transmission JEEP DJ 1953 User Guide

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
Note:
Check
the condition of the rubber O-rings.
Defective O-rings could be the major cause of oil
leakage into cylinders. Always discard and replace

all
O-rings removed as only new O-rings should be installed at reassembly.

D-18.
Ream
Cylinder
Bore Ridges

To
prevent breaking the piston lands, the ridge
at the top of each cylinder bore must be removed

first.
To remove this ridge, use a cylinder ridge
reamer,
as shown in Fig. D-3 following the instruc­
tions furnished by the reamer manufacturer. Use

care
not to cut below the top of the upper ring
travel
in the bore. Keep each piston top covered

with
an oil-soaked cloth to prevent cuttings from
falling
into the cylinder.

Note:
This
operation should be performed at this
time before the
engine
is rotated for the sequence

steps
following.

D-19.
Remove Oil Pan
Rotate the
engine
to the upside down position.
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the oil pan to the cylinder block. Remove the oil

pan
and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.

D-20.
Remove Piston and Connecting
Rod
Assemblies
Remove the stamped locking nuts from the lower
end of each connecting rod bearing bolt. Remove
the connecting rod nuts. Remove the bearing cap evenly. Push the connecting rod and piston as­
sembly out of the cylinder block with the handle end of a hammer until the piston rings are free from
the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly

from
the top of the cylinder block. Reassemble the
connecting rod bearing cap with the bearings in
place in the rod from which it was removed. Rotate
the crankshaft and follow the same procedure until
all
the piston and connecting rod assemblies are
removed.
Pistons and connecting rod assemblies may be removed for repair with the
engine
in the vehicle after draining the cooling system, removing the

oil
pan and the cylinder head, and reaming the ridges as previously described.

D-21.
Remove
Timing
Gear
Cover

Remove the bolts, nuts, and lockwashers, that at­
tach
the timing gear cover to the engine. Remove
the cover, timing pointer, and cover gasket.
Dis­
card
the gasket. Remove the crankshaft oil seal

from
the timing gear cover and discard the seal. Remove the oil slinger and spacer from the
crank­

shaft.

D-22.
Remove
Timing
Gears

Use puller W-172 for pulling both the crankshaft
and
the camshaft gears.
With
the threaded cap-
screws supplied, adapt the puller to the crankshaft
FIG.
D-5—PULLING TIMING GEARS

1—
Puller
W-172 2—
Camshaft
Gear
gear and
pull
the gear.
With
the special hook-type

puller
bolts
that fit behind the camshaft gear
flange,
pull
the camshaft gear. Remove the Wood­

ruff
Keys.

D-23.
Remove
Front
End Plate
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach the
front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove the
front end plate and gasket.
Discard
the gasket.
D-24. Remove
Clutch

Remove four
bolts
and lockwashers diagonally

opposite
that attach the clutch assembly to the
flywheel, leaving two
opposed
bolts
to be
loosened
alternately until the clutch spring pressure is re­
lieved.
Then,
support the clutch assembly with
one hand while removing the two remaining bolts.

For
information on disassembly, inspection, repair

and
assembly of the clutch refer to Section I. In­
structions for removing the clutch when the
engine
is in the vehicle are also given in Section I.

D-25.
Remove Flywheel

The
flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with two tapered dowel
bolts
and four special bolts.
Remove
these
attaching parts. Use a pry bar be­ tween the flywheel and the back of the
engine
and
carefully
loosen
the flywheel from the crankshaft.

If
the flywheel is to be removed with the
engine

in
the vehicle, the transmission and clutch must
first be removed as detailed in Section I.

D-26.
Remove
Crankshaft

Slide
the crankshaft thrust washer and all end-play

adjusting
shims off the front end of the crankshaft.

Pull
the two pieces of
rear
main bearing cap packing out of position
between
the side of the bearing cap

and
the cylinder block.

Note
the marks on the bearing caps and cylinder
block for bearing number and position. 44

HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE

FIG.
D-28-
CHECKING
OIL
PUMP
ROTORS

FIG.
D-29—CHECKING OUTER ROTOR
TO
OIL
PUMP
BODY If,
however, the
teeth
are broken, cracked, or
seriously
burred,
the ring gear should be replaced.

D-69.
Ring
Gear
Replacement

The
ring
gear
is secured on the flywheel by a
shrink

fit. Before starting the operation of replacing the
ring
gear, place the new ring gear against the old
gear to make certain both have the same number of
teeth.

To
remove the ring gear from the flywheel,
drill
a [9,5 mm.]
hole
through the ring gear and cut
through any remaining metal with a cold chisel. Remove the ring gear from the flywheel. Thorough-
FIG.
D-30—CHECKING
OIL
PUMP
COVER
ly
clean the ring gear surface of the flywheel. Heat
the new ring gear evenly to a range of
650°F.
to
700°F.
[343°C.
a
371°C.]
and place it on the cold
flywheel,
making
certain that the chamfer on the
teeth
is on the crankshaft side of the flywheel. Be

sure
that the ring gear is firmly seated on the fly­
wheel. Allow the ring gear to cool slowly to
shrink
it
onto
the flywheel. Do not quench the ring gear;
allow it to slowly air cool.

D-7Q.
Flywheel Pilot Bushing

Inspect
the flywheel pilot bushing in the flywheel.

For
procedure on replacing the bushing, refer to

Par.
1-8.

D-71.
Flywheel Housing

The
flywheel housing, which
encloses
the flywheel

and
clutch is bolted to the
engine
rear
plate and
cylinder
block. The
rear
of the housing provides
the front support for the transmission. Examine the housing for cracks and distortion of the

machined
surfaces. The front face must seat evenly
against the
engine
rear
end plate without evidence
of warpage. The
rear
face must be parallel to the front face. Improper alignment may cause trans­mission gear disengagement. In addition, the open­
ing in the
rear
of the housing, which serves as a
pilot for the transmission, must be concentric with the crankshaft. The flywheel housing should be
checked for alignment after it is installed on the
engine. Refer to Par. D-88.

D-72.
Core Hole Expansion Plug

Any
evidence of coolant leakage around any of
the core
hole
expansion plugs
will
require replace­ ment of the plug. The expansion plug at the
rear

end of the cylinder block can be driven out with a 24" [60 cm.] length of half-inch bar stock carefully
inserted through the camshaft bore in the cylinder
block. The other core
hole
expansion plugs in the
cylinder
block and cylinder head can be removed
by piercing the center with a sharp tool and prying them out. Before attempting to install a new plug,
clean
the
hole
thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of
sealer on the new plug and install the plug with a
driver.
60

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12710

FIG.
D1
-3—HYDRAULIC VALVE
LIFTER
ASSEMBLY, CROSS-SECTIONAL VIEW
1—
Snap
Ring
6—Ball Retainer

2— Rod
Seat
7—Plunger Spring

3—
Oil
Inlets
8—Lifter
Body

4—
Plunger
9—Bronzed
Cap
5— Feed
Hole
sages
in the block and cylinder head.

The
water cooled system is pressurized to provide efficient
engine
cooling. It consists of a centrifugal-
type water pump, mounted on the timing chain cover, and is driven by the
engine
fan pulley. The
pump provides coolant flow equally to both
cylin­
der banks under control of a thermostat. Coolant
flow is around the cylinders and through the
cylinder
head to dispel the heat of combustion in
the engine.

Dl-3.
Engine Mounts

The
engine-transmission unit is mounted to the chassis at three points by rubber pads. The two
front mounts are bolted to the
engine
cylinder
block and the frame members. These mounts sup­ port most of the
engine
weight, and absorb
vibra­

tion which would otherwise be caused by changes
in
engine
output torque. The single
rear
mount is
placed
between
the transmission and the trans­ mission support. It supports part of the engine'

and
transmission weight, and locates the
rear
of
the
engine
with respect to the centerline of the
vehicle.

Dl-4. ENGINE REMOVAL
To
remove the
engine
from the vehicle follow the
procedurers listed below:

a.
Remove hood. b. Disconnect battery cables from battery and
engine. c. Remove air cleaner.

d.
Drain
coolant from radiator and engine.
e.
Drain
engine
oil.
f. Disconnect alternator wiring harness from con­ nector at regulator.

cj.
Disconnect the fuel evaporative purge line con­ nected to the
P.C.V.
valve.

h.
Disconnect upper and lower radiator
hoses
from
the engine.

i.
Remove right and left radiator support
bars,

j.
Remove radiator from the vehicle.

k.
Disconnect
engine
wiring harnesses from con­
nectors located on
engine
firewall.
I.
On
engines
equipped with exhaust emission con­

trol,
remove the air pump, air distribution manifold,

and
anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F2 for
procedure.

m.
Disconnect battery cable and wiring from en­

gine
starter assembly.

n.
Remove
engine
starter assembly from engine,

o.
Disconnect
engine
fuel
hoses
from fuel lines at

right
frame
rail,
p. Plug fuel lines.

q.
Disconnect choke cable from carburetor and cable support bracket mounted on engine,
r.
Disconnect exhaust pipes from right and left

engine
manifolds.
s. Place
jack
under transmission and support trans­
mission weight.
f. Remove
bolts
securing
engine
to front motor mounts.

u.
Attach suitable sling to
engine
lifting
eyes
and,
using hoist, support
engine
weight.
v. Remove
bolts
securing
engine
to flywheel housing.
w. Raise
engine
slightly and slide
engine
forward
to remove transmission main shaft from clutch plate spline.

Note:
Engine and transmission must be raised
slightly to release the main shaft from the clutch
plate while sliding the
engine
forward.
x. When
engine
is free of transmission shaft raise

engine
and remove from vehicle,
y. Place
engine
on suitable blocking or
engine
stand and remove sling from engine.

Dl-5.
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Engine
disassembly is presented in the sequence to be followed when the
engine
is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some of the operations of the procedure are also appli­cable separately with the
engine
in the vehicle,
provided that wherever necessary the part of the
engine
to be worked on is first made accessible by removal of
engine
accessories or other parts.

When
the disassembly operations are performed
with
the
engine
out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in
this procedure, that all of the accessories have
been removed
prior
to starting the disassembly and
the oil has been drained.

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss

on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cyl­

inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all con­necting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.

Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning

a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clog­
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign

material.

b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in sol­
vent; dry with compressed air.

c.
Install
screen in housing.

Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection

Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.

Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;

dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for

burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is de­

scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,

nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and pos­
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,

seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.

Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement

a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then

split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of fly­
wheel.

b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be

installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become

blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].

Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will

destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.

c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered

edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated prop­

erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will

be held tightly in place.

Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection

Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a fly­
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as

front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly­ wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces

with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with com­
pressed air.

Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.

The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to

proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equip­
ment, the original bearings should be retained un­
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored cam­
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance

between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].

Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively

worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.

b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as de­

scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean

and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate

properly.

c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with

a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of

a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.

d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.

e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated

during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve

lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contamina­
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit re­

moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
e.
Connect electrical wiring harness to coolant
temperature sending unit. Connect two distributor leads to ignition coil. Connect fuel line
between

fuel pump and carburetor, vacuum
hose
between
distributor and carburetor, and crankcase vent
hose

to intake manifold
below
rear
of carburetor.
FIG.
D1-46—-INTAKE
MANIFOLD
INSTALLATION

1—Long Bolt 2—Open Bolt Hole
Dl-102.
ENGINE INSTALLATION

Install
the
engine
in the vehicle in the following
procedure listed
below:

a.
Attach suitable sling to
engine
lifting
eyes
and,
using a hoist, lift the
engine
from blocks or
engine
stand.
b. When
engine
is free of the stand lower it slowly

into
the
engine
compartment of the vehicle.

Note:
The
engine
and transmission must be lined
up to
engage
the main shaft and clutch plate spline
while sliding the
engine
rearward
into
the mounting
position.
c.
Install
and tighten up
bolts
securing
engine
to
flywheel housing.

d.
Install
and tighten front
engine
mounting bolts.

e.
Remove sling from the
engine.

I.
Connect exhaust pipes to right and
left
engine
manifolds.
g. Connect choke cable support bracket to
car­

buretor.

h.
Connect
engine
fuel
hoses
and fuel lines at right
frame
rail.

I.
Connect fuel lines.

j.
Mount
engine
starter motor assembly to
engine.
k.
Connect battery cable and wiring to
engine

starter
motor.

I.
Connect
engine
wiring harnesses to connectors
located on
engine
firewall.

Note:
On
engines
equipped with exhaust emission
control, replace the air pump, air distributor mani­
fold, and anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F2.
m. Replace radiator, and secure with bolts,
n.
Replace and tighten right and
left
radiator sup­
port rods.
0. Connect upper and lower radiator
hoses
to the

engine.
p. Connect alternator wiring harness from connec­
tor at regulator,
q.
Replace air cleaner.
r.
Connect battery ground cable from the battery
to the
engine
and the
engine
ground strap,

s.
Replace the hood.

After
the
engine
is installed in the vehicle,
fill
radiator
with coolant and
engine
with oil (Refer to
Lubrication
Section B), then perform an
engine

Tune-up
and road
test
(Refer to Tune-up Sec­
tion C).

Dl-103.
FINAL IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS

a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery.
b.
Check
ignition wires and connections.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines.
f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary.

h.
Check
ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary. 1.
Check
carburetor adjustments; reset if necessary,

j.
With
engine
fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold
bolts
and nuts to specified
torque.
Check
cylinder head
gaskets
and
bolts
for
air
or coolant leaks.

Note:
Tightness of cylinder head
bolts
should be
checked and corrected after 500 miles [800 km.]
of normal operation and again at 1000 miles [1600

km.].
k.
Check
fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.
I.
Check
for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak. 104

Fl

EXHAUST
EMISSION
CONTROL
SYSTEMS
IMPORTANT
NOTICE

The
Exhaust
Emission Systems covered
in
this publication
meet
State and

Federal
requirements for hydrocarbon and carbon
monoxide
emissions.

To
assure continued proper operation,
these
systems
must
be
inspected

regularly,
parts must be replaced
at
factory-recommended intervals and
engine

tune-up services performed at intervals specified in the
Exhaust
Emission
Con­
trol
System Maintenance charts.

For
the
above
reasons,
these
systems
must not, under any circumstances,
be

altered
to anything other than
required
specifications provided in this publication.

Further,
the
Exhaust
Emission
Control
System, or any
of
its components, must
not be physically altered or modified in any respect.

DHTfl
TAG

For
the serviceman's guidance, each vehicle equipped with exhaust emission

control
will
have data
tag
permanently affixed
to the
radiator shroud—-in
example:

VEHICLE
EMISSION
CONTROL
INFORMATION
MODEL
F4-134
C.I.D.

•
ENGINE
AT
NORMAL
OPERATING
TEMPERATURE

•
LIGHTS
AND
ALL
ACCESSORIES OFF

•
IDLE
MIXTURE
. . .
LEAN
BEST
IDLE

•
IGNITION
TIMING
0*
(TDC)
•
SPARK
PLUG
GAP
. . . .030

•
DWELL
...
42* (.020
POINT
GAP)
•
IDLE
SPEED
. . .
700-750 RPM
TRANSMISSION
IN
NEUTRAL
DURING
TUNE
UP

SEE SERVICE MANUAL
FOR
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS
TO U.S.
DEPT.
OF
H.E.W.
REGULATIONS APPLICABLE
TO
1971 MODEL YEAR NEW MOTOR VEHICLES

Jeep
CORPORATION
14401

Important:
Always refer
to
the data tag when checking or re-adjusting ignition

timing,
idle speed, and idle mixture. 148

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

F2
F2-35.
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTOL SYSTEM
DISTRIBUTOR SPECIFICATIONS

Distributor:
Make
Delco-Remy Prestolite Prestolite
Model...
1110376
IAT-4501 or IAT-4502 IAT-4502A

Breaker
Point Gap .016"
[0,406
mm.] .016"
[0,406
mm.] .016"
[0,406
mm.]

Breaker
Arm Tension 19 to 23 oz. [538 a 652 gr.] 17 to 22 oz. [482 a 623 gr.] 17 to 22 oz. [482 a 623 gr.]

Cam
Angle. 29° to 31° 29° + 3° 29° ± 3°

Max.
Auto Advance
(Crankshaft
Degrees). 13° to 15° at 1,950 rpm. 16° (& 1800 rpm. 21° @ 1800 rpm.
26°
@
4200
rpm. (Max.) 32° @
4200
rpm. (Max.)

Max.
Vac. Advance
(Distributor
Degrees) 8° 8° 8°
Condenser Capacity. .18 to .23 mfd. .25 to .28 mfd. .25 to .28 mfd.

Timing:
Crankshaft
5°
(BTC)
@ Idle 5°
(BTC)
© Idle 0°
(TDC)
© Idle

Mark
Location Crankshaft Pulley Crankshaft Pulley Crankshaft Pulley

Firing
Order
1-6-5-4-3-2 1-6-5-4-3-2 1-6-5-4-3-2

F2-36.
SPARK PLUG
GAP

Spark
Plug Gap. .035"
[0,889
mm.]

IMPORTANT
NOTICE
The
Exhaust Emission Systems covered in this publication
meet
State and Federal
requirements for hydrocarbon and carbon
monoxide
emissions.

To
assure continued proper operation,
these
systems
must be inspected regularly,
parts must be replaced at factory-recommended intervals and
engine
tune-up services
performed at intervals specified in the Exhaust Emission Control System Maintenance
charts.

For
the
above
reasons,
these
systems
must not, under any circumstances, be altered
to anything other than required specifications provided in this publication.
Further,

the Exhaust Emission Control System, or any of its components, must not be physi­
cally
altered or modified in any respect.

DATA
TAG

For
the serviceman's guidance, each vehicle equipped with exhaust emission control

will
have data tag permanently affixed to the radiator shroud — in example:

VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION MODEL V6-225 C.I.D.

•
ENGINE
AT
NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE

•
LIGHTS
AND ALL
ACCESSORIES
OFF

•
IDLE MIXTURE
.. .
LEAN BEST IDLE

•
IGNITION TIMING
0*
(TDC)
*
SPARK PLUG
GAP 035
•
DWELL
. . . 30* (.016
POINT
GAP) •
IDLE SPEED
. . .
650- 700
RPM
TRANSMISSION
IN
NEUTRAL DURING TUNE
UP

SEE
SERVICE MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS
TO U.S. DEPT. OF H.E.W.
REGULATIONS APPLICABLE
TO
1971
MODEL YEAR
NEW
MOTOR VEHICLES
Jeep
CORPORATION
14400
NOTE:
The
above
tag applies to vehicles equipped with Distributor Model
IAT-4502A.

On
vehicles equipped with Distributor Models
1110376,
IAT-4501 and IAT-4502 the tag is the same

except
that Ignition Timing is 5°
T.D.C.

Always
refer to the data tag when checking or re-adjusting ignition timing, idle speed, and idle mixture.
159

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL
H
FIG.
H-59—HEAD LAMP

1—
Door

2—
Retaining
Screw

3—
Retaining
Ring

4—
Sealed
Beam
Unit
5—
Mounting
Ring

6—
Adjusting
Screw 7—
Housing

8—
Wires

9—
Door
Screw 310669
to cross the vertical
tapes
at the measured height
of each lamp center respectively.

g.
Remove the head lamp doors.
h.
Clean
the head lamps.

H-132.
Aiming Head Lamps

a.
Turn
the headlights on low beam. Cover the lamp not being aimed. Be sure to use the horizontal reference line on the screen that is the same dimen­
sion as the vehicle lamp height.
b.
Turn
the vertical aiming screw counterclock­
wise until the lamp beam is considerably lower

than
the horizontal reference line on the screen.
Then,
turn
the screw clockwise until the top
edge

of the high intensity
area
is even with the horizontal

line.
See Fig. H-60.
I
(T)

JT)

1'.'' | '':'
11460

FIG.
H-60—HEADLIGHT AIMING
CHART
1—
Vertical
Tape,
Left
Lamp
Center

2—
Vehicle
Centerline

3—
—Vertical
Tape,
Right
Lamp
Center
4—
Zone
of Greatest Intensity
5—
2
*
(Two Inches)
6— 25'0
'
7—
2
*
(Two Inches)
8—
Height
of
Lamp
Centers
9—
Horizontal
Tape

Note:
Always bring the beam into final position
by turning both aiming screws clockwise so that
the unit is held under proper tension when the operation is complete.

c. Turn
the horizontal aiming screw counterclock­
wise until the beam is off.
Then,
turn
the same
screw
clockwise until the
left
edge
of the high
intensity area is 2" [5,08 cm.] to the right of the
lamp center line. See Fig. H-60.

d.
Cover the lamp that has been aimed and aim
the other lamp using the same procedure.
e.
Carefully
reinstall the head lamp doors.

H-133.
Parking
and
Turn Signal Light
The
parking lights are mounted in the radiator

guard
panel just below the headlights. These lights

are
on only when the main switch control knob is
pulled
out to the first notch.

To
replace a parking lamp, remove two screws allowing the lens and colored reflector to be re­
moved. Replace the lamp, which is recessed back

in
the housing.

If
the
complete
parking light assembly is to be
removed for service or replacement, disconnect the

wire
plug at the back of the housing.
Then
remove
the nuts and lock washers securing the parking light assembly and remove out the front of the

panel.

H-134. Tail, Stop
and
Turn Signal Light

Refer
to Fig. H-57 and H-58.

The
tail
lights are mounted in the
rear
corner
posts

of the body. They are on whenever the main switch
control
knob is pulled out to any position.

a.
To replace a lamp, remove the snap ring on

early
models
and remove the lens; on late
models
remove lens screws, lens and gasket.
Clean
lens
and
reflector before replacing.
b. To remove the parking and
tail
light housing,
disconnect wiring, remove the two nuts and lock
washers securing
tail
light assembly to body and remove from
rear
of body.

H-135-
Backup Lights •
Refer to Fig. H-61.

The
backup lights on late production vehicles are located on the
rear
of the vehicle directly below
the
tail
light. The backup lights are actuated
through a switch when the ignition is on and the

transmission
is in reverse. 215

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

14385

FIG.
H-61—BACK-UP
LIGHT
1—
Snap
Ring
2—
Lens

3—
Gasket

4—
Bulb
5—
Housing
and
Cable
On
late production
T14A
transmissions the backup
light switch is threaded into the right
rear
corner
of the cover housing and is activated by the move­
ment of the reverse shift
rail.

The
backup light switch is not serviceable and
must be replaced if defective.

Bulbs
can be replaced by removing the snap
ring,

lens and gasket from the assembly.

H-136.
License Plate
Light

On
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A
and current production vehicles
the license plate light is attached to the tailgate
and
is of the swing-type design to enable the
license plate to be visible when the tailgate is in
the down psoition. The bulb can be changed by
removing
the clear plastic lens. On early production
vehicles the license plate light is integral with the

tail
light assembly.

H-137.
Horn
The
horn is mounted under the hood on the
left

front
fender. The horn is sounded by pressing the
button located at the top center of the steering
wheel.

To
remove the horn wire, disconnect the wire at
the snap connection at the base of the steering
column.
Pull
off the rubber horn button cap and
the brass contact cap from the steering wheel nut.

This
will
expose
the contact tip of the horn wire.

Pull
the wire out of the steering column from the top. Refer to Fig. H-62.

H-13S.
Directional
Signals

Fig.
H-63 shows the
wiring
of a
composite
direction­

al
signal
circuit.
The most frequent causes of
failure
in
the directional signal system are
loose
connec­
tions and burned-out bulbs. A flashing rate

approximately
twice the normal rate usually in­
dicates a burned-out bulb in the
circuit.
11087

FIG.
H-62—HORN
BUTTON 1—
Cap
2— Nut
3—
Horn
Button
Spring
Cup 4—
Ferrule

5—
Horn
Cable

6—
Contact
Disc

7—
Steering
Wheel
8—
Cup
9—
Bearing
Spring
Seat
10—
Steering
Column

11—
Tube

12—
Bearing

13—
Bearing
Spring

14—
Horn
Button
Spring

15—
Retainer
Spring
When
trouble in the signal switch is suspected it
is advisable to make the following
test
to definitely
locate the trouble before
going
to the effort of

removing
the signal switch. If, for example, the
right
rear
stop
light and right front parking light

are
inoperative and switch failure is indicated, first put the control lever in neutral position.
Then

disconnect the wire to the right side
circuit
and
touch it to or bridge it to the
"L"
terminal, thus
by-passing the signal switch. If the right side cir- 10609

FIG.
H-63—DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL
CIRCUIT

1—
Flasher

2—
Ignition
Switch

3—
Control
4—
Light
Switch
5— Stop
Light
Switch
216