the

vacuum
gauge
tube to the special adapter as shown

in
Fig. C-23 for the
Hurricane
F4 engine.

Start
the engine. Connect a Tachometer
Tool,

C-3896,
from the distributor
primary
terminal to ground and set the
engine
speed at the specified

rpm.
given in Par. C-30. Observe the vacuum
read­

ing and interpret as follows:

a.
A steady reading from 18" to 20" [457 a 508
mm.] of mercury is a normal reading, indicating
that valve and
spark
timing, valve seating, and
piston ring sealing are all satisfactory.
b. A steady but below normal reading indicates

a
condition common to all cylinders such as a

leak
at the carburetor gasket, late ignition or valve
timing, or uniform piston ring and bore wear.

c.
A slowly fluctuating or drifting reading in­ dicates that the carburetor idle mixture is incorrect

Look
for the cause in the fuel system.

d.
A rhythmic pulsating reading is caused by a
condition affecting one or more cylinders, but not

all,
and indicates leaky valve, gasket blowby, re­
stricted intake port, or an electrical miss.
e. An intermittent pulsating reading is caused by

an
occasional malfunction, such as a sticking valve
(all
valves may be
erratic
in operation if the valve
springs are weak), electrical miss caused by insuffi­
cient distributor point tension or low coil
voltage

coupled with inconsistent
spark
plug
gaps
or fouled
plugs, or
dirt
in the fuel system finding its way into
passages of
critical
size or valve
seats
in the
car­

buretor.

f.
A normal reading that quickly falls off (with

engine
running at
2000
rpm.) indicates exhaust
back
pressure caused by a restriction in the exhaust
system.

g.
Make indicated corrections to bring vacuum to 18" to 20" [457 a 508 mm.] of mercury normal

reading.

C-25.
Carburetor Adjustments

•
Refer to Fig. C-24, C-25 and C-26.

Carburetor
adjustments should not be attempted

until
it is known that
engine
ignition and com­
pression are in
good
order. Any attempt to adjust

or
alter the carburetor to compensate for faulty conditions elsewhere
will
result in reduced econ­
omy and overall performance.

Caution:
If an
engine
is idling too slow or rough,
this may be caused by a
clogged
ventilator valve

or
hose;
therefore, never adjust the carburetor idle
without first checking the crankcase ventilator
check valve and
hose.

The
air cleaner must be left in place while making
idle speed and mixture adjustments. All lights and accessories, must be turned off. The positive
crank­

case ventilator system should also be in
good
oper­
ating condition when making carburetor adjust­ ments.
Either
of
these
items noticeably affects the

air
fuel ratio at idle.

•
Hurricane
F4 Engine.
Note:
The idle mixture adjustment procedure for
the late model
YF-4941S
and
YF-6115S
Carter

31

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley.
Timing

gears are accessible for inspection or replacement

with
the
engine
installed in the vehicle after re­ moving the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.

Should
it be necessary to replace the timing gears, attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running

clearance
of both gears. It is also advisable to
check
both the oil jet and oil passage to the
crank­

shaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.

D-55.
Inspection and
Repair

Check
the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recom­ mended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good
seal around the crankshaft. To replace this

seal
with the
engine
in the vehicle
requires
removing
the radiator and water pump.

D-56.
Valves, Springs, and Guides

The
exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder

block
with the
stems
extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled

and
locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve
stems
and into the taper

in
the valve spring retainers.

Adjustment
of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting
screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve.
This
valve rotator,
known
as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded
ball

bearing
device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a
valve, the rotator
gives
the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.

The
intake valves operate in valve
guides
in the
cylinder
head and are actuated by rocker arms.

The
rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods

and
the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs,
the intake valve spring retainers, and the

intake
valve spring retainer locks make up the

remainder
of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the

upper
end of the intake valve
between
the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re

tainer,
controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.

Note:
When
engine
trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check

all
vacuum line connections for possible leaks.

D-57.
Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and
Guides

Clean
the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that

all
carbon is removed from the top and the under­
side of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits
are removed from the stems.
Polish
the valve
stems
with steel wool or crocus

cloth.
Visually
inspect all valves for warpage,

cracks,
or excessive burning and discard if one of

these
conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,

or
corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire
brush.
Replace any valves when
seats
are pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a valve refacing machine.

Replace
valves with marks of scoring or abrasion visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent

stems
which
will
be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.

Note:
Use only hard-face exhaust valves for
replacement.

Examine
the
stems
of valves which employ the
ball
bearing rotators.
Wear
marks around the
cir­

cumference of the
stems
indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily.
Vertical
heavy pressure

areas
indicate that the valve is not rotating and the valve spring retainer (Roto
Cap)
should be replaced

if
at fault.
Check
the diameter of the valve stem at two or three places along the length of the stem

with
a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a
9,495
mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423
a
9,449
mm.].

Note:
Exhaust
and intake valve springs are

similar
in appearance. They must not be inter­
changed as they have different spring
charac­

teristics.

Wash
the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.

Visually
examine the springs and replace any that

are
deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for

corrosion
from moisture or acid etching which might
FIG.
D-19—TESTING
VALVE
SPRING

1—
Torque
Wrench

2—
Spring
Testing
Fixture

3—
Valve
Spring
54

D

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-2
2—REFACING
VALVES
1—
Valve
Refacer

2—
Valve
a
dial
indicator as shown in
Fig.
D-21 after refacing.

The
valve seat should not be out of round more

than
.002"
[0,051
mm.]. A simple check can be
made in the absence of a
dial
indicator by spreading
a
thin coat of pencil lead or bearing-fitting blue on
the valve face and then inserting the valve into the valve seat.
With
hand pressure, rotate the valve

a
quarter
turn
and then remove the valve and ob­
serve the transfer of blue (or pencil lead) to the valve seat. An uneven transfer
will
indicate an

inaccurate
valve and valve seat refacing operation.

After
the seat is ground, check its width with a
seat width scale or a steel scale placed across the
face of the seat. The valve seat width after refacing
should measure [2,3 mm.] and not wider than
y%"
[3,2 mm.]. Valve seat width is
vital.
Too wide

a
seat can cause seat burning as it
tends
to trap

and
hold carbon particles. Seats that are too
narrow

will
not transfer heat to the coolant rapidly enough to keep the valves in proper operating condition.

When
a valve seat has been refaced several times

or
where it must be cut deeply for adequate recon­
ditioning, the seat may
become
too wide for efficient
operation. Narrow the seat without changing its
position in relation to the valve face by using a
valve seat relief counterbore above the seat and a valve seat narrowing cutter below the seat. These
operations are performed only after the valve
seats
have been refaced and then only when necessary.

The
finished valve seat should contact the approxi­mate center of the valve face.
Check
by applying

an
extremely thin coat of pencil lead or bearing-
fitting blue to the seat.
Then
install and rotate the
valve with light pressure. Blue (or pencil
marks)

will
transfer to the face of the valve. If the blue
is near the top
edge
of the valve face, lower the valve seat by using the valve seat relief counter-
bore. If the blue is transferred to the
bottom
edge

of the valve face, raise the seat by using the valve
seat narrowing cutter.

When
the valve seat can no longer be corrected, it
is advisable to investigate installing seat inserts.

D-60.
Exhaust
Valve Seat Insert Replacement

Hardened
valve seat inserts for exhaust valves
will

seldom require replacement. To avoid damaging the blcck, remove an insert with a tool designed for
this purpose.

When
installing a new insert, make certain the
counterbore is clean and smooth. Use a driver that

will
keep the insert in true alignment with the bore.

Cool
the insert and the installing tool with dry ice
for 30 minutes.

Note:
The insert should be sufficiently cooled
to permit installation with light taps; excessive

driving
of the insert may cock it in the counterbore

or
crack the insert.

Make
certain the valve seat is facing out.
Drive

in
the insert with the tool until it
bottoms
in the counterbore. After installation, grind the valve
seat at an angle of 45° and then check with a
dial

indicator
as shown in Fig. D-21.
D-61.
Valve Guide Replacement

Damaged,
loose,
or worn valve
guides
must be re­

placed.
Use valve guide driver W-238 or equivalent
to drive out the old guides. When replacing valve
guides, maximum
engine
performance can be se­

cured
only when the guide is positioned correctly
FIG.
D-23—VALVE
GUIDE
DRIVER

FIG.
D-24—VALVE
GUIDE
POSITIONS

1—Flush
at
this
point
2—One
Inch
[25
mm.
I

56

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl Caution:
Oil ports of the rocker arm shaft must
coincide with oil return passages of the rocker

arms.
If they do not,
engine
oil has no return path

from
the cylinder head to the crankcase; in that
case,
engine
oil flows down the valve
stems
and

burns
in the cylinders.
There
is a notch at one end of each rocker arm shaft. When rocker arms
are
properly installed on the shaft, this notch
will

be at front of right rocker arm shaft and at
rear
of left rocker arm shaft. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-25 and

Dl-26.

a.
Position center support on rocker arm shaft;

insert
one shaft assembly attaching bolt through
support and shaft to hold support in position.

b.
Install
center
pair
of rocker arms with notched
faces touching support.
Install
front and
rear
spacer
FIG.
Dl-25—FRONT
OF RIGHT

ROCKER
ARM SHAFT
1—Alignment Notch

FIG.
Dl-26—REAR OF
LEFT
ROCKER
ARM SHAFT 2—Alignment Notch springs and one rocker arm each of front and
rear

rocker
arm pairs on shaft. Be certain that notched
faces of rocker arms are outward.
Install
outer shaft supports on shaft; compress spacer springs
to position supports. Insert one shaft assembly bolt
through each support and shaft to hold supports in
position.

c.
Install
remaining rocker arms of front and
rear

pairs,
each with notched face touching shaft sup­

port.
Install
a spring retaining ring and flat washer at each end of shaft; secure each of
these
with a
new cotter pin.

D1 -61.
Valve Removal

a.
Place cylinder head on clean, smooth surface.

b.
Remove each valve assembly from cylinder
head as follows. Using suitable spring compressor, compress valve spring and remove two valve re­

tainers
from valve stem. Release spring compressor,

and
remove spring retainer and valve spring from
valve stem. Refer to Fig. Dl-27.

Note:
Valve retainers are copper-colored for identi­
fication purposes only.

c.
Withdraw valve from
bottom
of cylinder head.
Valves
should be identified so they can be installed

in
original location.

D1-62.
Cylinder
Head and Valve Cleaning
and
Inspection

a.
Remove carbon from combustion chamber of
cylinder
heads, using care to avoid scratching the head of valve seat surfaces. A
soft
wire brush is
suitable for this purpose.

b.
Clean
carbon and gum
deposits
from valve guide
bores with a standard-size valve guide reamer.

Refer
to Fig. Dl-28.

c.
Clean
valves with a wire
brush.
Inspect valve
faces and
seats
for pits, burned
spots
or other evi­ dence of poor seating.
FIG.
D1 -2 7—REMOVING
VALVE
RETAINERS
1—
Valve
Stem 3—Valve Spring Retainer

2—
Valve
Lock
4—Valve Spring
93

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Note:
During
engine
reassembly, use Perfect Seal

Aerosol
Spray Sealer
Part
No.
994757
on all en­
gine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline

and
water leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers, water pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and
heater
hose
connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and
oil
line connections, stud bolts, spark plug threads,

and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufac­
turer's
instructions on container for proper appli­
cation procedure.

Dl-72.
Cylinder
Block
and Crankshaft
Rear
Oil Seals

Braided
fabric seals are pressed into
grooves
of
cylinder
block and
rear
main bearing cap, to
rear

of the oil collecting groove, to seal against oil leak­ age at the crankshaft. Refer to Fig. Dl-32.

FIG.
Dl-32—INSTALLING
CRANKSHAFT REAR
OIL
SEAL

1—Neoprene
Seal
2—Fabric
Seal

A
neoprene composition (stick) seal is installed in
grooves
in the sides of the
rear
main bearing cap
to seal against leakage in the joints
between
the
cap and cylinder block. The neoprene composition
expands in the presence of oil and heat.
This
seal
is undersize when newly installed. Refer to Fig.

Dl-32.

a.
The braided fabric seal can be installed in the

cylinder
block only when the crankshaft is re­ moved; however, the seal in the cap can be replaced
whenever the cap is removed. Remove oil seal and place new seal in groove, with both ends projecting
above parting surface of cap. Force seal into
groove

by rubbing down with hammer handle or smooth
stick
until seal projects above the
groove
not more

than
[1,59 mm.]. Cut ends off flush with
sur­

face of cap, using sharp knife or razor blade.
Lubricate
the seal with heavy
engine
oil just before
installation.

Caution:
The
engine
must be operated at slow
speed when first started after new braided seal
has been installed.
b. The neoprene composition seal is slightly longer

than
the
grooves
in the bearing cap. The seal must
not be cut to length. The seals are installed after the bearing cap is installed in the block and torqued
firmly
in place. Dip the neoprene seals in kerosene
approximately IV2 minutes, then install seals into
bearing cap grooves. The protruding ends of the seals are, again, squirted with kerosene, wiped off,

and
peaned over with a hammer to be sure of a
seal
at the upper parting line
between
the cap and

cylinder
block.

Dl-73.
Main
Bearing and Crankshaft
Installation

Refer
to Fig. Dl-6.

This
procedure assumes that crankshaft main bear­
ings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,

or
that new crankshaft main bearings of appropriate size have been selected. If necessary, check or select
main
bearings as described in Par. Dl-41 and
Pars.

Dl-42 and Dl-43.

a.
Install
four upper main bearing halves in
seats

of cylinder block so that prong of each bearing half
fits into corresponding notch of seat. Flanged thrust
bearing must be installed in the second seat from
front of engine.
Install
a new upper crankshaft
rear
oil seal in the cylinder block as described in

Par.
Dl-72.

Caution:
Upper main bearing halves have an oil groove, while lower halves are plain. They must
not be interchanged.
b. Apply
engine
oil to upper bearing surfaces.

Install
the crankshaft so that its four journals rest

in
the upper bearing halves.
c. Seat all four lower main bearing halves in cor­
responding bearing caps.
Install
a new lower
crank­

shaft
rear
oil seal and cylinder block
rear
oil seal
described in
Par.
Dl-72, a and b.
Lubricate
all lower

main
bearing surfaces with
engine
oil. Position bear­ ing caps to cylinder block and crankcase journals.

Install
two cap bolts,
loosely,
at each cap.

d.
It is necessary to align thrust surfaces of the
second main bearing whenever it has been removed

from
the engine. To do this, pry the crankshaft

back
and forth several times, throughout its entire end travel, with cap
bolts
of second main bearing
only finger tight.
e. Tighten alternate cap
bolts
of each main bearing

cap,
a little at a time, until they have been tight­ ened to 80 to 110 lb-ft. [11,1 a 15,2 kg-m.] torque.
D1-74. Crankshaft End Play Check

To
measure crankshaft end play, mount a dial
indicator
on the cylinder block and index its plung­

er
to either a front or
rear
face of one crankshaft
counterweight. Pry the crankshaft to one limit
of its end travel and adjust the dial indicator to
zero. Pry the crankshaft to its
opposite
end travel

limit
and
note
end play as indicated by the dial

indicator.
Crankshaft end play tolerances are .004"
to .008" [0,102 a
0,204
mm.]. If end play is too great, it can be corrected only by replacement of
the second main (thrust) bearing.

Dl-75.
Piston and Connecting Rod
Installation

This
procedure assumes that connecting rod bear­ ings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,

or
that new connecting rod bearings of appropriate 96

E

FUEL
SYSTEM
pressing downward on metering rod) or
seats
be­
fore the metering rod arm makes flat contact with the pump lifter link, make adjustment by bending
the lip on the metering rod arm.

E-17.
Choke System

The
choke system consists of a manually-operated
choke valve, a fast-idle connecting rod, and a fast-
idle arm. The choke valve is offset-spring loaded to prevent over-choking during the starting warm-
up period. When the choke valve is moved to a closed position for starting, the fast idle connector

rod
in Fig. E-ll revolves the fast idle link.
This
action increases the
engine
idle speed to prevent stalling during the warm-up period. A fast-idle
connector rod return spring prevents partial closing
of the choke valve. pump lifter which is connected to the throttle.

This
movement forces fuel from the chamber
above the diaphragm through discharge pump check valve and discharge pump jet.
This
auxiliary discharge of fuel supplies
engine
requirements for

quick
acceleration and heavy loads. When the
throttle is closed, the diaphragm is again pulled
down by high vacuum and another measured
charge of fuel enters the chamber above the
diaphragm
through the intake passage to be
available for the next cycle of operation.

Note:
The pump jet (see insert drawing in Fig.

E-12)
projecting into the air stream is permanently pressed into the carburetor body and should not
be removed. Also, carburetor design makes it im­ possible to adjust the pump stroke.
FIG.
E-ll—FAST
IDLE
ADJUSTMENT

1—Fast
Idle
Connector Rod
2—Fast
Idle
Link
E-18.
Fast
Idle Adjustment

With
the choke held in wide open position, lip (No. 1) (Fig.
E-ll)
on the fast-idle rod should con­
tact the
boss
on the body casting. Adjust by bend­
ing the fast-idle link at
offset
as shown by (No. 2).

E-19.
Accelerating Pump System

The
accelerating pump system shown in Fig. E-12
provides a measured amount of fuel for rapid acceleration and smooth
engine
operation when
the throttle is opened at lower speeds. In operation,
vacuum
is applied to the underside of diaphragm
at all times when the
engine
is running.
Lower

and
more uniform vacuum is provided by vacuum
restriction
and vacuum bleed passage. When the
diaphragm
is in its maximum down position at
low throttle resulting from high vacuum in chamber the chamber above the diaphragm is full of fuel

which
has been admitted through intake passage.
When
the throttle is opened, vacuum drops in the
chamber and the diaphragm is initially forced
upward
by the spring on the diaphragm shaft.
The
upward motion is picked up by accelerator
|
13347

FIG.
E-12—ACCELERATING
PUMP
SYSTEM

1—
Pump
Fuel
Passage
6—Intake
Passage

2—
Discharge
Pump Jet 7—Diaphragm

3—
Pump
Check
Valve
Ball
8—Vacuum Chamber 4—
Bail
Check
Weight
9—Vacuum
Restriction
Jet

5—
Pump
Lifter
Arm 10—Vacuum Bleed Passage
E-20.
Accelerating Pump Maintenance

If
engine
acceleration is unsatisfactory, remove the
pump diaphragm and check the diaphragm for wear

or
damage. Then remove the pump check retainer
ring
located directly above the pump check weight

and
pump ball check. Pump ball check must seat

properly
as a leak
will
cause poor acceleration performance. Inspect and replace all worn or
damaged parts.
Clean
and blow out all passages

with
compressed air.
Note
that when testing the pump for discharge volume with the carburetor
off the engine, only half of the maximum pump capacity
will
be discharged. When the
engine
is
operating, vacuum controls the balance of dis­ charge. 116

'Jeep9
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

E
exterior moving parts of a carburetor are
often

responsible for unsatisfactory performance.
For
this

reason,
efficient carburetion depends upon careful cleaning and inspection while servicing.

a.
Thoroughly clean carburetor castings and metal
parts
in carburetor cleaning solvent.

Caution:
Accelerator pump plunger and any fiber

or
rubber parts should never be immersed in
car­

buretor
cleaner. Wash pump plunger in cleaning
solvent.

b.
Blow out all passages in the castings with com­
pressed air. Dry all parts with compressed air.

Make
sure all jets and passages are clean. Do
not use wire to clean fuel passages or air bleeds.

c.
Check
inlet valve
needle
and seat for wear. If

wear
is noted, the assembly must be replaced.

d.
Check
float hinge pin for wear and check float
for damage.

e.
Check
throttle and choke shaft bores for wear

and
out-of-round.
f. Inspect idle mixture adjustment
needles
for
burrs
or
grooves; replace if damaged.
g. Inspect cup of accelerator pump plunger; re­
place if damaged, worn, or hardened. Inspect pump

well
in bowl for wear or scoring.

h.
Check
filter screens for
dirt
or lint.
Clean,
and

if
they remain
clogged,
replace.

i.
If for any reason parts have
become
loose
or
damaged in the cluster assembly, the assembly
must be replaced.

Note:
Use ijew gaskets whenever the carburetor
is disassembled.

E-37.
Throttle Body Assembly
a.
Install
idle mixture adjustment
needles
and
springs in throttle body. Tighten finger-tight, then
unthread
one
turn
as a preliminary adjustment
setting.

Caution:
Do not force idle mixture adjustment
needles
against
seats
or damage may result.

b.
Invert
fuel bowl body and place new throttle
body gasket on bowl. Fasten throttle body to bowl
body with three screws and lockwashers; tighten

securely.

E-38.
Fuel
Bowl Body Assembly

a.
Drop steel discharge check
tall
of accelerator
pump into discharge hole.
Install
pump discharge

spring
and T-shaped retainer. Stake retainer in
place.

Note:
Top of retainer must be flush with flat

surface
of fuel bowl body.

b.
Install
two inserts in main well. Align surface
on lip of insert with flat surface in recess on top
of main well.
Install
venturi cluster with gasket,

and
tighten mounting screws evenly and securely.

Be
certain that center screw is fitted with fiber gasket, and that a special smooth shank screw is
used.
c.
Install
two main metering jets, power valve
gasket and power valve.

d.
Install
small aluminum inlet check
ball
in ac­

celerator
pump inlet at
bottom
of pump well. In­

sert
pump return spring into well, and center by
pressing spring downward with finger.

e.
Install
pump inlet screen in
bottom
of fuel

bowl.

E-39.
Air
Horn Body
Assembly

a.
Install
choke lever and collar on choke shaft.

Prong
on choke lever must face away from air

horn
body and be on top of choke trip lever.
b.
Install
choke shaft and lever assembly into the

air
horn. Choke rod
hole
in the choke lever must
face fuel inlet side of carburetor.

c.
Install
choke valve plate in choke shaft so that
letters RP
will
face upward in finished carburetor.
Install
two new valve plate attaching screws, but
do not tighten securely until valve plate is centered.

To
center choke valve plate on choke shaft, hold
choke valve tightly closed, then slide choke shaft

inward
to obtain approximately .020" [0,508 mm.]

clearance
between
choke trip lever and choke lever

and
collar assembly. Tighten choke valve screws

securely,
and stake lightly in place. Choke valve

will
be perfectly free in all positions when installed
correctly.

d.
Insert
outer accelerator pump lever and shaft as­ sembly into air horn body, with lever pointing to­

ward
choke shaft.
Install
inner pump arm, with plunger
hole
inward,
and tighten set screw securely.
Position pump plunger assembly on inner pump
arm,
with pump shaft pointing
inward,
and install

retainer.

e.
Install
needle
seat screen on inlet valve seat. In­

stall
seat and gasket in air horn body. Tighten seat
securely with a wide-blade screwdriver.
f.
Install
power piston into vacuum cavity.
Lightly
stake piston retainer washer in place. Piston should

travel
freely in cavity.
g.
Install
air horn gasket on air horn body, fitting
gasket over guide pin.

h.
Attach inlet valve
needle
to float.
Carefully

position float and insert float hinge pin. Drop tang
at
rear
of float arm downward toward air horn.

i.
Install
fuel inlet fitting, if removed.

j.
With
air horn assembly inverted, measure the distance from the air horn gasket to top of float
at toe \%£f [27,78 mm.] for standard carburetors

and
\%i [29,36 mm.] for exhaust emission control
equipped carburetors, as shown in Fig. E-23. Use
float level
gauge
J-5127-2. Bend float arm as re­

quired
to adjust float level.

k.
With
air horn body held upright, measure dis­
tance from gasket to
bottom
of float
pontoon
at outer end. Use a l7/s" [47,625 mm.] float drop

gauge.
Bend float tang, as required, to adjust float

drop.
See Fig. E-24.

I.
Carefully
place air horn body on fuel bowl
body, making certain that the accelerator pump
plunger is properly positioned in the pump well.
Lower
the cover gently, straight down; install air 123

FRONT
AXLE

FIG.
M-l
1—FRONT
STEERING

KNUCKLE

(With
Spicer Universal Joint)
1—
Wheel
Hub Cap

2—
Driving
Flange Cap Screw

3—
Axle
Shaft Drive Flange Gasket 4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup
5—
Front
Wheel Spindle
6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Front
Brake
Cylinder

8—
Brake
Backing Plate

9—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap
10—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap Nut
11—
Pivot
Pin 12—
Pivot
Bearing Adjusting Shims

13—
Pivot
Pin Cone and Rollers
14—
Steering
Knuckle
Oil Seal 15—
Front
Axle Universal Joint
16—
Thrust
Washer
17—
Brake
Backing Plate Screw
18—
Brake
Shoe and
Lining

19—
Hub
Oil Seal
20—
Wheel
Hub Bolt Nut
21—
Wheel
Bearing Cone and Rollers 22—
Wheel
Bearing Washer

23—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
24—
Wheel
Adjusting Nut
Lock
Washer
25—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
26—
Snap
Ring

c.
Install
the wheel bearing spindle and bushing.
d.
Install
brake backing plate.
e.
Grease and assemble wheel bearings and oil

seal.
Install
the wheel hub and drum on the wheel
bearing
spindle.
Install
the wheel bearing washer
and
adjusting nut. Tighten nut with
Wrench
W-144
as shown in
Fig.
M-5, until there is a slight drag on the bearings when the hub is turned.
Then
back off approximately one-sixth of a
turn.
Install
lock

washer
and nut, tightening nut
into
place, and then bend lip of lock washer over on the locknut.
f.
Install
drive
flange
and gasket on hub and attach
with
six cap screws and lock washers.
Install
snap

ring
on outer end of axle shaft.

g.
Install
hub cap.
h.
Install
the wheel, lug nuts, and wheel disc.
i.
If
tube
was installed with axle assembly on
vehicle, check front wheel alignment (Section O),
bleed brakes (Section P), and lubricate front axle

universal
joints (Section B).

M-12.
FRONT
AXLE
INSTALLATION

To
install the front axle, reverse the procedures described in
Par.
M-4 and then perform the follow­
ing operations:

a.
Torque spring clip plate (U-bolt) nuts securing the axle to the front springs, (see Par. M-4).

b.
Adjust and bleed the brakes (see Section P).

c.
Check
axle lubricant level and
fill
as necessary, (see Section B).

d.
Check
front end wheel alignment (see Section
O).
e.
Check
wheel turning angle. Refer to Par. M-14.
M-13.
Steering
Tie Rod and
Bell Crank

These
parts of the front axle are covered in Sec­
tion O.
M-14.
4-Wheel Drive
Turning
Angle

Adjustment
and service information regarding
turning
angles
is covered in Section O.

M-15.
2-WHEEL-DRIVE
FRONT
AXLE
The
front axle is of the reverse
Elliot
type. It is a
steel forging, heat treated for strength and ma­
chined
to
close
limits. The steering knuckles are
mounted on pins which pass through
openings
at each end of the
"I"
beam and are locked securely

in
position with tapered pins and nuts. The knuckles

ride
on
ball
thrust bearings for
ease
of steering. See
Figs.
M-12, M-13.

The
knuckles are connected by a tie rod which is
mounted on
ball
and socket connections. The tie

rod
is adjustable to secure correct
toe-in
of the front wheels. A steering connecting rod
connects

the
left
knuckle arm with the steering gear arm.

Standard
caster and camber of the front
wheels
are
built
into
the front axle. Wheel camber cannot
be changed however, caster can be adjusted by

placing
tapered shims or
wedges
between
the
springs and spring seats. For
complete
information

regarding
the steering
geometry
refer to the
Section O.

M-16.
Removal of Solid
Front
Axle

Note:
The procedure for removing the solid front
axle varies slightly, depending on whether the
springs are slung under or over the axle. These

variations
are
noted
in the following procedure.

a. -
Raise the front end of the vehicle and safely support the frame behind the springs.

b.
Remove the
wheels
by removing the wheel
discs and lug nuts.

c.
Disconnect the steering connecting rod at the
ball
and socket connection on the steering knuckle. 282

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

P
f. On vehicles without a transmission brake hold
the brake
shoes
in their relative position and
engage
the parking brake cable
into
the parking

brake
lever.
g. On vehicles without a transmission brake in­
stall
the parking brake strut and spring
between

the parking brake lever and the primary
shoe.

h.
Place the brake
shoes
on the backing plate and

install
the retainer pins, springs and retainers.

i.
Install the anchor pin plate.

j.
Install the lever and
sleeve
on the primary
shoe
then install the secondary return spring, then the
primary
return spring.

Important:
A
"L"
or "R" is located on the hex­

agon
side of the lever crank for identification. The
lever crank marked "R" applies to the primary
shoe
on the
left
rear brake assembly. The lever
crank
marked
"L"
applies to the primary
shoe
on
the right rear brake assembly.
k. Place the upper linkage rod in the
groove
of the
anchor pin and
engage
the hook of the link rod
into

the adjusting lever.

I.
Install the brake drum. Install the wheel and

tire
assembly.
m. Adjust the brakes as described
below.

P-19.
Brake
Shoe
Initial
Adjustment —

a.
Should wheel brake units have
been
disassem­ bled for any reason, an initial adjustment
MUST
be made
before
drum installation.

b.
When the brake parts have
been
installed in
their correct position, initially adjust the adjusting
screw assemblies to a point where approximately Y% [9,53 mm.] of threads are
exposed
between
the

star
wheel and star wheel nut.

Note:
Following the initial adjustment and final
assembly, check brake pedal height to ensure

brake
operation. Then drive the car in reverse and
FIG.
P-12—BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
1—
Star
Wheel
2—
Lever

3—
Screwdriver
4—
Brake
Adjusting Tool
forward,
making 10 to 15 brake applications prior
to road testing.
This
action balances the adjust­
ment of the four brake units and raises the brake
pedal.
c. Adjustment may be made manually by remov­ing the access
slot
cover and using a brake adjust­
ing
tool
or screw driver to rotate the star wheel
until
the wheel is in the locked position. To tighten, rotate the star wheel in the clockwise direction.
Then
back off the star wheel at least 15 to 20

notches
(clicks).

d.
To back off the star wheel on the brake, insert
ice pick or thin blade screw driver in adjusting screw
slot
to hold lever away from adjusting screw.

Back
off on adjusting screw until wheel and drum

turn
freely. Replace adjusting
hole
cover.

Caution:
DO NOT attempt to back off on ad­
justing screw without holding adjuster lever away from screw as adjuster
will
be damaged.
P-20. Master Cylinder Reconditioning —
Dual
System

Refer
to Fig. P-13.

DISASSEMBLY
a.
Remove the filler cap and empty all fluid.
b.
Remove the snap ring, push rod assembly, and
the primary and secondary piston assemblies. Air pressure applied in the piston
stop
hole
will
help
facilitate the removal of the secondary piston as­
sembly.
c. The residual check valves are located under
the front and rear fluid
outlet
tube
seats.

d.
The
tube
seats
must be removed with the
self-

tapping screws supplied in the repair kit to permit removal of the check valves. Screw the self-tapping
screws
into
the
tube
seats
and place two screw

driver
tips under the screw head and force the
screw upward as shown in Fig. P-14.
e. Remove the expander in the rear secondary cup, secondary cups, return spring, cup protector,
pri­

mary
cup, and washer from the secondary piston.
f. The primary piston, with the rubber cups in­ stalled, is supplied in the repair kit.

CLEANING
a.
After disassembly, immersion of all metal parts
in
clean brake fluid or a brake system cleaner is
recommended. Use air
hose
to blow out dirt and cleaning solvent from recesses and internal pas­

sages.
When overhauling a hydraulic brake unit,
use all parts furnished in the repair kit. Discard
all
old rubber parts.

b.
After cleaning, place
all"
hydraulic
system parts
on clean paper or in a clean pan.

INSPECTION
Inspect all other parts for damage or
excessive

wear.
Replace any damaged, worn, or chipped
parts.
Inspect hydraulic cylinder bore for
signs
of
scoring, rust, pitting, or etching. Any of
these
will
require
replacement of the hydraulic cylinder. 331

BRAKES

12519

FIG.
P-13—DOUBLE
SAFETY MASTER CYLINDER
1— Boot
2— Snap Ming 3"*—Piston Assembly
4—
Backing
Ring 5—
Master
Cylinder Cup 6—
Master
Cylinder Cup
7— Piston
8—
Master
Cylinder Cup 9—
Cup
Protector
10—Spring 11—
Cylinder
Housing
12—
Cover
Gasket
13—
Cover

14—
Washer
Gasket 15—
Washer
16—
Cover
Bolt
17—
Check
Valve Spring 18—
Check
Valve
19—
Tube
Seat
20— Piston Stop
REASSEMBLY

a.
Prior
to reassembly of the master cylinder, dip

all
components
in clean brake fluid and place on
clean paper or in a clean pan.

b.
Install the primary cup washer, primary cup,
cup protector, and return spring on the secondary piston.
c. Install the piston cups in the double
groove
end
of the secondary piston, so the flat j of the cups face each other (lip of cups away from each other).
Install
the cup expander in the lip
groove
of the
end cup.

cL
Coat the cylinder bore and piston assemblies with clean brake fluid
before
installing any parts

in
the cylinder.
e. Install the secondary piston assembly first and then the primary piston which is supplied in the
repair
kit.

f.
Install the push rod assembly, which includes
the push rod,
boot,
and rod retainer, and secure
with the snap ring. Install the primary piston
stop.

g. Place new rubber check valves over the check valve springs and install in the
outlet
holes, spring
first.

Note:
When replacing a
complete
master cylinder
with a service unit, the original push rod must be used. The push rod retainer and snap ring retainer 12617

FIG.
P-14—REMOVING TUBE SEATS 1
—Screwdriver

2— No. 6-32 Self-Tapping Screw

3—
Tube
Seat must be removed and discarded. As the new unit
has the retainers installed it is only necessary to

install
the push rod until a "snap" is heard and the push rod is retained. 332