Battery JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 2003 WJ / 2.G Workshop Manual

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crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals (except number 4 main bear-
ing journal) to the connecting rod journals. Each con-
necting rod bearing cap has a small squirt hole, oil
passes through the squirt hole and is thrown off as
the rod rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the cam-
shaft lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and
piston pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. Oil is provided to the cam-
shaft bearing through galleries. The front camshaft
bearing journal passes oil through the camshaft
sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to the
oil pan under the number one main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components,
then passes down through the push rod guide holes
in the cylinder head past the valve tappet area, and
returns to the oil pan (Fig. 73).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Disconnect connector and remove oil pressure
sending unit.
(2) Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool
C-3292 or equivalent. Start engine and record pres-
sure. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the CCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the CCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service informa-
tion procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS .
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the CCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 51
LUBRICATION (Continued)

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All Jeep engines are equipped with a high quality
full-flow, throw-away type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler
Corporation recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss or filter
adapter housing (Fig. 75).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) Make sure old gasket comes off with oil filter.
With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface
(Fig. 76) of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 76) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The oil pan is made of stamped steel. The oil pan
gasket is a one piece steel backbone silicone coated
gasket (Fig. 77).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
(4) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold.
(5) Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic
converter and lower the pipe.
(6) Remove the starter motor. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOV-
AL).
(7) Remove the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(8) If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect
the sensor.
(9) Position a jack stand directly under the engine
vibration damper.
Fig. 75 Oil FilterÐ4.0L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - ADAPTER
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 76 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
Fig. 77 Oil Pan
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG
9 - 54 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL FILTER (Continued)

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(9) Lower the engine until it is properly located on
the engine mounts.
(10) Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
(11) Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of
wood.
(12) Install the engine flywheel and transmission
torque converter housing access cover.
(13) Install the engine starter motor. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -
INSTALLATION).
(14) Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to
the engine exhaust manifold.
(15) Install transmission oil cooling lines (if
equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that
attach to the oil pan studs.
(16) Install the oil pan drain plug (Fig. 81).
Tighten the plug to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(17) Lower the vehicle.
(18) Connect negative cable to battery.
(19) Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified
level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO
NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(20) Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The 3±wire, solid-state engine oil pressure sensor
(sending unit) is located in an engine oil pressure
gallery.
OPERATION
The oil pressure sensor uses three circuits. They
are:
²A 5±volt power supply from the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM)
²A sensor ground through the PCM's sensor
return
²A signal to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure
The oil pressure sensor has a 3±wire electrical
function very much like the Manifold Absolute Pres-
sure (MAP) sensor. Meaning different pressures
relate to different output voltages.
A 5±volt supply is sent to the sensor from the PCM
to power up the sensor. The sensor returns a voltage
signal back to the PCM relating to engine oil pres-
sure. This signal is then transferred (bussed) to theinstrument panel on either a CCD or PCI bus circuit
(depending on vehicle line) to operate the oil pressure
gauge and the check gauges lamp. Ground for the
sensor is provided by the PCM through a low-noise
sensor return.
OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
82).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer
assembly must be installed to assure an airtight
seal.
Fig. 82 Oil Pump Assembly
1 - OIL FILTER ADAPTOR
2 - BLOCK
3 - GASKET
4 - OIL INLET TUBE
5 - OIL PUMP
6 - STRAINER ASSEMBLY
7 - ATTACHING BOLTS
9 - 56 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
OIL PAN (Continued)

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INSTALLATION
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 N´m
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold (Fig. 83) is made of cast alu-
minum and uses eleven bolts to mount to the cylin-
der head. This mounting style improves sealing and
reduces the chance of leaks.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water at the suspected
leak area.
(3) If a change in RPM is observed the area of the
suspected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
NOTE: THE ENGINE INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANI-
FOLD MUST BE REMOVED AND INSTALLED
TOGETHER. THE MANIFOLDS USE A COMMON
GASKET AT THE CYLINDER HEAD.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner inlet hose from the resona-
tor assembly.
(3) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove the throttle cable, vehicle speed control
cable (if equipped) and the transmission line pres-
sure cable (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - AW4/THROTTLE VALVE
CABLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect the following electrical connections
and secure their harness out of the way:
²Throttle Position Sensor
²Idle Air Control Motor
²Coolant Temperature Sensor (at thermostat
housing)
²Intake Air Temperature Sensor
²Oxygen Sensor
²Crank Position Sensor
²Six (6) Fuel Injector Connectors
²Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor.
(6) Disconnect HVAC, and Brake Booster vacuum
supply hoses at the intake manifold.
(7) Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Disconnect and remove the fuel system supply
line from the fuel rail assembly.
(9) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(10) Remove the power steering pump from the
intake manifold and set aside.
(11) Raise the vehicle.
(12) Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the engine
exhaust manifolds.
(13) Lower the vehicle.
(14) Remove the intake manifold and exhaust
manifold bolts and manifolds (Fig. 84).
INSTALLATION
If the manifold is being replaced, ensure all the fit-
ting, etc. are transferred to the replacement mani-
fold.
(1) Install a new engine exhaust/intake manifold
gasket over the alignment dowels on the cylinder
head.
(2) Position the engine exhaust manifolds to the
cylinder head. Install fastener Number 3 and finger
tighten at this time (Fig. 84).
Fig. 83 Intake Manifold 4.0L Engine
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 57
OIL PUMP (Continued)

Page 1301 of 2199

(3) Install intake manifold on the cylinder head
dowels.
(4) Install washer and fastener Numbers 1, 2, 4, 5,
8, 9, 10 and 11 (Fig. 84).
(5) Install washer and fastener Numbers 6 and 7
(Fig. 84).
(6) Tighten the fasteners in sequence and to the
specified torque (Fig. 84).
²Fastener Numbers 1 through 5ÐTighten to 33
N´m (24 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Fastener Numbers 6 and 7ÐTighten to 31 N´m
(23 ft. lbs.) torque.
²Fastener Numbers 8 through 11ÐTighten to 33
N´m (24 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Install the power steering pump to the intake
manifold.
(8) Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the fuel system supply line to the fuel
rail assembly.
(10) Connect all electrical connections on the
intake manifold.
(11) Connect the vacuum hoses previously
removed.
(12) Install throttle cable, vehicle speed control
cable (if equipped).
(13) Install the transmission line pressure cable (if
equipped) (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - AW4/THROTTLE VALVE
CABLE - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install air cleaner assembly.
(15) Connect air inlet hose to the resonator assem-
bly.
(16) Raise the vehicle.
(17) Connect the exhaust pipes to the engine
exhaust manifolds. Tighten the bolts to 31 N´m (23
ft. lbs.)
(18) Lower the vehicle.(19) Connect the battery negative cable.
(20) Start the engine and check for leaks.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The two exhaust manifolds (Fig. 85) are log style
and are made of high silicon molybdenum cast iron.
The exhaust manifolds share a common gasket with
the intake manifold. The exhaust manifolds also
incorporate ball flange outlets for improved sealing
and strain free connections.
REMOVAL
The intake and engine exhaust manifolds on the
4.0L engine must be removed together. The manifolds
use a common gasket at the cylinder head.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE
MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
INSTALLATION
(1) The exhaust manifold and the intake manifold
must be installed together using a common gasket.
(2) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE
MANIFOLD - INSTALLATION).
TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the fan, hub assembly and fan shroud
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the accessory drive brackets that are
attached to the timing case cover.
(5) Remove the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL) (if equipped) and gen-
erator bracket assembly from the engine cylinder
head and move to one side.
(6) Remove the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts
and timing case cover-to-cylinder block bolts.
(7) Remove the timing case cover and gasket from
the engine.
(8) Pry the crankshaft oil seal from the front of the
timing case cover (Fig. 86).
INSTALLATION
Clean the timing case cover, oil pan and cylinder
block gasket surfaces.
Fig. 84 Intake and Exhaust Manifolds Installation
9 - 58 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

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(1) Install a new crankshaft oil seal in the timing
case cover. The open end of the seal should be toward
the inside of the cover. Support the cover at the seal
area while installing the seal. Force it into position
with Seal Installation Tool 6139.
(2) Position the gasket on the cylinder block.
(3) Position the timing case cover on the oil pan
gasket and the cylinder block.
(4) Insert Timing Case Cover Alignment and Seal
Installation Tool 6139 in the crankshaft opening in
the cover (Fig. 87).
(5) Install the timing case cover-to-cylinder block
and the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts.
(6) Tighten the 1/4 inch cover-to-block bolts to 7
N´m (60 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 5/16 inch front
cover-to-block bolts to 22 N´m (192 in. lbs.) torque.
Tighten the oil pan-to-cover 1/4 inch bolts to 9.5 N´m
(84 in. lbs.) torque.(7) Remove the cover alignment tool.
(8) Apply a light film of engine oil on the vibration
damper hub contact surface of the seal.
(9) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the
key. With the key inserted in the keyway in the
crankshaft, install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Install the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C
COMPRESSOR - INSTALLATION) (if equipped) and
generator bracket assembly.
(11) Install the engine fan, hub assembly and
shroud (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
FAN - INSTALLATION).
(12) Install the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 85 EXHAUST MANIFOLDS 4.0L ENGINE
Fig. 86 Timing Case Cover Components
1 - TIMING CASE COVER
2 - OIL SLINGER
3 - CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL
4 - VIBRATION DAMPER PULLEYFig. 87 Timing Case Cover Alignment
1 - TIMING CASE COVER ALIGNMENT AND SEAL
INSTALLATION TOOL
WJENGINE - 4.0L 9 - 59
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) (Continued)

Page 1303 of 2199

TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the fan and shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the timing case cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Rotate crankshaft until the ª0º timing mark is
closest to and on the center line with camshaft
sprocket timing mark (Fig. 88).
(7) Remove the oil slinger from the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer
(Fig. 89).
(9) Remove the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft
sprocket and timing chain as an assembly.
(10) Installation of the timing chain with the tim-
ing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets
properly aligned ensures correct valve timing. A worn
or stretched timing chain will adversely affect valvetiming. If the timing chain deflects more than 12.7
mm (1/2 inch) replace it.
INSTALLATION
Assemble the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket
and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 88).
(1) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the
key. With the key in the keyway on the crankshaft,
install the assembly on the crankshaft and camshaft.
(2)
Install the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer
(Fig. 89). Tighten the bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions. The cam-
shaft and crankshaft sprocket timing mark should
align (Fig. 88).
(4) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(5) Replace the oil seal in the timing case cover
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANK-
SHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT - REMOVAL).
(6) Install the timing case cover and gasket (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT /
CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) With the key installed in the crankshaft key-
way, install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the fan, hub assembly and shroud
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 88 CrankshaftÐCamshaft Alignment
1 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
2 - TIMING MARKS
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
Fig. 89 Camshaft Sprocket and Thrust Plate
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET W/INTEGRAL KEY
3 - BOLT AND WASHER
4 - THRUST PLATE
9 - 60 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ

Page 1308 of 2199

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH
IDLE1. Idle speed set to low. 1. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
INJECTION/IDLE AIR CONTROL
MOTOR - REMOVAL).
2. Idle mixture to lean or to rich. 2. Refer to Powertrain Diagnosis
Information.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and vacuum
hoses, repair or replace as necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect engine timing. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
1. ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING).
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
4. Blown cylinder head gasket. 4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
5. Low compression. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING), repair as necessary.
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.7. Inspect and replace as necessary.
8. Faulty coil. 8. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 65
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

Page 1311 of 2199

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL
PRESSURE SENSOR/SWITCH -
REMOVAL).
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER -
REMOVAL).
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP -
REMOVAL).
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP -
REMOVAL).
9. Oil pick up tube loose, damaged
or clogged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS;
SPARK PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON
RINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. Leaking valve guide seals. 5. Replace valve guide seals.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs.
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.(4) Disable the fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DESCRIPTION).
(5) Remove the ASD relay (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN
RELAY - REMOVAL).
(6) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(7) Record the compression pressure on the 3rd
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(8) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for
the correct engine compression pressures.
9 - 68 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

Page 1314 of 2199

²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 2)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 2)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 2)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 3).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the front fascia.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust
manifolds.
(5) Disconnect two ground straps from the lower
left hand side and one ground strap from the lower
right hand side of the engine.
(6) Disconnect crankshaft position sensor. (Fig. 4)
(7) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(8) Remove starter. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove rubber splash shield.
(10) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Remove torque converter bolts.
(12) Remove transmission to engine mounting
bolts.
Fig. 2 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 3 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 71
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

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