Lines JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Workshop Manual

centage of antifreeze can cause the engine to over-
heat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than
that of water.
CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
OPERATION - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
FLUID
The automatic transmission fluid is selected based
upon several qualities. The fluid must provide a high
level of protection for the internal components by
providing a lubricating film between adjacent metal
components. The fluid must also be thermally stable
so that it can maintain a consistent viscosity through
a large temperature range. If the viscosity stays con-
stant through the temperature range of operation,
transmission operation and shift feel will remain con-
sistent. Transmission fluid must also be a good con-
ductor of heat. The fluid must absorb heat from the
internal transmission components and transfer that
heat to the transmission case.
FLUID CAPACITIES
SPECIFICATIONS - FLUID CAPACITIES
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
FUEL TANK 18.5 U.S. Gallons (70
Liters)****
ENGINE OIL
Engine Oil - with Filter -
2.4L2.4L (5.0 qts.)
Engine Oil - with Filter -
3.7L3.7L (5.0 qts.)
Engine Oil - With Filter -
2.5L Diesel6.5L (6.9 qts.)
ENGINE COOLANT
Cooling System - 2.4L 9.6L (10.1 qts.)
Cooling System - 3.7L 12.3L (13.0 qts.)
Cooling System - 2.5L
Diesel12.5L (13.2 qts.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Service Fill - 45RFE 4.73L (10.0 pts)
O-haul Fill - 45RFE 13.33L (28.0 pts)
Dry fill capacity Depending on type and size of
internal cooler, length and inside diameter of cooler
lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may
vary. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
AUTOMATIC/FLUID - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
TRANSFER CASE
NV231 1.4L (2.95 pts.)
NV242 1.6L (3.4 pts.)
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
NV1500 (Approximate dry
fill or fill to bottom edge of
the fill plug hole.)2.28L (2.41 qts.)
NV3550 (Approximate dry
fill or fill to bottom edge of
fill plug hole.)2.28L (2.41 qts.)
FRONT AXLE
186 FIA (Model 30) 1.24L (41.9 fl. oz.)
REAR AXLE
198 RBI (Model 35) 1.78L (60.2 fl. oz.)*
8 1/4 2.08L (4.4 pts.)*
* When equipped with Trac-lok, include 4.0 ounces of
Friction Modifier.
****Nominal refill capacities are shown. A variation
may be observed from vehicle to vehicle due to
manufacturing tolerance and refill procedure.
0 - 4 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEKJ
FLUID TYPES (Continued)

(5) Remove lower clevis bolt (Fig. 2).
(6) Seperate lower ball joint from the lower control
arm (Fig. 3).
(7) Pull out on the steering knuckle and push the
half shaft out of the knuckle.
(8) With a pry bar remove the half shaft from the
axle.
NOTE: The right side has a splined axle shaft that
will stay in the axle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease on
the female splines of the inner C/V joint.(2) Install half shaft on the axle shaft spline and
push firmly to engage the snap ring. Pull on the half
shaft to verify snap has engaged.
(3) Clean hub bearing bore and apply a light coat
of wheel bearing grease.
(4) Pull out on the steering knuckle and push the
half shaft through the knuckle.
(5) Install lower ball joint into the lower control
arm and tighten pinch bolt.
(6) Align clevis with knuckle. Install and tighten
lower clevis bolt.
(7) Install stabilizer link.
(8) Install half shaft hub nut.
(9) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(10) Remove support and lower vehicle.
SPECIFICATIONS
HALF SHAFT
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Half Shaft Nut 136 100 -
Fig. 3 LOWER CONTROL ARM
1 - FRONT CAM BOLT
2 - OUTER TIE ROD END
3 - LOWER BALL JOINT NUT
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
5 - REAR CAM BOLTFig. 2 CLEVIS BRACKET
1 - UPPER BOLT
2 - CLEVIS BRACKET
3 - LOWER BOLT
KJHALF SHAFT 3 - 11
HALF SHAFT (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place the transmission in Neutral.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove right wheel and tire and assembly.
(4) Remove right half shaft from vehicle.
(5) Remove snap ring from axle shaft.
(6) Assemble Remover 8420A onto the shaft (Fig.
25). Thread slid hammer into remover and remove
shaft.
(7) Slide axle shaft out of the axle tube.
NOTE: Use care to prevent damage to axle shaft
bearing and seal, which will remain in axle shaft
tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear
lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing
(Fig. 26) and engage it into side gear splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from dam-
aging axle shaft seal.
(2) Push on the axle shaft until the axle shaft
snap-ring passes through the side gear.
(3) Install right half shaft.
(4) Install right wheel and tire assembly.
(5) Check differential fluid level.
(6) Lower vehicle.
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove half shaft.
(2) Remove axle shaft for right side seal removal.
(3) Remove shaft seal with Remover 7794-A and a
slide hammer (Fig. 27).
Fig. 25 AXLE SHAFT PULLER
1 - SNAP RING GROVE
2 - SLID HAMMER THREADS
3 - REMOVER BLOCKS
4 - REMOVER COLLAR
Fig. 26 AXLE SHAFT SEAL
1 - BEARING
2 - SEAL
Fig. 27 SHAFT SEAL REMOVER
1 - SHAFT SEAL
2 - REMOVER
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 37

(10) Insert Turning Bar 6960-2 into the pinion
mate shaft hole in the case (Fig. 59).
(11) Loosen the Forcing Screw in small increments
until the clutch pack tension is relieved and the dif-
ferential case can be turned using Turning Bar.
(12) Rotate differential case until the pinion gears
can be removed.
(13) Remove pinion gears from differential case.
(14) Remove Forcing Screw, Step Plate and
Threaded Adapter.
(15) Remove top side gear, clutch pack retainer
and clutch pack. Keep plates in order during removal
(Fig. 60).
(16) Remove differential case from the Holding
Fixture. Remove side gear, clutch pack retainer and
clutch pack. Keep plates in order during removal.
CLEANING
Clean all components in cleaning solvent and dry
components with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect clutch pack plates for wear, scoring or dam-
age. Replace both clutch packs if any one component
in either pack is damaged. Inspect side and pinion
gears for cracks chips or damage and replace as nec-
essary. Inspect differential case and pinion shaft and
replace if worn or damaged.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: New Plates and discs with fiber coating (no
grooves or lines) must be presoaked in Friction
Modifier before assembly. Soak plates and discs for
a minimum of 20 minutes.(1) Lubricate components with gear lubricant.
(2) Assemble clutch discs into packs and secure
disc packs with retaining clips (Fig. 61).
NOTE: Dished plate is position with the convex side
against the side gear.
Fig. 59 PINION GEARS
1 - PINION GEARS
2 - TURNING BAR
Fig. 60 SIDE GEARS AND CLUTCH DISCS
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RETAINER
3 - SIDE GEAR AND CLUTCH DISC PACK
Fig. 61 CLUTCH PACK
1 - DISCS
2 - DISHED PLATE
3 - RETAINER
4 - SIDE GEAR
5 - RETAINER
6 - PLATES
KJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 77
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place the transmission in NEUTRAL and raise
and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake drum.
(4) Remove the housing cover and drain lubricant.
(5) Rotate differential case to access the pinion
shaft lock screw. Remove lock screw and pinion shaft
from differential case (Fig. 19).
(6) Push axle shaft inward then remove axle shaft
C-lock (Fig. 20).(7) Remove axle shaft being carefull not to damage
shaft bearing and seal.
(8) Inspect axle shaft seal for leakage or damage.
(9) Inspect axle shaft bearing contact surface for
signs of brinelling, galling and pitting.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear
lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing and
engage it into side gear splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from dam-
aging axle shaft seal lip.
(2) Insert C-lock in end of axle shaft. Push axle
shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
(3) Insert pinion shaft into differential case and
through thrust washers and differential pinions.
(4) Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential
case and install lock screw with Loctiteton the
threads. Tighten lock screw to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install cover and fill with gear lubricant to the
bottom of the fill plug hole.
(6) Install brake drum.
(7) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(8) Remove support and lower vehicle.
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove axle shaft.
(3) Remove axle shaft seal from the axle tube with
a small pry bar (Fig. 21).
Fig. 19 Pinion Shaft Lock Screw
1 - LOCK SCREW
2 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 20 Axle Shaft C-Lock
1 - C-LOCK
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEARFig. 21 Axle Seal
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - AXLE SEAL
3-PRYBAR
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 101

(16) Remove differential case from the fixture.
Remove side gear, clutch pack retainer and clutch
pack. Keep plates in order during removal.
CLEANING
Clean all components in cleaning solvent and dry
components with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect clutch pack plates for wear, scoring or dam-
age. Replace both clutch packs if any one component
in either pack is damaged. Inspect side and pinion
gears for cracks chips or damage and replace as nec-
essary. Inspect differential case and pinion shaft and
replace if worn or damaged.
ASSEMBLY
Lubricate each component with gear lubricant
before assembly.
NOTE: New Plates and discs with fiber coating (no
grooves or lines) must be presoaked in Friction
Modifier before assembly. Soak plates and discs for
a minimum of 20 minutes.
(1) Assemble the clutch discs into packs and
secure disc packs with retaining clips (Fig. 42).
(2) Install assembled clutch disc packs on the side
gear hubs.(3) Install clutch pack and side gear in the ring
gear side of the differential case (Fig. 43).Verify
clutch pack retaining clips are in position and
seated in the case pockets.
(4) Set differential case on Fixture 8138.
(5) Install lubricated Disc 8140 without the hole in
lower side gear (Fig. 44).
(6) Install the upper side gear and clutch disc pack
(Fig. 44).
(7) Hold assembly in position. Insert Disc 8140
with threaded hole into top side gear.
(8) Install Forcing Screw 6960-4 and tighten screw
to slightly compress clutch disc.
(9) Place pinion gears in position in side gears and
verify that the pinion mate shaft hole is aligned.
(10) Rotate case with Turning Bar 6960-2 until the
pinion mate shaft holes in pinion gears align with
holes in case. It may be necessary to slightly tighten
the forcing screw in order to install the pinion gears.
(11) Tighten forcing screw to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.)
maximum to compress the Belleville springs.
(12) Lubricate and install thrust washers behind
pinion gears and align washers with a small screw
driver. Insert mate shaft into each pinion gear to ver-
ify alignment.
(13) Remove forcing screw and discs.
Fig. 42 CLUTCH DISC PACK
1 - CLUTCH PACK
2 - RETAINER
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 43 CLUTCH PACK AND LOWER SIDE GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - LOWER SIDE GEAR AND CLUTCH PACK
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 109
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)

BRAKES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - BASE........................... 1BRAKES - ABS........................... 32
BRAKES - BASE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION..........................2
WARNING.............................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM.............................3
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING............................5
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL
BLEEDING............................6
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE COMPONENTS..................6
TORQUE.............................7
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKES........................7
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION..........................8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE
AND HOSES..........................8
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE
INVERTED FLARING....................8
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING . . . 8
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE...............9
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE..........9
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE....10
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE HOSE......10
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION - REAR DRUM BRAKE.......10
OPERATION - REAR DRUM BRAKE.........11
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT BRAKE PADS.........11
REMOVAL - DRUM BRAKE SHOES........11
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE PADS.....11INSTALLATION - DRUM BRAKE SHOES....11
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE......12
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION.........................13
OPERATION...........................14
REMOVAL.............................14
DISASSEMBLY.........................14
CLEANING............................16
INSPECTION..........................16
ASSEMBLY............................16
INSTALLATION.........................17
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
REMOVAL.............................18
INSTALLATION.........................18
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................18
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR .............................19
REMOVAL.............................19
INSTALLATION.........................19
JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION.........................20
OPERATION...........................20
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -
PROPORTIONING VALVE...............20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
PEDAL
DESCRIPTION.........................20
OPERATION...........................20
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................21
OPERATION...........................21
KJBRAKES 5 - 1

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)