Lines JEEP LIBERTY 2002 KJ / 1.G Owner's Guide

Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 5). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 6). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C con-
denser for any reason, note the location of all radi-
ator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber
air seals (Fig. 7). These are used at the top, bottom
and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser. To
prevent overheating, these seals must be installed
to their original positions.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at bat-
tery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
Fig. 5 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 6 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 7 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
KJENGINE7s-23
RADIATOR (Continued)

(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 8). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary to
remove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 8 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7s - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)

TRANSMISSION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
TRANS COOLER
DESCRIPTION.........................30STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING
COOLERS AND TUBES.................30
TRANS COOLER
DESCRIPTION
An internal high capacity/high efficiency cooler is
used on all vehicles, these coolers are an oil-to-cool-
ant type, which consists of plates mounted in the
radiator outlet tank.Because the internal oil cooler is
so efficient, no auxiliary oil cooler is offered. The
cooler is not serviceable separately from the radiator.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUSHING
COOLERS AND TUBES
When a transmission failure has contaminated the
fluid, the oil cooler(s) must be flushed. The torque
converter must also be replaced. This will insure that
metal particles or sludged oil are not later trans-
ferred back into the reconditioned (or replaced) trans-
mission.
The only recommended procedure for flushing cool-
ers and lines is to use Tool 6906-B Cooler Flusher.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR THAT
MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF OSHA AND ANSI
Z87.1±1968. WEAR STANDARD INDUSTRIAL RUB-
BER GLOVES. KEEP LIGHTED CIGARETTES,
SPARKS, FLAMES, AND OTHER IGNITION
SOURCES AWAY FROM THE AREA TO PREVENT
THE IGNITION OF COMBUSTIBLE LIQUIDS AND
GASES. KEEP A CLASS (B) FIRE EXTINGUISHER IN
THE AREA WHERE THE FLUSHER WILL BE USED.
KEEP THE AREA WELL VENTILATED.DO NOT LET
FLUSHING SOLVENT COME IN CONTACT WITH
YOUR EYES OR SKIN: IF EYE CONTAMINATION
OCCURS, FLUSH EYES WITH WATER FOR 15 TO 20
SECONDS. REMOVE CONTAMINATED CLOTHING
AND WASH AFFECTED SKIN WITH SOAP AND
WATER. SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION.
(1) Remove cover plate filler plug on Tool 6906-B.
Fill reservoir 1/2 to 3/4 full of fresh flushing solution.
Flushing solvents are petroleum based solutions gen-
erally used to clean automatic transmission compo-
nents.DO NOTuse solvents containing acids, water,
gasoline, or any other corrosive liquids.(2) Reinstall filler plug on Tool 6906-B.
(3) Verify pump power switch is turned OFF. Con-
nect red alligator clip to positive (+) battery post.
Connect black (-) alligator clip to a good ground.
(4) Disconnect the cooler lines at the transmission.
NOTE: When flushing transmission cooler and
lines, ALWAYS reverse flush.
NOTE: The converter drainback valve must be
removed and an appropriate replacement hose
installed to bridge the space between the transmis-
sion cooler line and the cooler fitting. Failure to
remove the drainback valve will prevent reverse
flushing the system. A suitable replacement hose
can be found in the adapter kit supplied with the
flushing tool.
(5) Connect the BLUE pressure line to the OUT-
LET (From) cooler line.
(6) Connect the CLEAR return line to the INLET
(To) cooler line
(7) Turn pump ON for two to three minutes to
flush cooler(s) and lines.
(8) Turn pump OFF.
(9) Disconnect CLEAR suction line from reservoir
at cover plate. Disconnect CLEAR return line at
cover plate, and place it in a drain pan.
(10) Turn pump ON for 30 seconds to purge flush-
ing solution from cooler and lines. Turn pump OFF.
(11) Place CLEAR suction line into a one quart
container of MopartATF +4, type 9602, Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
(12) Turn pump ON until all transmission fluid is
removed from the one quart container and lines. This
purges any residual cleaning solvent from the trans-
mission cooler and lines. Turn pump OFF.
(13) Disconnect alligator clips from battery. Recon-
nect flusher lines to cover plate, and remove flushing
adapters from cooler lines.
7s - 30 TRANSMISSIONKJ

OPERATION
The generator decoupler is used only with
certain engines.The decoupler (Fig. 5). is a one-
way clutch designed to help reduce belt tension fluc-
tuation, vibration, reduce fatigue loads, improve belt
life, reduce hubloads on components, and reduce
noise. Dry operation is used (no grease or lubricants).
The decoupler is not temperature sensitive and also
has a low sensitivity to electrical load. The decoupler
is a non-serviceable item and is to be replaced as an
assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - GENERATOR DECOUPLER
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Does not drive generator (generator not charging) Internal failure Replace decoupler
Noise coming from decoupler Internal failure Replace decoupler
REMOVAL
The generator decoupler is used only with
certain engines.
Two different type generator decoupler pulleys are
used. One can be identified by the use of machined
splines (Fig. 6). The other can be identified by a hex
opening (Fig. 7) and will not use splines.
Different special tools are required to service each
different decoupler. Refer to following procedure.
INA Decoupler
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove generator and accessory drive belt.
Refer to Generator Removal.
(3) Position Special Tool #8823 (VM.1048) into
decoupler (Fig. 8).
(4) Determine if end of generator shaft is hex
shaped (Fig. 9) or is splined (Fig. 10). If hex is used,
insert a 10MM deep socket into tool #8823 (VM.1048)
(Fig. 11). If splined, insert a 5/16º 6-point hex driver,
or a 10MM 12-point triple square driver into tool
#8823 (VM.1048) (Fig. 12).
(5) The generator shaft uses conventional right-
hand threads to attach decoupler. To break decoupler
loose from generator threads, rotate end of tool clock-
wise (Fig. 11) or, (Fig. 12).(6) After breaking loose with tool, unthread decou-
pler by hand from generator.
Fig. 5 GENERATOR DECOUPLER PULLEY
(TYPICAL)
Fig. 6 GENERATOR DECOUPLER PULLEY (INA)
1 - GENERATOR
2 - DECOUPLER (INA)
3 - MACHINED SPLINES
KJCHARGING SYSTEM 8F - 27
GENERATOR DECOUPLER PULLEY (Continued)

Fig. 7 GENERATOR DECOUPLER PULLEY (LITENS)
1 - DECOUPLER (LITENS)
2 - HEX OPENING
Fig. 8 #8823 (VM.1048) TOOL AND INA DECOUPLER
1 - INA DECOUPLER
2 - TOOL #8823 (VM.1048)
Fig. 9 END OF GENERATOR SHAFT (HEX)
1 - GENERATOR SHAFT
2 - HEX
Fig. 10 END OF GENERATOR SHAFT (SPLINED)
1 - GENERATOR SHAFT
2 - SPLINES
8F - 28 CHARGING SYSTEMKJ
GENERATOR DECOUPLER PULLEY (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER SYSTEM
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). The operation of
the electrically heated rear window defogger system
can be confirmed in one of the following manners:
²Turn the ignition switch to the run position.
²Set the defogger switch in the run position. The
rear window defogger operation can be checked by
feeling the rear window or outside rear view mirror
glass. A distinct difference in temperature between
the grid lines and the adjacent clear glass or the mir-
ror glass can be detected within three to four min-
utes of operation.
²Using a 12-volt DC voltmeter, contact the rear
glass heating grid terminal B (right side) with the
negative lead, and terminal A (left side) with the pos-
itive lead (Fig. 1). The voltmeter should read battery
voltage.
The above checks will confirm system operation.
Illumination of the defogger switch indicator lamp
means that there is electrical current available at the
output of the defogger relay, but does not confirmthat the electrical current is reaching the rear glass
heating grid lines.
If the defogger system does not operate, the prob-
lem should be isolated in the following manner:
(1) Confirm that the ignition switch is in the run
position.
(2) Ensure that the rear glass heating grid feed
and ground wires are connected to the glass. Confirm
that the ground wire has continuity to ground.
(3) Check the fuses in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC) and in the junction block. The fuses must
be tight in their receptacles and all electrical connec-
tions must be secure.
When the above steps have been completed and the
rear glass or outside rear view mirror heating grid is
still inoperative, one or more of the following is
faulty:
²Defogger switch
²Defogger relay
²HVAC control head circuitry
²Rear window grid lines (all grid lines would
have to be broken or one of the feed wires discon-
nected for the entire system to be inoperative)
²Outside rear view mirror heating grid.
If setting the defogger switch to the On position
produces a severe voltmeter deflection, check for a
short circuit between the defogger relay output and
the rear glass or outside rear view mirror heating
grids.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REAR GLASS
HEATING GRID REPAIR
Repair of the rear glass heating grid lines, bus
bars, terminals or pigtail wires can be accomplished
using a Mopar Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit
(Part Number 4267922) or equivalent.
WARNING: MATERIALS CONTAINED IN THE REPAIR
KIT MAY CAUSE SKIN OR EYE IRRITATION. THE
KIT CONTAINS EPOXY RESIN AND AMINE TYPE
HARDENER, WHICH ARE HARMFUL IF SWAL-
LOWED. AVOID CONTACT WITH THE SKIN AND
EYES. FOR SKIN CONTACT, WASH THE AFFECTED
AREAS WITH SOAP AND WATER. FOR CONTACT
WITH THE EYES, FLUSH WITH PLENTY OF WATER.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. IF TAKEN INTER-
NALLY, INDUCE VOMITING AND CALL A PHYSICIAN
IMMEDIATELY. USE WITH ADEQUATE VENTILA-
TION. DO NOT USE NEAR FIRE OR FLAME. CON-
TAINS FLAMMABLE SOLVENTS. KEEP OUT OF THE
REACH OF CHILDREN.
(1) Mask the repair area so that the conductive
epoxy can be applied neatly. Extend the epoxy appli-
cation onto the grid line or the bus bar on each side
of the break (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
1 - DEFOGGER BACKGLASS
2 - HEATED GLASS CONNECTOR9A9
3 - HINDGE MOUNTING SCREWS (2)
4 - HINDGE (LEFT SIDE)
5 - HINDGE MOUNTING SCREWS (2)
6 - HINDGE (RIGHT SIDE)
7 - HEATED GLASS CONNECTOR9B9
8 - BACKGLASS DEFOGGER GRID
8G - 4 WINDOW DEFOGGERKJ
WINDOW DEFOGGER (Continued)

(2) Follow the instructions in the repair kit for
preparing the damaged area.
(3) Remove the package separator clamp and mix
the two conductive epoxy components thoroughly
within the packaging. Fold the package in half and
cut the center corner to dispense the epoxy.
(4) For grid line repairs, mask the area to be
repaired with masking tape or a template.
(5) Apply the epoxy through the slit in the mask-
ing tape or template. Overlap both ends of the break
by at least 19 millimeters (0.75 inch).
(6) For a terminal or pigtail wire replacement,
mask the adjacent areas so the epoxy can be
extended onto the adjacent grid line as well as the
bus bar. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the area
where the terminal or pigtail wire was fastened and
onto the adjacent grid line.
(7) Apply a thin layer of conductive epoxy to the
terminal or bare wire end of the pigtail and place it
in the proper location on the bus bar. To prevent the
terminal or pigtail wire from moving while the epoxy
is curing, it must be wedged or clamped.
(8)
Carefully remove the masking tape or template.
CAUTION: Do not allow the glass surface to exceed
204É C (400É F) or the glass may fracture.
(9) Allow the epoxy to cure 24 hours at room tem-
perature, or use a heat gun that will not over heat
the glass. Hold the heat gun approximately 25.4 cen-
timeters (10 inches) from the repair.
(10) After the conductive epoxy is properly cured,
remove the wedge or clamp from the terminal or pig-
tail wire. Do not attach the wire harness connectors
until the curing process is complete.
(11) Check the operation of the rear window defog-
ger glass heating grid.
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
GRID
DESCRIPTION
The heated rear window glass has two electrically
conductive vertical bus bars and a series of 11 hori-
zontal grid lines made of a silver-ceramic material,
which is baked on and bonded to the inside surface of
the glass. The grid lines and bus bars comprise a
parallel electrical circuit.
OPERATION
When the rear window defogger switch is placed in
the On position, electrical current is directed to the
rear window grid lines through the bus bars. The
grid lines heat the rear window to clear the surface
of fog or snow. Protection for the heated grid circuit
is provided by a fuse in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC).
The grid lines and bus bars are highly resistant to
abrasion. However, it is possible for an open circuit
to occur in an individual grid line, resulting in no
current flow through the line.
The grid lines can be damaged or scraped off with
sharp instruments. Care should be taken when clean-
ing the glass or removing foreign materials, decals,
or stickers from the glass. Normal glass cleaning sol-
vents or hot water used with rags or toweling is rec-
ommended.
A repair kit is available to repair the grid lines and
bus bars, or to reinstall the heated glass pigtail
wires.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER GRID
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, (Refer to
Appropriate Wiring Information). To detect breaks in
the grid lines, the following procedure is required:
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the run position.
Set the defogger switch in the On position. The indi-
cator lamp should light. If OK, go to Step 2. If not
OK, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/HEATED GLASS/
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER RELAY - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
(2) Using a 12-volt DC voltmeter, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the right side of the vehicle with the
negative lead. With the positive lead, contact the ver-
tical bus bar on the left side of the vehicle. The volt-
meter should read battery voltage. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the defogger
relay as required.
(3) With the negative lead of the voltmeter, contact
a good body ground point. The voltage reading should
not change. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the
circuit to ground as required.
Fig. 2 GRID LINE REPAIR
1 - BREAK
2 - GRID LINE
3 - MASKING TAPE
KJWINDOW DEFOGGER 8G - 5
WINDOW DEFOGGER (Continued)

(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface perpen-
dicular to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from
the front of the front fog lamp lens (Fig. 16). If nec-
essary, tape a line on the floor 7.62 meters (25 feet)
away from and parallel to the wall.
(2) Measure up on the wall 1.27 meters (5 feet)
from the floor and tape a vertical line on the align-
ment screen at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from the rear of
the vehicle forward) to verify the accuracy of the cen-
terline placement.
(3) Rock the vehicle from side-to-side three times
to allow the suspension to stabilize, then jounce the
front suspension three times by pushing downward
on the front bumper and releasing. Measure the dis-
tance from the center of the front fog lamp lens to
the floor. Transfer this measurement to the align-
ment screen and tape a horizontal line on the wall at
this mark. This line will be used for up-and-down
adjustment reference.
(4) Measure the distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each front fog lamp beingaligned. Transfer these measurements to the align-
ment screen and tape a vertical line this distance to
each side of the vehicle centerline. These lines will be
used for left/right reference.
(5) Rotate the front fog lamp adjusting screws to
adjust the beam height as required (Fig. 17).
FRONT LAMP BULB
REMOVAL
The front lamp unit may contain either one or two
bulbs, depending upon the market for which the
vehicle was manufactured. The service procedures for
one bulb or for both bulbs is the same, only the bulb
sizes and types may differ. Be certain any removed
bulb is replaced with the same bulb size and type
that was removed.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the front lamp unit from the front
bumper fascia. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/
Fig. 16 Front Fog Lamp Alignment - Typical
1 - VEHICLE CENTERLINE
2 - CENTER OF VEHICLE TO CENTER OF FOG LAMP LENS
3 - HIGH-INTENSITY AREA
4 - FLOOR TO CENTER OF FOG LAMP LENS5 - 100 MILLIMETERS (4 INCHES)
6 - 7.62 METERS (25 FEET)
7 - FRONT OF FOG LAMP
8L - 26 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORKJ
FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT (Continued)

the front of the headlamp lens for North American
vehicles, or 10.0 meters (32.81 feet) away from the
front of the headlamp lens for Rest-Of-World vehicles
(Fig. 43). If necessary, tape a line on the floor at the
appropriate distance away from and parallel to the
wall.
(2) Measure up on the wall 1.27 meters (5 feet)
from the floor and tape a vertical line on the align-
ment screen at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from the rear of
the vehicle forward) to verify the accuracy of the cen-
terline placement.
(3) Rock the vehicle from side-to-side three times
to allow the suspension to stabilize, then jounce the
front suspension three times by pushing downward
on the front bumper and releasing. Measure the dis-
tance from the center of the headlamp lens to the
floor. Transfer this measurement to the alignment
screen and tape a horizontal line on the wall at this
mark. This line will be used for up-and-down adjust-
ment reference.(4) Measure the distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer these measurements to the alignment
screen and tape a vertical line this distance to each
side of the vehicle centerline. These lines will be used
for left/right reference.
HEADLAMP ADJUSTMENT
A properly aligned headlamp will project a pattern
on the alignment screen from just below horizontal to
75 millimeters (3 inches) below the headlamp center-
line for vehicles in North America, or from just below
horizontal to 125 millimeters (5 inches) below the
headlamp horizontal centerline for vehicles in Rest-
Of-World.
(1) Vehicles for all markets except Japan should
have the headlamp low beams selected with the dim-
mer (multi-function) switch during the adjustment
procedure. Vehicles for the Japanese market should
have the headlamp high beams selected.
(2) Cover the lens of the headlamp that is not
being adjusted.
Fig. 43 Headlamp Alignment Screen - Typical
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE TO CENTER OF HEADLAMP LENS
2 - FLOOR TO CENTER OF HEADLAMP LENS
3 - 7.62 METERS (25 FEET) NORTH AMERICA/10.0 METERS
(32.81 FEET) REST-OF-WORLD4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP
5 - VEHICLE CENTERLINE
KJLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 43
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

(3) Rock the vehicle from side-to-side three times
to allow the suspension to stabilize, then jounce the
front suspension three times by pushing downward
on the front bumper and releasing. Measure the dis-
tance from the center of the front fog lamp lens to
the floor. Transfer this measurement to the align-
ment screen and tape a horizontal line on the wall at
this mark. This line will be used for up-and-down
adjustment reference.
(4) Measure the distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each front fog lamp being
aligned. Transfer these measurements to the align-
ment screen and tape a vertical line this distance to
each side of the vehicle centerline. These lines will be
used for left/right reference.
(5) Rotate the front fog lamp adjusting screws to
adjust the beam height as required (Fig. 17).
Fig. 16 Front Fog Lamp Alignment - Typical
1 - VEHICLE CENTERLINE
2 - CENTER OF VEHICLE TO CENTER OF FOG LAMP LENS
3 - HIGH-INTENSITY AREA
4 - FLOOR TO CENTER OF FOG LAMP LENS5 - 100 MILLIMETERS (4 INCHES)
6 - 7.62 METERS (25 FEET)
7 - FRONT OF FOG LAMP
Fig. 17 Front Fog Lamp Adjusting Screw
1 - FRONT BUMPER FASCIA
2 - ADJUSTING SCREW
3 - FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT
8Ls - 26 LAMPSKJ
FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT (Continued)