ESP SATURN ION 2007 User Guide

Enhanced Traction System (ETS)
Your vehicle may have an Enhanced Traction
System (ETS) that limits wheel spin. This is
especially useful in slippery road conditions. The
system operates only if it senses that one or
both of the front wheels are spinning or beginning
to lose traction. When this happens, the system
reduces engine power and may also upshift
the transaxle to limit wheel spin.
The LOW TRAC message will be displayed when
your ETS is engaged and limiting wheel spin.
SeeLow Traction Message on page 182. You may
feel or hear the system working, but this is normal.
If your vehicle is in cruise control when the ETS
begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control
will automatically disengage. When road conditions
allow you to safely use it again, you may
re-engage the cruise control. SeeCruise Control
on page 147.
The ETS operates in all transaxle shift lever
positions. But the system can upshift the transaxle
only as high as the shift lever position you have
chosen, so you should use the lower gears
only when necessary.The ETS automatically comes on whenever you
start your vehicle. The light on the traction control
button will also come on to let you know the
system is on. To limit wheel spin, especially in
slippery road conditions, you should always leave
the system on. But you can turn the traction
control system off if you ever need to. You should
turn the system off if your vehicle ever gets
stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the
vehicle is required. SeeRocking Your Vehicle to
Get It Out on page 250andIf Your Vehicle is
Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow on page 249.
To turn the system on
or off, press the
enhanced traction
system button located
on the instrument panel.
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Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a
two-lane highway waits for just the right moment,
accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then
goes back into the right lane again. A simple
maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a
two-lane highway is a potentially dangerous move,
since the passing vehicle occupies the same
lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds.
A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief
surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly
put the passing driver face to face with the worst
of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
Drive ahead. Look down the road, to the
sides, and to crossroads for situations
that might affect your passing patterns. If you
have any doubt whatsoever about making
a successful pass, wait for a better time.
Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings,
and lines. If you can see a sign up ahead
that might indicate a turn or an intersection,
delay your pass. A broken center line
usually indicates it is all right to pass, providing
the road ahead is clear. Never cross a solid
line on your side of the lane or a double solid
line, even if the road seems empty of
approaching traffic.
Do not get too close to the vehicle you want
to pass while you are awaiting an opportunity.
For one thing, following too closely reduces
your area of vision, especially if you are
following a larger vehicle. Also, you will not
have adequate space if the vehicle ahead
suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a
reasonable distance.
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Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough
friction where the tires meet the road to do what the
driver has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to
steer and constantly seek an escape route or
area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking
reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and
by not overdriving those conditions. But skids
are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your
vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid,
your wheels are not rolling. In the steering or
cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a
curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force.
And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle
causes the driving wheels to spin.A cornering skid is best handled by easing your
foot off the accelerator pedal.
If you have the Enhanced Traction System (ETS),
remember: It helps to avoid only the acceleration
skid. SeeEnhanced Traction System (ETS) on
page 226. If you do not have the Enhanced Traction
System, or if the system is off, then an acceleration
skid is also best handled by easing your foot off the
accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you
want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly
enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be
ready for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow,
ice, gravel, or other material is on the road. For
safety, you will want to slow down and adjust your
driving to these conditions. It is important to slow
down on slippery surfaces because stopping
distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
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Slow down, especially on higher speed roads.
Your vehicle’s headlamps can light up only so
much road ahead.
In remote areas, watch for animals.
If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe
place and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime.
But as we get older these differences increase.
A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as
much light to see the same thing at night as a
20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect your
night vision. For example, if you spend the
day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear
sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble
adjusting to night. But if you are driving, do not
wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on
glare from headlamps, but they also make a
lot of things invisible.You can be temporarily blinded by approaching
headlamps. It can take a second or two, or
even several seconds, for your eyes to re-adjust
to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare,
as from a driver who does not lower the high
beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps,
slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into
the approaching headlamps.
Keep the windshield and all the glass on your
vehicle clean — inside and out. Glare at night is
made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even
the inside of the glass can build up a lm caused
by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and
ash more than clean glass would, making the
pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that the headlamps light up far less of a
roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your
eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly
lighted objects. Just as the headlamps should be
checked regularly for proper aim, so should your
eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer
from night blindness — the inability to see in dim
light — and are not even aware of it.
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Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. If you try to drive through owing
water, as you might at a low water
crossing, your vehicle can be carried
away. As little as six inches of owing
water can carry away a smaller vehicle.
If this happens, you and other vehicle
occupants could drown. Do not ignore
police warning signs, and otherwise be
very cautious about trying to drive
through owing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, allow some extra
following distance. And be especially
careful when you pass another vehicle.
Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be
prepared to have your view restricted by
road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth.
SeeTires on page 328.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO
(carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO
could overcome you and kill you. You
cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away
snow from around the base of your
vehicle, especially any that is blocking the
exhaust pipe. And check around again
from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a
little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the
heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and
platform (and attachments), safety chains,
electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror
adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start
your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply
the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead
when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re
a good deal longer when towing a trailer, you
will need to go much farther beyond the passed
vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one
hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left,
just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
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Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you are pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 391for more information.
Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transaxle uid (don’t
overll), engine oil, axle lubricant, drive belt,
cooling system and brake system. Each of these
is covered in this manual, and the Index will
help you nd them quickly. If you are trailering,
it’s a good idea to review this information
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat
during severe operating conditions. SeeEngine
Overheating on page 297.
Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing
If you get a at tire while towing a trailer, be
sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from
the vehicle before changing the tire.
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Low-Prole Performance Tire
(Red Line)
If your vehicle has 215/45ZR17 size tires, they are
classied as low-prole performance tires. These
tires are designed for very responsive driving on
wet or dry pavement. You may also notice more
road noise with low-prole performance tires and
that they tend to wear faster.
Notice:If your vehicle has low-prole tires,
they are more susceptible to damage from road
hazards or curb impact than standard prole
tires. Tire and/or wheel assembly damage
can occur when coming into contact with road
hazards like, potholes, or sharp edged
objects, or when sliding into a curb. Your GM
warranty does not cover this type of damage.
Keep tires set to the correct ination pressure
and, when possible avoid contact with
curbs, potholes, and other road hazards.
Winter Tires (Red Line)
If your vehicle has 215/45ZR17 size tires, they are
classied as low-prole performance tires.
These tires are designed for very responsive
driving on wet or dry pavement. If you expect to
drive on snow or ice covered roads often, you may
want to get winter tires for your vehicle. The
low-prole performance tires may not offer the
traction you would like or the same level of
performance as winter tires on snow or ice
covered roads.
Winter tires, in general, are designed for increased
traction on snow and ice covered roads. With
winter tires, there may be decreased dry
road traction, increased road noise and shorter tire
tread life. After switching to winter tires, be alert
for changes in vehicle handling and braking.
See your retailer for details regarding winter tire
availability and proper tire selection. Also, see
Buying New Tires on page 341.
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Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward
when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on
light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger
vehicles.
Load Index:An assigned number ranging from
1 to 279 that corresponds to the load carrying
capacity of a tire.
Maximum Ination Pressure:The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire may be inated.
The maximum air pressure is molded onto
the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:The load rating for a tire
at the maximum permissible ination pressure
for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:The sum of
curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity
weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight:The number of
occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied
by 150 lbs (68 kg). SeeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 250.Occupant Distribution:Designated seating
positions.
Outward Facing Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire that has a particular side that
faces outward when mounted on a vehicle.
The side of the tire that contains a whitewall, bears
white lettering, or bears manufacturer, brand,
and/or model name molding that is higher
or deeper than the same moldings on the other
sidewall of the tire.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire:A tire used on
passenger cars and some light duty trucks and
multipurpose vehicles.
Recommended Ination Pressure:Vehicle
manufacturer’s recommended tire ination
pressure as shown on the tire placard. See
Ination - Tire Pressure on page 337andLoading
Your Vehicle on page 250.
Radial Ply Tire:A pneumatic tire in which the
ply cords that extend to the beads are laid
at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Rim:A metal support for a tire and upon which
the tire beads are seated.
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