stop start BMW 3 SERIES 1983 E30 Workshop Manual

0•7Anti-theft audio system
Anti-theft audio system
General information
Some models are equipped with an audio
system having an anti-theft feature that will
render the stereo inoperative if stolen. If the
power source to the stereo is cut, the stereo
won’t work even if the power source is
immediately re-connected. If your vehicle is
equipped with this anti-theft system, do not
disconnect the battery or remove the stereo
unless you have the individual code number
for the stereo.
Refer to the owner’s handbook suppliedwith the vehicle for more complete
information on this audio system and its anti-
theft feature.
Unlocking procedure
1Turn on the radio. The word “CODE” should
appear on the display.
2Using the station preset selector buttons,
enter the five-digit code. If you make a
mistake when entering the code, continue
the five-digit sequence anyway. If you hear
a “beep,” however, stop immediately andstart the sequence over again. Note: Yo u
have three attempts to enter the correct
code. If the correct code isn’t entered in
three tries, you’ll have to wait one hour, with
the radio on, before you enter the codes
again.
5Once the code has been entered correctly,
the word “CODE” should disappear from the
display, and the radio should play (you’ll have
to tune-in and enter your preset stations,
however).
6If you have lost your code number, contact
a BMW dealer service department.
Instrument panel language display
On some later models, disconnecting the
battery may cause the instrument panel
display to default to the German language
(this does not usually apply to UK models). If
it is necessary to reset the correct language
after the battery is reconnected, proceed as
follows. With all the doors shut and theignition on (engine not running), press the trip
reset button until the panel displays the
desired language. There are eight languages
available. If you wish to bypass a particular
selection, release the reset button and press
again - this will cause the display to advance
to the next language. Once the correctlanguage has been selected, continue holding
the reset button until the display reads “I.O.
Version 2.0”. Continue holding the button until
it reads “H.P. Version 3.4”, then release the
button.

Cartridge-type oil filter
17Some models are equipped with a
cartridge-type oil filter. Unscrew the bolt,
remove the cover, and lift the filter out (see
illustrations).
18Compare the new cartridge with the old
one, to make sure they are the same type,
then lower it into the housing.
19Using a clean rag, wipe off the mounting
surface of the housing and cover. If necessary,
renew the rubber O-ring (see illustration).
Smear some clean oil on the O-ring and refit
the cover and bolt. Tighten the bolt securely.
All models
20Remove all tools and materials from under
the vehicle, being careful not to spill the oil
from the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.
21Add new oil to the engine through the oil
filler cap in the valve cover. Use a funnel to
prevent oil from spilling onto the top of the
engine. Pour the specified quantity of fresh oil
into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the
oil to drain into the sump, then check the level
on the dipstick (see Section 4 if necessary). If
the oil level is correct, refit the filler cap.
22Start the engine and run it for about a
minute. The oil pressure warning light may
take a few seconds to go out while the new
filter fills with oil; don’t rev the engine while
the light is on. While the engine is running,
look under the vehicle, and check for leaks at
the sump drain plug and around the oil filter. Ifeither one is leaking, stop the engine and
tighten the plug or filter slightly.
23Wait a few minutes, then recheck the level
on the dipstick. Add oil as necessary.
24During the first few days after an oil
change, make it a point to check frequently
for leaks and proper oil level.
25The old oil drained from the engine cannot
be re-used in its present state, and should be
discarded. Oil reclamation centres and some
service stations will accept the oil, which can
be recycled. After the oil has cooled, it can be
transferred into a container for transport to a
disposal site.
7 Power steering fluid level
check
1
1Check the power steering fluid level
periodically to avoid steering system
problems, such as damage to the pump.
Proceed as follows.Caution: Do not hold the steering
wheel against either stop (full-left
or full-right lock) for more than
five seconds. If you do, the power
steering pump could be damaged.
2On some models, the power steering fluid
reservoir is located on the left side of the
engine compartment, and has a twist-off cap
with an integral fluid level dipstick (see
illustration). Other models use a hydraulic
power steering and brake servo system which
combines the fluid in one reservoir, located at
the right rear corner of the engine
compartment.
3Park the vehicle on level ground, and apply
the handbrake.
4On models with a fluid dipstick, run the
engine until it has reached normal operating
temperature. With the engine at idle, turn the
steering wheel back and forth several times to
get any air out of the steering system. Switch
off the engine, remove the cap by turning it
anti-clockwise, wipe the dipstick clean, and
refit the cap. Remove the cap again, and note
the fluid level. It must be between the two
lines (see illustration).
5On hydraulic servo models, pump the brake
pedal about ten times or until the pedal is firm.
Remove the nut, lift the cap off, and make
sure the fluid is within 6.0 mm of the top of the
reservoir.
6Add small amounts of fluid until the level is
correct (see illustration).
1•12
7.6 Adding fluid to the power steering
reservoir7.4 The power steering fluid level should
be kept between the two arrows near the
upper step on the dipstick7.2 The power steering fluid reservoir
(arrowed) is located on the left side of the
engine compartment
6.19 Renewing the rubber O-ring in the
cover6.17c . . . and lift out the cartridge
Every 6000 miles
6.17b . . . remove the cover . . .
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

17 Throttle body- check,
removal and refitting
2
Check
1Detach the air intake duct from the throttle
body (see Section 8) and move the duct out of
the way.
2Have an assistant depress the throttle
pedal while you watch the throttle valve.
Check that the throttle valve moves smoothly
when the throttle is moved from closed (idle
position) to fully-open (wide-open throttle).
3If the throttle valve is not working properly,
renew the throttle body unit.
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Removal and refitting
4Detach the battery negative cable.
5Detach the air intake duct from the throttle
body, and place to one side.
6Detach the accelerator cable from the
throttle body (see Section 9).
7Detach the cruise control cable, if applicable.
8Clearly label all electrical connectors
(throttle position sensor, cold start injector,
idle air stabiliser, etc), then unplug them.
9Clearly label all vacuum hoses, then detach
them.
10Unscrew the radiator or expansion tank
cap to relieve any residual pressure in the
cooling system, then refit it. Clamp shut the
coolant hoses, then loosen the hose clamps
and detach the hoses. Be prepared for some
coolant leakage.11Remove the throttle body mounting nuts
(upper) and bolts (lower), and detach the
throttle body from the air intake plenum (see
illustration).
12Cover the air intake plenum opening with
a clean cloth, to prevent dust or dirt from
entering while the throttle body is removed.
13Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten the throttle body mounting nuts to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifica-
tions, and adjust the throttle cable (see
Section 9) on completion.
18 Fuel pressure regulator-
check and renewal
3
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
Check
1Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2).
2Detach the battery negative cable.
3Disconnect the fuel line and connect a fuel
pressure gauge (see Section 3). Reconnect
the battery.4Pressurise the fuel system (refit the fuel
pump fuse and switch on the ignition), and
check for leakage around the gauge
connections.
5Connect a vacuum pump to the fuel
pressure regulator (see illustration).
6Run the fuel pump (see Section 3). Read the
fuel pressure gauge with vacuum applied to
the pressure regulator, and also with no
vacuum applied. The fuel pressure should
decrease as vacuum increases.
7Stop the fuel pump and reconnect the
vacuum hose to the regulator. Start the engine
and check the fuel system pressure at idle,
comparing your reading with the value listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications. Disconnect
the vacuum hose and watch the gauge - the
pressure should jump up to maximum as soon
as the hose is disconnected.
8If the fuel pressure is low, pinch the fuel
return line shut and watch the gauge. If the
pressure doesn’t rise, the fuel pump is
defective, or there is a restriction in the fuel
feed line. If the pressure now rises sharply,
renew the pressure regulator.
9If the indicated fuel pressure is too high,
stop the engine, disconnect the fuel return line
and blow through it to check for a blockage. If
there is no blockage, renew the fuel pressure
regulator.
10If the pressure doesn’t fluctuate as
described in paragraph 7, connect a vacuum
4•16 Fuel and exhaust systems
18.5 Carefully watch the fuel pressure
gauge as vacuum is applied (fuel pressure
should decrease as vacuum increases)
17.11 Remove the nuts (arrowed) and lift
the throttle body from the intake manifold
(the two lower bolts are hidden from view)16.11b Remove the nuts (arrowed) from
the air cleaner housing, and detach the
airflow meter16.11a Push the tab and remove the air
duct from inside the air cleaner assembly

6If the voltage is correct, unplug the
electrical connector and, using an ohmmeter,
check for continuity between the terminals of
the thermotime switch (see illustration).
Continuity should exist.
7Reconnect the coil lead, start the engine
and warm it up above 41ºC. When the engine
is warm, there should be no continuity
between the terminals. If there is, the switch is
faulty and must be renewed. Note: On 5-
Series models, there are several types of
thermotime switch. Each one is stamped with
an opening temperature and maximum
duration.
Renewal
Cold start injector
8Depressurise the fuel system (see Sec-
tion 2).
9Disconnect the electrical connector from
the cold start injector.
10Where applicable, using a ring spanner or
deep socket, remove the fuel line fitting
connected to the cold start injector. On other
models, simply loosen the hose clamp and
detach the hose from the injector.
11Remove the cold start injector securing
bolts, and remove the injector.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal. Clean
the mating surfaces, and use a new gasket.
Thermotime switch
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before beginning
this procedure. Also, remove the
cap from the expansion tank or
radiator to relieve any residual pressure in
the cooling system.
13Prepare the new thermotime switch for
fitting by applying a light coat of thread
sealant to the threads.
14Disconnect the electrical connector from
the old thermotime switch.
15Using a deep socket, or a ring spanner,
unscrew the switch. Once the switch is
removed coolant will start to leak out, so
insert the new switch as quickly as possible.
Tighten the switch securely, and plug in the
electrical connector.
20 Fuel injectors-
check and renewal
2
Warning: Fuel is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. Don’t
smoke, or allow open flames or bare light
bulbs, near the work area. Don’t work in a
garage where a natural gas-type appliance
(such as a water heater or clothes dryer)
with a pilot light is present. If you spill any
fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately
with soap and water. When you perform
any kind of work on the fuel system, wear
safety glasses, and have a fire
extinguisher on hand.
Check
In-vehicle check
1Using a mechanic’s stethoscope (available
at most car accessory shops), check for a
clicking sound at each of the injectors while
the engine is idling (see illustration 15.7).
2The injectors should make a steady clicking
sound if they are operating properly.
3Increase the engine speed above 3500 rpm.
The frequency of the clicking sound should
rise with engine speed.
4If an injector isn’t functioning (not clicking),
purchase a special injector test light (a car
accessory shop or fuel injection specialist
may be able to help) and connect it to the
injector electrical connector. Start the engine
and make sure the light flashes. If it does, the
injector is receiving the proper voltage, so the
injector itself must be faulty.
5Unplug each injector connector, and checkthe resistance of the injector (see
illustration). Check your readings with the
values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Renew any that do not give the correct
resistance reading.
Volume test
6Because a special injection checker is
required to test injector volume, this
procedure is beyond the scope of the home
mechanic. Have the injector volume test
performed by a BMW dealer or other
specialist.
Renewal
7Unplug the main electrical connector for the
fuel injector wiring harness. Remove the
intake manifold (see Chapter 2A).
8Detach the fuel hoses from the fuel rail, and
remove the fuel rail mounting bolts (see
illustration).
9Lift the fuel rail/injector assembly from the
intake manifold.
10Unplug the electrical connectors from the
fuel injectors. Detach the injectors from the
fuel rail.
11Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to renew all O-rings. Coat the O-rings with a
light film of engine oil to prevent damage
during refitting. Pressurise the fuel system
(refit the fuel pump fuse and switch on the
ignition) and check for leaks before starting
the engine.
21 Idle air stabiliser valve-
check, adjustment and
renewal
4
1The idle air stabiliser system works to
maintain engine idle speed within a 200 rpm
range, regardless of varying engine loads at
idle. An electrically-operated valve allows a
small amount of air to bypass the throttle
plate, to raise the idle speed whenever the idle
speed drops below approximately 750 rpm. If
the idle speed rises above approximately
950 rpm, the idle air stabiliser valve closes
and stops extra air from bypassing the throttle
plate, reducing the idle speed.
4•18 Fuel and exhaust systems
20.8 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and
separate the fuel rail and injectors from
the intake manifold20.5 Check the resistance of each of the
fuel injectors19.6 Check the resistance of the
thermotime switch with the engine coolant
temperature below 30º C. There should be
continuity
If you don’t have a
mechanic’s stethoscope, a
screwdriver can be used to
check for a clicking sound at
the injectors. Place the tip of the
screwdriver against the injector, and
press your ear against the handle.

8Use a digital voltmeter for the following
tests:
a) On Bosch systems, connect the positive
probe to connector terminal 5, and the
negative probe to terminal 6 (see
illustration).
b) On Siemens/Telefunken systems, connect
the positive probe to terminal (+) of the
smaller connector, and the negative
probe to terminal (-).
9Have an assistant crank the engine over,
and check that there is 1 to 2 volts A/C
present. If there is no voltage, check the
wiring harness between the impulse generator
(in the distributor) and the control unit. If the
harness is OK, check the impulse generator
resistance.
Warning: Do not crank the
engine over for an excessive
length of time. If necessary,
disconnect the cold start injector
electrical connector (see Chapter 4) to
stop the flow of fuel into the engine.
10To check the resistance in the impulse
generator, proceed as described for your
system below:
a) On Bosch units, measure the resistance
between connector terminals 5 and 6
(see illustration 10.8). The reading
should be 1000 to 1200 ohms.
b) On Siemens/Telefunken units, measure
the resistance between the terminals of
the smaller connector. The reading should
be 1000 to 1200 ohms.
11If the resistance readings are incorrect,
renew the impulse generator. If the resistance
readings for the impulse generator are correct
and the control unit voltages (supply voltage
[paragraphs 1 to 6] and signal voltage
[paragraphs 7 to 9]) are incorrect, renew the
control unit.
Renewal
Ignition control unit
12Make sure the ignition is switched off.
13Disconnect the electrical connector(s)
from the control unit.
14Remove the mounting screws from the
control unit, and lift it from the engine
compartment.15Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:
On Bosch control units, a special dielectric
grease is used between the heat sink and the
back of the control unit. In the event the two
are separated (renewal or testing) the old
grease must be removed, and the heat sink
cleaned off using 180-grit sandpaper. Apply
Curil K2 (Bosch part number 81 22 9 243). A
silicon dielectric compound can be used as a
substitute. This treatment is very important for
the long life of these expensive ignition parts.
Impulse generator
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
16Disconnect the battery negative cable.
17Remove the distributor from the engine
(see Section 8).
18Using a pair of circlip pliers, remove the
circlip retaining the trigger wheel (see
illustration).
19Use two flat-bladed screwdrivers
positioned at opposite sides of the trigger
wheel, and carefully prise it up (see
illustration). Note: Push the screwdrivers in
as far as possible without bending the trigger
wheel. Prise only on the strongest, centre
portion of the trigger wheel. In the event the
trigger wheel is bent, it must be replaced with
a new one. Note:Be sure not to lose the roll
pin when lifting out the trigger wheel.
20Remove the mounting screws from the
impulse generator electrical connector, the
vacuum diaphragm and the baseplate.
21Remove the two screws from the vacuum
advance unit, and separate it from the
distributor by moving the assembly down
while unhooking it from the baseplate pin.
22Use circlip pliers to remove the circlip that
retains the impulse generator and the
baseplate assembly.
23Carefully remove the impulse generator
and the baseplate assembly as a single unit.24Remove the three screws, and separate
the baseplate assembly from the impulse
generator.
25Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:
Be sure to position the insulating ring between
the generator coil and the baseplate. It must
be centred before tightening the mounting
screws. Also, it will be necessary to
check/adjust the air gap if the trigger wheel
has been removed, or tampered with to the
point that the clearance is incorrect (see
Section 11).
11 Air gap (TCI system)-
check and adjustment
2
Caution: If the radio in your
vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you
have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery. Refer to
the information on page 0-7 at the front of
this manual before detaching the cable.
Note: If, after connecting the battery, the
wrong language appears on the instrument
panel display, refer to page 0-7 for the
language resetting procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2Insert a brass feeler gauge between the
trigger wheel tab and the impulse generator
(see illustration). Slide the feeler gauge up
Engine electrical systems 5•7
10.19 Carefully prise the trigger wheel off
the distributor shaft10.18 Use circlip pliers and remove the
circlip from the distributor shaft10.8 Back-probe the ignition control unit
connector, and check for signal voltage on
terminals 5 and 6 (Bosch system shown). It
is very helpful to use angled probes
11.2 Use a brass feeler gauge to check
the air gap (be sure the gauge rubs lightly
against the trigger wheel as well as the
locating pin for the correct adjustment)
5

slightly by hand. Release the throttle slowly
until it reaches 0.2 to 0.6 mm from the throttle
stop. There should be continuity.
29Check the resistance between terminals 3
and 18 as the throttle is opened. There should
be continuity when the throttle switch is within
8 to 12 degrees of fully-open. If the readings
are incorrect, adjust the TPS.
30If all the resistance readings are correct
and the TPS is properly adjusted, check for
power (5 volts) at the sensor, and if necessary
trace any wiring circuit problems between the
sensor and ECU (see Chapter 12).
Adjustment
31If the adjustment is not as specified
(paragraphs 28 to 30), loosen the screws on
the TPS, and rotate the sensor into the correct
adjustment. Follow the procedure for
checking the TPS given above, and tighten
the screws when the setting is correct.
32Recheck the TPS once more; if the
readings are correct, reconnect the TPS
harness connector.
Early 535i models with automatic
transmission
Check
33First test the continuity of the TPS. Follow
paragraphs 28 to 30 and check for continuity.
34Next, test the idle position switch (see
illustration). Unplug the electrical connector
in the idle position switch harness, andconnect an ohmmeter to terminals 1 and 2.
There should be continuity. Open the throttle
slightly, and measure the resistance. There
should now be no continuity.
35Check for the correct voltage signals from
the TPS, with the throttle closed and the
ignition on. Probe the back of the TPS
connector with a voltmeter, and check for
voltage at terminal 3 (black wire) and earth.
There should be 5 volts present. Also, probe
terminal 3 (black wire) and terminal 1 (brown
wire). There should be 5 volts present here
also.
36Check for voltage at terminal 2 (yellow
wire) and terminal 1 (brown wire), and slowly
open the throttle. The voltage should increase
steadily from 0.7 volts (throttle closed) to
4.8 volts (throttle fully-open).
Adjustment
37First measure the stabilised voltage. With
the ignition on and the throttle closed,
measure the voltage between terminal 3
(black wire) and terminal 1 (brown wire). It
should be about 5 volts.
38Next, loosen the sensor mounting screws,
and connect the voltmeter to terminal 2
(yellow wire) and terminal 3 (black wire). With
the throttle fully open, rotate the switch until
there is 0.20 to 0.24 volts less than the
stabilised voltage. Note: You will need a
digital voltmeter to measure these small
changes in voltage.
39Recheck the TPS once more; if the
readings are correct, reconnect the TPS
electrical connector. It is a good idea to lock
the TPS screws with paint or thread-locking
compound.
Airflow meter
General description
40The airflow meter is located on the air
intake duct. The airflow meter measures the
amount of air entering the engine. The ECU
uses this information to control fuel delivery. A
large volume of air indicates acceleration,
while a small volume of air indicates
deceleration or idle. Refer to Chapter 4 for all
the diagnostic checks and renewal
procedures for the airflow meter.
Ignition timing sensors
41Ignition timing is electronically-controlled
on Motronic systems, and is not adjustable.
During starting, a crankshaft position sensor
relays the crankshaft position to the ECU, and
an initial baseline ignition point is determined.
Once the engine is running, the ignition point
is continually changing based on the various
input signals to the ECU. Engine speed is
signalled by a speed sensor. Early Motronic
systems have the reference sensor and the
speed sensor mounted on the bellhousing
over the flywheel. Later Motronic systems
have a single sensor (pulse sensor) mounted
over the crankshaft pulley. This sensor
functions as a speed sensor as well as a
position sensor. Refer to Chapter 5 for more
information. Note: Some models are
equipped with a TDC sensor mounted on the
front of the engine. This sensor is strictly for
the BMW service test unit, and it is not part of
the Motronic ignition system.
5 Positive crankcase
ventilation (PCV) system
1The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
system (see illustration)reduces
hydrocarbon emissions by scavenging
crankcase vapours. It does this by circulating
blow-by gases and then re-routing them to
the intake manifold by way of the air cleaner.
2This PCV system is a sealed system. The
crankcase blow-by vapours are routed
directly to the air cleaner or air collector with
crankcase pressure behind them. The vapour
is not purged with fresh air on most models or
6•4 Engine management and emission control systems
5.2 PCV hose being removed from the
valve cover5.1 Diagram of the PCV system on the
M20 engine (others similar)4.34 Idle position switch and TPS on early
535i models with automatic transmission
4.28c . . . then check for continuity
between terminals 3 and 18 as the throttle
is opened

On some models, it will be necessary to
release the retaining clip (see illustration).
13Visually examine the canister for leakage
or damage.
14Renew the canister if you find evidence of
damage or leakage.
7 Catalytic converter
1
General description
1To reduce emissions of unburnt
hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO)
and oxides of nitrogen (NOx), the later
vehicles covered by this manual are equipped
with a catalytic converter (see illustration).
The converter contains a ceramic honeycomb
coated with precious metals, which speed up
the reaction between the pollutants listed
previously and the oxygen in the exhaust gas.
The pollutants are oxidised to produce water
(H
2O), nitrogen and carbon dioxide (CO2).
Check
2Visually examine the converter(s) for cracks
or damage. Make sure all nuts and bolts are
tight.
3Inspect the insulation cover (if applicable)
welded onto the converter - it should not be
loose.
Caution: If an insulation cover is
dented so that it touches the
converter housing inside,
excessive heat may be
transferred to the floor.
4Start the engine and run it at idle speed.
5Check for exhaust gas leakage from the
converter flanges. Check the body of each
converter for holes.
Component renewal
6See Chapter 4 for removal and refitting
procedures.
Precautions
7The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware, if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.
(a) DO NOT use leaded (eg UK “4-star”)
petrol in a car equipped with a catalytic
converter - the lead will coat the precious
metals, reducing their converting
efficiency, and will eventually destroy the
converter.
(b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule, as given in
Chapter 1. In particular, ensure that the air
cleaner filter element, the fuel filter (where
fitted) and the spark plugs are renewed at
the correct interval. If the intake air/fuel
mixture is allowed to become too rich due
to neglect, unburned fuel will enter the
catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
(c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
(d) DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start - see (b) or (c)
above.
(e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds - ie do not “blip” the
throttle immediately before switching offthe engine. If the ignition is switched off
at anything above idle speed, unburned
fuel will enter the (very hot) catalytic
converter, with the possible risk of its
igniting on the element and damaging the
converter.
(f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
(g) DO NOT continue to use the car if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages, and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases, the element will overheat.
(h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
hence the heat shields on the car’s
underbody - and the casing will become
hot enough to ignite combustible
materials which brush against it. DO NOT,
therefore, park the car in dry
undergrowth, or over long grass or piles
of dead leaves.
(i) Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools
during servicing work, and take great care
when working on the exhaust system.
Ensure that the converter is well clear of
any jacks or other lifting gear used to raise
the car, and do not drive the car over
rough ground, road humps, etc, in such a
way as to “ground” the exhaust system.
(j) In some cases, particularly when the car
is new and/or is used for stop/start
driving, a sulphurous smell (like that of
rotten eggs) may be noticed from the
exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped cars, and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrols reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust, to produce
hydrogen sulphide (H
2S) gas; while this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the car
has covered a few thousand miles, the
problem should disappear - in the
meanwhile, a change of driving style, or of
the brand of petrol used, may effect a
solution.
(k) The catalytic converter, used on a well-
maintained and well-driven car, should
last for 50 000 to 100 000 miles - from
this point on, the CO level should be
carefully checked regularly, to ensure that
the converter is still operating efficiently. If
the converter is no longer effective, it
must be renewed.
6•6 Engine management and emission control systems
7.1 Typical catalytic converter (M10
engine type shown, others similar)6.12 EVAP system charcoal canister
viewed from under the vehicle (316i model)

expel the air from the master cylinder. A large
Phillips screwdriver can be used to push on
the piston assembly.
11To prevent air from being drawn back into
the master cylinder, the plug must be refitted
and tightened down before releasing the
pressure on the piston assembly.
12Repeat the procedure until brake fluid free
of air bubbles is expelled from the brake line
outlet hole. Repeat the procedure with the
other outlet hole and plug. Be sure to keep the
master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid, to prevent the introduction of air into the
system.
13High pressure is not involved in the bench
bleeding procedure, so the plugs described
above need not be refitted each time the
piston is released, if wished. Instead, before
releasing the piston, simply put your finger
tightly over the hole to keep air from being
drawn back into the master cylinder. Wait
several seconds for brake fluid to be drawn
from the reservoir into the piston bore, then
depress the piston again, removing your
finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put
your finger back over the hole each time
before releasing the piston, and when the
bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet,
refit the plug and tighten it up before going on
to the other port.
Refitting
14Refit the master cylinder (together with a
new O-ring) over the studs on the brake servo,
and tighten the mounting nuts only finger-tight
at this time.
15Thread the brake line fittings into the
master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is
still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly in
order for the fittings to thread in easily. Do not
strip the threads as the fittings are tightened.
16Tighten the brake fittings securely, and
the mounting nuts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
17Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid,
then bleed the master cylinder (only if the
cylinder has not already been bled) and the
brake system as described in Section 16.
18To bleed the cylinder on the vehicle, have
an assistant pump the brake pedal severaltimes and then hold the pedal to the floor.
Loosen the fitting nut to allow air and fluid to
escape, then tighten the nut. Repeat this
procedure on both fittings until the fluid is
clear of air bubbles. Test the operation of the
brake system carefully before returning the
vehicle to normal service.
8 Brake vacuum servo-
check, removal and refitting
3
Operating check
1Depress the brake pedal several times with
the engine off, until there is no change in the
pedal travel.
2Depress and hold the pedal, then start the
engine. If the pedal goes down slightly,
operation is normal.
Airtightness check
3Start the engine, and turn it off after one or
two minutes. Depress the brake pedal several
times slowly. If the pedal goes down further
the first time but gradually rises after the
second or third depression, the servo is
airtight.
4Depress the brake pedal while the engine is
running, then stop the engine with the pedal
depressed. If there is no change in the pedal
travel after holding the pedal for 30 seconds,
the servo is airtight.
Removal and refitting
5Dismantling the vacuum servo requires
special tools, and cannot be performed by the
home mechanic. If a problem develops, it is
recommended that a new unit be fitted.
6Remove the master cylinder as described in
Section 7.
7Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
brake servo.
8Working in the passenger compartment,
remove the glovebox and lower left-hand trim
panels.
9Remove the clip and clevis pin to
disconnect the pushrod from the cross-shaft
lever (right-hand-drive models) or brake pedal(left-hand-drive models) (see illustration). On
left-hand-drive models, also disconnect the
brake pedal return spring.
10Remove the four mounting nuts (see
illustration)and withdraw the servo unit from
the engine compartment.
11Inspect the small foam filter (see
illustration)inside the rubber boot on the
pushrod. If the filter is clogged, it may affect
the servo’s performance. To clean the filter,
wash it in a mild soapy solution. If it’s still
dirty, renew it.
12Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the brake servo mounting
nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Before you slide the boot into
place over the servo pushrod air filter, make
sure the notches in the filter offset the notches
in the damper by 180 degrees.
13On 3-Series models, adjust the basic
setting of the pushrod’s threaded clevis until
the dimension is correct (see illustration).
When the basic setting is correct, tighten the
locknut, then adjust the brake pedal travel and
9•10 Braking system
8.13 On 3-Series models, adjust
dimension A (the distance between the
middle of the brake lever and the
bulkhead/”firewall”) by loosening the
locknut (1) at the pushrod clevis (2) and
turning the threaded part of the pushrod
until dimension A matches the dimension
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
When the basic setting is correct, tighten
the locknut, then adjust the brake pedal
height and the stop-light switch
8.11 An exploded view of a typical servo
pushrod assembly
1 Boot 2 Holder 3 Damper 4 Air filter8.10 Remove the four mounting nuts
(arrows) and withdraw the servo unit from
the engine compartment
(left-hand-drive model shown)
8.9 Disconnect the brake pedal return
spring, then remove the clip and clevis pin
(arrows) to disconnect the pushrod from
the brake pedal (left-hand-drive models)

the stop-light switch (see Section 13). Note:
On right-hand-drive models, the brake pedal
in on the right-hand side of the vehicle, and is
connected to the left-hand side by a cross-
shaft. The adjustment is carried out on the
pushrod at the left-hand side, but the
dimension is measured at the pedal on the
right-hand side.
14On 5-Series models, adjust the brake
pedal height and the stop-light switch (see
Section 13).
15Refit the master cylinder (see Section 7)
and attach the vacuum hose.
16Carefully test the operation of the brakes
before returning the vehicle to normal use
9 Hydraulic brake servo-
description, removal and
refitting
3
Warning: Brake fluid is
poisonous. It is also an effective
paint stripper. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 16.
Description
1On 5-Series E28 (“old-shape”) models, a
hydraulic brake servo system is fitted. The
servo unit, located between the brake pedal
(left-hand-drive) or cross-shaft lever (right-
hand-drive) and the master cylinder, is
operated by hydraulic pressure generated by
the power steering pump. When the engine is
running, the power steering pump supplies
hydraulic pressure to a power flow regulator/
accumulator. The regulator/accumulator
stores and regulates the pressure to the
hydraulic brake servo. When you press the
brake pedal, the pressure in the servo helps
actuate the master cylinder, reducing pedal
effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo cannot be
overhauled; if it fails, a new one must be fitted.
Testing the system requires special tools, so
even fault diagnosis is beyond the scope of
the home mechanic. If the system fails, take it
to a dealer service department or other
qualified garage for repairs.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
20 times or more.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 7).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply line fittings, then disconnect them.
Plug the lines, to prevent dirt from entering the
system, and to prevent further fluid loss.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt
can damage the servo, so be
extremely careful to prevent dirt
from entering the system while
the lines are disconnected.
6Working from inside the passenger
compartment, remove the lower left trim
panels above the brake pedal (left-hand-drive
models) or glovebox and trim (right-hand-drive models). On left-hand-drive models, also
disconnect the pedal return spring.
7Prise off the retaining clip, and disconnect
the pushrod from the brake pedal (see
illustration 8.9) or cross-shaft lever.
8Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illus-
tration 8.10).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic lines to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Note:Don’t try to
tighten these fittings without a torque wrench.
If they’re loose, they can leak, which can affect
system operation; if they’re tight, they can be
damaged, and they’ll also leak. You’ll need a
crowfoot-type split ring (“brake”) attachment
for your torque wrench to tighten the fittings
properly.
10When you’re done, bleed the brake
hydraulic system (Section 16) and adjust the
brake pedal travel and the stop-light switch
(see Section 13).
10 Handbrake cable(s)- renewal
2
1Peel back the boot at the base of the
handbrake lever, and remove the handbrake
cable adjusting nut (see illustration)which
also secures the cable to the handbrake lever.There are two cables - one for each rear wheel
- and a nut for each cable. On some models, it
may be necessary to remove the centre
console completely for access.
2Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
3Remove the rear brake drum (see Section 6)
or rear brake disc (see Section 5).
4On rear drum models, unhook the
handbrake cable from the lever on the rear
brake shoe (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, remove the handbrake shoes and the
actuator (see Section 12) and unhook the
handbrake cable from the actuator (see
illustrations).
5On rear drum models, pull the cable and
cable conduit (tube) out of the back of the
brake backplate, then detach the cable
conduit from the cable clips on the back of
the trailing arm (it’s easier to pull out the old
cable, and fit the new cable, with the conduit
straight instead of curved). On rear disc
models, it’s unnecessary to detach the cable
conduit from the brake backplate, but it’s a
good idea to detach the conduit from the clips
and guides securing it to the trailing arm, to
take some of the bend out of the conduit.
6Working from the wheel end of the cable
conduit, pull the cable out of the conduit (see
illustration).
7Lubricate the new cable with multi-purpose
grease, then insert it into the cable conduit
Braking system 9•11
10.1 Peel back the handbrake lever boot
and remove the relevant handbrake cable
adjusting nut (both arrowed)
10.6 Pull the cable out of its conduit;
before you refit the new cable, be sure to
lubricate it with multi-purpose grease10.4b . . . then remove the pin securing the
cable to the inner cam, and remove the
inner cam
10.4a To detach the handbrake cable from
the handbrake actuator on models with rear
disc brakes, pull on the outer cam and
disconnect it from the inner cam . . .
9

and push it through until the forward end
comes out at the handbrake lever.
8Insert the cable conduit through the
backplate, and attach the rear end of the
cable to the handbrake lever (rear drum
models) or the actuator (rear disc models).
Make sure you don’t kink the cable while
connecting it.
9Refit the cable conduit to the clips on the
back of the trailing arm.
10On rear drum models, refit the brake
shoes and drum (see Section 6). On rear disc
models, refit the handbrake shoes and
actuator (see Section 12) and the rear brake
disc (see Section 5).
11Lower the vehicle, and refit the adjusting
nut at the handbrake lever. Adjust the
handbrake cable (see Section 11) and refit the
handbrake lever boot.
11 Handbrake- adjustment
2
Rear drum brake models
Note:Adjustment of the handbrake cable(s)
on models with rear drum brakes should only
be necessary when you renew a cable or
detach if from the rear brake assembly for
some reason. Failure of the handbrake system
to hold the vehicle usually indicates worn
brake shoes or a faulty self-adjusting
mechanism.
1Raise the rear of the vehicle, and place it
securely on axle stands.
2Fully release the handbrake lever, then
apply the brakes firmly several times with the
footbrake pedal.
3Pull the handbrake lever up five clicks.
4Tighten or loosen the adjusting nuts by
equal amounts until the rear brake shoes just
begin to drag on the brake drum. You should
feel the same amount of resistance at both
wheels when you rotate them.
5Release the handbrake lever, and verify that
the wheels rotate freely. If they don’t, re-
adjust them.
Rear disc brake models
Note: The handbrake system is not self-
adjusting on models with rear disc brakes. The
handbrake therefore requires periodic
adjustment to compensate for wear. It should
also be adjusted anytime either cable, brake
disc or handbrake assembly is renewed or
removed for some reason.
6Slowly apply the handbrake, and count the
number of clicks at the lever. If the lever can
be pulled up further than the eighth click,
adjust the handbrake cable as follows.
7Peel back the handbrake lever boot, and
loosen the cable adjusting nut (see
illustration 10.1). On some models, it may be
necessary to remove the centre console
completely for access.
8Loosen a single bolt in each rear wheel.Raise the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands.
9Remove the bolt you loosened in each rear
wheel. Turn the wheel until, using a torch, you
can see the adjuster starwheel through the
bolt hole.
10Turn the adjuster - clockwise to expand
the shoes, anti-clockwise to retract them -
until the brake shoes just contact the brake
drum (see illustration 5.6d). Back off the
brake shoes so the wheel spins freely (three to
four teeth on the adjuster). Note:If the
adjuster starwheel is hard to turn, remove the
wheel and brake disc, lubricate the adjuster
wheel, and try again.
11With the disc fitted, apply the handbrake
three times to stretch and seat the cables,
then slowly pull up on the handbrake lever to
the fifth click. Tighten the cable adjusting nuts
by equal amounts until the rear brake shoes
just touch the brake drum. Verify that both
wheels have the same amount of resistance.
12Release the handbrake, and verify that
both rear wheels rotate freely.
13Tighten the wheel bolts to the torque
listed in Chapter 1 Specifications.
12 Handbrake assembly-
check, removal and refitting
2
Warning: The handbrake linings
on rear disc brake models may
be manufactured of asbestos-
based material. Refer to the
warning at the start of Section 6. When
servicing these components, do not create
dust by grinding or sanding the linings.
1The handbrake system should be checked
regularly. With the vehicle parked on a hill,
apply the handbrake, select neutral, and
check that the handbrake alone will hold the
vehicle when the footbrake is released (be
sure to stay in the vehicle during this check).
However, every 2 years (or whenever a fault is
suspected), the assembly itself should be
inspected.
2With the vehicle raised and supported onaxle stands, remove the rear wheels.
3On rear brake drum models, refer to
Chapter 1; checking the thickness of the
brake shoes is a routine maintenance
procedure.
4On rear disc brake models, remove the rear
discs as outlined in Section 5. Support the
caliper assemblies with a coat hanger or
heavy wire; do not disconnect the brake line
from the caliper.
5With the disc removed, the handbrake
components are visible, and can be inspected
for wear and damage. The linings should last
the life of the vehicle. However, they can wear
down if the handbrake system has been
improperly adjusted, or if the handbrake is
regularly used to stop the vehicle. There is no
minimum thickness specification for the
handbrake shoes, but as a rule of thumb, if
the shoe material is less than 1.5 mm thick,
you should renew them. Also check the
springs and adjuster mechanism and inspect
the drum for deep scratches and other
damage.
Removal and refitting
Note:The following procedure applies only to
models with rear disc brakes. The handbrake
system on models with rear drum brakes is an
integral part of the rear brake assembly (see
Section 6).
6Loosen the rear wheel bolts, raise the rear
of the vehicle and place it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Remove the
brake discs (see Section 5). Work on only one
side at a time, so you can use the other side
as a reference during reassembly, and to
avoid mixing up parts.
7Remove the shoe return and hold-down
springs (see illustrations).
8Remove the shoes (see illustration).
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. When
you’re done, the actuator should be properly
seated between the two shoes as shown (see
illustration).
10After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two wheel
bolts, turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.6d)
and expand the shoes until the disc locks,
9•12 Braking system
12.7b Remove the upper shoe
return spring12.7a Remove the lower shoe return
spring (diagonal cutting pliers are being
used here because they grip the spring
well, but care must be taken not to cut or
nick the spring)